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Post intercooler temps high (FIXED)

100K views 151 replies 36 participants last post by  papierbmx  
#1 · (Edited)
spoiler : Post #33 by beta was right and that fixed my issue

Hey guys I have a 17 q4 and once in a while I’ve noticed that my post intercooler temps getting hotter than usual. I use the squadra dongle to see them and confirmed yesterday with MES that they are high. Or the sensor is reading them high not sure which. When I’m really getting on the car entering the highway I can see pre intercooler temps up to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. And normally post intercooler stays 10-35 degrees over ambient. But all of a sudden the car seems to get too almost 200 degrees Fahrenheit so obviously I take it easy until I get home and let her cool down. I called and made a appointment with the dealership and get the w05 recall done also. I’ve checked coolant levels and all is good. Any advice to check out or inform the dealer would be appreciated.
thanks guys
 
#5 ·
I checked the codes yesterday and had none. I also popped off the small tube that goes to the top of the expansion tank and coolant was flowing through it. I believe that the pump is running but I’m not sure if it’s running like it should be. As I understand the pump speed is controlled by the ecm and adjusts the speed higher as you punch the pedal down or as the need for it goes up. When mine gets to 200 I cannot get it to recover while driving and lower the temps. It’s just too hot at this point. I’ve gotten the temps to come down to 155 but as soon as I take off it’s back up too like 180. It’s almost like the thermal I put is higher than what the intercooler can cool which makes me believe pump isn’t run and as should be , air in the system, or a clogged heat exchanger, something.
How would I go about bleeding the air out? On my Ion redline the heat exchanger had a bleeder that bled air out continuously

I appreciate the help guys
 
#7 ·
I checked the codes yesterday and had none. I also popped off the small tube that goes to the top of the expansion tank and coolant was flowing through it. I believe that the pump is running but I’m not sure if it’s running like it should be. As I understand the pump speed is controlled by the ecm and adjusts the speed higher as you punch the pedal down or as the need for it goes up. When mine gets to 200 I cannot get it to recover while driving and lower the temps. It’s just too hot at this point. I’ve gotten the temps to come down to 155 but as soon as I take off it’s back up too like 180. It’s almost like the thermal I put is higher than what the intercooler can cool which makes me believe pump isn’t run and as should be , air in the system, or a clogged heat exchanger, something.
How would I go about bleeding the air out? On my Ion redline the heat exchanger had a bleeder that bled air out continuously

I appreciate the help guys
i wouldn’t go but the dongle. MES is more accurate.
 
#8 ·
Mine seems to sit in the 35-45C range when I was doing my testing. This highway driving in the summer with pulls here and there so I wasn't really pushing the system too hard.

I also noticed that if I drove for a while without building boost, the coolant in the intercooler loop would drop a few degrees when first hitting boost before going back up. That indicated to me that the flow is very slow/low when not on boost so the coolant in the heat exchanger spends lots of time there to get as cold as possible giving max performance for short burst which it typically all people really do when driving normally.

Now this leads me to wonder if your pump is no receiving the signal to speed up the flow when it needs to?
 
#19 ·
So reading the above and looking at the plug...if its reresentative....

112377


...it looks like we have a dumb pump (not pwm controlled) but then the pwm controlled valve...

112378



I wonder what happens if we simply bypass this coolant bypass valve? Just pull it out and run it looped to the front heat exchanger full time and just tie off the coolant bpv somewhere leaving it plugged in so we get no faults.
 
#36 ·
They are superseding the relays. The newest style is a 06106094AA. They look like a different manufacturer. From what I see, the nice thing about these FIAT/Alfa relays is that they have little resistors in them to send back resistance so the control modules can tell when they are not operating correctly. Because of this I wouldn't use a standard 4 pin relay as the car may not throw a code if the new relay fails.
 
#44 ·
Yeah I basically went to get on the highway the other day and floored it like I normally do and noticed the car was a little sluggish. Like it was only at 20psi or so. I have the squadra dongle always plugged in and scrolling through the settings I seen I was at 300f in and 203f out on my air temp. So I instantly babied the car and it still has some get up to her but doesn’t seem near as fast. If I didn’t have the dongle or knew to start checking temps a normal person would have just kept driving until more damage occurred. No check engine light or anything.
So I do think it’s a good idea to keep a spare in glove box and monitor the temps when things just don’t feel right because the car didn’t trip a cel or anything.
 
#45 ·
I would love to see a pic of a bad one so we know what is old and new. When do we think they revised the relay? @Computerfixusa what year are you?
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#47 ·
That thing is buried if it's where I think it is. behind and below the passenger headlight? Must need to take off the passenger front wheel well liner to get to. My arm couldn't get through the hole from the top.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#49 ·
Yeah I tried the same at break here at work and I could almost get a arm in there but couldn’t hardly get it out. It’s a very tight squeeze but when I get home I’ll tear it apart and change it.

Also @Beta Romeo I only seen two banks of relays not 3 banks like your diagram shows. Am I right or just not seeing the third. I was kind of blinded by the sun
 
#48 ·
Lol the relay from mopar says out of stock. I’m going to go to the parts store after work and see if I can get one. I have the part number beta gave as well as the old part number. At this point I just need a relay that works. I’ll update later today if this was the fix and it looks like it’s like a $13-$30 fix and unplug old and plug in new. If this does fix the car I’ll be very happy and yet very peed off it was something so cheap and stupid.
 
#50 ·
I've just opened up the front wheel well, there is 3 relays there but like you I could only see 2 from the top. They are clipped on to a rail and from the wheel well can easily be popped. Off. Then just take the black plastic cover off and that reveals the 2 relays inside. I took both out and they were spotless, no signs of water ingress or carbon build up on the terminals.

I had the same "sluggish" symptoms back in January in very cold ambient temps.
 
#53 ·
Awesome thank you very much.
This is very interesting. I was attributing it to outside temps, but my car has been feeling sluggish the last couple weeks. I will plug in MES and check codes and log the temps in JB4.
I would definitely look at the temps to be certain. If these relays fail then Alfa should have them fail to the good side that don’t bypass the heat exchanger instead. Just my .02