Race on stelvio quad doesnt quite switch it to rwd.
What it does seem to do, and each mode successively, is delay the transfer of power to the front. Net effect, by the time you get to race mode it is like rwd with a mild nanny that doesnt cut power when you get "excessive yaw", it just transfers so you are less likely to swap ends. On slippery surfaces that can still be done, so given high enough (foolish enough) speed, you could do it on dry as well.
On snow even lower horsepower models should be able to do donuts etc easily.

 

I need this.

 

I now have race mode working on my RHD Uk Giulia 2.0L Petrol Veloce. As you can see above getting the trim off first time was a bit nail biting for someone not used to using trim tools and removing plastic trim hoping to put it back on. Thanks for advice above very helpful. I have used the 2017 DNAR selector I bought second hand. I also ordered the new DNAR switch from Alfa, but didn't want to risk updated part not working and not being able to find an older so bought both. The new part also worked so to confirm part numbers both (2017) p/n 156121266 and (2019) p/n 156131347 can be activated on a 2.0l RHD Petrol giulia. Here is a quick video while stationary of Race mode being activated Race Mode Video Link.

Here are some tips from a novice to someone trying to do this. The trim is very difficult to release the first time round. I was following the Alfa Service manual and it really doesn't give you much information. I found that taking off the coin holder first (easy). I didn't bother to take off the lid or back facing rear passenger seats. Had a look but could work out how to pry. In the end not necessary in my opinion. I next loosened the storage bin sides using the thinnest trim removal tool. It will clip off a little but not come off all the way. The storage bin has large clips that stop it being lifted up easily without partially taking up the gear shift bezel trim and centre console. Start at the front at the cupholder side. On mine one of the sides had more room and was easier to take up. From there just work around with the trim tool and make enough room to be able to pull up the storage bin free. When putting back both the storage bin and centre console trim go in together pushing down the storage bin first. Once the centre console was out it was easy, just make sure you have some star bits for screwdriver. I took out the trim a second time to check second DNAR switch and it was far simpler. So will make removing for Dealer trips pretty simple. Main word of warning would be to be careful of scratching the upright sides above the centre console I have done some light stratching that I will need to try and polish out somehow. Possible protection with some tape or other would avoid this.

The MES side of it was easy if you knew what to prepare for. After changing bit 88 from AC to CC and run the proxy alignment a whole load of system unavailable messages come up (ESC, FCW, TSC, ABS, Parking brake and hill start). These disappear once the three ABS Calibrations have been executed. These are very sensitive to if done on a level surface first time I tried on what thought was a flat drive, but would not run the steering alignment calibration. Moved to somewhere else and it worked. I did also get a check engine light, which caused me to reinstall original DNA switch. This disappeared after a couple of engine restarts. I then reinstalled the DNAR switch and it didn't reoccur. I think it was probably something todo with a bit of messing about with trying to get the ABS calibration to run.

Have not had time to properly test, over next week or so will give it a go and will take to a track early September so should be able to report back then.

 

These disappear once the three ABS Calibrations have been executed.

Can you elaborate on how each of the three ABS calibrations are done?

My cable is in transit and have not used MES at all but I am familiar with coding BMWs

 

for those who are sceptic here a test of the race mode on my Giulia Veloce Q4 2.0 TMA 280HP
the Q4 works also in race mode, the balance is like in the Stelvio Q 50:50 instead of 60:40

greets from Austria

 

for those who are sceptic here a test of the race mode on my Giulia Veloce Q4 2.0 TMA 280HP
the Q4 works also in race mode, the balance is like in the Stelvio Q 50:50 instead of 60:40

greets from Austria

That's what I am talking about.

 

YES!!!
a proper motorcar!

 

Would a Ti Perf Pkg modder kindly show dash photos of the three settings for the adjustable shocks in Race Mode?

Thanks,

 

What do you need to see? Cycle through modes of dampers or what?

 

Where is everyone ordering theirs from? The knobs.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

Dealer.

 

RACE-Mode:

• Switch:
  
  
  
• Display:
  
  
  
• Switch after pressing button:
  
  
  
• Display after pressing button:
  

 

Thanks!

 

Yes - these are the calibrations you need to perform.
They only take about a second each and really aren't difficult.

One thing to note: Make sure to set the steering wheel dead straight (take a look at the sensor value within MultiEcuScan) and that the car is on a level surface.

And another hint: move the car to a level surface before you remove the handbrake switch. Don't ask

 

Thanks for the info!

 

@stocki - is the red damper only available in race? Or can you cycle between yellow (mid) and red (firm)?

 

Race: Hard (red illumination) and Mid (white illumination)

D: "Mid" (white illumination) and Soft (no illumination)

 

I'm a little hesitant swapping the knob... Every time I remove panels I end up breaking some plastic...
For you guys that did it, how hard is it?

 

I know the feeling.

Take your time, use proper plastic trim removal tools, remove the extra bits (armrest) and you should be fine.

