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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone found any neat solutions to this?

I am happy enough with the mids and highs of the HK system after the dreaded surround mode was turned off, but the bass is pretty pathetic.

In the past I have run all kinds of aftermarket subs and amps etc, but that was when I was younger and not driving a car that I'm precious about and has built in audio etc.

The standard sub is described as:

One Subwoofer of 18x27 cm (180x270 mm) on the parcel shelf

So options are maybe:

1) Replace the sub with another, not sure what would fit in it's place, and would the HK amp have enough power to drive one anyway? Probably not?

2) Get a small separate amp for the current subwoofer (which barely looks like a sub to me!)

3) Change both the amp and sub

Do Audison or some others do anything neat/plug and play??

Has anybody had any luck changing the sub?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)

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There are 3 good 10 inch options from JL Audio. You have just under 14 inch clearance under back deck in trunk. Width is limited because of curves on the sides to around 25inches

1. C210LG-TW1 Fits nicely under deck filling the entire area. 22x11.75x7.3 Only comes out a little less then an inch past the deck. Looks good with two large JL TW1 subs. Best for those who want a lot of base and listen to mainly rap music. Two TW1's should really shake a little car like the Giulia. Most expensive option but still much cheaper than custom built box and will look almost like it was made for your car. Very close to custom fit when sitting in the car.
http://www.jlaudio.com/cs210lg-tw1-car-audio-power-wedge-subwoofer-systems-93316

2. CS110LG-TW1-2 Single 10 inch sub in 15x11.75x5.5 so fills a little over half of the space. Plenty of space to put almost any amp next to sub. Cheapest option also
http://www.jlaudio.com/cs110lg-tw1-4-car-audio-power-wedge-subwoofer-systems-93324

3. CS110TG=TW3 19x12.375 wedge shape with 4.1 inches on top and 6.25 inches on bottom. Uses better sub fits in area really nice tucked in behind seat. Can turn around and wedge fits right up against seat using even less trunk space but you lose view of driver when you open the trunk.
http://www.jlaudio.com/cs110tg-tw3-car-audio-powerwedge-subwoofer-systems-93302

As for amplifier's there are tons of options. I would look for one with auto-sensing turn on though so you don't have to look for a amp turn signal. Many small and very powerful clean amps available today at a reasonable price point.

I recently chose option 3 with a JL Audio 500/1 amp to fit in the trunk under the Styrofoam on the drivers side. Having it installed on Monday so will let you know now it sounds and fits. Should have taken pictures of the 3 options today when I sat them in car but wasn't thinking about it. We placed each one in the car. Option 1 looked cool but I really thought that it was going to be too much bass for me. I mainly listen to classic rock, contemporary, metal, and jazz music. Not much rap and would prefer the cleaner tighter bass from a TW3 then more power from two TW1's. But that is just personal preference.

Tried a few of the ported subs but none of the 10 inch ones really fit well. They are right at 14 inches tall and would not slide under the deck. Ported subs have louder sound, boomier bass and really hit on certain frequencies. Usually they are louder then sealed cabinets which have tighter and cleaner bass but not quit as powerful of a sound. I prefer the sealed cabinets but most salesman will push you towards the ported cabinets for the louder sound.
 

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Can't Styrofoam be modified to accommodate a larger amplifier? And how is cooling in that compartment?
 

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Yes stryofoam can be modified to make for a bigger amplifier. Technically you could cut out the entire bottom if you wish. There is a lot of space in that area. Few wires and a fuse box is all that fills that space.

As far as cooling not sure on that aspect yet. Will have to wait and see. It is in trunk so probably not much different then elsewhere in the trunk.
 

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My thinks this will be a popular thread.
My request to all that perform modifications:
Please post:
Images
Exact model numbers of components used
Information for local, and internet purchasing
Hints and tips and wisdom for trouble-free installation
Thanks,
 
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Some really great ideas in this thread.

One thing I'd add with an external bass amp and sub enclosure is a remote bass control knob. This allows the level of the sub to be quickly and easily adjusted without getting into any clunky menu settings.

On front speakers-- has anyone figured out how to remove the tweeter pods in the dash corners? I've tried using interior trim tools and getting some leverage from the padded adjacent area by prying against another piece of plastic. I can get the pod up just a bit, but it is STUCK. Not sure if there is some sort of clip system or what? I'm afraid to try much more because the Quadrifglio padded leather can be easily damaged.

I like this: 10" JL Pro

The above sub will provide much deeper harder hitting bass at the expense of a little more space.
 

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http://stereointegrity.com/product/bm-mk-iv-12-subwoofer/

Best shallow sub bar none IMO and so says many audiophiles. Only requires .5 cubic ft of closed enclosure. I have had the Mk III and IV where the performance and quality have been amazing. Check out the torture tests on youtube. The woofer has the highest stroke, flattest BL, most linear and low inductance, shallow subwoofer on the market. I imagine the Mk V just took it up a notch.
 

