Perhaps dead thread but my ‘17 Q4 appears to have similar issue. What’s weird though is first I have no codes at all. Second, my MES readings appear to be crazy baseline inaccurate. It shows ambient temp to be 60c when it’s more like 17c confirmed on my dash cluster. I have read ambient sensor fails ( located in pass side side view mirror)
When cruising, IAT / boost temps are close to supposed ambient (60c) but when going to WOT IAT / boost temps wacks up to 125c Instantly.
For those who measured, what wot iat/boosted temps were u getting?? I’ve read conflicting info; some state up to twice over ambient and some state only 20c over ambient. Relay test starting soon

 

Perhaps dead thread but my ‘17 Q4 appears to have similar issue. What’s weird though is first I have no codes at all. Second, my MES readings appear to be crazy baseline inaccurate. It shows ambient temp to be 60c when it’s more like 17c confirmed on my dash cluster. I have read ambient sensor fails ( located in pass side side view mirror)
When cruising, IAT / boost temps are close to supposed ambient (60c) but when going to WOT IAT / boost temps wacks up to 125c Instantly.
For those who measured, what wot iat/boosted temps were u getting?? I’ve read conflicting info; some state up to twice over ambient and some state only 20c over ambient. Relay test starting soon

Post intercooler I see 10C over ambient all the way to double ambient depending on a lot of factors like air flow and what not

Pre intercooler it can spike up to 150C but 125C seems normal for full boost, atleast from what I have seen

If your seeing 60C or more post intercooler while on the highway for like 5 minutes and it's not dropping your pump likely isn't pumping

 

Is there an, other than OE, relay that anyone can recommend? Like with the starter relay, there is a NAPA Echlin number that works, and is readily available for an honest price.

 

I found this on ALFABB.com... It shows a GM relay Part number 96484304 which is supposed to be a replacement for the 06106094AA. If it works correctly, it would be an inexpensive alternative.

Giulia/Stelvio Starter relay interchange

General Purpose Relay Mopar 06106093AA Micro plug relay This part is compatible with 104 vehicle(s).ELECTRICAL MICRO RELAY PLUG Part number: 06106093AA, 11129885; 68200317AA; 68365733AA; 68094362AA; 06106092AA; 6106093AA; 6106094AA A suitable substitute AC Delco Multi Purpose Relay-GM Original...

www.alfabb.com

Amazon.com: GM Genuine Parts 96484304 Multi-Purpose Relay : Automotive

Buy GM Genuine Parts 96484304 Multi-Purpose Relay: Relay Control Module - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

@Gtv2000, did you simply swap around relays, or install new one(s)? Did you snap any images with locations?

 

Just swapped
here’s a link to price Alfa relays

 

I hadn't noticed any change in my 2017 Q4, but after reading this post and a couple others like it, I hooked up MES and sure enough...

So I went ahead and logged the temps on my drive to work if anyone is interested

The morning actual ambient air temp was more like 20-25C

Ive already ordered 2 of the GM relays - one as a replacement and another as a backup! Thanks guys

 

While I’m all for sourcing the best part, for the best price, does anyone think that this could cause a possible warranty exclusion, should a problem arise?

 

What warranty? 🙃
But you bring up a good question, which is the "best part"- so I was curious and did a bit of research:




Here is a comparison of the internals of the Fiat 34F231002 and the GM 96484304.

I pulled both of the relays that were in the middle relay "pack" in the passenger side wheel well under the headlight, and I purchased two of the GM relays.

The main apparent difference is the presence of a 680-ohm resistor between pins 85 and 86 on the Fiat relay, and not one on the GM relay.

I'm not an electrical engineer, but my guess is the purpose of the resistor is so that the computer can detect a failed relay. But for thoroughness, I measured the resistance between pins 85 and 86 on all 4 of the relays:

	Relay A (disassembled)	Relay B (intact)
Fiat 34F231002	91.1 ohm	91.7 ohm
GM 96484304	91.2 ohm	90.6 ohm

Otherwise, I would have to say that generally the build quality on the Fiat just seems better in general, even though these are a current point of failure and have been superseded.

