[Eagle7]

Question for those who've upgraded to the P2 upgrade... when I installed the P1, I noticed a slight change in the sound of the car; the exhaust was a bit more growlier if that's a word. Does the P2 upgrade change the sound at all, either tone or volume?

 

[emdalziel]

Question for those who've upgraded to the P2 upgrade... when I installed the P1, I noticed a slight change in the sound of the car; the exhaust was a bit more growlier if that's a word. Does the P2 upgrade change the sound at all, either tone or volume?

I haven't noticed any change between P1 and P2 with the sound in normal driving. Obviously P&B, which I didn't get, does. I haven't had the opportunity to drive it hard yet, but I have a track day on Friday next week.

 

[Krish]

Giulias with a manufacture date in 2018 (or after) have a software gateway that is a security firewall and prevents OBD-II (write?) access. At least this gateway exists for European Giulias manufactured in 2018, not sure about other markets.

How does EURO+DRIVE Tuning system work around this?

I see posts from people based in different countries including those in Europe/EU using the P1/P2 tune, so curious.

 

[Tony Bonanno]

Not a problem at all.

Yes, that is correct: Ph1=P1, Ph2=P2

There is no modified P1. I'll explain the differences:

-P1 map = P1 in D, improved stock in N, slightly improved stock in A

-P2 map = P2 in D, improved stock in N, slightly improved stock in A

-P2 dual map = P2 in D, P1 in N, slightly improved stock in A.

When P1 is placed in N mode for the P2 dual map, it drives about the same as P1 was when it was the primary map, and in D mode.

Hope that makes sense.

Good clarification Toby. I think that was helpful for a number of us. I was wondering if I had gone just with the P2 mode and not dual map, what my N mode would have been. Sounds like it would be the same as it was with my earlier P1 tune. I really like the dual map so far... and everything is working without a hiccup :smile2:..

 

[Tony Bonanno]

Toby said he can detune the P2 slightly for those who don't have an exhaust upgrade, but I believe the intake upgrade is required for P2. P1 doesn't require either although I highly recommend the intake. Their V2 intake just by itself noticeably improved the overall performance on my car. Adding the P1 made things even better. I'm waiting for the Remus axle-back exhaust I ordered to arrive, so I'll get whatever improvements that adds, then I'll get the P2 upgrade. The quality and effort of what the guys at EC put forth is top notch; one of the best aftermarket companies I've ever had the pleasure to do business with.

Intake upgrade not required as I don't have it (other than just a BMC replacement filter in stock intake). I do have the Corsa Exhaust though. Difference with the P2 tune is very noticeable and better, even without the intake upgrade. I think the intake upgrades are just recommended to realize maximum performance.

 

[racerchamp7]

Giulias with a manufacture date in 2018 (or after) have a software gateway that is a security firewall and prevents OBD-II (write?) access. At least this gateway exists for European Giulias manufactured in 2018, not sure about other markets.

How does EURO+DRIVE Tuning system work around this?

I see posts from people based in different countries including those in Europe/EU using the P1/P2 tune, so curious.

I too would like to hear an answer to this question since I was not aware of the SGW module until Krish mentioned it.

 

[rangerrick9211]

Is there any harm in flashing P2 without the equipment specified in the tune? I've been bugging EC about their exhaust mfg. runs! Looks like delivery is still a few weeks out. I have the intake. Just wondering if there would be harm in flashing now before the exhaust in installed.

 

[Racer Z]

Question for those who've upgraded to the P2 upgrade... when I installed the P1, I noticed a slight change in the sound of the car; the exhaust was a bit more growlier if that's a word. Does the P2 upgrade change the sound at all, either tone or volume?

I have the P2 (dual map) and stock exhaust. I went from stock tune to P2 without noticing ANY change in the exhaust note.

 

[Racer Z]

Is there any harm in flashing P2 without the equipment specified in the tune? I've been bugging EC about their exhaust mfg. runs! Looks like delivery is still a few weeks out. I have the intake. Just wondering if there would be harm in flashing now before the exhaust in installed.

Other than not being able to get the full potential of the new tune, probably not. Perhaps if you stayed on full throttle at near redline for an extended period of time.

I still have my stock exhaust with P2 and V2 intake. Went racing all weekend without issue. That's a lot of full throttle, high RPM driving. Of course it's equally hard on the brakes and tires, brake hard, turn, accelerate hard, repeat, repeat, repeat. My tires are beat near to death and I cooked my front pads, but the tune related area seems to have survived just fine.

