How much better would existing sub sound with a sealed enclosure? Might be a cheap and easy improvement.

 

It won't work to do that as you will lower the output by putting the stock driver in a box. Speakers are so inexpensive I would suspect you could find a driver similar in size, if not the exact same size that has the similar impedance and sensitivity, but higher quality than the junk they include.

Even if it was more sensitive that could be addressed. I own a home stereo store and we're a JL Audio dealer so I suspect they will let me buy one at cost. I'd rather have it on a quick disconnect in case I need the space on a trip.

 

Lockem Yes my sub was simply placed in the trunk behind the drivers side backseat. I have a QV so seats do not fold. Sub is firing towards back of the car.

 

I took possession of my car today and see that the rear seat backs of the Ti have a thin board on the back. I doubt that this is rigid enough to provide any meaningful attenuation of sub-woofer frequencies (300Hz and below), especially at the lower frequency end of the range. I don't think a thicker board could be swapped in. My car is now at the PPF installer, so it will be another 2 weeks before I get a chance to extract more design information.

I wonder if QV has any boards at all? Perhaps bass reproduction is better in the 2.0T models than the QV?
I also wonder if there are any light weight materials that can reflect/attenuate this low frequency range. I know that low frequency sound absorbing materials are generally very thick and heavy, but what about sound reflecting materials?

 

I hope the Hyperloop as implemented has good subwoofers.

 

Great article.
Are these installations done by a professional?
Did anyone try to do it on their own?

 

I think only pcoates has tried an installation so far. Since he posted instructions I presume he did it himself.

Once I get my car I may try seeing what effect putting up an acoustic partition behind the rear seat backs has. It may both improve the sound quality of the stereo and decrease the noise in the cabin and may be more of what most people are wanting than a speaker + amplifier upgrade. The big questions being:

Is there significant sound quality improvement when this is done?
Can it be done without adding 20+ pounds of MDF?
Can it be done without disrupting the ability to lay down the rear seats?

The first question should be relatively easy to answer.

 

Ok, I am looking to try and add a sub to the HK system but can’t for the life of me access the amp or sub speaker wires.

I am going to simply put a line output converter into the system. My plan is to run the sub cables into the converter and then from there run RCA cables into my sub amp and so on. I have a Audio Control LC2i which will run into a JL amp and sub. All is ready to go but I cant access anything and dont want to mess up any interior panels trying to gain access.

Can anyone help or see issues with my plan?

 

The HK amp is located in the left rear quarter panel. Getting to it is a bit of a pain. The hard part is prying the skid plate loose that is supposed to protect the opening of the trunk from dragging your luggage over it. That one was very difficult for me to remove, and it actually did booger up a few of the clips. But they really are not all that important. Once you get that piece off, the rest of the panels are not too bad. However even those can present problems because the plastic retainers have features similar to Fish Hooks, which means that they are inserted much easier than they can be removed. Once you get to the amp you will find a big bundle of wires, with no way of knowing which wire goes where.

 

I am not a big fan of the HK audio in our Giulia's. The bass is definitely lacking, the mids are too strong and the highs are piercing at times. Clearly I didn't buy this car for the audio sounds, but it would be nice to enjoy music a little more than I currently do. I came from a VW with the Fender audio system, which sounded significantly better than the HK system. I don't want to start ripping into the car, but I may have to soon!

 

People find that a significant improvement on the HK is to turn off the "surround sound" option ......

 

Thank you for that info. I did tear into the left side of the trunk but found nothing I could recognize as the amp let alone individual speaker wires. The way Alfa has integrated the system into the car makes life tough. I guess this is the way they want it to stop people doing home mods.

I have had enough of the factory system and would like to try and use some of the components I have in my collection of car Audio junk. Trying not to go to the shop if I can help it. I have a hard time giving my Q over to someone I don’t really know.

If there is any other help out there it would be really helpful.


On another note I installed the exhaust bypass controller. Totally how Alfa should sell the car and the only way to really enjoy the total driving experience!

There is no other car I can think of that I would want right now.......

 

If you have the base system then an amplifier will not be located in the trunk. I think the base system is driven from the head unit in the dash. If you do have the upgraded HK system, then the amplifier has to be in the left rear quarter panel in the trunk. You can hardly miss it once the soft decorative panel has been removed. AR has started putting a protective cover over the amplifier to protect it from water intrusion into the trunk, so it's possible that you could not see the amplifier because of the cover. When I had it apart the cover had not yet been installed as part of a technical service bulletin, so I cannot say for certain what the cover should look like.

 

I agree with 4doorturbo that the midrange is too strong sounding. Luckily this can be fixed the mid level in the settings. However, something is off with the highs. I agree that they are definitely piercing but only on certain songs and at certain frequencies at high volumes. Almost hurts your ears to listen to them. Turning the treble down doesn't really fix it and makes music sound very flat. I think it is going to be very difficult to fix this problem without swapping speakers. Looks like 3 way components in front, 2 way components in the back. Not sure what is the center dash. I have no idea what size they all are either.

 

This thread has some good information about dialing in the HK aystem.

http://www.giuliaforums.com/forum/1001-audio-stereo/10170-how-adjust-harman-kardon-system.html

 

What about adding absorptive material?

 

To those who might not have seen on the "European" Giulia site (http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-giulia/), I have been upgrading the sound system to very satisfying results, without changing the speakers.
It's all about EQ and filters, that I have been using Audison amps and DSP's to accomplish - all without removing the in-built amp or other non-reversible changes.
The amp used is the Audison AP8.9 bit for all speakers except sub, where i use an Audison AP1D - both are ~500W with plenty of headroom.

