If i went with TMC's tuner, and got the RDNA button and modified the bits to give the car race mode, would there be any issues?

 

Hey everyone, I just installed the race button on my 2018 Giulia 2.0 Q4. Everything went smoothly except at the end of the proxy alignment the DTCM failed. After I finished everything I was left with the flashing odometer. I have type 2 and honestly the car feels faster than ever. Lots of people saying type 2 makes the engine resort to N in all modes. Its weird for me because the car feels way faster than my phase 2 so I'm kind of confused with it. It could be because traction control is off but I doubt it makes that big of a difference. The transmission is also much more aggressive and quick. So I'm kind of debating if I should request EC to put the phase 2 map in N mode. But back to the DTCM, I read the forums on it but I would really appreciate some more clarification on the update I need for it? Also would I even need to update it, I have a flashing odometer but everything else seems to be working fine including Race mode. After race mode I received a 5 sec 0-60 and a 13.4 1/4 mile. Its all honestly weird because now I'm thinking phase 2 worsened the performance of my car. I would really appreciate everyones opinion and advice.

 

I found by rerunning the proxy alignment a couple of times I could eventually get all modules to correctly align.

I even went and got a new OBD2 dongle for Multiecuscan, and that made no difference. Try try again.

Hope this helps,

 

I simply got the DTCM update based on the info published here and had no DTCM related proxy alignment issues. Who knows what is going on in your transfer without a valid proxy alignment.

I don't think there is any power difference between stock N and D. The transmission and pedal behaviors differ to make the performance in D appear to be better.

I found that the brake pedal is a bit harder in R and that stopping distance seems to be reduced. The fast shifts in R make full manual control of the 8 speed transmission usable.

 

I believe my proxy issue stemmed from the parking sensors picking up the garage wall when running the procedure. This also seemed to be the case when trying to unlock the ebrake from BMS mode. Moving the car solved both issues for me at least.

After RDNA was installed, I could tell the throttle response in D mode was slower. I have a Remus Responder (throttle control) and used to run it on Sport 2 mode in D. I now run it in Race 2. That still seems a bit off compared to the previous D mode setting, but close enough. As for the shifts. I’ve only been using the paddles since adding them.

 

Having some trouble installing my RDNA. I have all necessary equimoment.
After installing and going through proxi and after clearing dash codes. My (D) shows 2 of the traction things before going into race. But after selecting race it will not work. . .
I then go do a burnout and the (D) no longer shows the 2 traction symbols... As if it clears them. What do i need?
2017 base giulia 😒

 

Well...I installed the RDNA selector and of course failed on the DTCM proxi. I have version 0401, so I'll need to get it updated. Oh well, going to dealer in a couple weeks to get a new radio and display installed, I'll get them to do it then. 2017 Q4 with 06/17 build date.

 

The proxi issue (for me at least) resulted in from the rear parking sensor picking up my garage wall. You can also get it if the garage is uneven. Try clearing things out of the way or moving the car.

 

I have previously bricked my car trying to do the proxy alignment and needed it to be completely reset by the dealer. Want to try this mod and have installed the switch. If the proxy alignment goes wrong, is there any way to salvage things so the car will run? Seems like it has failed for a few people. Have you all had to have the car towed?

THanks

 

I have previously bricked my car trying to do the proxy alignment and needed it to be completely reset by the dealer. Want to try this mod and have installed the switch. If the proxy alignment goes wrong, is there any way to salvage things so the car will run? Seems like it has failed for a few people. Have you all had to have the car towed?

THanks

I would copy the entire stock procsi table to notepad and save it as a backup. If you can only flash some of the modules and can't get others to flash you could have a mismatch, which you could just undo by reflashing the stock table to the modules you could get to in the first place.

 

I haven't heard of anyone getting into that situation. You can always get it back to stock config, as far as I know.

 

This happened to me the other week. I need my DTCM updated. I was able to go back to stock without issue.

 

Ok. I'm going to give it a go this coming weekend. Can I get a phone number from you? I'll PM you

 

New to the alfa/giulia - why would i want to do this? Just - as someone ignorant to the benifits of the Race mode selector in my Ti.

