[lavoref3]

Yeah that didn't work. I pulled the battery and reset it and it fixed it.

I'm glad you were able to fix it. Were you on a flat surface when you went though the process? Just for future reference.

 

[tausigmanova]

I'm glad you were able to fix it. Were you on a flat surface when you went though the process? Just for future reference.

I was on my driveway in front of the garage. It's not perfectly flat but pretty close.

Edit: that said, I installed it and ran an autocross the next day with it. Type 3 seems to work perfectly fine for me.

 

[Drew]

I was on my driveway in front of the garage. It's not perfectly flat but pretty close.

Edit: that said, I installed it and ran an autocross the next day with it. Type 3 seems to work perfectly fine for me.

Good to hear! Just be careful when not on a flat surface and re-calibrating the ABS module. I was slightly downhill when I did it and it made the auto-hold activate all the time since the car thought that I was on an incline. Was annoying.

 

[lightra]

Good to hear! Just be careful when not on a flat surface and re-calibrating the ABS module. I was slightly downhill when I did it and it made the auto-hold activate all the time since the car thought that I was on an incline. Was annoying.

It's funny that you say that because I finally had the opportunity to go through the process today and I had a similar experience and had to carefully reverse my car backwards from my sloped driveway. I heard my brakes creaking but then I was able to quickly re-calibrate on level ground and my vehicle is working as expected now. Had a few hiccups in the process (with Timeout Errors) and needed to RTFM more. I thought the entire process would take around 1 hour but me being a total noob to these tools 3x'ed my time in trying to troubleshoot ending with the below and then Proxi Alignment succeeded throughout.

• Updated my MES to version 5.0
• Validated that my interface was ELM 327 1.3/1.4b/2.1 (High Speed)
• Ticked the "High latency mode" box on
• Validated the connection with the "Test" button a few times
• In Windows, went into Control Panel > Device Manager > "Properties" on the Com Port for the USB Adapter > Port Settings > Advanced > Set the Latency Timer (msec) to 1

And extra specifics for the original Steering Angle step:

• Went into System | Electric Steering > Control Module | ZF Electric Steering > Parameters
• Clicked the empty checkbox next to Steering Angle
• Then I was able to fnaggle and adjust till it was "0 deg."

I can also anecdote to Alfissimo's Kit w/ USB Interface + Adapters handling my needs (alongside SGW Bypass being installed)...and I may now be able to help other Giulia owners in the NYC-area if they want to take this path. Now that I have it working for my vehicle, I'm super tempted to fnaggle the other options and install ACC plus the buttons. Need to take my car out for a longer trip, book another track day, and see how Race mode performs is once my schedule is less hectic 😅

 

[LuMaz 22 Q2 Giulia Veloce]

It's funny that you say that because I finally had the opportunity to go through the process today and I had a similar experience and had to carefully reverse my car backwards from my sloped driveway. I heard my brakes creaking but then I was able to quickly re-calibrate on level ground and my vehicle is working as expected now. Had a few hiccups in the process (with Timeout Errors) and needed to RTFM more. I thought the entire process would take around 1 hour but me being a total noob to these tools 3x'ed my time in trying to troubleshoot ending with the below and then Proxi Alignment succeeded throughout.

• Updated my MES to version 5.0
• Validated that my interface was ELM 327 1.3/1.4b/2.1 (High Speed)
• Ticked the "High latency mode" box on
• Validated the connection with the "Test" button a few times
• In Windows, went into Control Panel > Device Manager > "Properties" on the Com Port for the USB Adapter > Port Settings > Advanced > Set the Latency Timer (msec) to 1

And extra specifics for the original Steering Angle step:

• Went into System | Electric Steering > Control Module | ZF Electric Steering > Parameters
• Clicked the empty checkbox next to Steering Angle
• Then I was able to fnaggle and adjust till it was "0 deg."

I can also anecdote to Alfissimo's Kit w/ USB Interface + Adapters handling my needs (alongside SGW Bypass being installed)...and I may now be able to help other Giulia owners in the NYC-area if they want to take this path. Now that I have it working for my vehicle, I'm super tempted to fnaggle the other options and also install ACC plus the buttons. Need to take my car out for a longer trip, book another track day, and see how Race mode performs is once my schedule is less hectic 😅

Thanks for the write up. I might need to update my software because I'm getting timeout errors now. All settings are correct and It had worked previously.