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http://stereointegrity.com/product/bm-mk-iv-12-subwoofer/

Best shallow sub bar none IMO and so says many audiophiles. Only requires .5 cubic ft of closed enclosure. I have had the Mk III and IV where the performance and quality have been amazing. Check out the torture tests on youtube. The woofer has the highest stroke, flattest BL, most linear and low inductance, shallow subwoofer on the market. I imagine the Mk V just took it up a notch.
I'll ask my dumb question: with a relatively high efficiency speaker like this and and the passenger seat backs up, do you really need a separate amplifier or enclosure to make it work well?

I've also seen a suggestion of dismantling and/or replacing the center rear seat back and using it as a speaker mount/enclosure. It is perhaps a bit narrow for a large/high efficiency speaker but can avoid the loss of precious trunk space.

Don't forget, this car is already loaded up with electronics. You need to be careful that when you add an amplifier you do not disturb the operation of anything important. Reference the Jeffshul thread with his car stalling on the freeway and the speculation that his audio upgrade might have had something to do with it.
 

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http://stereointegrity.com/product/bm-mk-iv-12-subwoofer/

Best shallow sub bar none IMO and so says many audiophiles. Only requires .5 cubic ft of closed enclosure. I have had the Mk III and IV where the performance and quality have been amazing. Check out the torture tests on youtube. The woofer has the highest stroke, flattest BL, most linear and low inductance, shallow subwoofer on the market. I imagine the Mk V just took it up a notch.
Any idea who the main principal of their company? Trying to find some more reading on them... thanks
 

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My Giulia's bass seems sufficient on some songs while lacking on others. Perhaps as much of an eq issue as a hardware deficiency?

I have never had a factory system that couldn't be improved upon with aftermarket upgrades but stopped pursuing making changes once I started leasing.
 

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Any idea who the main principal of their company? Trying to find some more reading on them... thanks
Don't quote me on this but Nick Lemons who founded Stereo Integrity in 2000 was the owner of Sundown and Obsidian Audio and I am pretty sure he was the engineer for RE Audio's subs. Just search Stereo Integrity on the audio forums as his stuff is highly regarded.
 

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I'll ask my dumb question: with a relatively high efficiency speaker like this and and the passenger seat backs up, do you really need a separate amplifier or enclosure to make it work well?
Yes and Yes...stock amp just won't drive a quality aftermarket sub in most all cases. The enclosure is key to sound quality which is why Stereo Integrity is specific with the specs on the enclosure.
 

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Yes you will definitely need a separate amplifier to power a sub. A single sub amplifier should not effect the electronics of the car. If it does then you have to seriously question the build quality of the vehicle. The alternator should be provide more thenenough to power for a single mono channel amplifier. Millions of people have done this for many many years on all types of cars without any issues.

Now when you install more then one high end powerful amplifiers then this can cause excessive draw and you may be required to install a high power alternator and sometimes a second battery to meet those demands.
 

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If I add a subwoofer I would like to use the 8" free air sub that JL makes in their Marine line. The installation would require some clever adapters to mount the sub under the deck where the current sub is, and it would also be a more expensive installation, but on the plus side it would not take up so much space in the trunk. Sub's mounted in an enclosure are supposed to provide superior sound, but the free air sub mounted in my 2000 Nissan Maxima has always sounded really good, so I'm not concerned with making that choice.
 

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If I add a subwoofer I would like to use the 8" free air sub that JL makes in their Marine line. The installation would require some clever adapters to mount the sub under the deck where the current sub is, and it would also be a more expensive installation, but on the plus side it would not take up so much space in the trunk. Sub's mounted in an enclosure are supposed to provide superior sound, but the free air sub mounted in my 2000 Nissan Maxima has always sounded really good, so I'm not concerned with making that choice.
Can one of you explain what an enclosure does that one does not get from a partition? I see calculations online, but nothing resembling an actual explanation. If the audio is dependent on the acoustics of an enclosure, won't it degrade with changes in altitude?

A large diameter "sub woofer" (12" +) can take as little as 1/100th the power to drive for the same sound level as a typical 8" unit (80dB/Watt for some 8" speakers versus 100dB/Watt for a high efficiency 12" speaker). The weight can be kept under control by going with a speaker with Neo magnets and an aluminum frame. I think the main issue is fitting it, as 12" (actual OD is typically 14") is pretty large and difficult to position in a car the size of Giulia.

The issue with the diameter of the speaker appears to me to be mostly mechanical; it is hard to move a lot of air with a small diameter speaker. Can a spacer-adapter between a large speaker and a smaller opening work?
 

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I'm very interested in following this thread. @[email protected] please post pics of your install when it's done. This thread brings back fond memories of packing the trunk of my first car, an old Audi that cost $300, with $1,500 worth of stereo equipment when I was 16 years old. I had two 12s in a giant ported enclosure and only listened to rap music. My parents knew I was on the way home when I was still 5 minutes away because of the thumping. Now I'm a bit older and more restrained, but it'd be nice to replace the joke of a subwoofer that is in my QV.
 

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Would it achieve worthwhile gains to simply replace the stock sw speaker with one of higher quality powered by it's own mono amp?
I would rather not reduce my available trunk space with a sw box.
Perhaps modify the rear deck panel to accommodate one (or two) larger sw speaker(s) and appropriate amplification.
Please, let's keep this thread going!
 
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