How to enable "Race" mode on non-QV 2017-2019

JeFizz · Aug 10, 2019

This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

NOTE: 2020+ with the monostable DNA selector (the one that always reverts to N) does not require a replacement DNA+R dial. All that is needed is the SGW bypass, MES, blue and grey cables, and USB OBD adapter.

Here is a YouTube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!

The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):

You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
1. The MES site has recommendations.
2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
For 2018 + Giulia's (U.S. date of manufacture after February 1st 2018, EU after early April 2018) it is likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM) that prevents unauthorized writing to the vehicles many modules. You need a bypass device.
1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses.
3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.

Now for options!

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have. (Thanks, @shpuncik for the info)

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)

Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
1. Remove the center console pieces.
  1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
  2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
  3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.

Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)

Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though .
Disassemble the DNA selector...
1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part).
4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow).
7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
8. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.

You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).

Micro-switch info for DIY option #1 above:

Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer	C&K
Series	HDP
Circuit	SPST-NO
Switch Function	Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)	1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC	5V
Actuator Type	Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type	Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style	Gull Wing
Features	Board Guide
Pretravel	0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature	-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position	0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0

Manufacturer	TE Connectivity Passive Product
Series	RP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging	Cut Tape (CT)
Part Status	Active
Resistance	147 Ohms
Tolerance	±0.1%
Power (Watts)	0.25W, 1/4W
Composition	Thin Film
Temperature Coefficient	±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature	-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case	0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package	0805
Size / Dimension	0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)	0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations	2

Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:

Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
Click Connect
If older than MES version 4.5:
1. To enter PROXI configuration, go to the Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is )
If MES 4.5 or higher:
1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
  1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
3. Choose one and click OK
Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
Disconnect from the Body module
Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
1. Requires 6/gray cable
Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
3. Pressure sensor calibration
Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
Start vehicle
Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
Turn off vehicle again
Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear

WARNING: If you are unable to successfully complete a PROXI alignment, potentially due to outdated CDCM or other module(s), there is a chance that it will leave you in a sort of hidden limp mode. See @Drew 's post HERE where his flashing odometer was more than just a visual annoyance.

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)

ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
A = A in ECM/BCM
N = N in ECM/BCM
D = D in ECM/BCM
R = No change

Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)

ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
A = N in ECM
A = A in BCM
N = N in ECM
N = N in BCM
D = N in ECM
D = D in BCM
Race Mode =
- Race mode is indicated
- Larger speed indication in center display
- Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
- N in ECM
- D in BCM
- ? in TCM
- Disables FCW
- Disables ASC/TCS

Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)

ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
A = N in ECM
A = A in BCM
N = N in ECM
N = N in BCM
D = N in ECM
D = D in BCM
ASC/TSC off mode =
- Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
- N in ECM
- D in BCM
- ? in TCM
- Disables FCW
- Disables ASC/TCS

CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:

In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.

KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
- Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.

Alfa_obsession · Feb 23, 2020

Got to work this morning and updated my SWG bypass and got race mode unlocked! Thank you JeFizz and Ndion80!

Motoren · Mar 9, 2020

@JeFizz I just installed the new DNA-R Switch and got the Race Mode working (Type3). It was fairly simple when you have a guide (also didn't need the bypass). Just got one scare as the car showed a lot of fails while changing to the blue adapter during the proxy alignment, but as I tried running the proxy again it just worked.
The accel from 0 when you build some boost is awesome without the TC intervention. I will do some more "tests" and then will try Type2.
Have you got a final verdict on the difference between these two modes?
Thank you a lot!

Breakthecycle2 · Apr 2, 2020

So Im planning on doing this is an hour or so. I have the race switch selector cables, interface and bypass. My car is a 19 Q4 Ti Sport. Is there a specific route I should take here as far as the options on page 1?

Alpha · Apr 7, 2020

I haven't kept up, but is this still accurate front the first post?

Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)

ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes

A = A in ECM/BCM

N = N in ECM/BCM

D = D in ECM/BCM

Race Mode =

Race mode is indicated

Larger speed indication in center display

Non-functioning shift indicator in center display

N in ECM

D in BCM

? in TCM

Disables FCW

Disables ASC/TCS

Breakthecycle2 · Apr 7, 2020

From my experience. Yes.

