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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
spoiler : Post #33 by beta was right and that fixed my issue

Hey guys I have a 17 q4 and once in a while I’ve noticed that my post intercooler temps getting hotter than usual. I use the squadra dongle to see them and confirmed yesterday with MES that they are high. Or the sensor is reading them high not sure which. When I’m really getting on the car entering the highway I can see pre intercooler temps up to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. And normally post intercooler stays 10-35 degrees over ambient. But all of a sudden the car seems to get too almost 200 degrees Fahrenheit so obviously I take it easy until I get home and let her cool down. I called and made a appointment with the dealership and get the w05 recall done also. I’ve checked coolant levels and all is good. Any advice to check out or inform the dealer would be appreciated.
thanks guys
 

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2019 Stelvio Sport with trailer hitch
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Ive never seen higher than 45c post ic iat. 130 or 150mph runs. Check for air in system and properly functioning lt elec water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I checked the codes yesterday and had none. I also popped off the small tube that goes to the top of the expansion tank and coolant was flowing through it. I believe that the pump is running but I’m not sure if it’s running like it should be. As I understand the pump speed is controlled by the ecm and adjusts the speed higher as you punch the pedal down or as the need for it goes up. When mine gets to 200 I cannot get it to recover while driving and lower the temps. It’s just too hot at this point. I’ve gotten the temps to come down to 155 but as soon as I take off it’s back up too like 180. It’s almost like the thermal I put is higher than what the intercooler can cool which makes me believe pump isn’t run and as should be , air in the system, or a clogged heat exchanger, something.
How would I go about bleeding the air out? On my Ion redline the heat exchanger had a bleeder that bled air out continuously

I appreciate the help guys
 

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I checked the codes yesterday and had none. I also popped off the small tube that goes to the top of the expansion tank and coolant was flowing through it. I believe that the pump is running but I’m not sure if it’s running like it should be. As I understand the pump speed is controlled by the ecm and adjusts the speed higher as you punch the pedal down or as the need for it goes up. When mine gets to 200 I cannot get it to recover while driving and lower the temps. It’s just too hot at this point. I’ve gotten the temps to come down to 155 but as soon as I take off it’s back up too like 180. It’s almost like the thermal I put is higher than what the intercooler can cool which makes me believe pump isn’t run and as should be , air in the system, or a clogged heat exchanger, something.
How would I go about bleeding the air out? On my Ion redline the heat exchanger had a bleeder that bled air out continuously

I appreciate the help guys
i wouldn’t go but the dongle. MES is more accurate.
 

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Mine seems to sit in the 35-45C range when I was doing my testing. This highway driving in the summer with pulls here and there so I wasn't really pushing the system too hard.

I also noticed that if I drove for a while without building boost, the coolant in the intercooler loop would drop a few degrees when first hitting boost before going back up. That indicated to me that the flow is very slow/low when not on boost so the coolant in the heat exchanger spends lots of time there to get as cold as possible giving max performance for short burst which it typically all people really do when driving normally.

Now this leads me to wonder if your pump is no receiving the signal to speed up the flow when it needs to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mine seems to sit in the 35-45C range when I was doing my testing. This highway driving in the summer with pulls here and there so I wasn't really pushing the system too hard.

I also noticed that if I drove for a while without building boost, the coolant in the intercooler loop would drop a few degrees when first hitting boost before going back up. That indicated to me that the flow is very slow/low when not on boost so the coolant in the heat exchanger spends lots of time there to get as cold as possible giving max performance for short burst which it typically all people really do when driving normally.

Now this leads me to wonder if your pump is no receiving the signal to speed up the flow when it needs to?
that is what I was wondering too. I know it’s flowing but I have no way to check if it’s speeding up or not.
And I have double checked what my dongle showed with Multiecuscan and they both read the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
U1008-00 LIN serial line

Connection from the "rear" ecu connector at pin #60 to the pump connector pin #2 is fine.
No obvious damage to any wiring.

My guess is a faulty pump / pump electronics.
I actually believe I had that code also. I flashed my car back to stock right before checking the codes so I assumed it was from flashing and cleared it without giving it a second thought. I’ll check when I get out of work and see if that is in fact the code but I remember it pertaining to the ecu. I did check the wiring and it all appears fine but who knows. When I put my hand on the hoses you could grab the hose and squeeze it. They were not too hot to touch but warm from the radiant heat from the long drive home.
Any way with multiecuscan to change the speed of the pump or anything?
 

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I actually believe I had that code also. I flashed my car back to stock right before checking the codes so I assumed it was from flashing and cleared it without giving it a second thought. I’ll check when I get out of work and see if that is in fact the code but I remember it pertaining to the ecu. I did check the wiring and it all appears fine but who knows. When I put my hand on the hoses you could grab the hose and squeeze it. They were not too hot to touch but warm from the radiant heat from the long drive home.
Any way with multiecuscan to change the speed of the pump or anything?
If you have a PWM issue id get it fixed by warranty.

Otherwise a person with a healthy car can experiment with bypassing the pwm wire to see if the pump will go into emergency 100 percent run mode like the audis are programmed to do but i seem to recall in reading the afa romeo self study that when our pwm malfunctions it actually shuts the pump down. That would suck


Edited...

112374



112375
 

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So reading the above and looking at the plug...if its reresentative....

112377


...it looks like we have a dumb pump (not pwm controlled) but then the pwm controlled valve...

112378



I wonder what happens if we simply bypass this coolant bypass valve? Just pull it out and run it looped to the front heat exchanger full time and just tie off the coolant bpv somewhere leaving it plugged in so we get no faults.
 
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