[lockem]

Is getting the heatshield off to do this pretty easy does anyone know.
I’m not that mechanical but dont fancy spending $$ on a new turbo.

I just wiggled the heat shield loose enough that I can get my fingers and screwdriver in there. I used a different wrench/ratchet/socket on each of the nuts/bolts. A stubby handle folding ratchet is really required to get the rear most screw loose.

I have no clue regarding how you get the heat shield fully off. After loosening screws the whole thing moves, but hangs up somewhere.

 

[lockem]

apparently its like semi permanently attached to the turbo...idk

I do not know how your car is assembled. In my car both ends of the linkage are held on with circlips that are readily removed and re-installed using a screw driver. The clips even have a convenient built in slot for a screwdriver (or similar) to make R&R easier. I can see the circlip on the turbo end of the linkage without disturbing the heat shielding, but I cannot reach it with my fingers or tools without first lifting the heat shield up a bit.

There is also a spring (not sure what it does) on the turbo end. It is a bit fiddly to R&R and requires enough room to get in there with fingers.

 

[lockem]

Given that after replacing my actuator arm with a "fresh" one, I still got P0299, I have to wonder if other problems such as the waste gate not sealing are the actual cause of this error. If so, maybe the turbo replacement is inevitable and that accounts for why Alfa does not sell the arm as a separate part.

 

[lockem]

Could you post pictures of the used waste gate arm you acquired compared to your old arm? The used arm holes is probably worn out as well; hence why I do not even bother with used turbo parts for this engine.

However, it is possible that the turbo waste-gate itself(inside the turbo housing) can be worn as well which would mean a new turbo or a turbo rebuild. To avoid an extra expense of possible PCM replacement/resetting; it would be still best to buy a new waste-gate arm(if available) and reuse the old waste-gate module on the new turbo.

It is not as-if I installed the bar without inspecting it first. The replacement bar had minimal wear and unlike the bar it replaced did not rattle incessantly while I drive.
I am not taking my car apart just so I can take a picture.

There is a non-lubricated pivot on the lever that operates the waste gate. IIRC, our moderator once posted pictures of the insides of used and new turbos, showing that the new turbo was already wobbly and the old turbo was even more wobbly.

I also wonder if exhaust soot can accumulate on the valve parts, causing leakage.

 

[lockem]

Fair enough. I would not take a part a working turbo either just to compare parts and take pics. I was hoping that you removed the arm already to correct your stated issue.

I guess we just have to take your word for it that your used waste-gate arm was in better condition than your old waste-gate arm; however the used replacement arm was not much better it seems by your account since the used arm failed in the same way a few thousand miles later.

If you had a failed turbo/waste-gate module then the code should appeared right away after swapping in the used arm I believe. I think that your used replacement waste-gate arm was already worn and just got as bad as your old arm after some use.

Either way you got to finger out how to correct your issue. Good luck.

Note: I am not sure how you inspected the used arm, but I would have used a caliper measuring tool to check the hole dimensions. However, I would need a new arm to compare the used arm wear to. The holes may only need to wear to a certain point(not noticeable by the naked eye) where it start causes issues and trouble codes.

A failure of the waste gate to seal is not the same as a failure of the waste gate module. IIRC @JeFizz had a failure of the waste gate.

My old arm was something like 1 or 2mm out of round on the small end. That is an amount of wear that is easily seen particularly on the 4-5mm diameter hole. I temporarily "fixed" the problem by bending the arm in the middle. It took a ~12mm bow to take up the wear. IIRC, I made a measurement of the wear on the replacement part with my dial caliper, but simply noted "not much" and did not record the value.

At this point I think I will need a new turbo charger, the installation of which seems to need some action to prevent getting a permanent P0244 fault.

 

[lockem]

I know that a waste gate failure is not the same as a module failure. No shit.

My point is that is that the issue could be the used arm being out of spec. Heck, you do not know what a good arm hole measurement should be as that you are making a general size estimate of 4mm-5mm. You bent your old arm to make it work; so how do you know the used arm was even in spec or was not close to being out of spec by measuring it.

However, you are correct that turbo waste-gates fail as could any other part of the turbo. It seems that you just got unlucky and may need a rebuilt/new turbo to solve your problem. Good Luck.

I am very tired of your non-productive comments. Repeating myself for I do not know how many times: I measured the old bar. I measured the new replacement bar. I do not have a record of those measurements to be able to give you the values. I am not taking anything apart just to give you said measurements.