From these findings, I've ordered a MOPAR 6106094AA and will compare it as well.

 

What warranty? 🙃
But you bring up a good question, which is the "best part"- so I was curious and did a bit of research:




Here is a comparison of the internals of the Fiat 34F231002 and the GM 96484304.

I pulled both of the relays that were in the middle relay "pack" in the passenger side wheel well under the headlight, and I purchased two of the GM relays.

The main apparent difference is the presence of a 680-ohm resistor between pins 85 and 86 on the Fiat relay, and not one on the GM relay.

I'm not an electrical engineer, but my guess is the purpose of the resistor is so that the computer can detect a failed relay. But for thoroughness, I measured the resistance between pins 85 and 86 on all 4 of the relays:

	Relay A (disassembled)	Relay B (intact)
Fiat 34F231002	91.1 ohm	91.7 ohm
GM 96484304	91.2 ohm	90.6 ohm

Otherwise, I would have to say that generally the build quality on the Fiat just seems better in general, even though these are a current point of failure and have been superseded.

From these findings, I've ordered a MOPAR 6106094AA and will compare it as well.

Way ahead of you.

Replacing problematic relays

There are several threads about various issues caused by relays so will try to put helpful info here. What I have gathered (please point out any errors): Some problematic relays are located on a mounted wire harness containing 3 banks behind the passenger headlight: passenger wheel well...

www.giuliaforums.com

 

Using the updated MOPAR relay number 6106094AA should not..

 

I also recently noticed the “U008-00-lin” soft code, too.

I used MES to log and chart ‘Air Temperature’ and ‘Air Temperature (Boost/Manifold) but saw no reduction in Boost/Manifold temperatures after replacing the relay (the soft code did not return).

Can someone confirm that Boost/Manifold temperature is the correct parameter to log to verify that the Intercooler pump is working correctly? I ran through the list of parameters and suspect that “Lambda temperature (intake)” might be the correct parameter for post Intercooler temps…

 

I don't remember, but the lower of the two temps is the real IAT. So, if you changed the relay and that temp didn't change much, then that relay was not a problem.

 

Do you know if U1008-00 error comes always, or only after hard rides when temperatures go too high and ECU starts power limiting seriously? Asking, as in June I've been on track, and each ride after approx 2.5 minuts of hard push I had deep power loses which were increasing (previous 2 times I been on track, such didn't happen, but that was long time earlier, and ambient temperatures were lower - this time it was like 25C deg outside) - course was 3 minutes total, so accelerations after last turns my car was like at half or less power. I have ECU tune (first time on the track with it), and EGT limiter was lowered (EU settings default was 1160C, US setting I know from tuner is 1065C (probably EU set higher for different setup to meet emissions), it is set in mine to 999C just for safety now).
I didn't have any DTC code on the dash, nor when I checked now with MES I don't have any. I haven't noticed any odds in car operation since, but did only normal use of the car.
What do you think? I will get laptop and do test ride today to see how manifold temperature chart looks like during a few hard accelerations on motorway.

Just in case to keep as backup I ordered 6 Bosch relays, thoretically compatible at least with predecessor number of our 30A (11129885 used on older Alfas), OEMs are too expensive IMHO, Bosch hopefully will do if needed.

 

I did run yesterday on highway pushing car from low rpms to higher whenever traffic allowed. here is my picture (sorry photo only and Y scale cut). In short air intake/manifold temperature goes up to 140-155C (max peak shown) deg in my case (car is remapped to 310HP/470Nm). I consulted with my friend (kozak, you may know his experience on modding 2.0), that temperature is one after turbine, before IC. Temperature after IC which is sucked used by engine is Air temperature - during hard pushes it was at level of 40-45C deg, only when I finished and went to local roads and stopped on traffic lights it went up to 55C deg max - probably as pump was already switched off (it was low Air temperature, lower than boost/manifold temperature) but reasib was everthing around was hot. I think it is all OK, especially as my naturally aspirated 3.0 V6 12V spider normally reaches 65C deg intake temperature once fully warmed up due to surrounding heat sources under the bonet.

anyway, I have spare relays, already used a few to replace ones in my spider instead (I suffered uneven idling sometimes and non smooth gas reactions, and all sensors etc were already changed, fuel system cleaned etc, so started looking at possible sources in the same relays as potentially worn (23 years).

