"Yes ABS is on in race mode."
most of the tracking complaints about tire and brake wear would go away if you turned it off haha

congrats to all of you who cracked the code and have made these Alfas what they should be!

 

I think we are still waiting on a North America 2.0T to have this enabled using these suggestions. So far I believe it's only Europe that has confirmed it to be working.

 

"only Europe"

we are all waiting for Dorifto's full and enthusiastic report, complete with vids!

 

...and color commentary!!

 

I'm super curious to see stock, chipped, and tuner boxed 2.0s redo their Draggy times with Race mode. Even as a QV owner, I'm excited about this for you guys.

 

What aplication is it? It is working on phone?

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka

 

I obviously disagree on the brakes - the excessive wear is because they work so well. without the ABS most peoplw would be backing off the pedal when one tire started to lock, relieving the pressure on all 4 corners. with the conti system it's pretty darn easy to brake hard and later into the corner, which also means you are braking from a higher speed as you can stay on the gas longer.
toss in the pumps which completely mask brake fade by increasing the pressure to keep the same performance ....

the faster one is willing to go, the more this system will be of benefit, downside being money due to wear.
like most go-fast stuff.

 

beaups "unlocked" the ABS, it will be interesting to see if anyone chooses to utilize it for track days, and what the results are.

"you will be braking later at the end of straight at a higher rate of speed compared to the car with ABS. " - I expect the exact opposite. independent "control" over each corner is something no driver can pull off. feel free to try, but you will first need a lever/pedal for each of your limbs.

to the thread, the good part of this R mode is you keep the ABS, which the other methods didn't do. if ABS off was a good thing, the other methods would be preferable.

 

OK I think now I understand and agree with you after considering the brake by wire system on our cars. It probably does not offer the same feedback and confidence inspiration to the driver as conventional braking system. So it is harder to threshold brake. This means the ABS will do a way better job, thus able to brake later and harder to cause more wear. Sorry for my confusion. FYI, I have never track my Giulia before. I was just speaking from my experience for conventional braking system in the dry, without ABS always a little faster than with ABS on track. And so more wear.

 

I think that my early 2017 build Giulia Ti Sport has the 4 position switch with race mode blocked off. When I place the switch in D, there is a little bit of wiggle to turn slightly past D mode, but this wiggle does not exist in A. That makes me think that the switch would be able to turn further and engage race mode if not for whatever pin is stopping it (after changing the appropriate bytes of course). Would this be a correct assumption, or will certain electronic components be missing from the switch? Also, is the stop easy enough to grind out (assuming I don’t accidentally break it like @Dorifto)?

 

my 2018 feels the same way, and after taking it apart last night it can definintely go past D and spring back. Mine only has 2 micro-switches though, your's probably has 3 being a 2017. Taking it apart was making me nervous, I didn't want to break anything, but I got it done free and clear. Need to be very careful.

 

Mine is early 2017, had 2 microswitches..

 

Oh, well then. Get those parts yet?

 

Just got the spare switches, off to electronic store for them to get soldered!

 

What's the build date on your Giulia? Do you have the suspension button? What's the part number on the switches and resitor and where did you get them? THANKS.

 

one question, me and kozak we only changed byte 88, but some of you change 3 bytes. do you know what sits in the other 2 and if it is really needed?

 

I think it was Kozak himself who first suggested to change all 3 bytes. Afterwards he said only the 88 was needed.

 

To the guys with race mode, have you tried launching from dead stop?

 

So I have a 2017 Giulia Q4 built in December of 2016, I changed 88 AC -> CC in multiECUscan and it fails to complete a proxi align, it says drivetrain out of range and then the odometer flashes, so the only way I can get the car working again is to switch 88 CC back to 88 AC and then do the 3 configs with the contiABS system.
Any ideas why this will not work?

 

What kind of interface are you using? USB, Bluetooth, ...?

