Is there a knighthood system here so all the participants in this thread can be duly rewarded? I can't express how important it is to me that you got this to work, it's such a big deal to me so a big thank you to everyone involved.

I can confirm the stock monostable switch worked fine in my MY2019 and the SGW bypass was required which worked straight out of the box - Alfissimo supplies them in the USA I believe.
The SGW is on the left of the steering column in RHD cars rather than the right as per the guides.

The only bump in the road is suddenly I have a full fuel tank - a one digit increase on the filler gauge. I'm assuming a fill up to match the gauge is the thing to do?

 

Is there a knighthood system here so all the participants in this thread can be duly rewarded? I can't express how important it is to me that you got this to work, it's such a big deal to me so a big thank you to everyone involved.

View attachment 117402

I can confirm the stock monostable switch worked fine in my MY2019 and the SGW bypass was required which worked straight out of the box - Alfissimo supplies them in the USA I believe.
The SGW is on the left of the steering column in LHD cars rather than the right as per the guides.

The only bump in the road is suddenly I have a full fuel tank - a one digit increase on the filler gauge. I'm assuming a fill up to match the gauge is the thing to do?

Mine is to the right of the steering column.

 

New observation...

Race mode is slower than Dynamic. I was at the track this past weekend where I was able to do repeated runs on a drag strip. After 8 0-60 runs comparing Race, Dynamic, AC on, AC off, I have come to the following conclusion:

AC does stay on at full throttle. This was more of a hmmmm, I wonder if it disengages at WOT. It doesn't, I lost .2 - .3 seconds 0-60 with it on.
Race mode is about .1 - .2 slower than Dynamic.
Dynamic got me a 4.99
1.1G launch. oof.

Around the road course Dynamic felt better than Race mode. Race mode is really nice for quick race prep (disabling FCW, parking sensors, etc.), but Dynamic felt faster. I really wish there was a way to have a real Race mode. ugh.

 

This is interesting. I wonder what parameters are being lost? Are you tuned? I’ve been off tte forums for a while and can’t remember. Jb4 maybe?

 

For me in Race made, 0-60 the shifts from 1-2-3 in D feel a little delayed, like it hits redline and hesitates before shifting? Other than that, it is great for the track. I think Race mode is best for road course especially with the stiffer suspension settings. Of course, I am always manual shifting while on track anyways.

 

True, I don't have adaptive suspension, but do use manual shift.

 

Any tips for removing the SGW plugs? I got very lucky removing them the first time, now I'm struggling to get them out of the bypass module which ought to be easier with the better access.

I am pushing the little clip in and trying to work the plug loose but no joy so far, there must be a trick to this....

 

Push retention clip in and hold, push the plug in to the bypass and then pull it out. Maybe it's catching a bit.

 

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have.

Hey. Great write up! I also have a 2021 Stelvio Ti Lusso that I installed the paddle shifters in ( Added Paddle Shifters to my 2021 Verde Visconti Stelvio... ), so I'm familiar with how to use MECU and the SGW bypass.

Been thinking about installing race mode and found your write up here.

So to be clear, I can keep and use the monostable selector that's already in my Stelvio? Even though there's no "R" position? I mean, it makes sense that one more twist up from "D" would activate race-mode if enabled, but I want to be sure.

I should be able to just go into MECU, toggle the setting, run the proxy alignment and have race-mode without changing out the selector?

Finally, in your video you mention Type-2 is race-mode option and ECS ON! Does this mean on my Giulia QV I can change this setting to type-2 and have ECS on with race mode? I still get a bit nervous on track in race mode due to ECS being off 😂 Would be helpful to have ECS on along with race mode since everything else about race mode in my QV is better!

Thanks.

 

Not my video, so I'm not sure what was said... I never remember what I use, honestly. I don't believe that any Race mode has ESC. I would assume that all nannies are off in Race, just to be safe.

Yeah, from what someone told me, the monostable DNA selector is good to go for race mode. Like you said, just one more turn.

Not sure if I posted it, but Race mode is a tad slower than Dynamic, but more convenient.

