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How to enable "Race" mode on non-QV 2017-2019

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451K views 1.1K replies 157 participants last post by  Smug  
#1 · (Edited)
This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

NOTE: 2020+ with the monostable DNA selector (the one that always reverts to N) does not require a replacement DNA+R dial. All that is needed is the SGW bypass, MES, blue and grey cables, and USB OBD adapter.

Here is a YouTube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!



The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):
  1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
    1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
  2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
    1. The MES site has recommendations.
    2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
  3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
    1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
    2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
  4. For 2018 + Giulia's (U.S. date of manufacture after February 1st 2018, EU after early April 2018) it is likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM) that prevents unauthorized writing to the vehicles many modules. You need a bypass device.
    1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
    2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses.
      95626
    3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
    4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
    5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
    6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
    7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.
Now for options!

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have. (Thanks, @shpuncik for the info)

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)
  1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
    1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
    2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
    3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.
Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)
  1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though :p.
  2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
    1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
    2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. 90482
    3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part).
      90483
    4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
    5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
    6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow).
      Image
    7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
    8. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.
You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch info for DIY option #1 above:
  • Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
  • Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer
C&K
Series
HDP
Circuit
SPST-NO
Switch Function
Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)
1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC
5V
Actuator Type
Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type
Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style
Gull Wing
Features
Board Guide
Pretravel
0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature
-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position
0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0
ManufacturerTE Connectivity Passive Product
SeriesRP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging Cut Tape (CT)
Part StatusActive
Resistance147 Ohms
Tolerance±0.1%
Power (Watts)0.25W, 1/4W
CompositionThin Film
Temperature Coefficient±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package0805
Size / Dimension0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations2


Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:
  1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
  2. Click Connect
  3. If older than MES version 4.5:
    1. To enter PROXI configuration, go to the Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
    2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
    3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
    4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is :p)
  4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
    1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
    2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
    3. Choose one and click OK
  5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
  6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
  7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
  8. Disconnect from the Body module
  9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
  10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
  11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
  12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
  13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
  14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
  15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
  16. Start vehicle
  17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
  18. Turn off vehicle again
  19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear
WARNING: If you are unable to successfully complete a PROXI alignment, potentially due to outdated CDCM or other module(s), there is a chance that it will leave you in a sort of hidden limp mode. See @Drew 's post HERE where his flashing odometer was more than just a visual annoyance.

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)

  • ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
  • A = A in ECM/BCM
  • N = N in ECM/BCM
  • D = D in ECM/BCM
  • R = No change
Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • Race Mode =
    • Race mode is indicated
    • Larger speed indication in center display
    • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • ASC/TSC off mode =
    • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:
  1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
  2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
  3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
    1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.
KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

  • Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
  • Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
  • Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
    • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
  • Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.
 
#362 ·
19"x8.5"?
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#366 ·
Wow, that 255 is a size too wide, typically for an 8" wide wheel. Pics? Are they a narrow tire?
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#367 · (Edited)
Hey guys, I saw on the Italian forum a discussion that there are people who can enable RACE mode without losing the pedal maps. They are located in Italy, I contacted them and they confirmed to me that they can enable Race mode without losing the pedal maps but I live in Bulgaria so I won't be going to Italy just for that. So I guess it's possible to enable full Race mode with pedal maps and everything but we just don't know how. The guys are called Eng-Custom. They have a webpage and a Facebook page.

Any ideas on how we might figure out what they're doing? As far as I know, they own Leonardo and wiTECH and they're not using MES. But that's just from the discussion on the Italian forum and might be wrong.
 
#369 ·
They have a website, maybe one of our Italian speaking members could contact them to see if their solution can be exported in some form? I think @Alfissimo specializes in delivering European goodies to the USA market; I dunno about Bulgaria. Alternatively maybe @toby@eurocompulsion could license whatever it is that they are doing and add it to their tune? For making Race mod work right, I would even drive the 500 miles (one way) to San Diego if necessary.