 

Alfisti friends, lately on my 2.0 Giulia Veloce 280bhp version, I've been feeling sluggish acceleration and (very) decreased top speed, specially after running the engine for a few Kms.

I've noticed that even after a 100km run in the highway I can open the expansion tank for the IC (driver side tank) without any pressure, not any water movement, and I can even put my finger there and the water is cold, or I'd say ambient temperature.

Can this indicate I also have the problem with that relay?

I don't have MES , I do have Torque pro, is there a way I can read the intake temperature? I only managed to check coolant temperature, and Intake air temperature seems not to be available.

Thanks in advance.

 

Just swap the relay out with the rear defrost. Should be easy to see if there's a difference

 

Yeah just wondering if there would be other option before having to remove the front wheel liner.

Thanks.

 

Is this location for the IC pump Relay on a 2017 2.0 Giulia ?

I ask because I've read that 2017 don't have the 3 sockets, and I would like to know which relay to change before starting to dismount the front wheel liner.

 

Is this location for the IC pump Relay on a 2017 2.0 Giulia ?

I ask because I've read that 2017 don't have the 3 sockets, and I would like to know which relay to change before starting to dismount the front wheel liner.

View attachment 135336

On my 7-17 Giulia it was socket closest to engine. Pop the hood and there’s a opening to access that socket but cannot say that’s the IC pump relay.

 

Ok, I has access to MES and that U-xxxx something error was there. Put the new relay started the car and everything is good, no more errors.

Still, I feel, sometimes the acceleration a bit sluggish, like if something was holding the car back before releasing it, either way on a test road I still was able to get to 23x and was still pushing, so I guess it won't be turbo or some crack in a hose, because if it was something like that, I'd assume I'd never be able to create boost.

Spark Plugs were changed 1 year ago (10k km ago also), and filter, oil, etc was just changed on the 65K km regular maintenance.

Any ideas what it can be ?

 

I have some questions, I dont have the soft code and the car to me doesn't feel sluggish. JB4 is logging iat's at like 112-130 ish F. I have no idea if JB4 is logging this correctly. In stop and go i've seen it hit like 142F. Ive never seen it higher than that tho. I ordered the panasonic relay anyways. Do you think my relays are feeling? All these temps where around ambient temps around 80f

 

Sounds about right. When off the throttle, there is a bypass valve that switches so it doesn't go through the heat exchanger in order to raise temps for fuel efficiency. When you get back on the throttle it switches again and temps should drop fairly fast.

 

Can anyone clarify exactly which parameter measures post intercooler temps in MES, I've read that it is "Air Temp" and not "Air Temp (Boost/Manifold)" - is this correct?

Edit: I’ll answer my own question - “Air Temp” is the correct parameter.

 

If we can cycle back to the egr whine issue again. Is there a relay that controls this? I drove the car today and stopped at 2pm. Came out at 10pm (8 hrs) and heard the egr whine noise. Turned the car on for a minute and back off and whine noise stopped. Checked battery and it read 12.21v Normally this is around 12.6v. If I hadn’t found this when I did, battery would have been dead by morning. Dead batteries maybe tied to this problem.

 

Or stuck relay.

 

Can someone explain why the EGR thingamabobba (also explain what it is) has to run after the engine is off? I can understand circulating coolant through the turbo...

 

How was you measuring your temps?

 

I got same error, check engine and stuck in "N" position yesterday. Earased errors with MES and chcecked that thread today. I'm not sure where that relay is located in MY18 (december) EU Giulia. Can someone assist? Would you guys replace it if temp. parameters are okay? Other thing making me worried is that I had to run with that 100 km yesterday and oil level dropped according to on-board sensor. I hope that I didn't burn turbo's orings..