[maxpower]

This is what was in my car. Is this not AGM?

That is the oem EFB (flooded). It says so on the top right.

 

[wingler]

View attachment 176434

This is what was in my car. Is this not AGM?

The label says it’s “Special Flooded Start/Stop battery”, so I would think EFB.

• EFB stands for Enhanced Flooded Battery, a type of lead-acid battery.
• Designed for vehicles with start-stop technology to improve performance.

 

[lockem]

Why not? Look at this https://www.giuliaforums.com/thread...ms.com/threads/new-battery-on-brand-new-car.60607/?post_id=1028516#post-1028516 this https://www.giuliaforums.com/threads/what-are-proxi-parameters-for-agm-battery-on-giulia-2-2.65519/ but not all experiences are positive

I was not aware of the proxy setting. I see that there is a setting for a 63aH LFP buried in the discussion (xxxx0100). Has anybody tried it? There is a hint that someone with a MY2017 QV might have done so.

 

[Emozine]

The label says it’s “Special Flooded Start/Stop battery”, so I would think EFB.

• EFB stands for Enhanced Flooded Battery, a type of lead-acid battery.
• Designed for vehicles with start-stop technology to improve performance.

Rats, no idea how I missed that. I was specifically looking for EFB or AGM somewhere. My google search on the numbers on that battery returned references to AGM. Weird.

 

[wingler]

Rats, no idea how I missed that. I was specifically looking for EFB or AGM somewhere. My google search on the numbers on that battery returned references to AGM. Weird.

Yeah, I did the part number search and an AI query and got both battery types as a result 🤷‍♂️

They should make it a bit more obvious on the battery, but I knew what I was looking for because that’s the battery in both my cars.

 

[danardi]

AI is not a smart guy

 

[AlfaAndy]

Al is so wrong with so many automotive questions. Worse than so many of the keyboard warriors here!

 

[Jase17Ti]

Is it an Alfa time bomb or just the universe being a dick that’s behind 4 people currently reading this aged thread?!

Our ‘17 failed to start yesterday. Found this thread. Just airmailed 6 of the Panasonic relays to myself. Hoping it works.

Thanks to all that have contributed to these gorgeous 11 pages over the past 3 years.

 

[BernSF]

Is it an Alfa time bomb or just the universe being a dick that’s behind 4 people currently reading this aged thread?!

Our ‘17 failed to start yesterday. Found this thread. Just airmailed 6 of the Panasonic relays to myself. Hoping it works.

Thanks to all that have contributed to these gorgeous 11 pages over the past 3 years.

In theory you can take one of your existing OEM relays out of the trunk as I believe those are all for non "starting" things like rear defroster. The starter relay (R2A) is accessible via the engine compartment if you refer to the multiple diagrams/pics on page 1, or the one I copied below. For a video visual this YT shows the relay swap

 

[Jase17Ti]

Fantastic. Thank you for that information. I suppose I could have saved a little on the shipping.

 

[BernSF]

Fantastic. Thank you for that information. I suppose I could have saved a little on the shipping.

That's a temp fix to get you driving again. That said for the cost, this should be done preventatively to simply not get stranded and or a non-start. Hold your OEM ones as back-ups. If doing the wheel well ones is too much of a DIY hassle, I had mine put in during my 30K service while my tire was off for a rotation, I think I was charged an additional $40.

 

[Jase17Ti]

My issue is actually intermittent. Occurred for the first time last night while we were out for dinner. On maybe the 20th attempt, after having locked/unlocked, etc. numerous times, it started & we made it home. It didn’t start for my wife this morning but did when I tried couple hours later.
When it doesn’t work it’s as discussed here: dash lights up but no starter motor. Only adverse telltale was blinking TPS indicator. So I won’t immediately know if a new relay was the fix. Just thoughts ‘n’ prayers.

 

[AlfaAndy]

@Jase17Ti , same symptoms for many. Intermittent no crank. Keep trying, it will work. New relays (I used the GM ones from Rock) will make it 100%.

 

[Jase17Ti]

@Jase17Ti , same symptoms for many. Intermittent no crank. Keep trying, it will work. New relays (I used the GM ones from Rock) will make it 100%.

6 new relays arrived yesterday. Installed today and everything appears to work as it should 😁.
Based on others’ replies I reserved some hope it may resolve my stumble/hesitanty pull off symptom but that persists (dealer thinks it may be the torque converter but that’s for a separate thread).

The relay switch out was pleasantly simple. Most complex thing was getting trolley jack under the car. But with passenger wheel off the liner was removed easily and the 3 relay boxes simple to drop from their frame and open.

Old ones are red and new Panasonic ones are black.

