Alfa Romeo Giulia Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

How to enable "Race" mode on non-QV 2017-2019

1 reading
Jump to Latest
451K views 1.1K replies 157 participants last post by  Smug  
#1 · (Edited)
This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

NOTE: 2020+ with the monostable DNA selector (the one that always reverts to N) does not require a replacement DNA+R dial. All that is needed is the SGW bypass, MES, blue and grey cables, and USB OBD adapter.

Here is a YouTube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!



The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):
  1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
    1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
  2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
    1. The MES site has recommendations.
    2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
  3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
    1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
    2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
  4. For 2018 + Giulia's (U.S. date of manufacture after February 1st 2018, EU after early April 2018) it is likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM) that prevents unauthorized writing to the vehicles many modules. You need a bypass device.
    1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
    2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses.
      95626
    3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
    4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
    5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
    6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
    7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.
Now for options!

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have. (Thanks, @shpuncik for the info)

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)
  1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
    1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
    2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
    3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.
Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)
  1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though :p.
  2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
    1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
    2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. 90482
    3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part).
      90483
    4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
    5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
    6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow).
      Image
    7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
    8. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.
You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch info for DIY option #1 above:
  • Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
  • Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer​
C&K
Series​
HDP
Circuit​
SPST-NO
Switch Function​
Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)​
1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC​
5V
Actuator Type​
Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type​
Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style​
Gull Wing
Features​
Board Guide
Pretravel​
0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature​
-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position​
0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0
ManufacturerTE Connectivity Passive Product
SeriesRP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging Cut Tape (CT)
Part StatusActive
Resistance147 Ohms
Tolerance±0.1%
Power (Watts)0.25W, 1/4W
CompositionThin Film
Temperature Coefficient±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package0805
Size / Dimension0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations2


Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:
  1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
  2. Click Connect
  3. If older than MES version 4.5:
    1. To enter PROXI configuration, go to the Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
    2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
    3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
    4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is :p)
  4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
    1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
    2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
    3. Choose one and click OK
  5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
  6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
  7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
  8. Disconnect from the Body module
  9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
  10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
  11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
  12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
  13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
  14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
  15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
  16. Start vehicle
  17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
  18. Turn off vehicle again
  19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear
WARNING: If you are unable to successfully complete a PROXI alignment, potentially due to outdated CDCM or other module(s), there is a chance that it will leave you in a sort of hidden limp mode. See @Drew 's post HERE where his flashing odometer was more than just a visual annoyance.

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
  • A = A in ECM/BCM
  • N = N in ECM/BCM
  • D = D in ECM/BCM
  • R = No change
Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • Race Mode =
    • Race mode is indicated
    • Larger speed indication in center display
    • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • ASC/TSC off mode =
    • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:
  1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
  2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
  3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
    1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.
KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

  • Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
  • Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
  • Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
    • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
  • Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.
 
#64 ·
I think you will not get the knob from the mopar online.
"
Thank you for your order. This is an export only part and not something we can get here in the US. We'll have it removed from the site. Your order will be cancelled and your payment voided.

Thanks,
~ Mike"
 
#66 ·
JV-Z said:
I think you will not get the knob from the mopar online.
"
Thank you for your order. This is an export only part and not something we can get here in the US. We'll have it removed from the site. Your order will be cancelled and your payment voided.

Thanks,
~ Mike"
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, when did you place your order?

I ask because of the response below I just received today when I asked about my order status. It's from the same guy. Maybe he didn't notice this is the same part he already told you couldn't be ordered? Maybe I need a backup plan? I just made a new friend at the gym, a parts guy from the dealer... :sneaky:

"
Thank you for contacting us. Your order is in processing. At least one of the parts ordered was not in stock and had to be ordered in from Mopar. Everything should arrive to us within the next few business days, and your complete order will ship out the same day the last item comes in. Once the order ships you will receive an email with tracking information.

Thanks,
~ Mike"
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#65 ·
JeFizz said:
Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part).
Click to expand...
91066
91067

Damn it! I can't really do it.
 

Attachments

#67 ·
Looks like you are trying to pry it apart from the outside. I used a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver on the inside between the white plastic and the 2 black clips (one at a time) with some gentle pulling from the knob.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JeFizz
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#70 · (Edited)
Need a little bit of help here. Followed the OP and all is well. Changed byte 88 to CC and started the proxi alignment. When it asked to insert the blue cable, everything started to fail, kept going and then it asked for the gray, continued to fail. Part of troubleshooting, I went to the ABS module which asks for gray right of way and I get a ELM327 CAN bus error.

