I think you're probably looking for US data and I don't have W05 installed, my last update is from end of January when I had the car in for service and I'm staying home for a while ...
But perhaps my data (EU) can be of some help

ECM MM10JAHW232-00-P141WA0E-0000
TCM 10344202761-20-GK1101ODBFW-0003
DTCM M0045027.02-21-M0110265-0501

 

I finally got RACE mode working in my car, first posted in one of the race mode threads.
While looking at proxy settings in MES I see that TPMS has "logic" 0, 1, 2 ... (I think up to 7). Does anybody have a clue regarding what these might mean? I am hoping to find a setting that targets a lower inflation pressure range than logic 0. Logic 0 appears to light tire low when PSI <= 30 and extinguish pressure low when PSI >= 37. This is used on all 4 tires, even though the front tire recommended inflation pressure is 35PSI.

 

I re-installed my EC P2 tune for Race mod and observed that with Race mod set to "type 2" I now get full engine power in A mode. I need to get in more miles to be certain that the A mode shifting scheme is still in place and that fuel economy is decent.

Since someone asked for the appearance of a Q4 with square setup of Tecnicos, I took pictures today. To be clear these are 19x8.5s with 245 35R19 Michelin PS A/S 3+. Apparently I failed photography school...

 

You said you got those front and back decals from some dude in sacramento, correct? I'm definitely gonna be getting those and getting them installed when I get my giulia. Cheaper than getting sideskirts that don't fit well

 

That means the engine map is now using N for all 3 modes... a known issue.
Is type 2 the one that displays the yellow Race screen or the one that just shows “ESC off” ?

 

Type 2 has the yellow Race screen.
Folks were reporting that it only affected the pedal map, but it seems to be more than that.
I thought A mode altered valve and ignition (and injection?) timing for fuel economy but I could be wrong. I never understood the max power reduction in A; if I floor it I want full power. I can understand slower responses due to the need to change gears and rev the engine, but that is starting from reduced throttle, but full power should simply be full power.

I know D tends to get markedly worse fuel economy than A even for highway cruising, but that may have more to do with transmission behavior. I have never driven long distances in N.

With the EC Phase 2 RACE tune, I get a pretty aggressive response to pushing the pedal, even in A. I believe that EC puts the same map in N and D.

Anyway, so far it seems good to me.

 

Or maybe disconnect the battery for a short time to reset the process.

 

Sounds great Lockem...I did the factory order for MY19 Q4 TI as I wanted to avoid the duel sunroof (added weight and I felt would be problematic down the road. Also went with leather but not the leather package as I thought that option was overpriced...

 

OK, here is a litany of issues that have plagued my car of recent. I believe that these are independent issues and that each one is small, but possibly very difficult to locate the culprit:

1) The oil in my rear LSD differential is a little low (no evidence of any leakage) and BLACK. Is this normal for a car with 57000 miles? I have no idea if normal clutch wear would cause such a discoloration or even what the oil is supposed to look like (moly based?). I guess I will hit up my local Dodge Mopar store for a refill with the right oil and additive if required.

2) The suspension makes harsh, loud screeching noises once in a long time when I roll over uneven surfaces (i.e. my dirt driveway). This started very recently. I found that all of the bolts on my center (steel) cross member are barely more than snug tight. The bolts were certainly not tight enough to prevent the cross member from moving under load. I torqued them down but still got one loud screech afterwards. Other rear suspension bolts appear to be good and tight. I hope to check the front next weekend.

3) The handling has gone "wonky". Other than the loose center cross member I do not see anything wrong. I am hoping this is just an alignment issue (toe-in off?). Tire wear is normal. I have inspected, but do not see any problem suspension bushings.

4) My electrical glitches defy correction so far. I have yet to find anything definitively wrong or make any change that helps. Private CANBUS errors between the front camera and the RADAR unit should be telling me something. There is a connector on a cable on the lower left side of the transmission. Is this supposed to have a water proofing cover on the front side? My car does not appear to have a cover on the front, such that the internal pins appear to be exposed to the environment. I'll try to take a picture the next time I have the front lifted up. Maybe someone else could take a picture of what their connector looks like? I am a little concerned about damage to the harness that comes out of the windshield pod. It runs flat against the windshield and I have had the windshield replaced. The tool used to remove the old windshield has plenty of potential to damage such a harness. Has anybody had problems with the harness after windshield replacement? The harness is buried between the windshield/roof and headliner, making it very difficult to inspect. FWIW: these glitches happen so infrequently that I think it is unlikely that a dealer is going to be very helpful diagnosing the fault.

