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This is what was in my car. Is this not AGM?
The label says it’s “Special Flooded Start/Stop battery”, so I would think EFB.

  • EFB stands for Enhanced Flooded Battery, a type of lead-acid battery.
  • Designed for vehicles with start-stop technology to improve performance.
 
I was not aware of the proxy setting. I see that there is a setting for a 63aH LFP buried in the discussion (xxxx0100). Has anybody tried it? There is a hint that someone with a MY2017 QV might have done so.
 
The label says it’s “Special Flooded Start/Stop battery”, so I would think EFB.

  • EFB stands for Enhanced Flooded Battery, a type of lead-acid battery.
  • Designed for vehicles with start-stop technology to improve performance.
Rats, no idea how I missed that. I was specifically looking for EFB or AGM somewhere. My google search on the numbers on that battery returned references to AGM. Weird.
 
Rats, no idea how I missed that. I was specifically looking for EFB or AGM somewhere. My google search on the numbers on that battery returned references to AGM. Weird.
Yeah, I did the part number search and an AI query and got both battery types as a result 🤷‍♂️

They should make it a bit more obvious on the battery, but I knew what I was looking for because that’s the battery in both my cars.
 
Al is so wrong with so many automotive questions. Worse than so many of the keyboard warriors here!
 
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Is it an Alfa time bomb or just the universe being a dick that’s behind 4 people currently reading this aged thread?!

Our ‘17 failed to start yesterday. Found this thread. Just airmailed 6 of the Panasonic relays to myself. Hoping it works.

Thanks to all that have contributed to these gorgeous 11 pages over the past 3 years.
 
Is it an Alfa time bomb or just the universe being a dick that’s behind 4 people currently reading this aged thread?!

Our ‘17 failed to start yesterday. Found this thread. Just airmailed 6 of the Panasonic relays to myself. Hoping it works.

Thanks to all that have contributed to these gorgeous 11 pages over the past 3 years.
In theory you can take one of your existing OEM relays out of the trunk as I believe those are all for non "starting" things like rear defroster. The starter relay (R2A) is accessible via the engine compartment if you refer to the multiple diagrams/pics on page 1, or the one I copied below. For a video visual this YT shows the relay swap


Image
 
Fantastic. Thank you for that information. I suppose I could have saved a little on the shipping.
That's a temp fix to get you driving again. That said for the cost, this should be done preventatively to simply not get stranded and or a non-start. Hold your OEM ones as back-ups. If doing the wheel well ones is too much of a DIY hassle, I had mine put in during my 30K service while my tire was off for a rotation, I think I was charged an additional $40.
 
My issue is actually intermittent. Occurred for the first time last night while we were out for dinner. On maybe the 20th attempt, after having locked/unlocked, etc. numerous times, it started & we made it home. It didn’t start for my wife this morning but did when I tried couple hours later.
When it doesn’t work it’s as discussed here: dash lights up but no starter motor. Only adverse telltale was blinking TPS indicator. So I won’t immediately know if a new relay was the fix. Just thoughts ‘n’ prayers.
 
@Jase17Ti , same symptoms for many. Intermittent no crank. Keep trying, it will work. New relays (I used the GM ones from Rock) will make it 100%.
 
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@Jase17Ti , same symptoms for many. Intermittent no crank. Keep trying, it will work. New relays (I used the GM ones from Rock) will make it 100%.
6 new relays arrived yesterday. Installed today and everything appears to work as it should 😁.
Based on others’ replies I reserved some hope it may resolve my stumble/hesitanty pull off symptom but that persists (dealer thinks it may be the torque converter but that’s for a separate thread).

The relay switch out was pleasantly simple. Most complex thing was getting trolley jack under the car. But with passenger wheel off the liner was removed easily and the 3 relay boxes simple to drop from their frame and open.

Old ones are red and new Panasonic ones are black.

Image

Image
 
I've been experiencing starting issues with my 2017 Giulia Veloce (UK Spec) for quite a while and replaced what I believed to be the starter relay some time ago but it didn't seem to make a difference. Starting is fairly reliable in the summer, but now the weather is cooling again the problem is back (BTW - I have changed the battery and IBS sensor). So I'm questioning whether I replaced the right relay which has led me to this thread.

The thing that is puzzling me is that I don't seem to have a relay in the rightmost slot (R2A in the diagram). I've currently only removed one of the relay covers as this is the one I can reach without disassembling the wheel arch and there's only one relay in there. I'm thinking of replacing all the relays, but before I order the parts and take everything apart I'm just wondering if there are alternate designs and if anyone else has empty slots in these relay holders?
 
@JeFizz and others have used the PANASONIC CM1A-12V relays.
They are potted. (enclosed in epoxy)
Considering they are exposed to the elements, that makes sense.

Here's one of many sites that sell them for cheap...

I ordered those Panasonic CM1A-R-12V and have replaced the two relays that can be reached from the top of the engine bay.

Replacing those took me all in all less then 10 minutes including the triple checks if all was seated well ✅️👍

Next thing to do will be replacing the relays behind the wheel arch, but for that i need some more time and working space.

I think I will skip replacing the relays in the back of the car. Have not heard yet about issues with those, I believe.

I replaced the trunk relays mainly due to how easy it is to access them. But I will say that with one of them being for my HIFI system, I noticed it did reduce latency on my infotainment system. I know that sounds crazy, but it was absolutely noticeable.
 
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