I'm using the OP's USB Link: https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBDLink-USB-Professional-Diagnostics/dp/B005ZWM0R4?pldnSite=1

Bought these cables from eBay, not the same as OP: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Adapter-diagnostic-cable-set-fiat-alfa-for-Italian-cars/163064233534?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Any ideas? I was able to execute a variety of things to test with the USB link only and w/out the colored cables, I'm thinking they're faulty?
 
#77 ·
kozak said:
Do to have blue and grey adapter to cable?

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka
Click to expand...
Yes I do and use them when prompted. I have also tried going straight into ABS as it calls for the gray to see if I can connect and I get the "ELM327 CAN bus error, check your connections".

beaups said:
Are you using a SGW bypass?
Click to expand...
My car's mfg date is 2017 and do not require a SGW. Tried to trigger a few things as stated in the OP and was successful therefore do not require one.

I was able to change the byte to CC and it stuck. I swapped the RDNA switch afterwords and tried again with the same results. Switching to RACE, drivers dashboard switches to yellow as expected and get a brief yellow splash page with all the nannies turned off in the entertainment screen. My miles to date in the bottom left, keeps flashing on/off, I presume because I need a proxi alignment done and to finish off the three ABS tests.

For what it's worth, I have also tried changing COM ports on the PC with the same results. Rebooting the laptop and uninstalling/installing the USB OBD yielded the same results as well. Googling and browsing MES site hasn't helped either.
 
#79 ·
I think I let windows do it's thing.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#80 ·
I think my issue might be related to an unsupported ISO code. Sent an email to MES support to add mine, hopefully that does the trick. I have also tried MES versions 4.0 to 4.4 with the same results.

This is the error I get when requested to use gray/blue cables:
91200


Below is what I receive during a full scan:
91201


For those that want more detailed MES instructions, see steps below. My .02 of contribution to this effort :)
91202
 
#95 ·
did you get this resolved? I had a similar error and it ended up being a short in the elm OBDII connector. There was a short in the usb cable. I got it replaced from the MES vendor I bought it from on eBay. Second one works as expected.

You can tell if this is an issue by the activity lights. when you hit connect within MES you should see lights continuously blinking on the OBDII end. If this isn’t happening it’s likely a bad cable
 
#81 ·
90% of giulias here (north europe) gives that unsupported ISO code error, but it has not prevent to configure anything. I asked multiecuscan to add year ago these but nothing has happened. I will try Proxy next week so i will tell you does it work or not.
 
#86 ·
My order is still delayed. I contacted mopar online parts and mentioned the other forum users experience that they had told him the part wasn’t available. They claim the part is still available from mopar but current availability is listed as mid November. I’ll likely be checking with my dealer to see what their availability looks like.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#90 · (Edited)
Ok full observations after installing RACE mode:

Car setup: 2.0 Ti US Spec, dampers, awd, MY18 with build date 07/17, RACE Switch part #156129321, changed byte 88 to CC
-EC Tune Phase II (no pops and bangs)
-EC v1 + BMC Air filter
-EC Pedal Pro
-Fabio valved exhaust
-GFB DV+

1. RACE mode does indeed pull the Phase I tune from N
2. Gas pedal is definitely linear and harder than before in ALL modes, the EC Pedal Pro at setting 9 helps a little but not like it was before
3. Dampers in front to go soft and rear to hard in RACE mode, you'll need to remember to switch the dampers when in race mode to mid
4. Traction control off, i'm a bit surprise how much it takes to actually throw the tail around. Had good success on a hard turn shifting from 1st to 2nd at about 5k
5. Shifts are quicker
6. Pedal sifters work fine
7. Shifting indicators in RACE mode don't trigger because of the different red line in the 2.0
8. Got a "drive train control module" failed during proxi alignment, no idea if that will change any of the behaviors noticed above

P.S For those that are interested in the DV+

Product Search - GFB Performance turbo tuning products

gfb.com.au gfb.com.au
 
T
#91 ·
ttaidapos said:
Ok full observations after installing RACE mode:

