[MikeFish]

So is the consensus to abandon initial suggestion of green and orange wire pairs on connector b?

If so, Bainbridge says connected one + /- pair from connector a while Giuly connected two + / - pairs from connector a.

Is there any difference between wiring up one pair or two from connector a? If only one wire pair from connector a is used, am I correct in assuming that the wiring for the other pair going back to add-on powered sub is just left unattached?

Which speakers do you want to feed your subwoofer? I personally took a feed from the subwoofer speaker output on connector A. The issue with this is that Alfa may have applied a crossover to this output which is lower than the frequency you want to cut the sub off so you could be missing out on some frequencies. I didn't notice any big gaps though as I crossover my sub at about 80 to 100hz.
The alternative option would be to take a feed from the rear door speakers as I would think these are full range but you'd need one from each door otherwise you'd only have a mono sub. Also note rear doors are fed from connector C.
To answer your question about if it matters if you connect one pair or 2 pairs it depends if you are taking the feed from the subwoofer or from a left or right door speaker.

 

[Friscorays]

Based on videos dontfeedthewriters posted I used connector B and attached as following for Kicker HS10:

Orange Stelvio amp wire to Kicker left positive.
Orange and black Stelvio amp wire to Kicker left negative.
Green Stelvio amp wire to Kicker right positive.
Green and black Stelvio amp wire to kicker right negative.

I am about to reassemble everything in the trunk but see that Bainbridge is reporting a potential issue with harness B configuration ("At first I tried connector B wires 4,5 and 15,16 LR & RR, but volume control does not work on those and so the sub played a constant level of bass") and that he opted to hook his amp up to a single speaker on connector a.

donfeedthewriters then stated that he might switch to connector a as well.

Giuly then stated that he wired two speakers from connector a.

As long as I am switching from connector b to connector a, I might as well hook up left and right. Before I go to trouble of doing that though, I'm just trying to get a sense of what people believe is the best option. I can do either. Is there not an agreed upon "correct" configuration as this point?

 

[MikeFish]

If you have the HK option then connecting to connector B will not allow you to control the volume so this won't work without further mods (like telling the ETM module that you don't have the HK etc). For the purpose of just adding a subwoofer connector B is the wrong option.
'Correct' is whatever you feel is best. Some people might think that connecting to the subwoofer speaker wires is the best option but others might feel that they are missing some of the upper bass range.
Some might feel that the rear doors speakers are a better option but others might not like the subwoofer to fade when they fade the speakers towards the front. You will also need a line output converter that has 2 channels or amp with 2 inputs (sounds like you have this already on your Kicker). This involves using connector C.
There is no right answer, it's all on how you want it to work. But both options I listed will work fine for most people.
Personally I connected to the subwoofer output on connector A pins 9 and 20 and was happy with this (I actually made the connection at the subwoofer end rather than at the amplifier as it was easier than taking out the left hand cover).

 

[Giuly]

I would have copied Bainbridge‘s wiring but my speaker level input had left/right on them and I don’t have the manual on that old amp to verify if I can use Mono input but it’s bridge capable for mono output. My fader control is set center so putting in front or rear did not matter to me. What mattered to me was Woofer output from cable A diagram and tried that out with success. I recommend using a T connector to tap to the wires for ease of use and avoid frustration.

 

[Friscorays]

Thank you very much Mike and Giuly. I appreciate your help.

It sounds like I can confidently abandon connector B and switch over to A.

I have a relatively newly released Kicker HS10 amp that supposedly has electronics that negate need for line output converter ( Hideaway HS10 Powered Subwoofer | KICKER® ). I don't know if can use mono input so I'll need to look into that If can use mono input on Kicker HS10, I'll use A 9 and 20 like MikeFish and Bainbridge. If not, I'll use A pins 11, 22 and 7,18 like Giuly.

 

[Giuly]

 

[JWB]

1) it is the violet and violet / black wire back there.

2)- cutting it triggers the speaker out warning. that sucks.

