Just noticed that Squadra Tuning in The Netherlands can now access race mode on non-QV cars, see
Squadra race mode
Squadra race mode
jwq2
"Yes ABS is on in race mode."
most of the tracking complaints about tire and brake wear would go away if you turned it off haha
congrats to all of you who cracked the code and have made these Alfas what they should be!
most of the tracking complaints about tire and brake wear would go away if you turned it off haha
congrats to all of you who cracked the code and have made these Alfas what they should be!
I think we are still waiting on a North America 2.0T to have this enabled using these suggestions. So far I believe it's only Europe that has confirmed it to be working.
"only Europe"
we are all waiting for Dorifto's full and enthusiastic report, complete with vids!
we are all waiting for Dorifto's full and enthusiastic report, complete with vids!
I'm super curious to see stock, chipped, and tuner boxed 2.0s redo their Draggy times with Race mode. Even as a QV owner, I'm excited about this for you guys.
I obviously disagree on the brakes - the excessive wear is because they work so well. without the ABS most peoplw would be backing off the pedal when one tire started to lock, relieving the pressure on all 4 corners. with the conti system it's pretty darn easy to brake hard and later into the corner, which also means you are braking from a higher speed as you can stay on the gas longer.
toss in the pumps which completely mask brake fade by increasing the pressure to keep the same performance ....
the faster one is willing to go, the more this system will be of benefit, downside being money due to wear.
like most go-fast stuff.
toss in the pumps which completely mask brake fade by increasing the pressure to keep the same performance ....
the faster one is willing to go, the more this system will be of benefit, downside being money due to wear.
like most go-fast stuff.
beaups "unlocked" the ABS, it will be interesting to see if anyone chooses to utilize it for track days, and what the results are.
"you will be braking later at the end of straight at a higher rate of speed compared to the car with ABS. " - I expect the exact opposite. independent "control" over each corner is something no driver can pull off. feel free to try, but you will first need a lever/pedal for each of your limbs.
to the thread, the good part of this R mode is you keep the ABS, which the other methods didn't do. if ABS off was a good thing, the other methods would be preferable.
"you will be braking later at the end of straight at a higher rate of speed compared to the car with ABS. " - I expect the exact opposite. independent "control" over each corner is something no driver can pull off. feel free to try, but you will first need a lever/pedal for each of your limbs.
to the thread, the good part of this R mode is you keep the ABS, which the other methods didn't do. if ABS off was a good thing, the other methods would be preferable.
I think that my early 2017 build Giulia Ti Sport has the 4 position switch with race mode blocked off. When I place the switch in D, there is a little bit of wiggle to turn slightly past D mode, but this wiggle does not exist in A. That makes me think that the switch would be able to turn further and engage race mode if not for whatever pin is stopping it (after changing the appropriate bytes of course). Would this be a correct assumption, or will certain electronic components be missing from the switch? Also, is the stop easy enough to grind out (assuming I don’t accidentally break it like @Dorifto)?
my 2018 feels the same way, and after taking it apart last night it can definintely go past D and spring back. Mine only has 2 micro-switches though, your's probably has 3 being a 2017. Taking it apart was making me nervous, I didn't want to break anything, but I got it done free and clear. Need to be very careful.
one question, me and kozak we only changed byte 88, but some of you change 3 bytes. do you know what sits in the other 2 and if it is really needed?
So I have a 2017 Giulia Q4 built in December of 2016, I changed 88 AC -> CC in multiECUscan and it fails to complete a proxi align, it says drivetrain out of range and then the odometer flashes, so the only way I can get the car working again is to switch 88 CC back to 88 AC and then do the 3 configs with the contiABS system.
Any ideas why this will not work?
Any ideas why this will not work?
lack of switch would have no effect for proxi success nor for flashing odometer. i also tried regular switch after activating race and it was working normally as expected - race switch difference is only additional microswitch for race position.
that is odd case @beta2alfa. maybe depends on market there are different proxi changes required or even firmwares of ecu/esp etc differ blocking some options?hope for you not.
lets maybe try to do some statistics here who succeeded and who didnt and what car config year and market car it was tried
mine is 2.0 280HP Veloce Q4 prod 4.2018 EMEA market.
kozak's is 2.0 200HP (~310now) Super RWD prod. 2016 EMEA.
that is odd case @beta2alfa. maybe depends on market there are different proxi changes required or even firmwares of ecu/esp etc differ blocking some options?hope for you not.
lets maybe try to do some statistics here who succeeded and who didnt and what car config year and market car it was tried
mine is 2.0 280HP Veloce Q4 prod 4.2018 EMEA market.
kozak's is 2.0 200HP (~310now) Super RWD prod. 2016 EMEA.
Finally found a place who can work on the switch, will be going there on monday, got the switched soldered on, but since the 3rd one isnt hooked up with resistors it brakes the chain and switch doesnt work, company i found said, they can put the switch on the bech, test it and manage to install resistors to get the required ohms, wish i knew more about electronics haha
Attachments
This is very good, i havent seen a switch yet with 2 switches and dampener setting, gives more info on resistors and whats needed, thanks!
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