RicoCerda · Apr 11, 2020

What is the main difference between 88=CC and 88=EC?

Looking to do this, but I would like clarification on advantages vs disadvantages between the two.

Also, I have a TI Sport.
Does Race Mode effect effect Dampening or Paddle Shifters?

Thanks!

MODES:

Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)

ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
A = A in ECM/BCM
N = N in ECM/BCM
D = D in ECM/BCM
Race Mode =
- Race mode is indicated
- Larger speed indication in center display
- Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
- N in ECM
- D in BCM
- ? in TCM
- Disables FCW
- Disables ASC/TCS

Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)

ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
A = A in ECM/BCM
N = N in ECM/BCM
D = D in ECM/BCM
ASC/TSC off mode =
- Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
- D in ECM (up for debate that it is actually using the D ECM map, some say it's using N)
- D in BCM
- ? in TCM
- Disables FCW
- Disables ASC/TCS

lockem · May 8, 2020

At least in my car if byte 88 is cc my ECM/PCM (commonly called the Engine Control Module, it is known as the Power Control Module in the service manual) is in N mode regardless of the DNA setting. Other modules such as the BCM, TCM, and CDCM appear to understand the change in byte 88.

On the PCM stuck in N mode subject, does anybody know if it is possible to send different proxy information to the PCM than the other modules? If we could send byte 88 = AC (or whatever original value was used) just to the PCM and send cc or ec to all of the other modules, I think the behavior would be much better. Any Proxy experts out there???

bhvrdr · May 26, 2020

Could i get some clarification on the following thats in the original post?

.......

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)

ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
A = A in ECM/BCM
N = N in ECM/BCM
D = D in ECM/BCM
R = No change

Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)

ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
A = A in ECM/BCM
N = N in ECM/BCM
D = D in ECM/BCM
Race Mode =
- Race mode is indicated
- Larger speed indication in center display
- Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
- N in ECM
- D in BCM
- ? in TCM
- Disables FCW
- Disables ASC/TCS

Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)

ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
A = A in ECM/BCM
N = N in ECM/BCM
D = D in ECM/BCM
ASC/TSC off mode =
- Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
- D in ECM (up for debate that it is actually using the D ECM map, some say it's using N)
- D in BCM
- ? in TCM
- Disables FCW
- Disables ASC/TCS

.....................

From what i have been reading the above is not correct. Do i have this right?

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)

ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
A = A in ECM/BCM
N = N in ECM/BCM
D = D in ECM/BCM
R = No change

Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)

ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
A = N in ECM/BCM (active dampers are SOFT) no reduced power mode anymore.
N = N in ECM/BCM (active dampers are SOFT)
D = N in ECM/BCM (does active suspension work same as stock with MEDIUM setting standard and pressing damper button gives you SOFT)
Race Mode =
- Race mode is indicated
- Larger speed indication in center display
- Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
- N in ECM
- In active suspension cars Dampers go to STIFF rear and SOFT front and pressing damper button gives you MEDIUM front and rear (same as stock dynamic setting)
- ? in TCM
- Disables FCW
- Disables ASC/TCS

Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)

ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
A = A in ECM/BCM (you still have a rain mode with reduced power.
N = N in ECM/BCM
D = D in ECM/BCM (does this mode really exist still? Can you build boost in dynamic mode like stock and get a good launch or does it revert back to N mode?)
ASC/TSC off mode =
- Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
- D in ECM (up for debate that it is actually using the D ECM map, some say it's using N)
- D in BCM
- ? in TCM
- Disables FCW
- Disables ASC/TCS

lockem · May 27, 2020

Transmission control seems to be a cooperative effort of PCM and TCM. With Byte 88 = CC in A mode I observe the slow shifts of A mode but the shift points of N mode; I also observe that in Race mode + manual shift the shifts are extremely fast and precise. I believe that indicates that the TCM implements Race mode properly, but the PCM does not. The adaptive damper issue that you note above can be "fixed" by replacing the CDCM with one that is programmed for a QV, although that seems to make the A mode soft setting harder than it was before (expecting the increased weight and lower suspension of a QV?).

bhvrdr · May 27, 2020

What about the differences between the two CC and EC options as far as does anyone know if the EC mode does in fact retain the A, N, D mode throttle mappings and the A modes reduced power or do we default all that to N mode like in CC mode?

bhvrdr · May 28, 2020

Anyone know?