Car setup: 2.0 Ti US Spec, dampers, awd, MY18 with build date 07/17, RACE Switch part #156129321, changed byte 88 to CC

3. Dampers in front to go soft and rear to hard in RACE mode, you'll need to remember to switch the dampers when in race mode to mid
Click to expand...
Where can we see the damper settings, front soft and rear hard? with MES? also have you try EC. If so, do the dampers behave the same with CC? thanks
 
#93 ·
These cars like to be planted on the road, have to push little extra to get them sideways, limited slip does help, unless you want to smoke one tire like me ahaha
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#97 ·
Hi Alfisti,

Let me sumerize:
2017 Guilia super 2.2jtd with manual transmition.
With JRace remap. BMC filter.
Stock 88 was A8. We have changed it to CC. Race mode starting to work. Ok. But the other 3 mode were the same pedal and torque limit set. This is normal... Is there a chance to keep the "A" "N" "D" setup and race mode in dynamic setup?
In the aftenoon we will try the EC.
What do you think? My stock was A8. If we try C8 or E8 in bit of 88?
Thanks
Br
Peter
 
#99 ·
Have you noticed, multiecuscan new release 4.5 includes (R)DNA button options now directly in then adjustment page. These are not documented but i tested those. Race mode is option 2 and tcs off mode is option 3. Normal is option 1.
 
#102 ·
ECU is in position N, Other modules understand also Race mode. And in ecu you dont have full maps anyways, only throttle map and boost. If you have tuned ecu correctly, you dont have any differences on those so it doesn't matter if it is in N Mode. You still have same power.
 
#104 ·
could anyone install the rdna switch and program it for me? I live in Dallas Texas and have no idea what this byte 88 stuff means LOL
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alfissimo
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#108 ·
Yep, just turn the knob.

Mine is a modified DNA selector where RACE is momentary. To toggle back to D just hit RACE again.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
  • Like
Reactions: lockem
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#109 ·
FYI... just did a little bit better test of RACE mode. Race mode engaged, manual shift, 2nd gear, full throttle, blip steering to the left and back again. All 4 tires spun easily. ESC/TCS definitely does not intervene. :D It helps when it's 36F and wet... with Pirelli Cinturato P7's.
 
#122 ·
@Alfissimo - you mentioned ECU needs to be flashed, is this going to be overwritten with a flash tune? Or are you talking about the chassis control module?

The recipe is basically from stock:
  • SGW bypass for those 18+ models
  • RDNA switch
  • Multiecuscan software license
  • Compatible OBD2 to USB cable
  • Chassis Control Module flash for those with Ti performance package
 
#123 ·
There are no issues at all for the reprogrammed CDCM (that is what the damping ECU is called).
After fitment a PROXI alignment procedure should be done with MultiECUScan (MES). Of course when an SGW is present it should be removed to do so. No updates from Alfa will delete the re-programming. Flash tunes are apart of the main ECU and have no effect on the CDCM.
 
#126 ·
unless I'm missing something
If the car gets a new configuration file loaded at the dealer it will overwrite the one you are installing unless the original sales code is modified......your customers need to tell the dealership not to load any stock configuration files when they go in for service....its not something that is necessary for most services but there are instances when it may be done .
 
B
#131 ·
You get the yellow theme, but the shift lights don't work - presumably because the 2.0 ECM doesn't have any code to send the signal. Also, the pedal mapping gets permanently stuck in some mode that people describe as "N" mode, regardless of the position of the DNA switch. And you wind up with QV suspension calibration, which might be correct and might not. Does the ABS/ESC calibration change? Hard to say. Oh, and your radio will now show another car in the mode images (QV). And this is if it even works on your car, because many Q4 owners have reported that the car refuses to accept the PROXI changes.

I'm a big fan of hacks but this one seems like too much compromise for an ESC defeat. You aren't unlocking some hidden mode that AR decided not to give you. You're telling various modules the car is a QV, which has a lot of side affects.
 
Alfa Romeo Giulia Forum
posts
538K
members
26K
Since
2015
We’re the top forum to discuss Alfa Romeo Giulia’s seductive styling, luxury and race level performance.
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Alfa Romeo Giulia General Discussions Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio Alfa Romeo Giulia Issues And Problems New Member Introductions Dealers, Purchasing, and Ordering