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ELM327 should be set as high speed in MES.
if you suspect it's ELM327 problem due to overheating try this - start doing your proxi alignment, when it says body node was "success" and jumps to another node disconnect your ELM and do not connect it back until it asks for grey adapter.
Overheating solved with pause at cable change, but Airbag continue to fail 😔
 
Hi all! Sorry if my question is stupid, but today I tried to enable race mode on an MY17 Giulia 2.2D Manual6 car. But no luck. Looks like everything is fine, bunt won't work. I tried to search, but I can't find any relevant. Somebody can help me? What do I wrong? I done this many cars but all is 2.0T Gasoline and ZF8HP.

Thank You!
Best
 
Discussion starter · #865 ·
Hi all! Sorry if my question is stupid, but today I tried to enable race mode on an MY17 Giulia 2.2D Manual6 car. But no luck. Looks like everything is fine, bunt won't work. I tried to search, but I can't find any relevant. Somebody can help me? What do I wrong? I done this many cars but all is 2.0T Gasoline and ZF8HP.

Thank You!
Best
Did you hold it in the Race position for a few seconds?
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
q4 in south jersey need help someone who knows how to use mes well. my cars a 2017 keeps failing for drive train node out of range. I can get race mode to work but my obd is flashing. ive tried like 30 proxy alignments and even went to my alfa dealer, and even they cant get it to stop flashing with my race mode still working. going to be sending my ecu out to eurocompulsion soon so they can update my tune but i want to get the obd flash fixed before i do so. thanks in advance anyone who can help.
 
q4 in south jersey need help someone who knows how to use mes well. my cars a 2017 keeps failing for drive train node out of range. I can get race mode to work but my obd is flashing. ive tried like 30 proxy alignments and even went to my alfa dealer, and even they cant get it to stop flashing with my race mode still working. going to be sending my ecu out to eurocompulsion soon so they can update my tune but i want to get the obd flash fixed before i do so. thanks in advance anyone who can help.
most likely old DTCM software. get updated it at dealer and then proceed with proxi
 
This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

NOTE: 2020+ with the monostable DNA selector (the one that always reverts to N) does not require a replacement DNA+R dial. All that is needed is the SGW bypass, MES, blue and grey cables, and USB OBD adapter.

Here is a YouTube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!



The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):
  1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
    1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
  2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
    1. The MES site has recommendations.
    2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
  3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
    1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
    2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
  4. For 2018 + Giulia's (U.S. date of manufacture after February 1st 2018, EU after early April 2018) it is likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM) that prevents unauthorized writing to the vehicles many modules. You need a bypass device.
    1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
    2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses. View attachment 95626
    3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
    4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
    5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
    6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
    7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.
Now for options!

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have. (Thanks, @shpuncik for the info)

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)
  1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
    1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
    2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
    3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.
Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)
  1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though :p.
  2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
    1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
    2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. View attachment 90482
    3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part). View attachment 90483
    4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
    5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
    6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow). View attachment 90480
    7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
    8. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.
You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch info for DIY option #1 above:
  • Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
  • Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer
C&K
Series
HDP
Circuit
SPST-NO
Switch Function
Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)
1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC
5V
Actuator Type
Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type
Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style
Gull Wing
Features
Board Guide
Pretravel
0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature
-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position
0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0
ManufacturerTE Connectivity Passive Product
SeriesRP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging Cut Tape (CT)
Part StatusActive
Resistance147 Ohms
Tolerance±0.1%
Power (Watts)0.25W, 1/4W
CompositionThin Film
Temperature Coefficient±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package0805
Size / Dimension0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations2


Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:
  1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
  2. Click Connect
  3. If older than MES version 4.5:
    1. To enter PROXI configuration, go to the Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
    2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
    3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
    4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is :p)
  4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
    1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
    2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
    3. Choose one and click OK
  5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
  6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
  7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
  8. Disconnect from the Body module
  9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
  10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
  11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
  12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
  13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
  14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
  15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
  16. Start vehicle
  17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
  18. Turn off vehicle again
  19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear
WARNING: If you are unable to successfully complete a PROXI alignment, potentially due to outdated CDCM or other module(s), there is a chance that it will leave you in a sort of hidden limp mode. See @Drew 's post HERE where his flashing odometer was more than just a visual annoyance.

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)

  • ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
  • A = A in ECM/BCM
  • N = N in ECM/BCM
  • D = D in ECM/BCM
  • R = No change
Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • Race Mode =
    • Race mode is indicated
    • Larger speed indication in center display
    • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • ASC/TSC off mode =
    • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:
  1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
  2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
  3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
    1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.
KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

  • Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
  • Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
  • Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
    • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
  • Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.
HI,
I HAVE THE 200BHP MODEL. WILL THIS UPGRADE MAKE IT 280?
 
Do you know how can I upgrade to a veloce software? Can I use this software for the job?
Visit a tuner, they can do it for you. Unless you have very specific hardware and tools you can not do this yourself
 
A quick question regarding Type 3. Aside from the documented differences from Type 2 (screen display, suspension settings, etc), does Type 3 do anything else beyond altering FCW and ESP?

I'm curious if there are any changes to the shift programs.
 
Discussion starter · #878 ·
A quick question regarding Type 3. Aside from the documented differences from Type 2 (screen display, suspension settings, etc), does Type 3 do anything else beyond altering FCW and ESP?

I'm curious if there are any changes to the shift programs.
I'm honestly thinking that Type 3 is more like a Dynamic+. I was running it for a while to see how it behaved and felt as though shifts were no different, and TCS/ESC were still fully functional. After switching back to Type 2, I feel as though shifts are a tad snappier, and TCS/ESC are comparable to R on the QV... not that I have experience in one.

IIRC, type 3 still allows auto start stop to engage, but yeah, FCW is off and IMO is the most important option as it saves you messing with the Infotainment to turn it off, temporarily.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
I'm honestly thinking that Type 3 is more like a Dynamic+. I was running it for a while to see how it behaved and felt as though shifts were no different, and TCS/ESC were still fully functional. After switching back to Type 2, I feel as though shifts are a tad snappier, and TCS/ESC are comparable to R on the QV... not that I have experience in one.

IIRC, type 3 still allows auto start stop to engage, but yeah, FCW is off and IMO is the most important option as it saves you messing with the Infotainment to turn it off, temporarily.

Hmm, interesting. Changes to the shift programs was really just a curiosity. I have a performance pack Q2, but really have no need for even stiffer dampers at this time - so I had planned on just running with Type 3.

From reading through the thread, I was under the impression that Type 3 would still effect a change with TCS/ESC. That's disappointing to hear that it does not.
 
Discussion starter · #880 ·
Hmm, interesting. Changes to the shift programs was really just a curiosity. I have a performance pack Q2, but really have no need for even stiffer dampers at this time - so I had planned on just running with Type 3.

From reading through the thread, I was under the impression that Type 3 would still effect a change with TCS/ESC. That's disappointing to hear that it does not.
Well, you have the ability to test it out for yourself. I may be wrong... Find a wet parking lot, try to do a burnout in each mode and see if there is a difference.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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