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Discussion starter · #261 ·
i did but they aren’t available for the weekend via email and i’m not sure if all the flashing lights and check engine light going off over the weekend would be a good idea.
IMO, not a good idea to drive the car in that condition. Fuel and/or ignition timing could be wrong.
 
Discussion starter · #262 ·
OK, took the car to Stevens Creek Alfa-Maserati to get the windshield replaced, was treated very nicely and have a beautiful new windshield with properly calibrated camera now. Since my windshield is often covered with bug splatter I did not fully appreciate the myriad of tiny rock chips that most likely happened during the wind/fire storm of Nov 2020.

Anyway, while they had the car I asked them to have a look at my wonky stored errors caused by intermittent CANBUS communications faults. The tech essentially said "don't worry, they all do that" ?! Even the popup "service shocks" error he says is simply a symptom of my rough dirt driveway forcing the adaptive shock system out of the range that it was designed to cope with (so no Giulia rally car, I guess).

On my second brake job now. I temporarily have the OEM rotors back on, freshly turned. Ceika has slots only Giulia rotors on backorder and my Ceika rotors were thoroughly cooked. I got EBC yellow stuff pads more out of convenience than any expectation of performance. When first installed they vibrated noticeably, but that calmed down after 200 miles or so. I have asked Steven's Creek to flush the brake fluid, which they will do tomorrow for a fairly reasonable price.

Stevens Creek also provided me with a 2021 base model Giulia loaner. I notice a lot of small-ish differences to my 2018 Ti-Sport Q4:

The throw of the accelerator pedal is much shorter, giving the impression of improved responsiveness when in fact it is like having a pedalpro or similar.
I cannot detect a downshift detent on the accelerator pedal. Maybe my foot is numb, I dunno.
Changes to the steering wheel give a cheap-er appearance. Still nice, just not as nice. Maybe TI-sport versus base differences rather than 2018 versus 2021?
The new shifter seems oddly fiddly to use.
The hesitation to move from a standing start seems to be reduced, a major plus.
The jerky stop issue appears to be reduced relative to my car.
17" OEM Pirelli tires sure are a lot quieter than my 19" Michelin A/S 3+.
The rubber dashboard is not exactly the lap of luxury.
The plastic exterior part seams are "perfect", a significant improvement over my car and other MY2018 Giulia that I have seen.
The paint quality remains excellent, especially in a side-by-side comparison to a Tesla.

The instrument panel display shows a lot more information now. I would have to drive a lot more to decide if it is an improvement.

Mono-stable DNA switch is not an improvement.


Relocated park switch is not an improvement.
 
Discussion starter · #264 ·
I posted this in the weather thread, but this thread is more appropriate. I previously reported "corrosion" inside my right headlamp. I am not sure if this is corrosion or something growing on the reflector adhesive. Any thoughts? It seems to be slowly getting worse, but I do not think I can reasonably do anything about it. The white speckles at the bottom of the picture are inside the headlight. There is no obvious moisture inside the headlight.

Image


Also, got my new Ceika light weight rotors. I think I will wait for winter to be over before installing them. They are a cast iron composition that has good performance for braking (high specific heat, high friction, high strength) but not so good for corrosion resistance. I may end up changing rotors and wheels together in the future.
 
They might know here what's going on with your headlight:


Cool thanks for sharing you ordered from Ceika. I see what look like nice custom suspension products for a lot of money and wonder if they are any good.

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Discussion starter · #266 ·
OK, so Sunday night I make my usual 260 mile commute, a little bit early in order to avoid the worst of the incoming storm. About half way back I get a RED CEL on the instrument panel "check oil level". The car continues to run properly and made it to my destination.

Today I bought some appropriate oil and added 8 ounces. No change in the reading. I also observed that there is no hint of oil in the coolant nor any dripping leaks (my rear main seal seems to have a tiny leak, but not bad enough to drip).

I stop by Steven's Creek Alfa and Hannah tells me that the oil level check port on the front of the engine cannot be used to check the engine oil level (?!) so that a $407 oil change is the only way to check the oil level. I indicate a hard pass on the overpriced oil change ($200-250 I would tolerate, but $407 is nuts). Maybe they are including $150 for a loaner for 1 day that I do not need? Anyway, I am not overly keen about them touching my not quite stock Giulia.

I suspect that the idiotic oil level sensor is at fault. Anybody know a way to check? In the meantime my car is at one side of the state and my oil change stuff at the other and now buried in snow. Hopefully I can drive over this weekend in my wife's Subaru and get the oil, filter and tools rather than buy more.

This car desperately needs a dip stick.
 
$407 for a 2.0 oil change??? I think I would have laughed right in her face.... and why can the oil check port not be used to check the oil?
Admittedly I have never tried to use it, but that seems rather silly
 
Discussion starter · #268 ·
$407 for a 2.0 oil change??? I think I would have laughed right in her face.... and why can the oil check port not be used to check the oil?
Admittedly I have never tried to use it, but that seems rather silly
An Alfa tech in the forums reported that the Alfa tool for the oil level measurement port is too snug in the hole, making getting a reading difficult. He modified something (notches on an allen key?) in order to be able to make measurements reasonably easily. Why? Well that !@#$ing oil level sensor apparently breaks down fairly frequently and this is the most efficient way to confirm the diagnosis. We really need a parts mfg to belly up and come up with a real dip stick for the 2.0. Such effort probably would fit the Jeep engine, greatly enhancing sales potential.