 

Ok, I'm way too excited, but I think I have cracked the DNA --> RDNA conversion. Super simple. Probably just a single microswitch like @Dorifto bought, and a single surface mount resistor...

performing calculations beep boop computer noises

 

I think we need a single 147Ω resistor and a microswitch.

When each switch is activated, it adds another resistor in parallel.

A mode is basically a series circuit with a single 1,330Ω resistor.
N adds an 866Ω resistor in parallel for a combined 523Ω resistance.
D adds a 432Ω resistor, again in parallel for 236Ω total resistance.
R would need to add a 147Ω resistor to get to the magically delicious 90.8Ω for RACE mode.

!@#!@#!@# THIS HAS NOT BEEN VERIFIED OR TESTED YET !@#!@#!@#

Stay tuned, I will see what I can do tonight.

 

Its not that complex. You need a 90.8 ohm resistor in the right place. The three modes are activated via combination ot the first two switches. A mode only 1.3 kohms, activation of switch 1 connects 523 ohms, activation if switch 2 connects 236 ohm resistor, switch 3 should connect 90.8 ohm resistor. All resistors are connected in parallel. The third one is a trigger only. So you need to find the place where to put the 90.8 resistor. I think its the one missing, next to the missing switch.

 

I disagree. The numbers work out perfectly, and evaluating the circuit board it appears to be exactly what I said, but I will confirm.

 

I agree. I am wrong. In the empty slot near the empty switch you must put 147 ohm resistor, that should make it work. Just finished calculating and testing

Now i need the part number of the micro switches

 

Me too! @Dorifto care to share?

 

Any chance of just spoofing the switch with a canbus command?

 

Anyway finished my "stealth" super duper go fast button installation, hahahah, easy to hide, just pop the shifter cover and put it under, haha

 

Haha, mine is in the armrest.

 

So in summary, this mod requires the QV rotary dial, a specialist Multiscan ECU program with applicable cable, Windows 10 and the appropriate adjustments to the stock PROXI (CA to CC)..... correct ? Anything i missed ?

I've read through the whole thread but a couple of questions....

Where do you source the Multiscan/cables from ?

Are the paddle shifters still used in race mode (i have the performance pack)?

If i stuff something up along the way PROXI wise, can you revert to standard settings easy enough and start over?

I'm assuming this mod would show up on the service departments diagnostic tools and void any warranty ?

Thanks in advance.

 

I can get you the cables, the Qv dial all you need is computer with W10 and MES license and software.

I have several options for cables. All made in Germany. I suggest the bulk set with most of them that you'd need for diagnosing and accessing each component area.

Simple one:

Or all of them:

This should not void warranty but if they do a software update for example it could revert it back and you'd have to start over. I'd take a picture or copy the PROXI before making changes.

 

Wow that’s a lot of cables! Are those all required for MES? Isn’t there some universal adapter?


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I tried to order the micro switches ...10 with shipping to my location equals 50$ I will wait for the race knob from QV.

 

I do have interest in doing this, and buying the RDNA switch, however, how does this not void the warranty? I am just curious, as my 2019 Q4, TI is only a few months old, and I was even thinking of getting the extended warranty. Would this not be a flag when taking it in for service? Also, I assume the 2019 would work as described in this thread? I have only seen earlier models being described.

 

Multiecuscan SGW BY PASS LITE MODULE Sblocco Proxy 2018 FCA

Anyone try or use this?; And or what physical location allows this to be plugged in? SGW BY PASS LITE MODULE Sblocco Proxy 2018 FCA All 2018 FCA vehicles are built with an SGW Security Gateway Module that prevents access to the vehicle from the OBD2 port by anything but the dealer diagnostic...

www.giuliaforums.com

May have obd port issues....

 

I mean it can void warranty if you will have dna+r switch on a regular giulia, it will raise few eyebrows and questions, thats why its better to go with original switch but dnar internals or a switch you can hide anytime.. thate just my 2 cents

 

So, it's better to mod the current switch? I assume there is no "electronic trace" of having used race mode when bringing the car in?

 

I think only cables you need for giulia are Elm 327 and blue and grey adapter. All other adapters are for other makes / models of FCA cars. Need USB to do proxy alignment needed for DNAR mod.

 

For ALFA You have:

Adapter 16pin ABS/AIRBAG/GEAR/SERVO/CAN
RED/YELLOW/GREEN

Purple adapter (adapter 4) for MultiECUScan / AlfaOBD (controls xenon lights for example)

Blue adapter (adapter 5) for Multiecuscan/AlfaOBD (It is a "Middle CANBUS Adapter".)

Grey adapter (adapter 6) for Multiecuscan/AlfaOBD (It is a "Two Highspeed CANBUS Adapter".)

So the one I have with all of them seemed appropriate so I have everything in-case I need it. I will have them set up in packages.

 

Unfortunately mes license works on only 1 computer at a time. Need to deregister to reinstall on another.

 

Exactly, you can use the cables on Fiat / Alfa / lancia (I believe), along with the OBD2 interface adapter. MES is single computer only.