 

lack of switch would have no effect for proxi success nor for flashing odometer. i also tried regular switch after activating race and it was working normally as expected - race switch difference is only additional microswitch for race position.

that is odd case @beta2alfa. maybe depends on market there are different proxi changes required or even firmwares of ecu/esp etc differ blocking some options?hope for you not.
lets maybe try to do some statistics here who succeeded and who didnt and what car config year and market car it was tried

mine is 2.0 280HP Veloce Q4 prod 4.2018 EMEA market.
kozak's is 2.0 200HP (~310now) Super RWD prod. 2016 EMEA.

 

Mine is giulia 2.2D 180cv 2016 EMEA

 

This is my Stock PROXI config, if any one knows of other thing to try let me know.

 

Your car is 2018 ?

 

One byte is AC, change to CC and Look

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka

 

One byte is AC, change to CC and Look

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka

I already did that and it didn't work.

 

Finally found a place who can work on the switch, will be going there on monday, got the switched soldered on, but since the 3rd one isnt hooked up with resistors it brakes the chain and switch doesnt work, company i found said, they can put the switch on the bech, test it and manage to install resistors to get the required ohms, wish i knew more about electronics haha

 

So where did you get the switches and what's the part numbers?

 

Each line in the window is 24 pairs, find the 4th line, 16th position should be AC, change to CC.

 

So I have a 2017 Giulia Q4 built in December of 2016, I changed 88 AC -> CC in multiECUscan and it fails to complete a proxi align, it says drivetrain out of range and then the odometer flashes, so the only way I can get the car working again is to switch 88 CC back to 88 AC and then do the 3 configs with the contiABS system.
Any ideas why this will not work?Yeah I know didn't work

 

Hello, guys.
Read it here for days.

Got the same problem as you !

I converted my original DNA knob.

but if i try to make the proxy is the same error of beta2alfa.

I have a Giulia Veloce 2.0T build in late 2016 with Performance package.

Did you add Paddle shifters, because I did and I had to enable them through mutiecuscan.
Also what USB cable are you using, What version of windows are you using, what drivers are you using for the USB cable as well?

 

Did you add Paddle shifters, because I did and I had to enable them through mutiecuscan.

No, I already got them

 

Anyone have instructions on pulling the DNA switch?

 

Anyone have instructions on pulling the DNA switch?

Edit: here it is https://inkocraft.weebly.com/center-console-dismantling.html

I don't think that link refers to the DNA knob.....
afaik, all you need to do is remove the gearlever surround using plastic tools, it's only clipped in. Then remove the DNA knob, fixed by screws from below.
could be wrong though, haven't tried it myself

 

This is so awesome. After seeing this thread I immediately went to take apart my DNA knob. Unfortunately I only have 2 switches. I have an April 2017 build date with performance pack. I can't wait to get my QV knob.

 

This is very good, i havent seen a switch yet with 2 switches and dampener setting, gives more info on resistors and whats needed, thanks!

 

@1mk1 - if you have 3 switch, are you pretty much good to go and remove the plastic barrier?

 

@blisstik
From the info provided on here, if I have 3 switches, just trim plastic and change byte in MES and should be ready. So yes to your question. But I only have 2 switches so I need new knob.

 

@1mk1 - I saw that but also saw one with 4 switches? Don't we need 4 switches? DNA + R is 4 modes!

 

I must have missed the post you mentioned with 4 switches. But not necessarily, default with no switches pressed is one mode already. So 3 switches for 4 mode is OK.

 

I think its different.

A mode 0 switch pressed
N mode 1 switch pressed
D mode 2 switches pressed
R mode 3 switches pressed at the same time.

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka

 

I think its different.

A mode 0 switch pressed
N mode 1 switch pressed
D mode 2 switches pressed
R mode 3 switches pressed at the same time.

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka

Nope, i had the switch apart and connected, checked which switch does what. A mode all switches off
Other modes have separate switches

 

Maybe the AWD can't do it?

 

Mine is Q4.

 

Are you able to do donuts? Does this effectively make it a rwd?