Plan now is to install a sub using a resistor across the terminals to simulate a speaker and go high-low level converter. or, just plug into the sub while it still works and go directly into high level in.

Apologies for the old thread revival.

Will the error still present if the standard violet/violet and black wires are fed into an active/powered LOC and then the new sub/amp powered directly from the battery ?

Aerpro | First Choice

aerpro.com

Or if i replaced the above with this, would it be better? (I think the LC2 would be overkill for my intent, but open to reason.)

Aerpro APHL2A 2-Channel LOC & RCA Line Driver

Aerpro Line Output Converters will convert your existing cars factory head-units high level (speaker output) into a low voltage line level (RCA) output allowing you to add on an aftermarket amplifier to an OEM headunit.

frankiesautoelectrics.com.au

If this is the case, will putting a resistor where the standard wiring meets the LOC wiring work? And will this prevent the Sub volume reducing as the volume increases ?

Thanks in advance.

 

[MikeFish]

Apologies for the old thread revival.

Will the error still present if the standard violet/violet and black wires are fed into an active/powered LOC and then the new sub/amp powered directly from the battery ?

Aerpro | First Choice

aerpro.com

Or if i replaced the above with this, would it be better? (I think the LC2 would be overkill for my intent, but open to reason.)

Aerpro APHL2A 2-Channel LOC & RCA Line Driver

Aerpro Line Output Converters will convert your existing cars factory head-units high level (speaker output) into a low voltage line level (RCA) output allowing you to add on an aftermarket amplifier to an OEM headunit.

frankiesautoelectrics.com.au

If this is the case, will putting a resistor where the standard wiring meets the LOC wiring work? And will this prevent the Sub volume reducing as the volume increases ?

Thanks in advance.

The error is likely to still show with an LOC connected but ultimately it depends on the resistance of the LOC. Some of them now offer an option to mimic the speaker and hence cancel the error code. In my experience you will 98% still get the code.

Yes, adding a resister across the LOC input will work.
Does the sub volume reduce as you turn the volume up? I thought it did but someone else on here thinks otherwise. Eitherway nothing you have proposed will stop this. The only way I am aware of stopping this is with Audiocontrol equipment that has the AccuBass feature.

 

[JWB]

Giulia Veloce Parcel Shelf HK System Sub Upgrade no...

I'll try to keep this brief as it's pretty self explanatory and has yielded notable gains on the Bass front (keeping in mind it's an 8 inch essentally running a free air setup) for my personal music tastes that is very eclectic. Enough punch on the deep bass and sharp enough on the rock kick...

www.giuliaforums.com

My solution that is working a treat

 

[todd92]

I'm tapping the sub wires at the HK sub for high level input to a powered RF sub. Violet is + and violet/black is -, correct?

 

[JeFizz]

I'm tapping the sub wires at the HK sub for high level input to a powered RF sub. Violet is + and violet/black is -, correct?

Doesn't matter. Hook it all up and then swap polarity to see what sounds best in the driver's seat. Bass phase/polarity is always up for experimentation.

 

[Matto357]

Here are pictures of the installation. Takes up very little of the usable space in the trunk. Looks very clean. Amplifier fit nice into compartment in trunk and styrofoam still fits over it.

After hours of playing pretty loud I took out stryofoam and amplifier still felt pretty cool. My concern in that location was over heating. Will have to watch this and decide if I should remove some styrofoam or put a small fan in there.

The ported 10TW1 box did fit and they really wanted me to get that one. It was a little louder. However, it took up more space and sounded boomier.

I actually had this exact same sub/amp setup from my C63 that I installed, fit perfectly and is a great compliment to the factory system.

 

[JohnB]

View attachment 100772
this might be the best spot for this tiny boy.
it does not provide the massage I need if located in the trunk. 😅

Giuly, did you leave the stock HK sub hooked up and in place? If I understand correctly, you just tapped into the wires headed to the sub speaker. Thanks!

 

[Valgar]

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