Update: it’s fixed

I went to a dodge dealer and they ordered one and I’ll have it today.
I did go through the wheel wall and you can pop the bracket right off and pull it through the hole to change the relays. Much easier than scraping up my arms and from under the hood I couldn’t line up the relay prongs anyways. So I took out the relay and looked it over and the relay looked fine and brand new. I switched it with the one right next to it and the temps are fine now. It was about 83f in Michigan yesterday and I tried to get it to get hot and the temps got up to 120f.
The problem was in fact the relay just as @Beta Romeo stated He literally nailed it right on head. Today after work I’m getting the new relay and swapping the old one out because I’m not sure what the relay next to the water pump relay is but I don’t want the old one in there lol.

I hope this was a good informative discussion for a lot of us. I also really appreciate all the help and diagrams you guys posted and gave. This was literally diagnosed and fixed in a day where I’m sure the dealer would have just made excuses and such. Maybe update something and say give it time to relearn and basically fight with them for the next month till it’s fixed.

edited first post to give the fix by beta so someone having the same problem don’t have to read through all the posts

 

Update: it’s fixed

I went to a dodge dealer and they ordered one and I’ll have it today.
I did go through the wheel wall and you can pop the bracket right off and pull it through the hole to change the relays. Much easier than scraping up my arms and from under the hood I couldn’t line up the relay prongs anyways. So I took out the relay and looked it over and the relay looked fine and brand new. I switched it with the one right next to it and the temps are fine now. It was about 83f in Michigan yesterday and I tried to get it to get hot and the temps got up to 120f.
The problem was in fact the relay just as @Beta Romeo stated He literally nailed it right on head. Today after work I’m getting the new relay and swapping the old one out because I’m not sure what the relay next to the water pump relay is but I don’t want the old one in there lol.

I hope this was a good informative discussion for a lot of us. I also really appreciate all the help and diagrams you guys posted and gave. This was literally diagnosed and fixed in a day where I’m sure the dealer would have just made excuses and such. Maybe update something and say give it time to relearn and basically fight with them for the next month till it’s fixed.

edited first post to give the fix by beta so someone having the same problem don’t have to read through all the posts

Thanks! That's good to hear.

I went on a test drive with a tech yesterday and they confirmed the issue. Looks like the temperature readings from MultiEcuScan match with WiTech 😉
Since I've scheduled an oil change and service on monday anyways, they will look into it then.

@Computerfixusa did you remove the whole wheel well cover or just the small access panel for the headlights? I didn't see a thing when I removed the small panel yesterday...

 

That coolant line runs to the turbo as far as I believe. It doesn’t use the ht collant system it uses the lt collant system.

 

Seems to be the case

 

The turbo is not in the TCV circuit as far as I can tell

I'm actually a bit surprised the turbo is even on the low temp cooling system. It seems like it's an unneeded heat load.

 

For the record most turbo cooling during operation is from the oil flow. The water cooling circuit is mostly there for after the engine is shutoff to get rid of heat soak from the housing and manifold... That's actually done by natural circulation.

 

Yeah it is a added heat source to our water temps but the heat exchanger can dissipate way more heat than what the turbo adds. When the cooling system works correctly (finally) it definitely doesn’t have trouble keeping the air temps pretty low. I’d like to see a little closer to ambient temps but that would probably come at a cost to flow. On my ion redline the intercooler was built into the intake with 4 laminova intercooler cores. We would change the flow direction from zig zag to a dual pass and temps would stay 10-15f over ambient. However that’s flowing over 4 intercooler cores. I’m sure that hurts the flow compared to what the Alfa has

 

Man, I knew it! @Beta Romeo what do those other 2 relays do? I ordered the relay but won't get here until early July. I will check my local dodge dealer if they can get it faster. I would rather swap the relay with one of the adjacent ones, assuming the bad relay doesn't make a big difference plugged in somewhere else.

 

I would use a relay from the back of the car, rear fuse box. Something like the rear defroster or power seat. All of the relays in the front are pretty important.

 

Ok so they are all same relay. I'll do rear defrost for sure.

 

Oh wow.

Who knows how many people are driving around with a broken IC system...

Time for a recall / TSB from Alfa?
Chatting with my techs, Alfa doesn't give a *** about what the techs report to them...
Is that any different in the US? @Beta Romeo

 

@AlfaRomeoCares I believe that maybe you should get the ball rolling, if you can, so this hidden gremlin is fixed. This should absolutely throw a light/code.

 

Couldn't resist and swapped the defrost relay for the pump relay.
Looks like it's fixed.
35° C ambient temp, 47-52° C water temp.
Only did a short drive (< 5 minutes) and the car has been standing in the sun for hours.
Right after hitting the throttle for the first time, the water temp fell from 55° C to 47° C.

I'll do further testing tomorrow.

I've attached a few pictures...

 

2 years later.
Exactly the same issue again.
Just fixed it a few minutes ago. Unbelievable.

 

Whereabouts is the electrical panel for the defrost fuse?

 

 

@JeFizz, thanks I had a hunch it was inside that black box

 

Since I fixed mine the temps actually go down most of the time when I’m getting on her hard Sitting still in traffic it’ll get to 120f-130f but lower as soon as I really get moving. Yesterday the wcac temp was at 102f and it was like 83f or so outside so that was really good When things are working properly the car can keep the temps under control quite well at this power level. I’m Michigan anyways not sure about in the smoking hot climates

 

Since I fixed mine the temps actually go down most of the time when I’m getting on her hard Sitting still in traffic it’ll get to 120f-130f but lower as soon as I really get moving.

