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Replacing or Upgrading HK Subwoofer

120K views 153 replies 44 participants last post by  Valgar  
#1 ·
Has anyone found any neat solutions to this?

I am happy enough with the mids and highs of the HK system after the dreaded surround mode was turned off, but the bass is pretty pathetic.

In the past I have run all kinds of aftermarket subs and amps etc, but that was when I was younger and not driving a car that I'm precious about and has built in audio etc.

The standard sub is described as:

One Subwoofer of 18x27 cm (180x270 mm) on the parcel shelf

So options are maybe:

1) Replace the sub with another, not sure what would fit in it's place, and would the HK amp have enough power to drive one anyway? Probably not?

2) Get a small separate amp for the current subwoofer (which barely looks like a sub to me!)

3) Change both the amp and sub

Do Audison or some others do anything neat/plug and play??

Has anybody had any luck changing the sub?
 
#82 · (Edited)
All done. There's also an LC2I behind the panel. Wiring is all braided behind the panel where the Lc2i sits, as well.

JBL powered 12" w/150 W amp built in.

I got gain for days, the amp is literally next to off and it's LOUD. Boomy loud- I've got it crossed around 70HZ with no boost anywhere to thin it out a bit. Also, I don't think there's a rolloff on the system- doesn't seem to limit out at higher volume. Used the signal sense to control amps, it goes on when the car wakes up, and off when it sleeps. Kind of weird- apparently there's voltage at speaker level during wake- Factory amp must be D- class hence weird voltage.

The box is decent for $250, but doesn't quite fit against the back seat. Plays well tho.
 

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#83 ·
RIP trunk space. When I was 17, I had a 1996 Honda Civic coupe and put a huge box with two 12s in it. It was ridiculous and filled my entire trunk. Ah, the good old days, I'm sure my neighbors hated me. Now I listen to sports podcasts 95% of the time, so I suppose a sub upgrade wouldn't be justified.
 
#86 ·
I had 4 x12" in an 89 integra that took up the whole **** area. Rattled the spot welds on the roof loose. Used to wave and rock during playing.

Oh, and the thing with the Giulia is there are several problems:

1) volume. Does the volume get controlled thru factory amp? I suspect so since there's no control on the head itself. You need the factory amp. You cut the factory amp out, you get no volume control.

2)- chimes. Chimes go thru stereo, unfortunately. Means you must amplify those as well- or as some have noted, by having the warning on the dash then it only plays thru the center speaker, BUT that means the center speaker still has sound as well. So, upgrading amps and door speakers ONLY will still have the issue of center speaker. So, deal with very loud chimes, or limit yourself with having ONE stock speaker left on the dash with all that aftermarket gear. Waste of time.

3)- Dash speaker. I dunno about the rest of you guys, but I had access to replace the center speaker to at least a 4" I'd bite the bullet and run all speaks up front, and matched center channel, then go aftermarket amplifier. Since I don't know what's in the dash nor do I have any inclination to find out, it has to stay.

4)- Factory sound system actually images better than what most are capable of without spending big $$$. Imaging is excellent, and I find the tonal quality pleasant, doesn't bit your head off like high end (but poorly tuned) components. This sub compliments the factory sound system fairly well and will hit hard enough to make everyone around you hear it. System was obviously designed by people who know what the **** they're doing- cheaply, but they knew what they were doing.

In a perfect world, I'd upgrade every single front end driver, delete the backs, put a custom 12" in the driver's wall where that indent is, and incorporate DSP for 7 channel front and a sub.

But, that costs time and $$$, and there is little gain going full aftermarket, IMHO. Factory sound with a sub is better than what most guys can do with aftermarket gear- without spending a ton and having a pro set it up.
 
#84 ·
Has no installer yet figured out how to do away with the factory amp and insert a new unit in its place? I very much do NOT want to tap into the signal after the factory amp as many are suggesting. I understand that it works, and keeps error codes off the dash, but it's not ideal sonically.
 
