I am considering replacing my relays since I have experienced some start/stop issues and sluggish acceleration at times. There are several threads about these issues but I don't think they explain what all the relays are for.

What I have gathered (please point out any errors):
The important relays are located on a mounted wire harness containing 3 banks behind the passenger headlight:

passenger wheel well ------- |(10a)[R1][R2]| ------- |(20a)[R3][R4]| -------- |(20a)[R5][R6]| -------- radiator

R6 = starter relay (causes start/stop and general non-start issues)
R3 = intercooler water pump relay (causes high post intercooler temps, possibly burning o-rings)

*note (some report the two 20a fuse banks are switched in some cars. The pump relay is on the bank with white/violet cables?)
number designations R1 etc. are just for my labeling purposes of relays.

R5 and R6 are reachable from the top. The others may require access through the removable panel in the wheel well or removing part of the wheel well if you don't have the access panel.

Does anyone know what the other 4 relays in this location are for? I am wondering if I should just replace them all with the new relay 06106094AA to prevent damage or if it is wasteful at $40 each until something happens. And do we know for sure that the new relay is actually better and meant for all cases or just a more expensive supplier? (for reference, original $8 relay that seems to fail is 6106093AA)

I believe the heated seats and defrosters use the same relays, but located in the trunk. Have we seen a lot of those fail, or are the starter and pump relays just being stressed more? I don't see any harm in letting the heated seats and defroster relays fail before replacing.

thanks to @Beta Romeo and others in threads like this one for enlightening us:

Post intercooler temps high (FIXED)

spoiler : Post #33 by beta was right and that fixed my issue Hey guys I have a 17 q4 and once in a while I’ve noticed that my post intercooler temps getting hotter than usual. I use the squadra dongle to see them and confirmed yesterday with MES that they are high. Or the sensor is reading...

www.giuliaforums.com

Maybe this will help a bit more, some of the descriptors are a little vague:

If you need further specifics on any circuit let me know.

 

Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for.
If I understand correctly, this is what they do from left to right:

R1C - Horn (not urgent to replace)
R2C - ASD - Auto ShutDown relay (may cause stalling and non-start conditions?)

R1B - Water Pump (will replace for sluggish acceleration from high post intercooler temps)
R2B - Blow by Control (this might be a silent killer important for keeping engine deposits from forming?)

R1A - A/C clutch (may replace if noticing A/C not performing properly)
R2A - starter relay (infamous for start/stop and non-start issues)

Alfa Romeo should really issue a recall for some of these if they know of a high failure rate of this relay. They can cause some really dangerous situations if failing at inopportune times.

 

Yes! This last week my car has literary died over (4) times during traffic and I had to try and stay calm while using a code reader to clear the codes to get the engine to start. Very scary, I have a 2017 Giulia Ti that just hit 100k miles. Even took it to the dealership and they couldn't explain it. Parasitic draw on my battery and they gave it a pass

 

@Beta Romeo

Questions:

Is the graphic you posted, and the location of the "string" of relays, the same for 2.0 Liter Stelvio or?

Does the 2.0 Liter Stelvio experience the same problems as the Giulia with this "string" of relays or?

Is the Intercooler Water Pump Relay (06106094AA ) still the latest revision since 2021 or?

Also a BIG thumbs up! to @maxpower - thanks for putting time into accumulating this info into one, and getting it out to us in easy to digest post -

 

Just today there is a post by Brad86, (post #25) on the alfabb about the starter relay problem. Link below. Brad has images showing how you can see and remove the plastic cover that covers the, upper most inboard most forward most pair of relays, from under the hood, just by reaching down and in. He states that the inner most relay is the one that failed his starter to activate. If this is true, then the diagram that @Beta Romeo shared in post #2 is perhaps confusing. Brad also shared (via alfalisa62) that the NAPA Echlin AR6034 (listed for Lexus, $22.) will work. @maxpower , if you do go in there and explore this area closely, please snap and post some images and chart which relay does what. Especially the one for the aux coolant pump that effects the intake air heat exchanger. Thanks x2

Starter Solenoid Relay Location

My 2017 Giulia starter failed to energize the other day. No DIC (driver information message). no DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes), no nothing to explain why the engine would not turn over. Knowing that there has been a history of starter relay failures, I looked for and found the culprit relay...

www.alfabb.com

 

R2A is the most inboard.... The diagram is as if you are looking from the front of the car. Also, the water pump relay is labeled like it's only applicable to the diesel 2.2, for your confusion and delight.

 

^^Ah, now I understand the perspective. Also, a relay for "Blow By Control"? Is this for a crankcase ventilation valve, or heater?

 

What is "blow by control"?

 

It's the label for R2B in your first graphic.

 

I got around to opening it up and it is a little more involved than I thought but not bad. Didn't buy my relays yet but wanted to see what would be involved first. I had to remove the wheel well since mine only has a panel for the headlight. I also took off the wheel but maybe it is possible to remove the fender liner without doing that, just harder to access all the screws.

