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Do these go bad because of age or mileage or environment and do we know if an updated part ever started being used? Where I live we have seasons but it doesn't get really cold and stay cold very long any more. My car is a 2022 Q4 and I am putting about 25k miles per year on it. I drive hundreds of miles away from home for work fairly often and don't want to risk something like this being a problem while I am out. I am trying to determine if/when I should replace these relays.

Also, have we determined a best option for replacement? Is it the Picker relay?
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
Any PN for these panasonic relays?
My records say Panasonic CM1A-12V fits Giulia.

My backhoe takes a different relay.
My backhoe's electrically operated shifter turned out to be failing because the transmission fluid was old and nasty.
 
It's a bit easier if you remove the wheel.
 
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It's a bit easier if you remove the wheel.
I seem to have read that on the latest cars they have moved the loom to a more accessible / easier location ......

just an idea, but maybe you could get/build an extender, to move the location of the relay(s)
 
Last night I decided to do it even though it was not an option to jack up the car and remove the wheel.
So it cost me three hours of lying on the ground in various positions while trying to get the relay boxes back onto the brackets.
So I would recommend definitely removing the wheel and a convenient section of the wheel arch liner as a minimum.
 
91.5 ohms for both the GM 96484304 and Alfa OMRON 6106093AA Relays, 82 ohms for the updated Mopar 6106094AA Relay.
Contact point on both the Alfa OMRON and GM looks to be about the same size, the Contact point on the Mopar relay is Massive in comparison.
Okay folks - are these relays tested OK for Giulia Veloce ?
I am not allowed to post links yet but I found them £5 each
If so I will return what I already ordered and buy 6
please let us know
 
I've replaced the original relays with GM from Rock Auto years ago and they are working perfectly. As an aside, when I press the start button I notice a very slight (fraction of a second) hesitation before the starter begins to turn. If I press the start button without pressing the brake pedal to just turn on the ignition to check my oil level between the center gauges first, and then press the brake pedal and then press the start button to start the engine, the starter fires instantly. I mean instantly.
 
hello All....i'm a bit confused. isn't a relay a relay. 12V...energized...contact closes? end. are the ones on amazon like the ones on Amazon for $12...set of 4 (4 pin)

good enough?

thanks!!

2019 alfa giulia carbon/nero edition.....
 
Most control relays have what are known as Form C contacts, meaning each pole has a Common connection, a Normally Closed (NC) connection, and a Normally Open (NO) connection. If the relay is de-energized, the common and NC will be connected and the common to NO will be open. When energized, the opposite occurs; NO to common is closed and NC to common is open. Relays can have multiple poles and usually do. A common use of both connections on a single pole would be to open the main circuit (NC) upon energization which simultaneously closes the NO circuit to energize an alarm that the main is now open. So I would stick with the normal pin configuration to be sure that everything works.
 
Most control relays have what are known as Form C contacts, meaning each pole has a Common connection, a Normally Closed (NC) connection, and a Normally Open (NO) connection. If the relay is de-energized, the common and NC will be connected and the common to NO will be open. When energized, the opposite occurs; NO to common is closed and NC to common is open. Relays can have multiple poles and usually do. A common use of both connections on a single pole would be to open the main circuit (NC) upon energization which simultaneously closes the NO circuit to energize an alarm that the main is now open. So I would stick with the normal pin configuration to be sure that everything works.
But these relays are not form C as they have only one connection to the NO contact. these are 4 pin not 5.
 
I went out to the garage and looked at my spare OEM relay. Yes, four pin and NO and common only. So if the Amazon pins have the same configuration, which they probably do, they will probably work. Longevity and reliability might be a problem but who knows?
 
I went out to the garage and looked at my spare OEM relay. Yes, four pin and NO and common only. So if the Amazon pins have the same configuration, which they probably do, they will probably work. Longevity and reliability might be a problem but who knows?
thanks for taking the time to check. i will try and let everyone know if the $5 relay solved the problem, at least short term fix.
have a good day!
 
I replaced two of the critical problem relays with aftermarket relays from Meat & Doria. The price per unit was a little over €3.
Upon opening the M&D box I found Mopar relays in all their glory. Things have worked flawlessly since.
 
Not all relays of the same pin configuration are created equally. Poor metals, poor plating, fewer windings, etc. I replaced my original relays with the GM relays. Perfect since!!
 
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I am being tortured by the old [will turn won't start] and have shuffled relays around including new ones. On my car 2017 Super the bar containing the 3 relay sets the relay pair visible from under the bonnet/hood has only 1 relay not 2 so is there a wire colour guide I can use to identify which is the dreaded R2A . Martin
 
I am being tortured by the old [will turn won't start] and have shuffled relays around including new ones. On my car 2017 Super the bar containing the 3 relay sets the relay pair visible from under the bonnet/hood has only 1 relay not 2 so is there a wire colour guide I can use to identify which is the dreaded R2A . Martin
Attached is the wiring diagram for the six relays - assuming I can get past the watchdogs on copying the wiring diagram. The colors shown on the wires indicate the actual wire colors.

Image
 
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