5) I seem to have a small oil leak somewhere up front. A thin sticky amber colored film forms on the bottom of the torque converter housing.

6) My front Fiamenghi exhaust clamp was positioned incorrectly when it was installed. Even with 10+mm clearance to the clamp-bolt end and the heat shield above, the clamp bolt hit the heat shield and left an indentation. Beware that the exhaust pipe moves around quite a bit. No penetration of the heat shield and plenty of room to reposition the clamp, so no harm done.

On a related point, I finally got the right tool and adjusted my exhaust tips to be even and "tidy". Apparently I adjusted them too far in (forward) though, since I now have some drone that was not there before. I suspect that the tips need to protrude at least 1/2 inch past the rear of the car to get the full drone reduction benefit. I'll try to do a before and after picture and study when I find time to re-adjust them.

 

On point 4 above, the picture of said connector does not look right to me. Can someone post a picture of their connector? I am suspicious that when the misfire recall inspection was done a weather proofing cover was taken off of this connector and either not re-installed or not installed properly (i.e. it fell off) and now some of those exposed pins are corroded causing some of my glitches. This is the front of the connector looking up, left side of the transmission. The black on the far left of the image is the transmission pan, the gray on the right is the driver's side floor underside. You can see a blurry image of the parking pawl emergency release mechanism at the lower left of the image.

On points 2-3, further chasing around the suspension of the car revealed 3 out of 4 of the bottom shock tower bolts were not torqued down as hard as I expect. The cross brace bolts were LOOSE and the chipping of the paint on the shock tower suggests that this is the source of my noise. Some while ago I noticed the chipping (there was less at the time) and asked Dawydiak SF to check the torque. They said "all good" but I suspect that they didn't check it at all. You need a 13mm open end wrench to get on the outer bolts. I suggest that going around a Giulia once in a while with a wrench (actually a bunch of wrenches 'cause it seems that Alfa did not use the same size fastener more than twice) to make certain that nothing is going to fall off is a good plan.

 

Same on my car.

 

Confirmed by Steven's Creek Alfa mechanic as well. This appears to be a design error as this is a non-weather resistant connector that is highly exposed to the weather. I opened and closed the connector (old school way to scrape corrosion off of electrical connectors), noticed a thin film of dirt inside the connector (wiped as much away as I could) and have now driven 450 miles without a transmission glitch (it was averaging 20-30 miles/glitch before). Other glitches persist <sigh>.

Tightening the suspension corrected most of the wonky handling. I will get an alignment when I get my nearly worn out tires replaced, probably next week.

On to the next fiasco: by my mistake I got some contamination in my high temp coolant (bad fill water, very long story). OK it is only a tiny amount of contamination, I guess I should drain and refill, probably twice. Let engine cool off, remove front belly pan, remove reservoir cap, open drain valve (turn 90 degrees). NOTHING comes out, not even a drip. My 2000 Dodge RAM has the same fault! To change fluid in the RAM I have to pull the radiator, which is not too horrible a task on the truck. With the radiator out of the truck I can even see that the drain tube dead ends rather than extending to the valve stem. Has anyone else tried to drain a Giulia radiator? Am I missing something here?

It seems that some Audis have twist AND PULL radiator petcocks. Might that be the case for Giulia?

Pulling the radiator from Giulia appears to require quite a bit of disassembly and the air purge required after that is not simple. I may hire APE or the dealer for said task.

I also noticed that the service manual has at least 2 errors relative to this procedure: 1) the lower left radiator bracket must be removed to gain access to the drain valve and 2) at least on my MY2018 Q4 the heater system bleed valve is not even close to the location shown in the service manual. The service manual shows the bleeder valve easy to access centered behind the engine. In my car it is tucked underneath the cowl behind the turbo charger--quite difficult to access.