#87 · (Edited)
That factory sub is simply too small and too poorly set up to do anything for most people- non enclosed, and tiny. Nothing will sound good under those circumstances..

I took it out all together and now it's a vent.

PS: Notice in the amp pic above the RH knob (gain) as almost all the way down. It's THAT loud. Lc2I wasn't touched out of the box- about 3/8 turned up.
 
#88 ·
The HK system *can* sound good. So much of it depends upon the source. Satellite radio has turned to garbage (initially, years ago, it sounded very good) but high quality files from an SD card or iPhone, etc. elevate the sonics substantially. There's still a lack of focus in every range of the audio spectrum, and high end is a wash, but it's a relatively inexpensive car stereo. The Meridian system in Rovers proves that auto sound CAN be excellent, but that's a very costly kit.

What I'm still unsure about is the best path toward upgrading this HK system. I don't like the idea of tethering a new amp off the existing amp, and speaker upgrades would be a more difficult road, and not necessarily a major change. An amp with DSP, capable of tuning each driver, or at least each speaker location, might be the best plan. That and a subwoofer replacement. I can't lose any trunk space, so it will need to go where the stock sub is. That's probably where I'll start.
 
#92 ·
It's a 6x9 even tho the pics come out weird.

6x9 is a drop in fit from the top, but if you look the car uses studs on the package tray and 4x 10MM bolts to secure the speaker in place. No guarantees a 6x9 will bolt on cleanly. may have to shave down the studs and then punch holes with nut / bolt.

That is, you find a 6x9 sub that may be worth anything. Frankly, I can't see anything that small with such little power and free air ever sounding good.
 

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#113 ·
Evening. I know that this post goes back to 2018. I was wondering if you mesured the impedance on this 6x9. I try to get the info before disassembling the rear to access the speaker. I have an Alpine brand 6x9 4 Ohms woofer. The hk kit may, just may be running in 2 ohms. Maybe not. Any feedbacks are welcome. Thanks
 
#93 ·
PS- As long as you aren't a cranker, and turn the audio past say 25, or so or don't go hog wild with club music an Infinity basslink works OK.

I actually bought a used one off ebay, wired it in last night, and it actually gave me my trunk back, but at about 27 or so on the stereo it kind of ran out of breath. Played deep enough tho, and certainly blended OK. I felt it would'be been great for someone who isn't a former hammerhead and plays too loud all the time (I'm not the candidate).

Had I not purchased that JBL box, it would've been OK just for filling out the sound.

That would be an option along with dismounting the 6x9...
 
#95 ·
I recommend mounting it laid down towards the front of the trunk. Put the heat sinks close to the driver's side so you can conceal the wiring and have it look somewhat neat. If you look closely, it fits in there so you can still lift the floor- notice how it doesn't cover the folding split. You can also stand it up, but watch out for the heatsink. It WILL get hot enough to burn the carpet it touches, Also, I believe standing it up looks a bit awkward and seems to waste space.

The trunk right next to the opening was a non-starter for me, just wasted space and didn't sound any different.
 

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#96 ·
Hey everyone. Looking to improve the sound a bit over the HK system. A lot of great ideas here but was wondering if anyone tried this.

https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/pwe-s8

Seems like a smaller option, may work well using a line out adaptor from the HK subwoofer speaker wires... not sure if anyone has tried and what the sound is like. Not looking to rattle the windows or anything, just improve the base response out of the factory system.
 
#97 ·
Hey everyone. ...
Seems like a smaller option, may work well using a line out adaptor from the HK subwoofer speaker wires... ....
Looking at the specs, it has a speaker level input (as well as RCA), so you would not even need a line out adapter.....