When in race mode and the dash color goes from red to yellow, the tach on both sides of the speedometer supposed to be functional?
My car has only one tachometer. What are you asking about?
 
#371 · (Edited)
I think there was a general conclusion in this thread that the QV type shift indicators do not work on the 4 cylinder models.
What I really notice with race mode in my Q4 with PP:

Hard suspension keeps car flatter in turns.
Manual shifts are super fast.
Brake pedal effort is increased making modulation easier.
G meter shows acceleration values.

Stopping distance seems to be reduced.

Notable downsides include:
PCM always in N (all modes). Negatively affects max MPG for "highway cruising".
Temperature display not active in Race mode. Don't know when slowing down is advised as the temps drop on the mountain pass*.
Clock display not active in Race mode. How am I supposed to time my run??? A stopwatch function would be a big plus.

* There was fresh snow on Sonora Pass last Friday. One really needs to slow down before the road is that obviously hazardous.
 
#376 ·
I don’t feel any difference in suspension behavior/stiffness in race(Type3)/D/N/A. That was true even before I did any modifications. Tried different speeds, surfaces, Autocross- nothing. Regardless, handling and ride is great.
 
#377 ·
Type 2 you can really feel the difference in race mode. The rears go real full stiff and fronts real full loose. Its immediately noticeable. Regular mode and type 3 mode i agree the difference between dynamic and soft is much less noticeable
 
#378 ·
Unless people disagree, I'm going to update the original post with the info provided by @bhvrdr . It's laid out better than how I have it and is more complete. Seems accurate too, of course.

Type 3 (DNA/Sport)
A Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Active Efficiency
-Suspension - Soft
-ESC/TC - Regular
...
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#379 ·
Ok did some more controlled conditions testing today and this is what i found...



Type 3 (DNA/Sport)
A Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Active Efficiency
-Steering - Light
-Suspension - Soft
-ESC/TC - Regular

N Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Natural
-Steering - Light
-Suspension - Soft
-ESC/TC - Regular

D Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Dynamic
-Steering - Sport
-Suspension - Dynamic (pressing button gives Soft)
-ESC/TC - Dynamic

R Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Dynamic
-Steering - Sport
-Suspension - Dynamic (pressing button gives Soft)
-ESC/TC - Disabled (full donuts allowed)

Type 2 (DNA/Race)

A Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Active Efficiency
-Steering - Light
-Suspension - Soft
-ESC/TC - Regular

N Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Natural
-Steering - Light
-Suspension - Soft
-ESC/TC - Regular

D Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Dynamic
-Steering - Sport
-Suspension - Dynamic (pressing button gives Soft)
-ESC/TC - Dynamic

R Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Dynamic
-Steering - Sport
-Suspension - Full Soft Front/ Full Stiff Rear (UNSTABLE) - (pressing button gives Dynamic aka "mid damper")
-ESC/TC - Disabled (full donuts allowed)

Let me know if this is what you all have found.
 
#381 ·
Thank you for the video. but it doesn’t work for me (I did exactly according to the instructions - and everything worked out. and even in position D the icons appeared on the left of the screen. but moving the puck to the race position does nothing. neither the inscription on the puck lights up and no icons appear on the dashboard shutdown of stabilization systems. what to do?
 
#383 · (Edited)
Yes of course. I already think - maybe something is wrong with the switch itself. although it was bought new
more thoughts - I have a car 2017 from America, but I changed the region to Ukraine to load maps of Europe ... although I don’t think that it could somehow affect
 
#389 ·
Has anyone modded the switch to swap the ring with the text on it so it doesn't show RACE?

Second hand switches are hard to come by in Australia but i like the idea of a stealth type RACE mode in order to avoid questions at service or remove temptation by valet etc.
 