 

Start from the beginning of the thread.

Quick summary:
Get traction control disable with ABS enable.
Get more responsive manual shifts.
Get harder, more linear brake pedal response.
If you have performance pack, get harder suspension settings.

If you have no use for any of those things, don't bother with race mod.

 

Good morning, I modified my DNA selector installing the switch and the resistance. Unfortunately while I was assembling the selector I broke the little plastic cam of "A" switch. So I tried to weld an other switch instead of the old broken.

As result R is now working but A not. Do you know if for the A switch I need to weld all the four lead? The original one had all 4 welded.

thanks a lot

 

I did the same and after a few false starts appear to have the race mode working. Odometer flashes, but everything else seems good and all error codes cleared. Really interested to hear if this might be affecting power transfer to the front wheels, as I am most interested in this for winter driving: if you get stuck in deep snow traction control will get all wheels to stop spinning. SOmetimes you nned to just spin all wheels to rock the car out. wanted to make sure however that I am not just riving a rear wheel drive car now...

 

This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

Here is a Youtube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!

The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):

1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
   1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
   1. The MES site has recommendations.
   2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
   1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
   2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
4. For 2018 + Giulia's (manufacture date roughly after February 2018) it is very likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM).
   1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
   2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses. View attachment 95626
   3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
   4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
   5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
   6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
   7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.

Now for options!

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)

1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
   1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
   2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
   3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.

Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)

1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though .
2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
   1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
   2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. View attachment 90482
   3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part). View attachment 90483
   4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
   5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
   6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow). View attachment 90480
   7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
3. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.

You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch (Needs modification):

• Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
• Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer​	C&K
Series​	HDP
Circuit​	SPST-NO
Switch Function​	Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)​	1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC​	5V
Actuator Type​	Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type​	Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style​	Gull Wing
Features​	Board Guide
Pretravel​	0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature​	-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position​	0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0

Manufacturer	TE Connectivity Passive Product
Series	RP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging	Cut Tape (CT)
Part Status	Active
Resistance	147 Ohms
Tolerance	±0.1%
Power (Watts)	0.25W, 1/4W
Composition	Thin Film
Temperature Coefficient	±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature	-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case	0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package	0805
Size / Dimension	0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)	0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations	2

Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:

1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
2. Click Connect
3. If older than MES version 4.5:
   1. To enter PROXI configuration, hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
   2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
   3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
   4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is )
4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
   1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
   2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
   3. Choose one and click OK
5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
8. Disconnect from the Body module
9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
16. Start vehicle
17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
18. Turn off vehicle again
19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)

• ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
• A = A in ECM/BCM
• N = N in ECM/BCM
• D = D in ECM/BCM
• R = No change

Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)

• ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
• A = N in ECM
• A = A in BCM
• N = N in ECM
• N = N in BCM
• D = N in ECM
• D = D in BCM
• Race Mode =
  • Race mode is indicated
  • Larger speed indication in center display
  • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
  • N in ECM
  • D in BCM
  • ? in TCM
  • Disables FCW
  • Disables ASC/TCS

Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)

• ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
• A = N in ECM
• A = A in BCM
• N = N in ECM
• N = N in BCM
• D = N in ECM
• D = D in BCM
• ASC/TSC off mode =
  • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
  • N in ECM
  • D in BCM
  • ? in TCM
  • Disables FCW
  • Disables ASC/TCS

CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:

1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
   1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.

KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

• Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
• Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
• Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
  • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
• Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.

Question to the KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS: section.

I completed the Race mode mod, I can use it however the odometer is blinking, and I could not pass through the PROXI alignment in this new setting due to the
Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error

So, does this mean I will be okay driving it with a blinking odometer? Again, Race Mode works after editing Byte 88 from A8 to CC, Byte 115 from 14 to 16, and Byte 157 from 30 to 01. However, the odometer blinks without any issues or check engine lights. Are there any solutions to this? My Giulia is a 2017 Base model, built in 06/17.

 

Questions=

Question to the KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS: section.