 

Update on the screeching noise: The left rear passenger door had something (it apparently fell out when I opened the door) caught in the upper rear part of the door frame. I found this while washing the car (first wash since the screeching started). A small but deep dig in the body side of the door frame (clean through the paint, exposing shiny steel beneath) is the only evidence of this issue that I can find. I cannot be 100% certain that this is the source of the horrible noise, but I haven't heard the noise since.

Can anybody provide some guidance regarding how to open the radiator petcock?

 

Here are the before and after pics for my latest adjustments to the exhaust tips. With the tips extended the drone is reduced modestly.
BEFORE:

AFTER (about 3/4" farther out, which is as far as possible with these tips):

 

Hmmm, the screeching noise is still not gone. I guess I should try replacing the antisway bar links next.

I drained the rear differential oil and re-filled with Ravenol that complies with the Fiat spec. The old oil was very stinky, as hypoid gear oil usually is. The Ravenol has very little odor. The old oil was black and thick, like used diesel motor oil. The new oil seemed kind of thin for 75W-85 and is almost water clear in color. There was no obvious evidence of metallic contamination; is this discoloration "normal" for an LSD differential? I was a little surprised to find that the diff does not have a magnetic oil plug. I poked a magnetic parts finder through the drain hole, but it picked up nothing. The diff seemed to be making noise that I had not noticed before after the oil change.

 

Here is the latest update on my car and important information for folks with the LSD rear differential:

At 62000 miles I had my rear LSD replaced with a barely used unit from a Q2 wreck (less than 3000 miles on the ODO of the wreck, which was driven straight into a pole hard enough to crack the front cover of the engine--hopefully that impact did not telegraph all the way back to the rear diff). This was done because I could hear a whine from the diff under certain loading conditions AND the oil in the unit was pitch black. I have not noticed the whine from the new unit. I was told that the black oil is "normal".

My mechanic reports that the rear differential can be removed by taking only the right side hub loose, unlike what is stated in the service manual.

This was not a warranty repair, affording the opportunity to do a "post mortem" tear down of my old differential. Many important observations:

1) Nothing was obviously in poor condition.
2) The ring and pinion gear teeth had light scoring. It was not deep enough to catch a fingernail on, but any scoring is abnormal and symptomatic of lubrication problems (contamination or inadequate lubricity).
3) The differential internals appear to be rather light duty for the amount of power the car produces, with small-ish spider gears, spider spindles, clutches and clutch plates. There are only 2 friction disks per side. I strongly suspect that the differential is the limiting factor for max engine torque in 1st gear.
4) The friction material on the friction disks is maybe 0.02" thick! Half of that was worn away in my old differential. If black oil from wear on the friction disks is normal, the life expectancy of the clutches is not good. The friction material appears to be very hard.
5) The unit uses ball bearings (not tapered roller bearings). The balls in my diff rolled smoothly, but had a matte appearance rather than the expected bright-polish finish. The races were shiny as expected.
6) The fresh oil that I put in the unit less than 2000 miles prior was already black.
7) I find it hard to believe that the LSD weighs 30-35 pounds more than the non-LSD. It looked like maybe 5 pounds of LSD specific parts.

Conclusion, it seems likely that hard friction material is contaminating the oil and injuring the bearing balls and gear teeth as well as accelerating the rate of wear on the friction disks. Thus, change the oil in this diff frequently, perhaps with every engine oil change or every other engine oil change. At least it only holds 1 quart and is easy to change. IIRC the manual simply says to change the oil "as needed".

I am hoping to see my highway fuel economy improve to be closer to what other people report, but I need more miles to be certain. However, my highway fuel economy has been worse than expected since the car was new.

 

Maybe this one has been discussed before but as part of checking the alignment after the suspension work, I discovered that the Q4 caster spec differs from the RWD caster spec by about 0.5 degrees. Is that normal for other cars?

 

Interesting, not sure about that. I do know there a differences with Q4/RWD regarding suspension parts, the turning radius on the Q4 is horrid, although AR manual says they are identical.

 

Sport vs. non-Sport? Shrugs....

 

The service manual agrees with my alignment shop:

The caster on my Q4 is 5.6 on one side and about 5.4 or 5.5 on the other side.
I believe that more caster increases the force on the steering that tends to return the wheels to aim straight forward. I have no idea why one would want more caster for RWD over AWD.