JippoC · May 28, 2020

Okay. This is awesome but anyone know can I do this for 2.2 TD Europe car.

DeXa · May 31, 2020

We've tested Stelvio diesel. The results were confusing.
Gearbox behaves the same in all modes - shift points were the same in auto. In manual shift times were different (A-Slow, N-Normal, D-faster, R-sharp);
Engine was in N all the time in terms of pedal map and power;
In RACE traction control and stability control was turned off;
@KGB is the guy that tested, maybe he can explain better.

Raw_Alfa · Jun 2, 2020

So which mode is better 2 or 3? I've always ran 2. Is 3 any different besides not seeing race mode?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Raw_Alfa · Jun 2, 2020

So weirdest thing happened to me just now. I have been running type 2 since you had to go into the proxi numbers. I figured I would change it to type three with the updated mes. I went through the entire process and it doesn't want to turn the traction off. It shows it on the screen that it's off when I go into d mode, but it's not off on the dash. So I had to revert it back to type two then it went back to race mode and dash lights. I am thinking of downloading an older version of mes because you can not cntrl c in 4.5+. Anyone run into this issue?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Il_Conte · Jun 2, 2020

Raw_Alfa said:
So weirdest thing happened to me just now. I have been running type 2 since you had to go into the proxi numbers. I figured I would change it to type three with the updated mes. I went through the entire process and it doesn't want to turn the traction off. It shows it on the screen that it's off when I go into d mode, but it's not off on the dash. So I had to revert it back to type two then it went back to race mode and dash lights. I am thinking of downloading an older version of mes because you can not cntrl c in 4.5+. Anyone run into this issue?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Turn off the car for a while and it should go away.
It happened to me and the morning after it was gone

RevToRed · Jun 2, 2020

Do you have MES 4.6? It works fine for me.

Raw_Alfa · Jun 2, 2020

Yes I do. What keys did you use?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

RevToRed · Jun 2, 2020

No keys, just scroll down menus and tabs. I'm using windows 10.

Raw_Alfa · Jun 2, 2020

Screen shot and show me? Please?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Raw_Alfa · Jun 5, 2020

I can not for the life of me get ec to work. CC works just fine and race mode pops up. EC doesn't light up race mode, dash lights for esc do not come on when in EC mode. This is a shame. I want it to be in d instead of n while in race mode.

Who on here uses EC mode? What does it show? Does the dash show esc off? I tried to drive it and spin the tires and I could tell traction was on.

NDion80 · Jun 5, 2020

JeFizz · Jun 5, 2020

As stated in the original post, if you use CC or EC you will never get D. It's the price you pay, and there's no way around it if you want to defeat esc/tsc.

bhvrdr · Jun 5, 2020

Can anyone explain the differences between type 2 and type 3 race mode with respect to the different rdna positions and how the following behaves in each?

1. Throttle mapping
2. Power output
3. Shifting algorithms
4. Active suspension behavior?

Crosshairs · Jun 6, 2020

Just a nit pic... an SGW is a Security Gateway Module not a Software Gateway Module ......😎

JeFizz · Jun 6, 2020

Where do you see that? I'll change it!

RevToRed · Jun 7, 2020

I posted the following in another thread but it also belong here:

I only proxy with Dynamic Control Selector set to Type 3 (ESC off).
When the above is done the DNA acts normally just like stock until the 'Race' mode is selected, then - everything (DNA) becomes N mode as far as throttle/transmission behavior.
To get back the 'normal' behavior you have to restart the car, it again will behave as stock till Race mode is selected.

alexandar.100 · Dec 16, 2021

Hello guys,
Can someone confirm this? After restarting the car, it goes back to the normal behaviour until Race mode is selected? Does it mean that DNA behaves as stock version (throttle response is not N in all modes) after restart?

blisstik · Jun 7, 2020

@RevToRed So when you initially go in R mode, is the transmission in D mode? What about throttle, does it feel like D or more like N?