 

[White_alfredo]

Thanks for a nice write up!

 

[Mazinger Giulia]

It was actually quite some work to get it to this stage. This is a disassembly/decompilation in ghidra.
With a lot of work in ghidra and importing the damos/a2l which floats around you can make quite some sense of what the ecu is doing.
But 8MB flash is hell a lot of code if decompiled.

Any news Please?

 

[Drew]

Ok so update for you all. I had been running race mode for a year and a half now with a blinking odometer due to my 2017 DTCM being on version 401. I thought everything was good and had no errors or codes or anything else giving me an issue. Car drove fine and the extra stiff suspension was nice and I had done multiple track days this way.

Well recently I installed a hybrid turbo because I hated how gutless my car seemed past 80. I needed more power and speed for the straights on the tracks I love so much. I figured it was just how the car was with the stock turbo. Well after installing the hybrid turbo my car seemed exactly the same. Using dragy I only was doing 0-60 in ~5 seconds. Boost looked good and AFR looked good. At VIR I was struggling to get over 120 on these huge straights.

With @bhvrdr help we discovered my car was pulling up to 8° timing! I did more pulls and logs and looked at logs from last year and saw the same thing. I didn't realize it since I work from home and hadn't been going out much and definitely not pushing it that hard when I do. I then thought back to I hadn't hit 4.6 0-60 since before race mode.

So yesterday I turned race mode off and did the proxi and no longer have an unhappy odometer. Doing some hard pulls I no longer see timing being pulled and it feels much quicker! Ugh I had done multiple track days like this. Wish I had looked more closely at my jb4 logs.

So, yes having an unhappy DTCM will affect your car, just not in the most obvious way.

 

[JeFizz]

Ok so update for you all. I had been running race mode for a year and a half now with a blinking odometer due to my 2017 DTCM being on version 401. I thought everything was good and had no errors or codes or anything else giving me an issue. Car drove fine and the extra stiff suspension was nice and I had done multiple track days this way.

Well recently I installed a hybrid turbo because I hated how gutless my car seemed past 80. I needed more power and speed for the straights on the tracks I love so much. I figured it was just how the car was with the stock turbo. Well after installing the hybrid turbo my car seemed exactly the same. Using dragy I only was doing 0-60 in ~5 seconds. Boost looked good and AFR looked good. At VIR I was struggling to get over 120 on these huge straights.

With @bhvrdr help we discovered my car was pulling up to 8° timing! I did more pulls and logs and looked at logs from last year and saw the same thing. I didn't realize it since I work from home and hadn't been going out much and definitely not pushing it that hard when I do. I then thought back to I hadn't hit 4.6 0-60 since before race mode.

So yesterday I turned race mode off and did the proxi and no longer have an unhappy odometer. Doing some hard pulls I no longer see timing being pulled and it feels much quicker! Ugh I had done multiple track days like this. Wish I had looked more closely at my jb4 logs.

So, yes having an unhappy DTCM will affect your car, just not in the most obvious way.

That's crazy!! So, a failed PROXI will put you in a sort of limp mode. weird.

 

[Drew]

That's crazy!! So, a failed PROXI will put you in a sort of limp mode. weird.

Yeah but the thing is you won't notice it unless you are really pushing it hard and getting up in speed. 0-60 and around town driving, highway driving and all that it felt fine. If I hadn't done the hybrid turbo, I would not have noticed it.

 

[JeFizz]

Yeah but the thing is you won't notice it unless you are really pushing it hard and getting up in speed. 0-60 and around town driving, highway driving and all that it felt fine. If I hadn't done the hybrid turbo, I would not have noticed it.

I added this info to the original post, right after the PROXI align section.

 

[Mazinger Giulia]

Please if you have 1 minute of time to Breack the Balls to Alfa Romeo social's make ears us wish of Race Mode.

#DateciIlRaceModeOnAllGiulia
#DateciIlRaceModesuGiulia
#GiveUsRaceModeOnAllGiulia

ALFA ROMEO

Nuove Alfa Romeo Giulia e Stelvio. Bellezza senza tempo, emozioni senza fine. https://www.media.stellantis.com/it-it/alfa-romeo/press/alfa-romeo-giulia-e-stelvio-la-bellezza-senza-tempo...

www.facebook.com

Sorry for my very bad English 😅🤣🤣🤣

 

[rimoczia]

Did anyone (who has a 2.2 jtdm with CC set and not working paddles) try the difference between CC and EC? Is there a difference in paddles, gearbox or engine behaviour?