First, here is a photo of the first loom that is reachable from the top if you have nimble hands. Remove the cap and starter relay is first one on the right. Be careful not to drop the cap as you lift or you will be opening the wheel well anyway to fish it out...

After I put it back in without the cover, it didn't crank the 2nd time I started the car (just lights), so be careful to make sure it is seated well and the cover might help keep it secure.

Here is a photo of the wheel well. You only need to remove the front hard plastic portion (not the rear felt). There are about 10 screws, 2 nuts, and 2 plastic push screws. Partially pry the middle part of push screws with a flat head or something to remove. No need to remove the screws for the small access panel for the headlight.

Here is what you see after it is open 3 relay banks circled yellow. Each seems to be color coded by tape:

Each bank is fixed to the panel with spreading plastic type screws. It's probably easy to break them off if you are not careful. Try lightly clamping them together with plyers or something to allow the bank to come free.

Mine had 2 relays in each bank. Pump relay should be in the middle loom, next to a 20 amp fuse (after removing cover).

You should be able to pop it back into the panel where it was after replacing the cover.

 

Just a hint: Instead of pressing each single bank out of the rail (which I consider ugly), in my 2016 Giulia 200 hp you can also loosen 2 nuts and then take off the whole rail with all three banks on it, then move it slighly downwards (cables still connected). This makes is very easy to take off the caps from each bank. Note: The 2 nuts are easily accessible from the wheel house, an you will see those 2 nuts only after having taken the forward front wheel house out, as described. Hope understandable, not native speaker

 

I did some experimenting If I removed R2C - ASD The car will endlessly crank but not start, if I remove R2A the car will no longer crank.

 

Also I replaced the AC Relay R1A about 3 weeks ago because of a screeching sound that I've been having for over TWO YEARS after I shut the car down as seen here

I can gladly say it hasn't done it since.
Complained to the dealer twice about that problem and they had no idea what it was.
Conclusions, in my opinion ALL of these relays are trash, from cars cranking and not starting, cars that don't even crank, auxiliary pumps that don't work that reduces performance because of high temps and now myself having a problem with a relay sticking on causing the clutch on the AC pump to screech because there's not enough power to fully engage. I've seen others complain of this same sound before on YouTube years ago. Before replacing the relay the only way the sound would go away is when the car goes into a deep sleep. I noticed there's other relays in the trunk for the fuel pump, rear defrost, heated seats. All problems people have had working intermittently in the past and most dealerships failed to diagnose properly.
My goal is to replace all of the 30amp relays in the car with the newer part number, the problem is they go for a crazy $40 a piece, a ridiculous price for a relay.
If somebody knows all of the specifications for the newer relay please tell me so I can search on Digikey or Mousers, that way we can get a dozen for the price of one.

 

Good info, beta2alfa. I had a very similar screech that repeated in about 1 minute intervals when off, but it only happened about once a year, couldn't replicate it so dealer didn't do anything, and I haven't been driving it enough to know if it is still an issue. Others said it was a 3 way coolant valve, but it makes sense it could be a cheap relay stuck in the wrong position when off. Alfa could prevent possibly unnecessary repairs by just recalling these.
But I'm not sure we know which relays are actually good yet. Most of us have the omron ones that say LANCIA FIAT ALFA on them, but the $8 part we consider bad is possibly a different mopar branded relay since it is used in many other chrysler vehicles, and the $40 version that superseded it is yet another one but too new to say if it is actually better quality and won't also fail after a while.

 

Have you tried opening up one of those relays to see what is inside and what might be failing?

In my cursed Audi 4000E the Bosch made fuel pump relay had an analog timer built into it. Transistor, resistors, capacitors, circuit board, all squeezed into that tiny relay case. All hand soldered. All with plenty of cold solder joints. Buy a replacement relay, it works no better than the problem one. Take the relay apart, retouch each joint with a soldering iron and then like magic a reliable relay.

A lot of stuff has changed since 1983, but tiny circuit cards inside of tiny boxes appears to still be "a thing".

PM me if you would rather mail a bad relay or two to me.

 

@beta2alfa , in post #5 there is the NAPA Echlin relay number that supposedly will work. Also, I cross referenced the relay to a Standard Motor Parts number, RY465. Available at ROCKAUTO for $10.81 each. UGH, I just placed an order with them yesterday for brake parts for my 1986 GMC 3500 dump truck. If someone tries the Standard part, please post results.

 

So, if we wanted to replace all of these shitty 30A relays, how many, and where are they located? Are all of the relays in that bank of relays by the passenger wheel liner 30A? I'm inclined to order a gaggle of relays and replace em all like beta2alfa.

 

Alfa Romeo Giulia (2016 - 2018) - fuse box diagram - Auto Genius

Alfa Romeo Giulia (2016 - 2018) - fuse box diagram

www.autogenius.info

Search "relays" ctrl+f

 

I counted 10, none under the hood by cowl or in the passenger footwell.