RevToRed · Jun 8, 2020

It feels like N mode with ESC off.

bhvrdr · Jun 14, 2020

Its been hard getting answers on all of the differences between type 2 and type 3 modes as it pertains to all functions so I did some testing today. Heres what I found, specifically on a Ti sport with active suspension...

Type 3 (DNA/Sport)
A Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Active Efficiency
-Suspension - Soft
-ESC/TC - Regular

N Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Natural
-Suspension - Soft
-ESC/TC - Regular

D Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Dynamic
-Suspension - Dynamic (pressing button gives Soft)
-ESC/TC - Dynamic

R Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Dynamic
-Suspension - Dynamic (pressing button gives Soft)
-ESC/TC - Disabled (full donuts allowed)

Type 2 (DNA/Race)

A Mode (note, because the BCM appears to be expecting advanced efficiency, the natural mode shifting appears to cause conflicts with throttle position and you can invoke ETC faults and limp modes if you put enough full load during A mode)
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Natural
-Suspension - Soft
-ESC/TC - Regular

N Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Natural
-Suspension - Soft
-ESC/TC - Regular

D Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Dynamic
-Suspension - Dynamic (pressing button gives Soft)
-ESC/TC - Dynamic

R Mode
- Engine - Natural
-Transmission - Dynamic or Race (unable to tell difference from dynamic)
-Suspension - Full Soft Front/ Full Stiff Rear (UNSTABLE) - (pressing button gives Dynamic)
-ESC/TC - Disabled (full donuts allowed)

Let me know if this is what you all have found.

Mike

JeFizz · Jun 14, 2020

@bhvrdr Can you verify the following that I have documented in the first post:

Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)

I keep forgetting to check on that.

bhvrdr · Jun 14, 2020

JeFizz said:
@bhvrdr Can you verify the following that I have documented in the first post:

Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)

I keep forgetting to check on that.

You have it right. I actually mixed them up in my post. I just swapped them

blisstik · Jun 16, 2020

@bhvrdr - thanks for that breakdown, the next test, does it improve 0-60? is the Ti stock down to the tires?

bhvrdr · Jun 16, 2020

Right on. The only thing i have on my car now is jb4 which with the press of a button i just switch it to bypass/stock map mode and it turns off.

The race mode likely wont help my RWD acceleration times of 0-60 because the low end torque makes the car somewhat traction limited at launch.

In race mode i can lay down patches of rubber all through first gear which isnt exactly great for 0-60 lol.

In dynamic mode as long as i launch between 1800 and 2200rpm i can avoid excessive wheel spin and avoid bogging from tc intervention.

On an AWD setup this would be totally different. I think race mode would probably give no benefit nor any expense either as you can launch the awd cars as high as the launch limiter allows without excessive wheel spin so the higher rpm you launch the better.

Where race mode will be indispensable IMO is with tight corner work like autocross. Powering out of tight turns in D mode i can invoke ESC to the point it almost stops the car in its tracks. Its really nowhere near the advanced ESC like Porsche which is one of the best in the business. The alfa stability control is not seamless. It will intervene aggressively. On an autocross course youd really need race mode imo.

blisstik · Jun 16, 2020

I’ve got a Q4 and I thought it would understeer a lot but it really feels like a RWD car. Only time I’ve gotten ESC intervene is in the rain.

It does launch pretty consistent on D, esp once I upgraded the tires to Firehawks. I went with a 255 square setup. Also, braking improved as well. Run flats just suck the performance out of this car.

JeFizz · Jun 16, 2020

blisstik said:
I’ve got a Q4 and I thought it would understeer a lot but it really feels like a RWD car. Only time I’ve gotten ESC intervene is in the rain.

It does launch pretty consistent on D, esp once I upgraded the tires to Firehawks. I went with a 255 square setup. Also, braking improved as well. Run flats just suck the performance out of this car.

19"x8.5"?

How to enable "Race" mode on non-QV 2017-2019

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