 

would anybody be able to help me out with the install process of the tune because during the rev procedure to eliminate the flashing CEL lights , mine just comes to a complete still light , locking rpm to 4500 and eventually the ECU file doesn’t completely upload leaving me with all the lights and warnings going off. I did this step when my engine was already warmed to 70° so i didn’t get any of the prompts to turn engine on and perform rev procedure but proceeded to do so anyways to get rid of flashing CEL but have been unsuccessful. the folks from euro compulsion are gone for the weekend so i’m kinda stuck

 

Have you tried asking Eurocompulsion?

FWIW: I recently started getting the dreaded P1CEA error code. However, this was not due to the Venturi vacuum fault, but instead one of the hoses on my V2 intake came loose. I had put a cable tie on the hose; perhaps a bad idea?

Also, my windshield is cracked again and they are on backorder again <sigh>. My camera fault has progressed from intermittent to constant. Maybe it can be isolated now? I am putting it off until the windshield removal, since the harness to the camera is easily accessible once the windshield is removed.

 

OK, took the car to Stevens Creek Alfa-Maserati to get the windshield replaced, was treated very nicely and have a beautiful new windshield with properly calibrated camera now. Since my windshield is often covered with bug splatter I did not fully appreciate the myriad of tiny rock chips that most likely happened during the wind/fire storm of Nov 2020.

Mountain View Fire - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Anyway, while they had the car I asked them to have a look at my wonky stored errors caused by intermittent CANBUS communications faults. The tech essentially said "don't worry, they all do that" ?! Even the popup "service shocks" error he says is simply a symptom of my rough dirt driveway forcing the adaptive shock system out of the range that it was designed to cope with (so no Giulia rally car, I guess).

On my second brake job now. I temporarily have the OEM rotors back on, freshly turned. Ceika has slots only Giulia rotors on backorder and my Ceika rotors were thoroughly cooked. I got EBC yellow stuff pads more out of convenience than any expectation of performance. When first installed they vibrated noticeably, but that calmed down after 200 miles or so. I have asked Steven's Creek to flush the brake fluid, which they will do tomorrow for a fairly reasonable price.

Stevens Creek also provided me with a 2021 base model Giulia loaner. I notice a lot of small-ish differences to my 2018 Ti-Sport Q4:

The throw of the accelerator pedal is much shorter, giving the impression of improved responsiveness when in fact it is like having a pedalpro or similar.
I cannot detect a downshift detent on the accelerator pedal. Maybe my foot is numb, I dunno.
Changes to the steering wheel give a cheap-er appearance. Still nice, just not as nice. Maybe TI-sport versus base differences rather than 2018 versus 2021?
The new shifter seems oddly fiddly to use.
The hesitation to move from a standing start seems to be reduced, a major plus.
The jerky stop issue appears to be reduced relative to my car.
17" OEM Pirelli tires sure are a lot quieter than my 19" Michelin A/S 3+.
The rubber dashboard is not exactly the lap of luxury.
The plastic exterior part seams are "perfect", a significant improvement over my car and other MY2018 Giulia that I have seen.
The paint quality remains excellent, especially in a side-by-side comparison to a Tesla.

The instrument panel display shows a lot more information now. I would have to drive a lot more to decide if it is an improvement.

Mono-stable DNA switch is not an improvement.


Relocated park switch is not an improvement.

 

Mono-stable DNA switch is not an improvement.

Yup, I preferred the switch on my 2018. Also agree about the steering wheel, they went the wrong way on that as well.

 

I posted this in the weather thread, but this thread is more appropriate. I previously reported "corrosion" inside my right headlamp. I am not sure if this is corrosion or something growing on the reflector adhesive. Any thoughts? It seems to be slowly getting worse, but I do not think I can reasonably do anything about it. The white speckles at the bottom of the picture are inside the headlight. There is no obvious moisture inside the headlight.

Also, got my new Ceika light weight rotors. I think I will wait for winter to be over before installing them. They are a cast iron composition that has good performance for braking (high specific heat, high friction, high strength) but not so good for corrosion resistance. I may end up changing rotors and wheels together in the future.

