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DIY oil change Giulia Ti AWD

110K views 77 replies 29 participants last post by  IrishVkng  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Giulia Ti AWD oil change
September 13, 2017 - 4027 miles

My oil life monitor said another 151 days and 5595 miles until oil change needed. I take a lot of short 5 mile rides to work then back home. Maybe only a third of my miles are highway, perhaps not "severe service", but I was off yesterday so I thought I'd get to know the car better and change the oil. I'm saving my complimentary oil change service for closer to the 10000 mile mark.

Tools used
  1. T27 bit to use with cordless driver to remove screws that retain the engine belly pan
  2. T27 socket and 1/4” drive ratchet to reinstall the T27 screws by hand after the oil change
  3. 13 mm ratcheting combination wrench (GearWrench) to remove oil drain plug or slim ratchet and short socket
  4. 1/4” drive 13 mm 6-point socket and 1/4” drive torque wrench to tighten drain plug to 15 ft-lbs or 20 N-m.
  5. Oil filter removal tool - mine is similar to vise grip in function
  6. 0W-30 full synthetic oil that also meets European spec ACEA C2, C3 for exhaust system protection. Mobil 1, ESP (x1) 0W-30 meets spec as does Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30, the OEM oil.
  7. Mobil 1 oil filter M1-113A or the OEM Mopar MO-339 filter (OEM part no. 04892339AA).
  8. oil drain pan or graduated plastic bucket, paper towels, nitrile gloves; plastic bag, cardboard or newspapers for garage floor protection
  9. 20 Lynx Levelers (RV leveling blocks) to make ramps for front tires and thin camper ramps for rear tires to raise car 4.5 inches and makes job possible. (More lift would make it easier for belly pan removal and reinstallation)
  10. wheel chocks

Procedure
  1. Drive car to warm up oil to operating temperature.
  2. Raise car on a lift and make it safe, drive over pit, or drive up on suitable ramps. I used 10 Lynx levels per side for front ramps (4.5”) and slim camper leveling ramps for 3” or so rear wheel lift. Put transmission in Park, set parking brake, chock rear wheels. Safety first!
  3. Remove the engine belly pan by removing 19 fasteners (per Alfa Romeo diagram) using T27 bit and cordless impact driver or with hand tools.
  4. Remove the seven screws in front of the belly pan (see diagram) and work toward the rear, ending with two screws on each side near the wheel arch trim.
  5. To remove pan, slide it toward front of car a couple inches to help disengage it from the edges of the wheel arch covers, lower the rear edge of the pan, then slide pan toward the rear of the car to disengage it from the front air dam lip where it was held by 7 of the 19 total screws.
  6. Remove oil drain plug with 13 mm gear wrench ratcheting combination wrench or slim socket wrench and short/non-deepwell socket. Examine red rubbery washer, replace if torn, worn, thin or looks funny (about $9 from AR dealer). Mine was fine.
  7. When oil flow slows, remove the filter using oil filter wrench. Be sure the gasket comes with it.
  8. After all oil is drained, replace the drain plug, torque to 20 N-m (15 ft-lb) using 1/4” drive torque wrench and 6 point 1/4” drive socket.
  9. Install new oil filter, torque to 10 ft-lbs, or hand-tighten per instructions on the filter (gasket contact plus 3/4 turn for the Mobil 1 filter; contact plus 3/4 -1 turn for the Mopar filter).
  10. Giulia oil capacity is 5.5quarts; fill with 5 quarts then add by 8 oz increments per the engine oil level monitor in the infotainment screen.
  11. Start car, check for leaks. If none, reinstall engine belly pan by sliding front lip under the air dam where the 7 screws are, then gradually slide toward rear while guiding rear pan edge under the wheel arch trim on both sides. Fasten loosely with two screws on each side at the rear. Work forward, inserting screws by hand and leaving loose so belly pan can be adjusted if necessary. End with the 7 screws along the front edge of the pan. Tighten all by hand finger tight. Then tighten all by hand carefully with 1/4” drive ratchet with 3/8” drive adaptor to the 3/8” drive T27 socket.
  12. Back car carefully down the ramps, and drive car and warm to operating temperature, check oil level on monitor and add by 8 oz. until full using oil level monitor.
  13. Reset oil life monitor (what’s the secret?) or ask Alfa dealer. I posted here what I read somewhere "car ignition on but not running, depress accelerator pedal three times slowly pausing between each press then turn car off", but unfortunately it DID NOT WORK.
  14. Congratulate myself, used $36 of the Mobil 1 oil which is normally $9.49 per quart but on sale at NAPA for $5.99 and $10 Mobil 1 filter.

