[stocki]

I did not have a check engine light on. It was a soft code only seen when checking for codes. I unplugged the relay that @stocki said not too and he was right. The car did not like that so the intercooler code was from that I believe. But the u1008-00 is there always

100% same here.
No CEL but a "soft code" because of the LIN error.

You don't even notice the temp issue under "normal" slow traffic conditions.

 

[bhvrdr]

Thats pretty scary. The way i drive this car having 200 degree intake air temps because of a relay could result in significant damage.

 

[bhvrdr]

Going in glovebox

2014-2025 Mopar Electrical Relay 6106093AA | My Mopar Parts

2014-2025 Mopar part # 6106093AA - Electrical Relay

www.mymoparparts.com

 

[Computerfixusa]

Thats pretty scary. The way i drive this car having 200 degree intake air temps because of a relay could result in significant damage.

Yeah I basically went to get on the highway the other day and floored it like I normally do and noticed the car was a little sluggish. Like it was only at 20psi or so. I have the squadra dongle always plugged in and scrolling through the settings I seen I was at 300f in and 203f out on my air temp. So I instantly babied the car and it still has some get up to her but doesn’t seem near as fast. If I didn’t have the dongle or knew to start checking temps a normal person would have just kept driving until more damage occurred. No check engine light or anything.
So I do think it’s a good idea to keep a spare in glove box and monitor the temps when things just don’t feel right because the car didn’t trip a cel or anything.

 

[JeFizz]

I would love to see a pic of a bad one so we know what is old and new. When do we think they revised the relay? @Computerfixusa what year are you?

 

[Computerfixusa]

I would love to see a pic of a bad one so we know what is old and new. When do we think they revised the relay? @Computerfixusa what year are you?

I’m 2017 q4

 

[JeFizz]

That thing is buried if it's where I think it is. behind and below the passenger headlight? Must need to take off the passenger front wheel well liner to get to. My arm couldn't get through the hole from the top.

 

[Computerfixusa]

Lol the relay from mopar says out of stock. I’m going to go to the parts store after work and see if I can get one. I have the part number beta gave as well as the old part number. At this point I just need a relay that works. I’ll update later today if this was the fix and it looks like it’s like a $13-$30 fix and unplug old and plug in new. If this does fix the car I’ll be very happy and yet very peed off it was something so cheap and stupid.

 

[Computerfixusa]

That thing is buried if it's where I think it is. behind and below the passenger headlight? Must need to take off the passenger front wheel well liner to get to. My arm couldn't get through the hole from the top.

Yeah I tried the same at break here at work and I could almost get a arm in there but couldn’t hardly get it out. It’s a very tight squeeze but when I get home I’ll tear it apart and change it.

Also @Beta Romeo I only seen two banks of relays not 3 banks like your diagram shows. Am I right or just not seeing the third. I was kind of blinded by the sun

 

[Twissle]

I've just opened up the front wheel well, there is 3 relays there but like you I could only see 2 from the top. They are clipped on to a rail and from the wheel well can easily be popped. Off. Then just take the black plastic cover off and that reveals the 2 relays inside. I took both out and they were spotless, no signs of water ingress or carbon build up on the terminals.

I had the same "sluggish" symptoms back in January in very cold ambient temps.

 

[Drew]

This is very interesting. I was attributing it to outside temps, but my car has been feeling sluggish the last couple weeks. I will plug in MES and check codes and log the temps in JB4.

 

[Twissle]

@Beta Romeo, how are these relays failing? Is the coil going open circuit/high resistance or is it the contacts that are failing?

 

[Computerfixusa]

I've just opened up the front wheel well, there is 3 relays there but like you I could only see 2 from the top. They are clipped on to a rail and from the wheel well can easily be popped. Off. Then just take the black plastic cover off and that reveals the 2 relays inside. I took both out and they were spotless, no signs of water ingress or carbon build up on the terminals.

I had the same "sluggish" symptoms back in January in very cold ambient temps.

Awesome thank you very much.

This is very interesting. I was attributing it to outside temps, but my car has been feeling sluggish the last couple weeks. I will plug in MES and check codes and log the temps in JB4.

I would definitely look at the temps to be certain. If these relays fail then Alfa should have them fail to the good side that don’t bypass the heat exchanger instead. Just my .02

 

[stocki]

I would definitely look at the temps to be certain. If these relays fail then Alfa should have them fail to the good side that don’t bypass the heat exchanger instead. Just my .02

I think you're mixing things up now.
The relays aren't involved in the bypass valve/thermostat.

 

[Computerfixusa]

You are right

 

[Beta Romeo]

@Beta Romeo, how are these relays failing? Is the coil going open circuit/high resistance or is it the contacts that are failing?

They're going open. No signs of burn marks on the contacts.

 

[Beta Romeo]

Thats pretty scary. The way i drive this car having 200 degree intake air temps because of a relay could result in significant damage.

Don't be scared. The turbo oil feed orings will burn, leak oil and start a fire before any internal damage to the engine or turbo occurs. 👍

 

[Computerfixusa]

Update: it’s fixed

I went to a dodge dealer and they ordered one and I’ll have it today.
I did go through the wheel wall and you can pop the bracket right off and pull it through the hole to change the relays. Much easier than scraping up my arms and from under the hood I couldn’t line up the relay prongs anyways. So I took out the relay and looked it over and the relay looked fine and brand new. I switched it with the one right next to it and the temps are fine now. It was about 83f in Michigan yesterday and I tried to get it to get hot and the temps got up to 120f.
The problem was in fact the relay just as @Beta Romeo stated He literally nailed it right on head. Today after work I’m getting the new relay and swapping the old one out because I’m not sure what the relay next to the water pump relay is but I don’t want the old one in there lol.

I hope this was a good informative discussion for a lot of us. I also really appreciate all the help and diagrams you guys posted and gave. This was literally diagnosed and fixed in a day where I’m sure the dealer would have just made excuses and such. Maybe update something and say give it time to relearn and basically fight with them for the next month till it’s fixed.

edited first post to give the fix by beta so someone having the same problem don’t have to read through all the posts

 

[Alpha]

Don't be scared. The turbo oil feed orings will burn, leak oil and start a fire before any internal damage to the engine or turbo occurs. 👍

What does the intercooler water pump have to do with the turbo temps?

 

[Computerfixusa]

That coolant line runs to the turbo as far as I believe. It doesn’t use the ht collant system it uses the lt collant system.