 

They might know here what's going on with your headlight:

Automotive

www.candlepowerforums.com

Cool thanks for sharing you ordered from Ceika. I see what look like nice custom suspension products for a lot of money and wonder if they are any good.

Sent from my REVVL V+ 5G using Tapatalk

 

OK, so Sunday night I make my usual 260 mile commute, a little bit early in order to avoid the worst of the incoming storm. About half way back I get a RED CEL on the instrument panel "check oil level". The car continues to run properly and made it to my destination.

Today I bought some appropriate oil and added 8 ounces. No change in the reading. I also observed that there is no hint of oil in the coolant nor any dripping leaks (my rear main seal seems to have a tiny leak, but not bad enough to drip).

I stop by Steven's Creek Alfa and Hannah tells me that the oil level check port on the front of the engine cannot be used to check the engine oil level (?!) so that a $407 oil change is the only way to check the oil level. I indicate a hard pass on the overpriced oil change ($200-250 I would tolerate, but $407 is nuts). Maybe they are including $150 for a loaner for 1 day that I do not need? Anyway, I am not overly keen about them touching my not quite stock Giulia.

I suspect that the idiotic oil level sensor is at fault. Anybody know a way to check? In the meantime my car is at one side of the state and my oil change stuff at the other and now buried in snow. Hopefully I can drive over this weekend in my wife's Subaru and get the oil, filter and tools rather than buy more.

This car desperately needs a dip stick.

 

$407 for a 2.0 oil change??? I think I would have laughed right in her face.... and why can the oil check port not be used to check the oil?
Admittedly I have never tried to use it, but that seems rather silly

 

An Alfa tech in the forums reported that the Alfa tool for the oil level measurement port is too snug in the hole, making getting a reading difficult. He modified something (notches on an allen key?) in order to be able to make measurements reasonably easily. Why? Well that !@#$ing oil level sensor apparently breaks down fairly frequently and this is the most efficient way to confirm the diagnosis. We really need a parts mfg to belly up and come up with a real dip stick for the 2.0. Such effort probably would fit the Jeep engine, greatly enhancing sales potential.

The downside with the oil check port on the front of the engine is that it is necessary to remove the accessory belt cover in order to get at it. Not bad with a garage full of tools; not so good for my situation.

My car reads 600 miles to the next oil change so changing the oil slightly prematurely will not be a total waste.

FWIW: another forum member reported that Steven's Creek Alfa charges $750 for a QV oil change (not for the whole 10k service); the invoice apparently will show $50/quart for the oil!

At least my wife has committed to the drive this weekend, so that I can retrieve stands, jacks, oil, and filter. With 2-5 feet of fresh snow on the ground now this may turn into an adventure.

Also FWIW: my 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins suddenly started indicating 0 oil pressure. Apparently there is a TSB and a revised sensor. Unfortunately my engine has the high pressure fuel injector line in the way of disconnecting the wiring to the sensor. Those lines are prone to leaking after R&R. How can that truck engine bay have so much room around everything, but no clearance where I need it?

Rant turned down but not off.

 

Yah but why did Dodge decide to run every hose and line through the middle of the 1' of space to either side of the engine? Trying to make working on the engine and/or adding accessories impossible?

Anyway, I would whip out a $100 bill for a real dip stick so fast I would get rope burn from my pants. It should be just a curved tube, mounting bracket, lower fitting and a thin strip of metal with fill level marks on it, a handle and a cap. One might be able to utilize the stick from some other engine by finding a long one and cutting it to length. Although nice, it does not need to be all the way at the top of the engine. A bracket over the top or under the bottom of the alternator might work and be reasonably reachable.

 

Add another 8 ounces...

Sent from my REVVL V+ 5G using Tapatalk

 

I am always concerned about overfilling. Isn't the difference between E and F 16 ounces? (1/2 quart?)

I usually fill with 5 liters, a little less than the max fill. That puts the readout dead center--where I like it.

I just hope my engine is not burning oil. I haven't heard any reports of such in the forums though.

 

I've pulled up the online manual, (for '17 model year). There appear to be two different symbols, one for low oil level, and another specifically for a failed oil level sensor. I reread your posts and it's unclear which specific CEL(s) displayed? Looks like there's one for the sensor failing which is yellow. The one for low oil level is red. (I personally prioritize red warnings over yellow).