That's as described in the documentation. Pump speed is dependant on engine load.

 

Another one with this code! I'll swap the relay with the rear screen and see if it clears. It's showing as an active error for me. Also as you can see an intermittent Egr error.

 

Sorry, one other thing, in MES, which parameter is post intercooler temp? I have boost/manifold temp which at idle is at 50 degrees C. I'm guessing this is the one? Thanks

 

I don't remember the exact names of the parameters, but I do remember that it's the one that doesn't make sense. MES has them mixed up.

 

So for those of use who don't have MES would there be any way of knowing about this issue short of buying that squadra tuning module thing (seems a bit too expensive IMO)?

 

Just check if your car can accelerate from 0 to 100 mph 10 times in a row without a cooldown phase.

 

Swap the relay with the rear defrost or similar and see if that stops working. If it does then the relay is toast. I suppose that might be difficult in warm weather. Maybe there is another system you could transpose the relay with?

 

So I had this code, initially showing as "present". I swapped the relay with the rear defrost and cleared all codes. I've probably done in the region of 300 miles since swapping relays. I've just checked the ECU logs and the code is back this time showing intermittent and logged approx 200 miles ago.

One thing I noticed when swapping the relays was how much tighter the rear defrost relay was in the socket/housing. The LT pump relay came out extremely easy and once inserted does not feel anywhere near as secure as the rear defrost position. This reminded me of faults we get on and Alternator solenoid on a Train hydro driveline. The female sockets start to splay due to temperature fluctuations and then trigger intermittent solenoid open circuit faults. Is this potentially what we are seeing here? I have some conductive compound paste at work that we use to coat the solenoid terminals when this error happens, I am going to put some on the the male terminals of the relay and also see if I can close the female sockets as well and see if the fault clears for good.

 

So I had this code, initially showing as "present". I swapped the relay with the rear defrost and cleared all codes. I've probably done in the region of 300 miles since swapping relays. I've just checked the ECU logs and the code is back this time showing intermittent and logged approx 200 miles ago.

One thing I noticed when swapping the relays was how much tighter the rear defrost relay was in the socket/housing. The LT pump relay came out extremely easy and once inserted does not feel anywhere near as secure as the rear defrost position. This reminded me of faults we get on and Alternator solenoid on a Train hydro driveline. The female sockets start to splay due to temperature fluctuations and then trigger intermittent solenoid open circuit faults. Is this potentially what we are seeing here? I have some conductive compound paste at work that we use to coat the solenoid terminals when this error happens, I am going to put some on the the male terminals of the relay and also see if I can close the female sockets as well and see if the fault clears for good.

Maybe the updated relay part number addresses the thickness of the terminals so the harness doesn't need to be replaced to resolve.

 

It might not be a loose connection but it's also not a relay failure in my case either. I'll have a play with it and see how it pans out.

 

So I've figured out where I went wrong. On my car, the relay housing/loom was the inner most not the middle assembly as per Beta Romeo's diagram showing location of said relay, so i had inadvertentlyswapped the wrong relay. I've noticed on the UK forum there seems to be a variation in what position the looms are clipped on to the rail. Something to be mindful of. Just look for the loom with the white/violet cable. That's the loom that goes to the pump relay.

 

I looked all three looms and didn’t see white/violet or what would appear to be those colors. Any other distinguishing marks etc that would differentiate this particular loom? I guess I could jump the the multi pin plug to see if the pump fires up.

 

This thread is invalubale, thank you so much. Should be re-named and stickied

 

Why would the egr valve solenoid "run" after the engine is off? I understand the value of Exhaust Gas Recirculation when the engine is running, but what gain is achieved to run the solenoid for minutes when the engine is off? And the sound; don't most solenoids like this open and close a valve or orifice? Is it cycling so fast that it sounds like a pump running? Many of us believe that a coolant pump continues to run after the engine stops to cool the turbo. Is it silent? Can you put your hand on it and feel it operating after the engine stops?

 

The coolant pump spurts about 5-10 times after you shut the car off. It makes a pulse flow 5 to 10 times. You cant hear it. If you get right up on it its a low hum and slight gurgle as it pulses. You can watch it happen by opening up the turbo coolant bleed valve.


The egr whines just like a throttle body solenoid. Its high pitched. It stays open for a few minutes to prevent itself from getting all gummed up and sticking.

 

hello I had the error u1008-00, I changed the relay and for the moment the error disappeared

 

Interesting posts. I have loss of power. No cel or codes. Checked ic temps; up to 80 c bit whats weird is the mes is indicating ambient is 50c but actual ambient was only 16c. I wonder if my ambient temp sensor is wonky? Where is that sensor? My HVAC is also acting weird. Normally when I leave in manual mode,the ac will not come on When Veh started. Now it always comes on on every start no matter what.

 

For some reason I have it stuck in my head that it's in the passenger side mirror. @Crosshairs @Beta Romeo ?

 

Ive just ran across a thread that seems to confirm that. What’s weird is my ambient temp display appears accurate today bit was reading quite high a few days ago? Ugh this might get tricky?

 

@Gtv2000 , somewhere it was stated that the pump relay was the (only?) relay with 3 wires. Might this be true?

 

The relay is 4 pronged and although I didn’t count the wires there are at least 6 to 8 wires the each relay socket as there are a couple of fuses in each.