 

[Friendly]

So i have the problem where i do al the steps. i evene get the warnings on the infotainment. but it wont go in race mode....

Nothing in the cluster. ive done this to other 2.0 giulias but this one wont work. any help?

Can it be the gearbox software?

its a european 2017 2.0 petrol

 

[JV-Z]

So i have the problem where i do al the steps. i evene get the warnings on the infotainment. but it wont go in race mode....

Nothing in the cluster. ive done this to other 2.0 giulias but this one wont work. any help?

Can it be the gearbox software?

its a european 2017 2.0 petrol

Odo blinking?

When it goes through without errors everything works. If some module resist the change -> odo blinking and may not work as supposed. Do you have mes log?

 

[Giulia Super 2.0]

Please if you have 1 minute of time to Breack the Balls to Alfa Romeo social's make ears us wish of Race Mode.

#DateciIlRaceModeOnAllGiulia
#DateciIlRaceModesuGiulia
#GiveUsRaceModeOnAllGiulia

ALFA ROMEO

Nuove Alfa Romeo Giulia e Stelvio. Bellezza senza tempo, emozioni senza fine. https://www.media.stellantis.com/it-it/alfa-romeo/press/alfa-romeo-giulia-e-stelvio-la-bellezza-senza-tempo...

www.facebook.com

Sorry for my very bad English 😅🤣🤣🤣

Dammela cazz* te digli 😂😂

 

[rmatv.g]

@JeFizz is there anything that I could skip?

I own Giulia late 2017 2.0 16v 280hp rwd and with active suspension, all controllers are upgraded to the latest firmware. i’ve installed DNA selector from QV with Race mode and active suspension button.
in the multiecuscan Type3 DNA / Sport was already chosen.. however I tried different variants. Made multiple times Proxy Alignment which has finished successfully. Odometer isn’t blinking. All calibrations were made in ABS. So looks like all fine and like everybody is telling in instructions. However, when I switch to Race nothing just happens. All other modes works like before but Race has no effect.
also interesting that in the Multiecuscan there is a menu where you can see which mode on the selector is enabled and if I switch to Race it is shown there, but no effect in the car. ESC and other things are still enabled like per default.

is there any known reasons for that? I have some ACC error in my DASM block C1452-86, but not sure it might block Race mode to be enabled? Or am I wrong?

 

[stocki]

@JeFizz is there anything that I could skip?

I own Giulia late 2017 2.0 16v 280hp rwd and with active suspension, all controllers are upgraded to the latest firmware. i’ve installed DNA selector from QV with Race mode and active suspension button.
in the multiecuscan Type3 DNA / Sport was already chosen.. however I tried different variants. Made multiple times Proxy Alignment which has finished successfully. Odometer isn’t blinking. All calibrations were made in ABS. So looks like all fine and like everybody is telling in instructions. However, when I switch to Race nothing just happens. All other modes works like before but Race has no effect.
also interesting that in the Multiecuscan there is a menu where you can see which mode on the selector is enabled and if I switch to Race it is shown there, but no effect in the car. ESC and other things are still enabled like per default.

is there any known reasons for that? I have some ACC error in my DASM block C1452-86, but not sure it might block Race mode to be enabled? Or am I wrong?

Not meant in a condescending way, but you do turn the knob all the way, right?
There is a bit of resistance to overcome - you have to turn it quite far against a spring.

You wouldn't be the first one to fall for this...

 

[rmatv.g]

Not meant in a condescending way, but you do turn the knob all the way, right?
There is a bit of resistance to overcome - you have to turn it quite far against a spring.

You wouldn't be the first one to fall for this...

Hmm.. I will try again 😁 but I suspect that yeah I was doing it with enough force because I could see mode selections in the Multiecuscan and I saw Race there as well. However in car nothing was changing..

But I will try it again to make sure, thanks!

 

[JeFizz]

Hmm.. I will try again 😁 but I suspect that yeah I was doing it with enough force because I could see mode selections in the Multiecuscan and I saw Race there as well. However in car nothing was changing..

But I will try it again to make sure, thanks!

I really have no ideas to share... go test to see if the stability and traction control is minimized on some snowy / icy roads.