Ellis in Glendale is where we went. "Just going to look" was what my wife said. They're really good if you know Filipino ladies.... Spent the whole Monday there basically, beyond a round trip back home to pick up our son and go to orthodontist, we went back. Very patient and finance lady very professional. Single ask if we were going to get the damage warranty.

 

Started reaching out to a few dealers. Got this deal over email.

36 Months / 10K @ $522 and 3K down.

MSRP 49000 + 800 Dealer accessories (covers, mats , etc.)
Discount - (3200)
Rebate - (3750)
Sale price=~42850
Fees 850
Taxes =~2675

Doesn't sound nearly as good as what others have been getting.

 

https://www.alfaromeousa.com/car-shopping/current-offers

 

I've been over the offers on the manufacturer sites but it doesn't sound like they want to move much in price beyond what they stated. I figured it was time to move on to the next offer.

 

Texas Giulia AWD lease deal



I utilized this site to negotiate my deal. 2017 with 11 miles Giulia Rosso AWD. Pretty loaded. Cold weather package large LCD moon roof rear camera nav and remote start
Closed this on dec 30th. Red with saddle interior.
This was at fortworth tx Alfa Romeo. Preston wheeler is the associate and Brian Martinez helped close the deal.
Msrp - 44040.

Started with asking for lease deal of just one payment plus registration admin costs. At one percent of msrp or 440 per month for 12k miles per year

They came back at 519 per month. Plus 773 registration admin and taxes built into deal. At 10k miles.

Pushed back. Utilized the structure of a deal from the forum from Texas. They wanted a screen print of the deal.
They came back with another offer of 470 per month with everything I wanted.
We closed at 450 per month. 39 month lease with 10k miles ( miles was a negotiation point for me.)
Only first payment upfront. All other costs built into deal.
I thought this was solid at 1.02 percent of msrp.
This site was very helpful and very insightful
Any other information I can provide or questions to help anyone out please ask.

 

Not that long. I closed on a Q70 lease three years ago and over paid. Important thing is to have your proposed structure deal that you want. The more detail the better. It shows you have done your homework. Don't be afraid to walk away. If they want a deal they will call you. Have Alsatian of what you key points are in the deal. Have some nice to haves that you can negotiate such as miles and certain options that are not critical. Good luck to you.

 

Thanks for the pointers. My Alfa is my second car I've ever had so I learned a ton from my experience, as it was really my first time doing the talking myself. I am hopeful for down the road

 

Leasing 101 is don’t put any money down to reduce the capitalized costs. Very few finance companies are doing MSDs anymore to lower the MF. And don’t pay taxes up front if MF is low. And many other “rules” of the game for getting a good lease deal. So all these people throwing figures around with X monthly payment and Y money down mean nothing. What we need to know to determine the cost and relative value of the lease is MSRP, Cap Cost, MF, RV, taxes & fees, rebates & incentives, total drive off, state, etc. it’s all in the Leasehackr calculator. People in CA quoting monthly payments mean little to me in VA because my state taxes the total sales price, not just the rent. So our leases tend to be much more expensive than other states that have lower taxes. In fact taxes alone can add $100+ to the monthly payment. Never mind add-ons like wheel/tire road hazard insurance and other warranty products.

 

Sounds like it's time to open a Montana LLC....no taxes...

 

I’ve been following the various tax avoidance strategies for a while now. Sports Car Market magazine Legal Files has written extensively about it. I am not a lawyer so definitely seek your own legal advice before embarking on such a strategy. See also

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/virginia-goes-after-out-of-state-license-plates.529144/

 

Hi,

Where can I find the lease forum for 2018 Guilia?