My car is going in this evening for software updates tomorrow; I'm going to ask them to tell me the "secret handshake" to reset oil life monitor or to reset it with their computer. If you're claustrophobic find a way to raise car higher. The belly pan is right in your face, particularly at the rear of it where it tucks under the wheel arch trim. It's not so bad removing it, but kind of hateful to reinstall. Also, remove the screws and reinstall in a different order if you like.

I just did what made sense to me after studying how the belly pan is overlapped by the air dam/under bumper in front and wheel arch trim in the rear. It's easier to move back and forth to free the rear up rather than the other way. Oh, all the usual disclaimers; this worked for me and I expect it would for you (caution claustrophobics) but use caution and work carefully, etc.
 
#50 ·
The car should be level when you check the oil level.

I checked the ramps that I previously used with my Protege and they just barely do not clear the front fascia of my Q4.

I bought a set of Jackpoint Jackstands. They take a little more time than ramps to get the car up, but the car is up and safe on stands once this is done.
 
#53 · (Edited)
Unfortunately, there is no easy reset like other FCA vehicles. There actually are 2 monitors that need to be reset using the factory Wi-tech scan tool after the service. One monitor is the oil change monitor in the PCM module. It will also measure the oil level with the oil condition sensor during the reset, to make sure the level is correct and not over/underfilled. Then there is the reset of the maint minder in the instrument cluster module that shows the days and mileage until the next service, even though it is only displayed in the center display, not in the instrument cluster.

Both monitors are independent of each other. So depending on your driving habits you may get an "oil service due" message in your instrument cluster before the maintenance mileage, displayed in the center display, is actually reached.
 
#55 ·
Can MultiEcuScan reset both of them? Resetting the "oil service due" indicator was a major selling point of MultiEcuScan over the less expensive phone app and ELM327 adapter arrangement.
 
#57 ·
I have Multiecuscan also, I remember reading somewhere in their doc's about the 2 places to reset. Will try on my next oil change (at 16k).
 
#58 ·
I guess the question I have is if a floor jack is used to lift the car from one of the four jack pads under the car, where do you place the jackstand on that corner. Or, do you lift from somewhere else with the floor jack and then put the jackstand under the jacking pads.
 
#62 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have the RennStand by Safejack on order
  • Load rating 3 tons (6,000 lbs) per stand Weight per stand - 14 lbs
  • Minimum height 11.5 inches Maximum height 16.5 inches
  • Rennstand adds approximately 1.9 inches or 50 MM to the lowest setting of your jack including the jack pad





2 1/2" Base with 3/4" Stud



My jack at lowest is 4", these should just fit under car, Alfa jack points are 2:square / 1" hole, when they come in I'll give a review.
 
#63 ·
As for raising the Giulia, would there be a problem using a floor jack with a wood block on the saddle, under the rear differential housing?
As for the front, the same jack under the front suspension lower control arm?
Then place the jack stands under the jacking posts.
 
#72 ·
Went through the DIY oil change yesterday on my 2018 and thought I would add some additional observations to the original posts. I used the Oil change kit from Centerline Alfa that contains the Mopar 0W30 oil and mopar filter.
Best of all, not only did I save about $100 avoiding the dealer, I didn't lose any time doing the drop off/pick up dance with them which would have cost an additional couple hours.

1) Unless you have special jackstands, you really should use ramps. I chose not to jack up the rear lift point and try placing my jackstands on the front points - I just didn't trust that method after switching sides and was worried about the car sliding off the stand when jacking up to opposite side. $50 ramps from AutoZone worked great. Probably just a tiny bit too steep and the front fascia scraped ever so slightly, but wasn't a big deal IMHO.

2) The bolts for the lower tray were numerous and although from what I can tell, my car was previously dealer serviced (was a lease return), were not replaced properly in the past. Clearly several were the incorrect thickness and length and one was missing entirely. Even dealers mess this up apparently.

3) The orangutan tech who previously changed the oil must have been a power lifter because the drain plug was tight enough that I broke a socket trying to extricate it. Using my legs and traditional wrench worked fine.