I provided the best numbers that my faulty memory could produce. They are wrong. So what?
In response to my statement that I think my waste gate valve is too worn to function properly you said "If you had a failed turbo/waste-gate module then the code should appeared right away after swapping in the used arm I believe", apparently conflating the waste gate valve and the waste gate module.

It sounds like you are accusing me of lying about making said measurements because I failed to write them down for your benefit. I am insulted and you have no excuse for casting said insult.

I have seen nothing constructive so far regarding my hypothesis: that Alfa does not sell replacement turbo waste gate actuator arms because other parts of the turbo charger wear out at a similar rate to the waste gate actuator arm, forcing inevitable turbo replacement. Stop polluting this thread with your insults and instead let several people install replacement arms and see how many miles they can go before/if P0299 re-appears.

 

[lockem]

Calm down.

My point is that you are having the same issue reappear after using an used replacement arm that may have been already worn. If you used a new waste gate arm and then have the issue reappear a short time later then I would be more incline to agree with you that it could be the turbo waste gate itself.

I am not insulting anyone or getting personal about this topic; you are.

I understand that other parts of the turbo can fail and will fail. Hence my statement about maybe needing to replace or rebuild your turbo. However, it seems that a new waste-gate arm could solve many of the excessive rattle/P0299 related issues.

In your case I just blame the used replacement arm you installed.

Yes you are. I have said repeatedly that I measured the arm and it was not significantly worn. PERIOD. END OF DISCUSSION.
Your constantly stating that I cannot make a very simple measurement is an insult.

 

[lockem]

This problem is not unique to the Alfa, my brother has an F150 with linkage rattle (Ford TSB) they replaced the linkage with new design and the rattle is gone. The proof will be over time as the old linkage was 5 yrs old when it too had elongated at the mounting holes...actually looks like these things are a cheap pot-metal alloy. I have recently read BMW is having this same problem. Likely the same company is the supplier of this waste gate arm. Can you say "Made in China"??😂😂

I bothered to check "the internet" and it says that "pot metal" is remarkably ill defined:

1) Metal used to make a pot. Typically copper or cast iron.
2) Metal that can be melted in a (cast iron?) pot. Typically some mix of lead, tin and zinc.
3) Metal scraps that were tossed into a pot. Fully random composition depending on the source of the scraps.

Before looking this up, I was only familiar with definition 2). I am going to guess that you intended to use definition 3). Whatever was used is certainly magnetic and much harder than any metal as defined in 2), and it clearly can withstand much higher temperatures than definition 2).

Anyway, please beware of the massive ambiguity when using said term.
Also, my guess is that some specific alloy of iron or nickel is used, selected to be easily die cut as a cost cutting measure.

 

[lockem]

WOW, I wish I had this kind of time...😂. I never claimed it "WAS / IS" pot metal. It "looks like" what I'm familiar with as pot metal (monkey metal we sometimes refer) having worked with machine shops for a very long time. My point was it appears to be a very poor quality metal or very poorly made seeing as it's an industry wide issue with similar failures through several car brands.

I suspect that the real problem is the bang-bang control of the waste gate. Instead of the controller learning how to get the right flow through the gate like old school pressure controlled gates, it oscillates the gate between opened and closed positions very rapidly. Such rapid oscillations with non-lubricated pivots is a formula for rapid wear.

I have not tested the metal to try to determine its quality. I only know that it is mildly magnetic and can be bent in a vice with a hammer.

 

[lockem]

@lockem

I just tried replaced the actuator arm on my Stelvio, and it was fine except that I can't get the spring to re-install. You mentioned the spring was fiddly to R&R in your post - how did you re-install the end that attaches to the turbo unit? The end that fits into the hole in the actuator arm is fine, but I can't find a hole in the turbo unit to put the other end of the spring into (I am assuming that the other end of the spring isn't meant to be permanently attached to the turbo unit and I broke it off...). It's a really tight space so tough to see what is going in in there. Thanks in advance.

I don't remember the details now, but IIRC the spring ends each engage a hole; one in the long arm and the other in the short arm that is a permanent part of the turbo. The holes are small and pretty much impossible to find by feel, so I think I just scratched around using the loose end of the spring until it dropped into the hole.

For the code, you cannot remove it unless you send me the ECU for a reset.

That is unfortunate. Why would they do that? At least I did not get any code after fiddling with my actuator arm.