 

Only way to know with more certainty is to do 5 runs 40-100 and 5 runs 40-100 im each mode though. Make sure its not just a normal deviation

 

I get you, and I will try to do that sometime, but to be honest the runs were really close to one another, only a couple of minutes apart. I started with AC on, then off, then Race, then Dynamic. You'd think that the heat soak would have made it worse, but it just kept getting better.

 

Is AC an acronym for something?

 

In case this is not a joke...

Air Conditioner 😂

 

Don't know if this theory is true, been told that having the heat on, drops the temps in the engine bay. Of course this all depends where the condenser is for the HVAC. I could see this hold ground because essentially it works similar to mini split HVAC systems.

 

I would say that more than likely it helps drop temps. Back in the day when I had a clapped out Thunderbird with a clogged radiator, I would turn the heat on to keep the temps under the boiling point.

 

Does anyone get a whirring noise just after the rear wheels break traction in race mode?

I get a noise that seems to wind up when the wheels spin up, then once traction is back the whirring noise gradually winds down and disappears.

Its very strange because its independent of the engine speed, or the wheel speed. It only happens with TC disabled. I have no idea what it is, it just sounds like a flywheel that gets energised under wheelspin, and then winds down gradually. It continues to make the same sound whether I lift off the power, or shift up on power.

I had a look at @bhvrdr tire test video and there is no sign of any strange noise there at all when he is lighting up the rears - he has the q2 LSD I believe, I'm on an open diff...

 

Does anyone get a whirring noise just after the rear wheels break traction?

I get a noise that seems to wind up when the wheels spin up, then once traction is back the whirring noise gradually winds down and disappears.

Its very strange because its independent of the engine speed, or the wheel speed. It only happens with TC disabled. I have no idea what it is, it just sounds like a flywheel that gets energised under wheelspin, and then winds down gradually. It continues to make the same sound whether I lift off the power, or shift up on power.

OnIy thing that comes to mind is the turbo, but that would always occur.

 

Whirring noise is the front diff driving the front wheels on a Q4, when the FWD transfer case engages. In loose rear end situations of all types, even in non Race mode, I hear it on mine. When I hammer Race mode coming out of a turn (in the wet, for sure) it is most evident.

Very pronounced on a snowy day in all modes, particularly if you have a stock exhaust.

 

Interesting thanks, I'm RWD but it sounds quite similar in nature - does yours sound like a bearing that has spun up really fast?

 

So if I have the non-monostable DNA selector I am out of luck? I would be forced to buy the QV switch for the 2018?

 

Yes, like the first post indicates; you either buy the QV non-monostable switch or you modify like I did.

 

I have the QV r-dna in a Ti sport and yes when you shut the car off it will revert to D

 

Hello.

I have a quick question.

Has anyone successfully tried and replaced physically the DTCM module from 401 to 501/503 with newer part number ?

I have a DTCM module ver401 that cannot be updated by the dealer and I am considering a replacement.

All the best.

 

Why can it not be updated? Before I did the R-dna upgrade and the adaptive suspension ecu the Dodge dealer did the update from 401 to 501 while he was doing an oil change.

 

Thanks.
You have got newer part number 55283791, maybe that's way You qualified for the update. Possible that they could not update older ones.

Anyone physically changed older Q4 Transfer Module 55279527 for the newer part ?

 

The DTCM is not just a circuit board, it includes the electric motor and worm gear that drives the transfer clutch. The service manual that I have does not have a DTCM R&R procedure; only the full transfer unit.

Wanted to bring this up because I didn’t see anything while looking, is it official that in race the performance perameters are set to follow the N path and not the D path? If so, is there any way to override this? It would be a shame to have no traction control and not have the car’a full power….

The only way I know to manage this is to get a tune that puts full power in N mode. Eurocompulsion and I think Alfissimo can provide it.

 

Wanted to bring this up because I didn’t see anything while looking, is it official that in race the performance perameters are set to follow the N path and not the D path? If so, is there any way to override this? It would be a shame to have no traction control and not have the car’a full power….