I completed the Race mode mod, I can use it however the odometer is blinking, and I could not pass through the PROXI alignment in this new setting due to the
Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error

So, does this mean I will be okay driving it with a blinking odometer? Again, Race Mode works after editing Byte 88 from A8 to CC, Byte 115 from 14 to 16, and Byte 157 from 30 to 01. However, the odometer blinks without any issues or check engine lights. Are there any solutions to this? My Giulia is a 2017 Base model, built in 06/17.

For Race mode I only ever change byte 88, not sure about those others you changed.

 

So I reached out to Alfa Romeo Premium care. They said that to update the dtcm I would have to specify what problems I was having with the current dtcm I did not want to discuss race mode of course. They said they would advance the request however and that if there were enough additional requests in our community it might be taken up and an update offered. Does anyone have any idea what legitimate improvements the newer dtcm software might provide? I would encourage everyone in the US who is interested in race mode to similarly request an update of their old dtcm software. Once we do have enough snow I intend to reinstall race mode and see if the car continues to allow the front wheels to provide power with slip.

 

Rumi, I just noticed you were able to get it to work, albeit with the flashing odometer. That's cool!

@Crosshairs ?

 

If the proxy alignment fails, you can always go to the dealer to have it done.

They have the option to either do a restore to factory or to just execute the alignment procedure.

 

Unless the failing module is updated, it cannot align, no matter who does it.

 

Yes Jefizz!

Super fun in race with the shudder with each shift under there throttle. Of course half the fun is having the center screen show race and the lines go yellow. If I could have double paddle neutral i'd drive the car like this all the time.

 

I am sorry if this already have been addressed, but there are to many pages to read them all I hope some of you more knowledgeable can answer my questions

I understand that race mode will have the settings from N, which in my case is mostly gearbox, throttle response (I don't have adaptive suspension). This raised some questions I hope some of you will help me with:

1. Can a tuner peddle overcome the shortcoming of having a more aggressive peddle response. I like the throttle response in D mode, so having that option would be optimal
2. Will D function as it always have, or will that be the same a N after reprogramming ?
3. If I run automatic gear box in race, will it shift like it does in N mode ? Or is paddles the only way to go in race mode ?

I have already tuned my car with Celtic tuning so going the EC route were they switch the maps is to much hassle/money for me.

 

I am sorry if this already have been addressed, but there are to many pages to read them all I hope some of you more knowledgeable can answer my questions

I understand that race mode will have the settings from N, which in my case is mostly gearbox, throttle response (I don't have adaptive suspension). This raised some questions I hope some of you will help me with:

1. Can a tuner peddle overcome the shortcoming of having a more aggressive peddle response. I like the throttle response in D mode, so having that option would be optimal
2. Will D function as it always have, or will that be the same a N after reprogramming ?
3. If I run automatic gear box in race, will it shift like it does in N mode ? Or is paddles the only way to go in race mode ?

I have already tuned my car with Celtic tuning so going the EC route were they switch the maps is to much hassle/money for me.

1. Yes, a peddle tuner will help with that.
2/3. A, N, D, and R will all use N for the ECM mode, but gearing will be the same for A=A, N=N, D=D. Race will use N. If I remember correctly.

You will be using whatever tune Celtic put in N.

 

Everything except the ECM understands race. With race mod, the gas pedal map uses N all the time.
In A mode - ECM = A, Gearbox = A, Steering = A, Brakes = A, AWD = A, Dampers = A
In N mode - ECM = N, Gearbox = N, Steering = N, Brakes = N, AWD = N, Dampers = N
In D mode - ECM = D, Gearbox = D, Steering = D, Brakes = D, AWD = D, Dampers = D
In R mode - ECM = N, Gearbox = R, Steering = R, Brakes = R, AWD = R, Dampers = R

 

This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

Here is a Youtube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!

The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):

1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
   1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
   1. The MES site has recommendations.
   2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
   1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
   2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
4. For 2018 + Giulia's (manufacture date roughly after February 2018) it is very likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM).
   1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
   2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses. View attachment 95626
   3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
   4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
   5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
   6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
   7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.

Now for options!

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)

1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
   1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
   2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
   3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.

Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)

1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though .
2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
   1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
   2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. View attachment 90482
   3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part). View attachment 90483
   4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
   5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
   6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow). View attachment 90480
   7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
3. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.

You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch (Needs modification):

• Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
• Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer​	C&K
Series​	HDP
Circuit​	SPST-NO
Switch Function​	Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)​	1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC​	5V
Actuator Type​	Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type​	Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style​	Gull Wing
Features​	Board Guide
Pretravel​	0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature​	-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position​	0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0

Manufacturer	TE Connectivity Passive Product
Series	RP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging	Cut Tape (CT)
Part Status	Active
Resistance	147 Ohms
Tolerance	±0.1%
Power (Watts)	0.25W, 1/4W
Composition	Thin Film
Temperature Coefficient	±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature	-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case	0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package	0805
Size / Dimension	0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)	0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations	2

Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:

1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
2. Click Connect
3. If older than MES version 4.5:
   1. To enter PROXI configuration, hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
   2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
   3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
   4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is )
4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
   1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
   2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
   3. Choose one and click OK
5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
8. Disconnect from the Body module
9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
16. Start vehicle
17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
18. Turn off vehicle again
19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)

• ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
• A = A in ECM/BCM
• N = N in ECM/BCM
• D = D in ECM/BCM
• R = No change

Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)

• ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
• A = N in ECM
• A = A in BCM
• N = N in ECM
• N = N in BCM
• D = N in ECM
• D = D in BCM
• Race Mode =
  • Race mode is indicated
  • Larger speed indication in center display
  • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
  • N in ECM
  • D in BCM
  • ? in TCM
  • Disables FCW
  • Disables ASC/TCS

Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)

• ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
• A = N in ECM
• A = A in BCM
• N = N in ECM
• N = N in BCM
• D = N in ECM
• D = D in BCM
• ASC/TSC off mode =
  • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
  • N in ECM
  • D in BCM
  • ? in TCM
  • Disables FCW
  • Disables ASC/TCS

CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:

1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
   1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.

KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

• Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
• Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
• Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
  • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
• Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.

So I totally watched the video 10x, and “read” your thread. Went through the process with Type3 and it never allowed race mode to work. Only showed the txt/ecs on D but nothing for Race. Finally, I stepped away(after more frustration than cheaters in MW) went back and re-read your thread, chose Type2, and BOOM, Race mode is now officially engaged! Thank you so much for the video and walk through! Keep up the work man! 👊🏾

 

Does this still work on 2021? I’m trading in my 2018. Will I need a monostable switch or will my 2018 QV switch work?

 

I have an MY19 with the new switch and it works without changing the switch at all. 😉

 

Hello!
My first post in this great forum! I have read this tread from the beginning and have the DNA-R selector installed in my Giulia Q4 Veloce born in May 2017. I also have the odometer flashing but no other visible warnings. Car starts and runs great and really fun on the snow!

Can anybody confirm that it is the DTCM module that needs to be updated at alfa workshop?
In my case, as you can see in attached printout from MES, it seems that the error is in the BCM?
Or is the error set in BCM because DTCM is "offline"?

I will go to my alfa workshop here in Sweden next week to get a used LS-D installed from a wrecked Q4 that had performance pack. So I believe I will be one of few with a Q4 with LS-D but without dynamic dampers but with Eibach Prokit lowering springs.
Hopefully I can get the DTCM module updated at the same time and no issue with flashing odometer.

 

@Don Tomaso in "CAN Setup/PROXI" you'll find list of modules and their status whether they failed or passed proxi and "online" status.
From my experience DTCM with SW 0401 will fail race mod and needs update.

 

And that SW version for DTCM module should be
M0045027.01-21- M0110265-0501
Intended for 2018-2019 yearmodel.

Found it in another tread. Would be great if first post in this tread is updated with this info.

 

I just wanted to give my feedback.

I did the install on my car and it works great. I have a 2019 model and I changed the RDNA selector and did the reprogramming to type 3. I did try type 2 but that did not work on my car.

Overall very happy with the result

 

Has anyone got the shift lights to work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

They may technically work its just the qv redline is much higher than our diesel like 5800rpm redline so theyd never have the chance to activate on our cars