#390 ·
I believe they are a direct swap, as long as you can figure out how to disassemble them.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#395 ·
Totally off subject, but great original post JeFizz. The vid came up randomly on my watch next list. You did a great job putting those steps together for everyone. Much appreciated... now I jsut gotta contemplate if this is a risk to the warranty or not.
 
#396 ·
I don't want to be accused of swaying you one direction or another but i contemplated the same and came up with....

Its not flashing the ecu. We all know as soon as you put a performance flash on the ecu the powertrain warranty is likely gone even if you flash back to stock. All the flash info is stored.

This on the other hand makes no modification to the performance code and will not show as a flash of the ecu. Its simply modifying options already in the ecu.

I figure at best i could simply put the setting back to non race mode with mes or at worst i could argue that there was no performance change to power output that would impact drivetrain longevity.

Mike
 
#397 · (Edited)
Once you experience the first tail out slide all other considerations are out the window :)

I have a related question: To proxi a reprogrammed CDCM (to QV spec), can I use Multiscan or WiTech is needed?
 
#399 ·
I wrote above that I did not succeed with the original DND Sport switch.
But the problem was solved - everything worked after the car was updated: the car was 2017 and has not been updated for a long time (the car is from America, I am in Ukraine) - almost everything was updated with the original American Witech - even the graphics of the instrument panel. The update of which block affected the problem, I don't know (
 
#400 ·
I wrote above that I did not succeed with the original DND Sport switch.
But the problem was solved - everything worked after the car was updated: the car was 2017 and has not been updated for a long time (the car is from America, I am in Ukraine) - almost everything was updated with the original American Witech - even the graphics of the instrument panel. The update of which block affected the problem, I don't know (
That's very good news Maks! Glad that you were able to get it working. Have fun this winter!
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#404 ·
A couple of pointers from my MY 2017 install this weekend:

  • Don't trust the weatherman. He said a nice cool and overcast 90 degrees but the monsoon missed and it was 110 instead.
  • The port on my PC didn't work (others mentioned they had the same prob too). You can transfer MES once a month, so I moved the software to my kids computer and it worked fine.
  • On WIN10, make sure to 'View Hidden Folder' to see your ports (non-tech savvy people like me might have a hard time finding this).
  • The latency settings changed back from 1 occasionally. If you can't connect for some reason, check there.
  • Put a level down before starting! The check steering angle didn't work because a part of my garage floor had sunk in.
  • FYI, the error message for the floor not being level is this: Failed to Execute: Incorrect conditions to run this test (I didn't see this in the thread earlier, but I may have missed it).
  • If you're taking the steering wheel / stalks (SCCM) off, the shop manual warns that these can be damaged easily. Be careful with it.
  • Type 3 did not work as mentioned.
  • Disconnecting the battery shorty after resetting the proxy and clearing everything caused the warning lights to return. Not sure why.
 
#405 ·
Hello everyone.

After purchasing a RACE DNA knob I attempted to install it on a 2016 Giuia 2.2d.
Then through Multiecuscan, Dynamic Control Selector was changed to Type3 and then proxy alignment was carried out as usual.

However everything seems to be working just like before.
That means that I can interchange between all DNA modes but nothing happens when switching to RACE.

Things to note;
1. When enterting again the body module on MES, Type3 is selected (it seems like the change was saved)
2. When switching to D mode the indications that should have appeared on the left side of the infotainment screen, do NOT appear.

Anyone had this issue before?
 
#407 ·
Hold it in the Race position until it changes. Took me a bit to figure that one out on my own.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#409 ·
Jason, does the reprogrammed CDCM (active suspension controller) that you are selling needs to be proxied (how do I spell that)? If yes, can it be done with Multiscan?
 
#418 ·
I am pretty sure that you have to run a proxy alignment after you change any CANBUS node. The full proxy information includes the unique identifiers for each node.
What you do not have to do with just the CDCM swap is any kind of proxy byte modification or ABS calibration.