 

Come to think of it, I wonder how many battery drain issues are the cause of relays that are sticking on?

 

Yesterday something stuck on, I do not know what. I drove to a gas station. The pump refused to read or return my card. I went for a short walk and the pump timed out, so I could pull out my card, start the engine and back up to a different pump. Shut engine off. Loud buzzing emanated from under the hood. Hit stop/stop for accessory mode and buzzing stopped. I suspect can bus errors, but a sticking relay is an alternative possible cause.

Oh, and I think I will start using the near field reader at the pump as a first choice...

 

Wish me luck, in the morning I’m going to attempt to access the charge cooler pump relay under the wing
Minimal tools as on holiday in the south of France ands it’s randomly throwing up errors
Hoping I can access it via the upper flap in the wheel arch without removing the wheel as I don’t have any tools

 

91.5 ohms for both the GM 96484304 and Alfa OMRON 6106093AA Relays, 82 ohms for the updated Mopar 6106094AA Relay.
Contact point on both the Alfa OMRON and GM looks to be about the same size, the Contact point on the Mopar relay is Massive in comparison.

 

91.5 ohms for both the GM and Alfa OMRON Relays 82 ohms for the updated Mopar Relay.
Contact point on both the Alfa OMRON looks to be about the same size, the Contact point on the Mopar relay is Massive in comparison.

When you say,... "updated Mopar Relay." Are you referring to part # 6106094AA?
If not, what is the MOPAR part number, please?

 

Still not as bad as a 1983 Audi 4000E with ~30 A of current routed though a 5A rated connector. Worse yet, using less wire and a simplified harness it was possible to stay within the 5A/connector budget.

Anyway, I am guessing that Alfa designers expected to be able to run ~30A continuous through said 30A rated relay, but the original relay is not up to the task. Would that be a correct summary?

OT but...
If you want to see electrical scary: go to the HW store and buy a 6foot long 15A rated extension cord, then attach a device (like a cat genie automatic liter box) that actually draws 15A and let it rip for 30+ minutes. Make sure your fire insurance is up to date before you try this (better yet, don't try this); I had the plug end of the cord literally melt and start arcing. There is a big difference between "light duty" (or intermittent duty) and continuous duty in electrical current ratings. And yeah, the cat genie instructions clearly said do not use an extension cord. Apparently because extension cord current ratings are B.S.

For reference, the 16 gauge wires in a standard 15A rated extension cord can "safely" carry 15A, but the wire will get very hot. The insulation used to construct said extension cord is not rated for such high temperatures; a disaster trying to happen. There is a reason why 15A house wiring requires 14ga wire with high temperature rated insulation.

 

Thanks so much for this post and the people helping on here. I replaced my battery thinking that would start my car but no. I followed the advice on here and replaced the relay not with the $7.50 relay or the napa one I went to my dealer and got the $40 updated relay which is $65 at my dealer; put it in and we have power and a running car. Cool cars are not very cool if they don't start! Now I just need to figure out which cheaper version I should carry as a spare. It was easy to reach and replace from the engine compartment with the pictures on here.

 

This is why we NEED someone to post the wire colors to the Aux Pump relay. With the colors, we should be able to identify the correct relay. We could also energize the relay (and pump) to listen for it working. Does anyone here have a good-old-fashioned wiring diagram?

 

In one of the many, many relay threads, it was posted the Aux Pump relay wires are white and violet.
I saw a picture somewhere in one of those threads.

 

White and violet may be two of the colors, but as the relays have four pins, (and I'm guessing that some of the other relays may have a white or violet, too) we sure could benefit from more information.

 

Yeah.., I tried to decipher by color but couldn’t see them well without pulling fender liner or when going in from engine compartment you cannot get a visual on loom at all.

 

I ordered a new 0610 6094 AA relay from Benny at alfaonlineparts.com a vendor on this forum. It was $42.49 shipped. I asked him about advertising a group buy (I informed him of the relay issues and the several threads here) for perhaps a lower price, but he was not interested.

How can we help!?

Hi Guys, We are happy to be a sponsor here and hope to contribute as much as we possibly can. So about us! My name is Benny and I represent our brand new online store AlfaOnlineParts.com. We are an official Alfa Romeo dealership located in Westbury, NY and deal in factory OEM parts and...

www.giuliaforums.com

 

A little off topic here but I recall a old hyndai having all the same color loom🥴🤔🤣🤣

 

I have seen wiring harnesses / looms with all the same color, but they had numbers and letters printed along the length. In my experience, wiring in fuse boxes / relay "boxes"; they may share common colored wires with only the trigger, or device connection having a different color. In the case of relays, it would be nice to know which wire is the 12v+ device, the trigger, ground, etc.

 

I'm going to figure that all out. Pull battery negative, and then do continuity tests of the wires going from the relay to the intercooler pump. Wish I could get paid for my time. LOL

 

^^Excellent. Oh, you want paid? How about a tip? Stay in school.

 

"Don't eat yellow snow" would have been more appropriate.