 

You're in it already. But if you want more info, here are some useful links

https://forums.edmunds.com/discussi...iscussion/49217/alfa-romeo/giulia/2018-alfa-romeo-guilia-lease-deals-and-prices

https://forum.leasehackr.com/search?q=alfa romeo

 

Possible New Giulia Owner

I've never leased a car, so I'm wondering if this is a good deal. On a 2018 Giulia TI with option packages: Quick Order Package 22S Sport, Dual-Pane Sunroof, Ti Sport Performance Package, Radio: AM/FM/HD Bluetooth w/Nav 8.8, and Driver Assistance Static Package the dealer offered:

39 month Lease @
10k miles per year
51,840 MSRP
7% Taxes on MSRP in my state, IL
7,460 Dealer Discount and rebates
44,380 Final Price
24,833 Residual Value
$599 per month
$599 due at Lease signing

 

I've never leased a car, so I'm wondering if this is a good deal.

Seems like a pretty fair deal to me, although we're missing some critical details to measure the exact value of the lease without doing some alegebra I'm not willing to do right now. Check out the lease FAQ, lease calculator and forums over at Leasehackr for more info. Of course, you can always spend more time and energy dickering with the finance guy who decides what price the car sells at. The worst he can say is no and sell the car to someone else at a different price. Or you can attempt to pit multiple dealers against each other in a competition to win your business (good luck given how apathetic most Alfa dealers are). Or you can fly across the country hunting for a deal at a far flung dealer. Or you can agree on a deal that you're comfortable with and start enjoying your new Alfa Romeo.

 

Can probably do better. Any reason why you're going for 2018 instead of 2017? Think there is something like 5-6k in manufacturer discounts from alfa for 2017s. Thats separate from dealer MSRP discount. If you get 10% off msrp, then 6k from alfa, that would be a much better deal than this.

 

Yes I was looking for a 2017 but currently in the Chicago area there are not many 2017 TI's available with the Quick Order Package 22S Sport.

 

$.50 per mile excess over allowed miles

I leased last week thru Chrysler Capital. Dealer had .25 per mile excess mileage charge on paperwork. They asked me to come in today and sign revised paperwork at .50 per mile. Dealer said they had incorrect amount on original. I’ve never heard of a mileage charge this high. What amount do others have? Thanks!!

 

I leased last week thru Chrysler Capital. Dealer had .25 per mile excess mileage charge on paperwork. They asked me to come in today and sign revised paperwork at .50 per mile. Dealer said they had incorrect amount on original. I’ve never heard of a mileage charge this high. What amount do others have? Thanks!!

I just went to check, with Ally, it’s $0.20/mile over 10k/yr.

 

Wow. Maybe the .50 is just with Chrysler. That’s a crazy difference.

 

I thought Ally = Chrysler. They shouldn’t have made you sign a new one. That’s really a lot of money! Is this for a Quadrifollio?

 

I don’t believe Ally is Chrysler.

 

Nope. Just base motor.

 

I thought Alfa used Ally as well; this is from the footnote of the current lease specials on alfaromeousa.com:

Lessee pays for excess wear and mileage of $0.20/mile for each mile over 10,000 miles per year, if vehicle is returned at end of term. Option to buy at lease end at pre-negotiated price. Dealer’s actual terms may vary. Offer through Ally.

 

See RVguy's original post copied below at https://forum.leasehackr.com/t/ally-financial-leasing/14647/12

There is a lot of talk here about the Fiat Chrysler of America group (Chrysler, Dodge, Fiat, Jeep and Ram) so I’ll hopefully clear up some confusion about the various lenders that lease those products.

FCA uses Santander Bank as their captive lender (DBA Chrysler Capital). They won the bidding war to get the captive status for 10 years. A big pile of money goes to help support the leasing through their captive. At the same time, FCA management created an incentive program called IDL (independent lease or independent dealer lease) that has a separate budget to help non-captive lenders lease FCA models.

Ally, US Bank and credit unions qualify for the IDL program (large cash incentives) while the captive uses the money to buy the MF down and help offset losses when they increase the RV.