 

Has any one else found that fitting the early Race DNA switch means it’s not straight ….. I can’t install it like this it looks stupid! Or do I have a poorly made switch.
thanks

 

Has any one else found that fitting the early Race DNA switch means it’s not straight ….. I can’t install it like this it looks stupid! Or do I have a poorly made switch.
thanks

Perhaps compare with a RHD QV? No such issue on my polite side drive Q4.

 

Bad switch

 

I have the older DTCM on my '17 as well. I've been driving with a blinking odometer for nearly a year now.

 

Drew, do you know if your front wheels ever get power?

 

[SIG45]
Name=EOL 88
SIG00=11;Steering_Ratio_Rack_Pinion_Type;0;2;0;0;
TAB00=0;Type 1;
SIG01=11;Gear_Box_Paddles;2;1;0;0;
TAB01=0;Absent;1;Present;
SIG02=11;Track_Width_Variant;3;2;0;0;
TAB02=0;Invalid;1;1540 [952] [Not Used];2;1606 [949] [Not Used];3;1680 [M240];
SIG03=11;Drive_Style_Selector;5;2;0;0;
TAB03=0;Absent;1;DNA;2;DNA + Race;3;Not Used;
SIG04=11;DST_Presence;7;1;0;0;
TAB04=0;@NotUsed;-1;Invalid;
Signals=5

 

?

 

Finally Got it installed ! Confirmed on GDX for EMEA 200HP some issues occurred caused by tuned ECM however we’ve made it I really appreciate for your help guys ！

 

You may be happier with the performance of the other mode, I am. Although it lacks the larger speedometer display.

 

@stephanV6 what software are you using to get this raw data?

 

It was actually quite some work to get it to this stage. This is a disassembly/decompilation in ghidra.
With a lot of work in ghidra and importing the damos/a2l which floats around you can make quite some sense of what the ecu is doing.
But 8MB flash is hell a lot of code if decompiled.

 

I'm getting this error when
attempting to connect Multiecuscan to MY2022. Any suggestions?

This is the one I'm using ordered kit from Afissimo. ( BTW SGW is connected. )

 

Follow the instructions in the MES manual for COM port settings.

 

Hello, working on installing Race mode. My selector is installed. I have all the cables and even purchased a key for the MultiScan. Now when I plug into my OBD with the correct cable and try to connect I get and error stating I'm and not using the right cable. (I 100% am using the right cable) Any idea how to fix the issue?

 

Look above at what @JeFizz posted in post #801. Have you checked the port settings? Do you have the SGW bypass installed?
Inexpensive ELM modules have a known issue. Have you read the instructions in the MES pdf?

^^^

 

Look above at what @JeFizz posted in post #801. Have you checked the port settings? Do you have the SGW bypass installed?
Inexpensive ELM modules have a known issue. Have you read the instructions in the MES pdf?

 

Hey everyone -

I've read through much of this thread but not the entirety of it so I guess I'll just ask the questions I have:

I have a 2018 Q4 Ti with adaptive dampers. I just really want to be able to disable traction control as I can feel it limiting me when I autocross and track. I've held off on ordering a race mode switch, since I heard with adaptive dampers it doesn't work right due to the suspension getting set to two different modes in race mode unless I pay more than I'd like for a cdcm reflash.

Someone earlier today told me that with adaptive suspension, you can install a race mode switch and set it to type 3 which will disable TC but not show any race mode graphics.

It also seems upon reading that I can still use Type 2, but I have to hit the adaptive suspension button afterwards. Does doing this set it to the same soft mode as N/A or does it set it to the "regular" stiff mode that D has available to it?

Does installing the switch and moving to either Type 2 or Type 3 cause issues in other modes? Is there any other adaptive suspension or traction control workaround? Does installing the switch to mode 2 or 3 disable paddle shifters in race? Just would love to unlock the full potential of my car. Lots of information to comb through here.

Thanks all.

 

I don't know how Type 2 responds to changing the adaptive settings. Type 3 does the same thing that Type 2 does... lessens traction and stability control interventions. Just like in the QV though, it does not completely disable them. Only way to completely disable the nannies, including ABS, is to use the Squadra Logger or by enabling Dyno / Rolling Road mode using MES (that's only a temporary setting btw).