 

[kldiet]

Relay swap and coolant bleeder screw replacement are two key DIY preventative things you do to make your Alfa driving experience a joy. 😁

 

[chris.t]

I've been experiencing starting issues with my 2017 Giulia Veloce (UK Spec) for quite a while and replaced what I believed to be the starter relay some time ago but it didn't seem to make a difference. Starting is fairly reliable in the summer, but now the weather is cooling again the problem is back (BTW - I have changed the battery and IBS sensor). So I'm questioning whether I replaced the right relay which has led me to this thread.

The thing that is puzzling me is that I don't seem to have a relay in the rightmost slot (R2A in the diagram). I've currently only removed one of the relay covers as this is the one I can reach without disassembling the wheel arch and there's only one relay in there. I'm thinking of replacing all the relays, but before I order the parts and take everything apart I'm just wondering if there are alternate designs and if anyone else has empty slots in these relay holders?

 

[BlueBay Alfa]

@JeFizz and others have used the PANASONIC CM1A-12V relays.
They are potted. (enclosed in epoxy)
Considering they are exposed to the elements, that makes sense.

Here's one of many sites that sell them for cheap...

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electric-works/CM1A-R-12V/647140

I ordered those Panasonic CM1A-R-12V and have replaced the two relays that can be reached from the top of the engine bay.

Replacing those took me all in all less then 10 minutes including the triple checks if all was seated well ✅️👍

Next thing to do will be replacing the relays behind the wheel arch, but for that i need some more time and working space.

I think I will skip replacing the relays in the back of the car. Have not heard yet about issues with those, I believe.

I replaced the trunk relays mainly due to how easy it is to access them. But I will say that with one of them being for my HIFI system, I noticed it did reduce latency on my infotainment system. I know that sounds crazy, but it was absolutely noticeable.

 

[danardi]

I replaced the trunk relays mainly due to how easy it is to access them. But I will say that with one of them being for my HIFI system, I noticed it did reduce latency on my infotainment system. I know that sounds crazy, but it was absolutely noticeable.

What you mean with latency on infotainment?Probably the most of the work about improvement is the powercycle of etm due to the battery disconnection

 

[BlueBay Alfa]

By latency, I am referring to how quickly the infotainment screen responded to inputs. The relay that I removed was not the best condition, it almost appeared to have indication of heat cycling, specifically on the connectors, not extreme by any means, but they were discolored. If the relay was getting hot, it probably wasn’t performing well is what I takeaway. The factory relays clearly has some design fault because the updated version have larger contact prongs. There is a thread that measures the new vs old with a micrometer. Which is where I got this information from initially, and then observed it with the new ones that I purchased from Alfissmo vs the factory ones that I removed.

I did not remove the negative battery terminal to change any of the relays. I read multiple other threads about relay replacement and it was deemed unnecessary. I had no issues at all, I changed one relay at a time and have done all but the passenger wheel well. I have a 2020 and was able to change two by the front headlight.

Circling back to the infotainment, I am still unsure if I should update my infotainment system. SF Exocit’s has an authorized Alfa Romeo team and said that my VIN did not require an update, but I am running 119 and I know current is 131. From what I’ve read , it’s a 2 part update. One to go to 127 and then another to go to 131. This could explain why Alfa isn’t doing it or….it could be for Nav equipped only cars. I haven’t had time to figure it out yet.

 

[wingler]

By latency, I am referring to how quickly the infotainment screen responded to inputs. The relay that I removed was not the best condition, it almost appeared to have indication of heat cycling, specifically on the connectors, not extreme by any means, but they were discolored. If the relay was getting hot, it probably wasn’t performing well is what I takeaway. The factory relays clearly has some design fault because the updated version have larger contact prongs. There is a thread that measures the new vs old with a micrometer. Which is where I got this information from initially, and then observed it with the new ones that I purchased from Alfissmo vs the factory ones that I removed.

I did not remove the negative battery terminal to change any of the relays. I read multiple other threads about relay replacement and it was deemed unnecessary. I had no issues at all, I changed one relay at a time and have done all but the passenger wheel well. I have a 2020 and was able to change two by the front headlight.

Circling back to the infotainment, I am still unsure if I should update my infotainment system. SF Exocit’s has an authorized Alfa Romeo team and said that my VIN did not require an update, but I am running 119 and I know current is 131. From what I’ve read , it’s a 2 part update. One to go to 127 and then another to go to 131. This could explain why Alfa isn’t doing it or….it could be for Nav equipped only cars. I haven’t had time to figure it out yet.

Dealers typically won’t update infotainment SW unless you are exhibiting a specific issue that they can replicate, and there is an update available that addresses that issue.

There is only downside for them (labor cost, and risk of something going wrong) if they update just because there’s a newer version available.

Downloads are available for you to DIY, of course that’s at your own risk.