Input Sensitivity
0.1-4.0V (RCA Input)
1.5-30.0V (Speaker Level Input)
 
#98 ·
Love this thread. I'm still on the fence, waiting for winter to end to get started on the audio upgrade. I just can't give up any trunk floor space as it is all needed for luggage. So, I'm still leaning towards just replacing the stock sub with something better, and maybe a dedicated sub amp. I'm not looking for a loud thumper sound, just something a bit better than what we have. This Tang Band was listed earlier in the thread. Has anyone tried it? Could it be improved with a sealed or ported box mounted under it?

https://www.parts-express.com/tang-...&PID=6168203&SID=jst0yssvb5011de20005c&cjevent=9c02ff903dc211e98290015f0a24060f
 
#99 ·
Has anyone found a direct replacement for the subwoofer? Take out the old, swap in the new, without modifications.

My interest in upgrading this audio system has waned to only that component. For me personally, it's not worth bothering with the rest.
 
#101 ·
Still loving this thread, still haven't pulled the trigger on an upgrade, but still wanting to! I sent a message to www.woofersetc.com asking for help upgrading just the sub-woofer in my HK Giulia. After a few weeks, I finally got a reply. The reply listed three CDT 6x9 speakers. similar to what @Teebsa posted above. The reply also had 3 amp choices, dedicated to drive the new sub-woofer. The fellow also discussed adding a capacitor to limit the frequencies going to the sub-woofer, (it has been posted that the HK system is sending a full frequency signal to the sub, and that an improvement can be made by limiting the frequency to this driver) and the possibility of a warning light on the IP (instrument panel). I really need to follow-up with this place. Come-on folks, let's keep this thread going! @elambo @jwq2 @peczenij Please any upgrades that you may have done.
 
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#102 ·
I have found an Alpine 6x9 speaker that has seperate connectors for woofer and mid/tweeters. Will be connecting the woofer section only ( of course). I am almost sure that the low pass frequency is pre set from the HK system already. Adding a coil also requires additional amp power. Will follow up once i complete this upgrade.
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#103 ·
@cqvd330 , please post your results! You say: "I am almost sure that the low pass frequency is pre set from the HK system already. " I would have assumed the same, but I read in a prior thread that this is not the case. I wish that I knew how to verify, or test this. @MacGeek , do you know? For me, I would be ok with buying another small dedicated amp to power a new dedicated 6x9 sub-woofer, even if I had to run a separate volume control up to the cockpit. This additional amp could be mounted under the trunk floor covering or attached to the underside of the rear shelf. This would not really effect the trunk (luggage space) volume, which is of importance to me. Keep this thread going!
 
#105 ·
I have already replaced the factory speakers with Hertz Mille 3-way up front and 2-way in rear. The factory amp seems to have the mids crossed over at about 200hz so for the time being (until I get my BitOneHD installed) I'll have to deal with some resonance from the mids at higher volumes. I haven't started on the trunk yet as I'm still trying to figure out some things. I have 3 Arc Audio 4200SE amps to drive everything active and an Arc Audio 2150SE am for my two JL Audio 12TW3-D4 subs. My question is where to tap the BitOne in? Pre factory amp or post factory amp? I don't want to have to deal with any warning lights on dash.
 
#106 ·
Hey guys, do any of you know what the wire colors/pinouts are for the factory amp in the trunk? I am going to add a sub but can’t seem to find the info. About the only thing I can figure out for sure is that the violet and violet/black wires from the factory amp go to the factory sub. I have also searched over in the alfaowners forum as well but all of the threads that have the diagrams now have broken links so no diagrams or pictures. I’d really appreciate it if someone here wouldn’t mind pointing me in right direction or providing the info if you have it. Thank you and I apologize in advance if I overlooked a thread or two.
 
#108 ·
@jwq2 , I would love to have this, in English.
 
#109 · (Edited)
@jwq2 , I would love to have this, in English.
yeah, so far I've only found it in separate parts, the italian one is the only complete overview I've found. However, even if you don't speak Italian (which I don't), you can at least get a good idea of the configuration and connections ;)

example english:
 

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#111 ·
#117 ·
Somebody from the Stelvio forum probed it and got 4.1ohms so that is what i was looking for.
Will proceed with the 6x9 swap and will update.
cheers