The sound has gotten from a very high bass peak around 100hz and brittle treble reproduction, to very enjoyable and balanced across all frequencies.
So that standard speakers (I don't even have the HK option) are very capable of giving good results - just needs the right push

Check out the complete post with details here:
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-giulia/1128906-11-speaker-audio-upgrade.html#post16846290

 

True. DSP can do amazing things. Question is how do you implement it into the system. The upgrade you made was not done with the upgraded system, right? Imcan't visual the stock system. I'm guess it runs off one amplifier and you hooked up this amp basically off the speaker leads?

Another way to achieve this (though not to the same degree) is to equalize the source. In home systems that can be accomplished through Roon for one thing. If your phone is your source for music, much of this can be manipulated. My Galaxy S8 has an EQ and what hthey call an "upscaler"...even a tube amp sound setting. I don't know if those settings work when you are playing Tidal or Pandora through your car when it's plugged in.

That's the cheapest way to get some help.

 

Kevin it is very removable two wires a red and black clip then sub lifts right out. You will need a way to equalize the bass as the volume increases, I used an audiocontrol LC2i initially and it worked amazingly well. The accubass is absolutely amazing and will rock your car. I have pictures of the install in previous posts you will see the amp is hidden and the sub is removable in less than 10 seconds. I mounted the LC2i in the battery compartement above the battery.

 

I thought the amp that you bought had a low-pass crossover built in and speaker level input. Not true? That would make it simple.

 

Here are the pictures of the install of just the sub.

 

mikkelsj

Did the resistors work to fool the headunit and if so what size did you use audiocontrol recommended installing a 37-50 ohm 5-10w resistor per speaker across the +/- after the factory amplifier and prior to the processor. I might try this as the speaker warning light is a little annoying even though everything functions normally.

 

It is all in the post on Alfaowner.com

But they are (according to the technician) 2ohm, 35w resistors. I have no info on make or model.
It does mean that the parking sensors and other warnings now come from the infotainment system, and not the little speaker under the dash.

 

Actually I kinda like the warnings coming from the little speaker because before they were too loud and muted the radio which was annoying. That is the best benefit so far of having the speaker warning light on.

 

Too bad that’s not an option in infotainment. I’d also prefer warnings to not come through all speakers and muting the radio.

 

Yes the amp does have a crossover built in and can be used without the LC2i but it is worth having for accubass to boost the bass as the volume is increased. You can always try it without it and see how it sounds. If bass is great to you at all volumes you are in good shape. If bass sounds great at low volumes but decreases as you increase volume then you will need it to adjust for the stock amp/head unit trimming down bass to the speakers as volume increases. Watch these videos and it will explain what I am talking about.

 

Does anyone have pics of the actual factory amp and wiring changes when adding the external sub?

 

Here is picture of left rear trunk with stock amp and speaker wire harness

 

Sent you a PM. What did you use to keep the sub from moving? I'm going to use earthquake straps I think.

 

Got it. The 2nd video explains it. Thanks!

 

I am very interested in JUST replacing the rear deck sub and adding an amp (for the sub).
Please post info as you find it.
Thanks,

 

Factory HK Sub comes out really easy.

Pop down the back seat, there are 5 push rivets, pop them out,pull off plastic panel, then unscrew the torx head fasteners holding the package tray down, and pull up and forward on the package tray.

Sub is bolted in from the top, and the wires going to it are on the side facing the rear window. violet, and violet and black.

More in the AM. I'm probably gonna pull the sub for venting, and install a 12" and a small D class amp. easy.

 

1) it is the violet and violet / black wire back there.

2)- cutting it triggers the speaker out warning. that sucks.

Plan now is to install a sub using a resistor across the terminals to simulate a speaker and go high-low level converter. or, just plug into the sub while it still works and go directly into high level in.

 

Apologies for the old thread revival.

Will the error still present if the standard violet/violet and black wires are fed into an active/powered LOC and then the new sub/amp powered directly from the battery ?

Aerpro | First Choice

aerpro.com

Or if i replaced the above with this, would it be better? (I think the LC2 would be overkill for my intent, but open to reason.)

Aerpro APHL2A 2-Channel LOC & RCA Line Driver

Aerpro Line Output Converters will convert your existing cars factory head-units high level (speaker output) into a low voltage line level (RCA) output allowing you to add on an aftermarket amplifier to an OEM headunit.

frankiesautoelectrics.com.au

If this is the case, will putting a resistor where the standard wiring meets the LOC wiring work? And will this prevent the Sub volume reducing as the volume increases ?

Thanks in advance.

 

There you have it. 6 ohm speaker. Paper cone with pleated paper surround, about as cheap as it gets. Absolutely no compliance, garbage.

6 Ohm 25W resistor incoming. There's no way I can see it requiring more.

 

Can you measure the dimensions of the stock sub for us?
I wonder if there is a better aftermarket one that may bolt right in?

Thanks

Mike

 

This shuts the light off.

12W 6 Ohm works, doesn't even get warm.

 

Wire in parallel.

Wire in parallel, easy. No lights on dash.

 

Can you show where you ran the wire? I need to run a wire for my electric cut out through the engine space/behind the accelerator peddle

thanks

Wire in parallel.

Wire in parallel, easy. No lights on da