 

[Boo2boy]

Giulias with a manufacture date in 2018 (or after) have a software gateway that is a security firewall and prevents OBD-II (write?) access. At least this gateway exists for European Giulias manufactured in 2018, not sure about other markets.

How does EURO+DRIVE Tuning system work around this?

I see posts from people based in different countries including those in Europe/EU using the P1/P2 tune, so curious.

I am having this issue right now. This affects FCA builds of 2/2018 and later, mine is 4/2018. I just received a bypass module to try to get around it. I purchase one designed for Chrysler/Jeep vehicles. The company said it should work but they haven’t tried it on a Giulia as they don’t have one on hand. Once the weather warms up I’ll give it a try with the P2 tune.

 

[JohnnyTheBeast]

uh-oh...

This last week with P2 Dual Map +P&B has been pretty uneventful.
I did take the car on a canyon run earlier this week (with only a minor hiccup that cleared away after a restart) and I drive it harder than most people on a regular basis, but it's been pretty solid and hasn't gone into limp mode since I last reported it.

Over the past few days, Traction Control has been kinda making its presence more and more pronounced.
By that, I mean that "DTC" seems to be working somewhat intermittently.
At the beginning of the week, I could lay down all the power with no major pullback from TC (except for when launching), but I noticed today that I would completely lose power when giving the car too much throttle at even like 30 mph.

Something just hasn't been feeling right...
I was being extra obnoxious with the pops and bangs tonight and was able to trigger the really hard limp mode again.

@toby@eurocompulsion After what I've experienced over this past week, I'm pretty sure that you guys probably just haven't pushed the car in a way that would bother it enough to go into limp mode.
I know you tried and said that the car was flawless and all but something is definitely up.

Strange note that is probably unrelated but worth mentioning, this happened not long after filling up, kinda like what happened with @Racer Z. I was driving all day, no problem, stopped for gas, limp mode about 5 miles later.

Anyways, I wanted to share these two videos with you guys.
First is from @Musaabo and is a perfect example of how the limp mode is most easily triggered (2nd gear / ~40mph).
Second is my car losing power just as it went into limp mode. I was doing the exact same thing as Musaab.

https://youtu.be/LV70VDKuqBM

https://youtu.be/cb-jlqSRCdM

(both videos are unlisted and can only be viewed through these links)

 

[lost1750GTV]

what I'm getting out of this is that guys with Q4 will see more benefit, because instead of traction control cutting the extra power, it will be transferred. so they won't have that "stepped on the gas and the power cut out' thing happening.
seems to me that working on something closer to a true R mode would be more beneficial at this point than increased states of tune.

 

[JohnnyTheBeast]

what I'm getting out of this is that guys with Q4 will see more benefit, because instead of traction control cutting the extra power, it will be transferred. so they won't have that "stepped on the gas and the power cut out' thing happening.
seems to me that working on something closer to a true R mode would be more beneficial at this point than increased states of tune.

It's kinda the opposite actually...

Guys with Q4 already have the power transfer to the front and most report that TC almost never intervenes during acceleration.
Guys with RWD constantly have a hard time finding traction, the wheels spin, and TC kicks in HARD.


I think myself and almost every other owner on this thread would agree with your last statement, that a "true R mode" would be more beneficial than added power, though.

 

[Engi_Nerd]

So quick question for you guys. I'm coming from the VW/Audi world, where you can flash the tune without the rev procedure. If something majorly mechanical went, as happened with a big batch of bad turbos, you could tow it home and flash it, before you took it to the dealer. But with this rev to flash procedure, it sounds like any mechanical failure that prevents you from revving out means you're bringing your tuned car to the dealer. Is this correct?

 

[chaadster]

what I'm getting out of this is that guys with Q4 will see more benefit, because instead of traction control cutting the extra power, it will be transferred. so they won't have that "stepped on the gas and the power cut out' thing happening.
seems to me that working on something closer to a true R mode would be more beneficial at this point than increased states of tune.

It's kinda the opposite actually...

Guys with Q4 already have the power transfer to the front and most report that TC almost never intervenes during acceleration.
Guys with RWD constantly have a hard time finding traction, the wheels spin, and TC kicks in HARD.


I think myself and almost every other owner on this thread would agree with your last statement, that a "true R mode" would be more beneficial than added power, though.

It looks to me like you and Lost are saying exactly the same thing.