The incentive programs change monthly and if you pay attention, you’ll see some trim-specific deals going to the captive while other trims go to the non-captives with IDL money. They switch things up all the time trying to see what sticks so it is hard to see the strategy behind FCA’s decisioning.

Ally Bank is the rebranded name for GM’s former captive (GMAC) which lost the GM captive status when GM Financial started (this was formerly the subprime lender Americredit). Ally’s MO is to set very high RVs with very high rates. They don’t use a MF and the standard monthly payment calculation that other lenders use but instead have what they call Smart Lease which has a different math equation. You can find their residual guide on their website which has the RVs and equation but doesnt have the rates. Those are posted in bulletins to the dealers so you’ll need to find someone to look up the latest ones which are model-specific. Ally is based out of Philly but is national with pockets of very strong dealer networks. Michigan is one of their strongest areas.

US Bank tends to sets lower RVs than Ally but has fairly low MFs that are brand specific. Their lowest MF is on 24-27mo and and it goes up slightly as you move to the longer terms. They offer dealers large flat fees to finance through them ($800 on current FCA brands) if the dealer doesn’t mark the MF up. If the dealer marks the rate up various amounts, US Bank pays 1-4% of the net cap cost to the dealer. US Bank is known to nickel and dime customers on the back end of the lease so only contemplate leasing through them if you take pristine care of your car. There is a long thread on here about US Bank lease turn in horror stories.

Last, but not least, are the various credit unions. There are roughly 35 around the country that are actively leasing and the FCA group of products make up a sizeable chunk of their volume, thanks to IDL. They tend to have much lower cost of funds than the banks and captives so they can set lower MFs. The RVs are set strong on the models they are targeting so their monthly payments are often times the lowest. For FCA that is products that have the IDL money and the Wrangler which doesn’t have any incentive support. You’ll need great credit to get the best MF from the credit union but they pride themselves on the member experience which is up there with the best captives in terms of customer experience. The MF is specific to each credit union and that can vary quite a bit. They include gap insurance and include a $1k excess wear and tear waiver.

To lease through a credit union you have to see if there are any in your area that have a program. You can go to CULA.com6 to see about 21 they work with. MI, WI, IN, CO, NY, PA, FL, OH, MA, NH and NJ are the big credit union states that are leasing with them. You’ll need to find a dealer that is signed up with them, just like ally and us bank. But if you are shopping an FCA model and live in a credit union are, chances are they have signed up all the FCA dealers already.

 

The previous post is consistent with my experience leasing a 2017 through Chrysler Capital. The money factor was virtually zero and they are clearly going to lose money on the residual. My lease has the 50 cent per mile excess mileage charge, which is outrageous, but only comes into play if you misjudge your mileage needs. These are good deals as long as you buy the miles up front.

 

I went to the dealership in Orange Park FL (near Jacksonville). This is the quote I got. It looks crazy and they were trying to convince me that putting money down is the best option since it will bring the monthly payments down. Before he left he said that he can do aroun 550/mo for 36/10k but with almost 4k down.

This is my first time leasing a car please let me know what should I aim for. I have been following this forum and I know I should not put anything down. This Guilia has almost every option including Moonroof, HK system, 8.8 Inch Nav, Safety options including Blind spot, forward collision, performance package ($1200).

P.S My credit score is around 700.

 

Absolutely terrible. Good lord.

*EDIT* Looked closer at the sheet. That dealer is absolutely scamming you. Zero discount, then they get the rebates back by adding a "protection package" and $600 for nitrogen. Greaseballs.

That's $17,200 to drive a car for two years. If it's worth it to you to spend $716 a month (the real cost) then go for it. There are a lot better cars that can be had for that monthly. Can get a manual M3 for that much.

They aren't giving much of a discount at all. I see some dealers offering almost $10k off their $52k cars. Though the numbers won't ever be that attractive, the Alfa lease programs just suck. So not much that can really be done to get a "great deal" in comparison to other manufactures.