4) My oil was BLACK. CarFax showed the dealer I purchased from changed the oil at 23,805 miles. I'm at 28,487 11 months later. The car is NOT driven hard at all. I do not think I will go more than 5k miles before the next change and 10k is completely out of the question.

5) All other pointers are good. The oil shoots out of the drain hole with some force so position your pan strategically. My car took 5.5 quarts and put me right at the full line so definitely do not throw all 6 in there.

Finally, does anyone know if there is a way to update the Alfa Connect website for your VIN to record your service?
 
#73 ·
Went through the DIY oil change yesterday on my 2018 and thought I would add some additional observations to the original posts. I used the Oil change kit from Centerline Alfa that contains the Mopar 0W30 oil and mopar filter.
Best of all, not only did I save about $100 avoiding the dealer, I didn't lose any time doing the drop off/pick up dance with them which would have cost an additional couple hours.

1) Unless you have special jackstands, you really should use ramps. I chose not to jack up the rear lift point and try placing my jackstands on the front points - I just didn't trust that method after switching sides and was worried about the car sliding off the stand when jacking up to opposite side. $50 ramps from AutoZone worked great. Probably just a tiny bit too steep and the front fascia scraped ever so slightly, but wasn't a big deal IMHO.

2) The bolts for the lower tray were numerous and although from what I can tell, my car was previously dealer serviced (was a lease return), were not replaced properly in the past. Clearly several were the incorrect thickness and length and one was missing entirely. Even dealers mess this up apparently.

3) The orangutan tech who previously changed the oil must have been a power lifter because the drain plug was tight enough that I broke a socket trying to extricate it. Using my legs and traditional wrench worked fine.

4) My oil was BLACK. CarFax showed the dealer I purchased from changed the oil at 23,805 miles. I'm at 28,487 11 months later. The car is NOT driven hard at all. I do not think I will go more than 5k miles before the next change and 10k is completely out of the question.

5) All other pointers are good. The oil shoots out of the drain hole with some force so position your pan strategically. My car took 5.5 quarts and put me right at the full line so definitely do not throw all 6 in there.

Finally, does anyone know if there is a way to update the Alfa Connect website for your VIN to record your service?
Contact them via the customer care number. Have your VIN handy. They'll put a ticket in and get you set. Took a couple of days but they fixed mine recently. Customer Care: 1-844-253-2872. BTW, they won't fill in any service records prior to your ownership. Privacy issues they say.
 
#74 ·
I have always kept all the maintenance and service records for my cars, and a log of my own oil changes, plus receipts and such. When I sold my '03 Jag X sport sedan to the alfa dealer when I bought my '18 QV, I did not include my folder of my car's history from new, as I know the used car dealer they would wholesale it to would throw all of it away. Kinda sad, whoever they are, they will never know how well it was maintained. But then, maybe to them my wonderful Jag is just a used car.

NV
 
#75 · (Edited)
I have always kept all the maintenance and service records for my cars, and a log of my own oil changes, plus receipts and such. When I sold my '03 Jag X sport sedan to the alfa dealer when I bought my '18 QV, I did not include my folder of my car's history from new, as I know the used car dealer they would wholesale it to would throw all of it away. Kinda sad, whoever they are, they will never know how well it was maintained. But then, maybe to them my wonderful Jag is just a used car.

NV
I used the MyCars app. You can take photos of receipts to attach to the record. Awesomeness!
 
#77 ·
I was going to create a new oil change thread but I saw no need since this thread breaks the process down fairly well. The oil change is very easy on the 2.0T model. My main issue was properly jacking up and supporting the Giulia to perform the oil change. Therefore, I only just adding that owners can use a special jack that allows jack stands to place under the lifting cubes at same time that the jack is lifting the car.

I used a PowerBuilt brand U-jack and rubber jacks for a Tesla. The combo worked well. The U-jack only flaw is that you can only used smaller narrow support arm 2 ton and 3 ton jack stands with it.

My oil of choice was 5 1/2 quarts of Mobil 1 0w-30 Fuel Economy oil and a Wix oil filter. Very easy oil change.

The U-jack in use. Very useful jack; especially for cars like the Giulia without any exposed pinch weld.
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The oil and filter I used. I poured on 5 quart jug and then measured out a 1/2 quart with a measuring cup from another 5 quart jug.
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