The downside with the oil check port on the front of the engine is that it is necessary to remove the accessory belt cover in order to get at it. Not bad with a garage full of tools; not so good for my situation.

My car reads 600 miles to the next oil change so changing the oil slightly prematurely will not be a total waste.

FWIW: another forum member reported that Steven's Creek Alfa charges $750 for a QV oil change (not for the whole 10k service); the invoice apparently will show $50/quart for the oil!

At least my wife has committed to the drive this weekend, so that I can retrieve stands, jacks, oil, and filter. With 2-5 feet of fresh snow on the ground now this may turn into an adventure.

Also FWIW: my 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins suddenly started indicating 0 oil pressure. Apparently there is a TSB and a revised sensor. Unfortunately my engine has the high pressure fuel injector line in the way of disconnecting the wiring to the sensor. Those lines are prone to leaking after R&R. How can that truck engine bay have so much room around everything, but no clearance where I need it?

Rant turned down but not off.
 
Also FWIW: my 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins suddenly started indicating 0 oil pressure. Apparently there is a TSB and a revised sensor. Unfortunately my engine has the high pressure fuel injector line in the way of disconnecting the wiring to the sensor. Those lines are prone to leaking after R&R. How can that truck engine bay have so much room around everything, but no clearance where I need it?
dont even get me started on Diesel trucks..Im up to my ass in them for the past 3 weeks.... both Cummins and VMs....
and yes, the fuel lines are 1 time use...but you wouldn't be the only person who ever reinstalled them.
if you decide to go that route...lube the threads with fuel ,make them nice and tight and you should be fine.
 
Discussion starter · #270 ·
Yah but why did Dodge decide to run every hose and line through the middle of the 1' of space to either side of the engine? Trying to make working on the engine and/or adding accessories impossible?

Anyway, I would whip out a $100 bill for a real dip stick so fast I would get rope burn from my pants. It should be just a curved tube, mounting bracket, lower fitting and a thin strip of metal with fill level marks on it, a handle and a cap. One might be able to utilize the stick from some other engine by finding a long one and cutting it to length. Although nice, it does not need to be all the way at the top of the engine. A bracket over the top or under the bottom of the alternator might work and be reasonably reachable.
 
Discussion starter · #272 ·
Add another 8 ounces...

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I am always concerned about overfilling. Isn't the difference between E and F 16 ounces? (1/2 quart?)

I usually fill with 5 liters, a little less than the max fill. That puts the readout dead center--where I like it.

I just hope my engine is not burning oil. I haven't heard any reports of such in the forums though.
 
I've pulled up the online manual, (for '17 model year). There appear to be two different symbols, one for low oil level, and another specifically for a failed oil level sensor. I reread your posts and it's unclear which specific CEL(s) displayed? Looks like there's one for the sensor failing which is yellow. The one for low oil level is red. (I personally prioritize red warnings over yellow).
 

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Discussion starter · #275 ·
I suspect that sensor fail only happens if the wiring to/in the sensor fails such that it is open or short circuit. If the sensor is not working right (maybe a bladder inside is leaking?) it could report the wrong oil fill. I guess I will find out when I drain and measure how much oil is in the engine. Maybe I should hook up MES and see what it says first.

The engine could use oil without an external leak or oil in the coolant by leakage in the turbo, head gasket or rings. Maybe a stuck PCV valve could allow the intake to suck oil out of the crankcase.
 
If your 5 L gets you dead center on the meter, and 5 notches (I'm bad at counting) is 250 mL each, you still have at least 2 notches worth 500 mL, or 17.6 oz. You could add the 16 oz I suggest and still be confidently within spec, even without say 4400 mi of driving. (I thought I remember you change every 5k mi)?

It's what I would do since there's no sensor failure notice, but it's your car. Best of luck as I know your situation isn't ideal to be dealing with this.

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Discussion starter · #278 ·
It's been a while. Everything okay?

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Things move slowly when your tools are on one side of the state and the car and dealer are on the other side.
If I counted correctly I drained 4.65 liters from the engine, indicating a sensor fault. I have a new sensor on order. However there is a non-trivial chance that I counted wrong, so I will be checking the PCV pipes and turbo pipe for oil. Also, I will do a visual check on the exhaust.
 
Things move slowly when your tools are on one side of the state and the car and dealer are on the other side.
If I counted correctly I drained 4.65 liters from the engine, indicating a sensor fault. I have a new sensor on order. However there is a non-trivial chance that I counted wrong, so I will be checking the PCV pipes and turbo pipe for oil. Also, I will do a visual check on the exhaust.
Woah,

Did you complete the oil change and oil level displayed is incorrect per experience?

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Discussion starter · #280 ·
Woah,

Did you complete the oil change and oil level displayed is incorrect per experience?

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Because the oil has to be drained to replace the sensor I did not refill.
 
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