 

Quote from my dealer on a lease via text "3250 in rebates at 10,000 miles a year 36 months would be 811 payments" MSRP on mine was 53465. He didn't say what would be due at signing and I didn't ask. I financed instead.

 

If doing a lease do a 2 year instead of a 3 year lease, Ally Financial gives better rates than Chrysler Capital. Doing 300 a month for 2017 with a 46,000 msrp, 750 downpayment.

 

That lease deal sounds awesome. I'm not getting even close to a quote like that. How do you work with Ally? I've seen this mentioned previously but their website says to see a dealer and they don't list Alfa Romeo on the dealer list. They do list the Maserati dealer (which sells AR here).

 

It’s probably a 2017 with a $10k discount in a state with low tax burden.

 

Yup 2017, in Southern Cali, and i still feel like i should of waited longer till they had an even lower stock of 2017's but i just couldnt resist after the test drive.

 

Never put money down on a lease for cap cost reduction. I repeat, never put money down on a lease for cap cost reduction. Let's imagine two scenarios that are unlikely but not impossible. You've leased a new car and you put money down for cap cost reduction (doesn't matter if it was $2k or $22k). You pull out of the dealership parking lot and immediately get rear ended by a dump truck and your car gets totaled with 10 miles on the odometer. Or you're out to dinner celebrating life and your newly purchased Alfa Romeo and when dinner is over and you hand the claim check to the valet you discover your car has been stolen. In both cases you can kiss the entirety of that down payment goodbye. Poof. Gone. Your insurance company and any GAP insurance offered by the lessor will be used to satisfy your debt to the lessor. But there is nothing left over for you. Back to square one.

When interest rates are low like they are now, the finance charges aren't really that much. My preference is to lease a car paying nothing more than the drive-off fees (usually the first monthly payment and title/registration fees). The rest of the costs (taxes, doc fees, etc.) can all be rolled into the lease and paid on a monthly basis. I can afford the monthly payments and I don't mind paying a tiny bit more interest fee to avoid the risk of losing a down payment. Multiple security deposits (MSDs) work best as you can typically buy down the money factor (just like you can buy down points on your home mortgage when refinancing) but they don't go POOF if your car is totaled or stolen. However, very few lessors offer MSDs. BMW used to offer them but not anymore. Even then they were only used on <2% of all leases.

 

Thank you for the informative reply. I had not thought through the lease much as I am still working towards purchasing instead. But it is good to know the financial risks and what is at stake.

 

Nvm:laugh:

 

Got this deal from Erie PA on 2017 Guilia Ti Sports AWD

MSRP 49040. They did not disclose the rebates and discounts. Their website have it marked down to 40,540. But it is pretty loaded. Rosso Competizione Tri-Coat, Ti 19" Sports Package, Driver Assistance Static Package, 8.8 inch with Nav.
The monthly payments is 460-470 incl tax with 2k down including the drive offs. The guy seemed enthusiastic in moving the inventory so they are willing to come down to 440/month incl tax. I am new to the states so my credit is close to 700 may be that is why they asked me put money down.

What do you guys think of this deal? I like silver, gray or black not sure about the red tri-coat. Do you think it will grow on me?

 

Whats the residual, how many months. Tri coat is overkill if it is just a 2 year lease, thats a 2200 extra.

 

If that price they gave you truly is for tier 2 credit, get a co-signer with exceptional credit, and you can drop that payment about $30-45 bucks per month by shooting up to tier 1.

 

Nice idea. I will see if I can find one. Thanks!

 

2018 RWD Ti Sport + Perf Pack + Dynamic and Static + HK Sound + Leather Dash + Tri Coat White
36/12k
MSRP: $53,235
Dealer Discount: $3619
Rebates/Incentives: $3500
Residual: 51%
MF = .000712
$0 down other than first month and dealer doc/license fees
Monthly is $606