 

[chaadster]

So quick question for you guys. I'm coming from the VW/Audi world, where you can flash the tune without the rev procedure. If something majorly mechanical went, as happened with a big batch of bad turbos, you could tow it home and flash it, before you took it to the dealer. But with this rev to flash procedure, it sounds like any mechanical failure that prevents you from revving out means you're bringing your tuned car to the dealer. Is this correct?

Oh, that's a good point. I was wary of the flash tune just for the fact of not having the opportunity to flash it back to stock were something bad to happen out on the road, and had not even considered the additional ramifications of possibly not even being able to flash back (if the car won't rev).

Alfa factory warranties are what, two years? At this point, we're two years in and haven't seen any proclivities towards catastrophic mechanical failures (except in GQs getting engines replaced), so probably the odds are in favor that it won't ever come to such a worst case scenario.

 

[JohnnyTheBeast]

It looks to me like you and Lost are saying exactly the same thing.

Hahaha Trueee

Sorry @lost1750GTV
Thought you meant that guys with Q4 would benefit most from DTC. :grin2:

 

[toby@eurocompulsion]

This last week with P2 Dual Map +P&B has been pretty uneventful.
I did take the car on a canyon run earlier this week (with only a minor hiccup that cleared away after a restart) and I drive it harder than most people on a regular basis, but it's been pretty solid and hasn't gone into limp mode since I last reported it.

Over the past few days, Traction Control has been kinda making its presence more and more pronounced.
By that, I mean that "DTC" seems to be working somewhat intermittently.
At the beginning of the week, I could lay down all the power with no major pullback from TC (except for when launching), but I noticed today that I would completely lose power when giving the car too much throttle at even like 30 mph.

Something just hasn't been feeling right...
I was being extra obnoxious with the pops and bangs tonight and was able to trigger the really hard limp mode again.

@toby@eurocompulsion After what I've experienced over this past week, I'm pretty sure that you guys probably just haven't pushed the car in a way that would bother it enough to go into limp mode.
I know you tried and said that the car was flawless and all but something is definitely up.

Strange note that is probably unrelated but worth mentioning, this happened not long after filling up, kinda like what happened with @Racer Z. I was driving all day, no problem, stopped for gas, limp mode about 5 miles later.

Anyways, I wanted to share these two videos with you guys.
First is from @Musaabo and is a perfect example of how the limp mode is most easily triggered (2nd gear / ~40mph).
Second is my car losing power just as it went into limp mode. I was doing the exact same thing as Musaab.

https://youtu.be/LV70VDKuqBM

https://youtu.be/cb-jlqSRCdM

(both videos are unlisted and can only be viewed through these links)

I noticed that the check engine light is flashing before the throttle light comes on in the 2nd video. Is that correct, and is this also the case/same conditions with the first video?

And yes, we have definitely driven the car in the same manner you are in the video (quite a lot actually, Jordan really likes his pops and bangs lol). I wasn't exaggerating when I said this before and during my previous experiment.

 

[beaups]

In my BMW tuning days it was pretty common to get misfires post-tune if the car wasn't perfect...we were replacing plugs every 8-10k and any inconsistencies or issues with coils or injectors would also expose themselves with the tune as well. Flashing CEL is misfire indicator so sounds pretty familiar.

 

[Alfa Philly]

So quick question for you guys. I'm coming from the VW/Audi world, where you can flash the tune without the rev procedure. If something majorly mechanical went, as happened with a big batch of bad turbos, you could tow it home and flash it, before you took it to the dealer. But with this rev to flash procedure, it sounds like any mechanical failure that prevents you from revving out means you're bringing your tuned car to the dealer. Is this correct?

Oh, that's a good point. I was wary of the flash tune just for the fact of not having the opportunity to flash it back to stock were something bad to happen out on the road, and had not even considered the additional ramifications of possibly not even being able to flash back (if the car won't rev).

Alfa factory warranties are what, two years? At this point, we're two years in and haven't seen any proclivities towards catastrophic mechanical failures (except in GQs getting engines replaced), so probably the odds are in favor that it won't ever come to such a worst case scenario.

If you mod or tune a car you should be prepared for any and all circumstances. IMO. You have to assume any time you alter an ECU in modern cars that it will be traceable and it most likely is even after flashback. It’s best to find that mechanic who is a Motörhead and slip him a $100 tip every time you take the car in for service and let him know you have a tune. Most likely it will save you. Just my opinion.