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How to enable "Race" mode on non-QV 2017-2019

451K views 1.1K replies 157 participants last post by  Smug  
#1 · (Edited)
This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

NOTE: 2020+ with the monostable DNA selector (the one that always reverts to N) does not require a replacement DNA+R dial. All that is needed is the SGW bypass, MES, blue and grey cables, and USB OBD adapter.

Here is a YouTube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!



The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):
  1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
    1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
  2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
    1. The MES site has recommendations.
    2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
  3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
    1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
    2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
  4. For 2018 + Giulia's (U.S. date of manufacture after February 1st 2018, EU after early April 2018) it is likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM) that prevents unauthorized writing to the vehicles many modules. You need a bypass device.
    1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
    2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses.
      95626
    3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
    4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
    5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
    6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
    7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.
Now for options!

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have. (Thanks, @shpuncik for the info)

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)
  1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
    1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
    2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
    3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.
Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)
  1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though :p.
  2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
    1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
    2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. 90482
    3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part).
      90483
    4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
    5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
    6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow).
      Image
    7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
    8. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.
You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch info for DIY option #1 above:
  • Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
  • Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer
C&K
Series
HDP
Circuit
SPST-NO
Switch Function
Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)
1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC
5V
Actuator Type
Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type
Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style
Gull Wing
Features
Board Guide
Pretravel
0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature
-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position
0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0
ManufacturerTE Connectivity Passive Product
SeriesRP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging Cut Tape (CT)
Part StatusActive
Resistance147 Ohms
Tolerance±0.1%
Power (Watts)0.25W, 1/4W
CompositionThin Film
Temperature Coefficient±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package0805
Size / Dimension0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations2


Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:
  1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
  2. Click Connect
  3. If older than MES version 4.5:
    1. To enter PROXI configuration, go to the Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
    2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
    3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
    4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is :p)
  4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
    1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
    2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
    3. Choose one and click OK
  5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
  6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
  7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
  8. Disconnect from the Body module
  9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
  10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
  11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
  12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
  13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
  14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
  15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
  16. Start vehicle
  17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
  18. Turn off vehicle again
  19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear
WARNING: If you are unable to successfully complete a PROXI alignment, potentially due to outdated CDCM or other module(s), there is a chance that it will leave you in a sort of hidden limp mode. See @Drew 's post HERE where his flashing odometer was more than just a visual annoyance.

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)

  • ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
  • A = A in ECM/BCM
  • N = N in ECM/BCM
  • D = D in ECM/BCM
  • R = No change
Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • Race Mode =
    • Race mode is indicated
    • Larger speed indication in center display
    • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • ASC/TSC off mode =
    • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:
  1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
  2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
  3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
    1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.
KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

  • Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
  • Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
  • Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
    • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
  • Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.
 
#943 ·
I tried Dyno mode just to try it out. I felt like the car finally could chill out and just be a car instead of being a meth head.

It disables abs, so not anything that I'd use on track.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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Reactions: Il_Conte
#944 ·
I'll start by saying I have searched pretty thoroughly, but wouldn't be surprised if this has been answered. I have installed the flashed CDCM and RDNA switch from Alfissimo. Everything went well, but on the proxy alignment there were some DTCM errors about not being able to update. After it was finished my CDCM was no longer showing EOL Failed, but now the DTCM is and I still have a flashing odometer. I have a '17 Q4 and here is the info for the DTCM:

Gearbox / DTCM (Drive Train Control Module) Magna Q4 Transfer Case ISO Code: 00 43 50 91 14 Hardware number: M0045027.01 - Ver: 21 Software number: M0098681 - Ver: 0401

Any help would be much appreciated!
 
#945 ·
I should clarify I saw the known issues and it seems to reflect the errors I saw during the proxy alignment. However, our dealership/service center shut down in Utah, so I'd like to know if my version needs to be updated for sure and how I could get it updated.
 
#948 ·
Brothers! sisters!!!please help with drive train module out of range error. i did the type 3 setting at first, did the abs reset and that did not recognize race mode. i then did the type 2 selection but upon hitting connect at can setup i got a drive train module out of range error code. i proceeded in installing race mode on type 2 and it works fine i have no other issues besides my odometer is flashing and the drive train control module eol out of range or not functioning how can i reset or fix this without taking to dealer. thanks!
 
#950 ·
okay, is the car fine if i already did a proxi alignment successfully prior doing type 3 dna/sport? it was only when i found out type 3 didn't work so i went back onto multiecu and hit connect and that was all fine then i chose the type 2 and went through the process fully but only the drivetrain failure to connect thing came up.
 
#951 ·
car should be fine. i drove with mine blinking for a couple weeks and had no issues before i got my dtcm updated by the alfa dealer.

odometer is blinking to tell you there is an issue in the canbus system (which you obviously know is your dtcm version)

once updated to version 0501 and you perform a successful proxy alignment it will stop blinking.
 
#964 ·
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#965 ·
Byte 88 = CC (Type 2)
ESC abilitato in modalità DNA
A = A in ECM / BCM
N = N in ECM / BCM
D = D in ECM / BCM
La modalità Race include:
N in ECM
D in BCM
Disabilita FCW
Disabilita ESC
Disabilita l'avvio / arresto automatico



Byte 88 = EC (Type 2/Sport)
ESC abilitato in modalità DNA
A = A in ECM / BCM
N = N in ECM / BCM
D = D in ECM / BCM
Modalità off R / ESC
La modalità Race non è indicata
La modalità "ESC off" include:
D in ECM
D in BCM
Disabilita FCW
Disabilita ESC
Non penso che abbia disabilitato l'avvio / aresto automatico



I guess it will become clear. Sorry to intrude on other people, but I'm just trying to clarify some things and understand more.
Thanks, the topic is extremely interesting and useful.
 
#966 · (Edited)
Byte 88 = CC (Type 2)
ESC abilitato in modalità DNA
A = A in ECM / BCM
N = N in ECM / BCM
D = D in ECM / BCM
La modalità Race include:
N in ECM
D in BCM
Disabilita FCW
Disabilita ESC
Disabilita l'avvio / arresto automatico



Byte 88 = EC (Type 2/Sport)
ESC abilitato in modalità DNA
A = A in ECM / BCM
N = N in ECM / BCM
D = D in ECM / BCM
Modalità off R / ESC
La modalità Race non è indicata
La modalità "ESC off" include:
D in ECM
D in BCM
Disabilita FCW
Disabilita ESC
Non penso che abbia disabilitato l'avvio / aresto automatico



I guess it will become clear. Sorry to intrude on other people, but I'm just trying to clarify some things and understand more.
Thanks, the topic is extremely interesting and useful.
This has been verified and what is available as options in MES itself. The information from the other site is incorrect. (Also, check the timestamps. My writeup came first.)

OEM "Type 1" = AC
Type 2/DNA = CC
Type 3/DNA/Sport = EC

Image
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#969 ·
Hello everyone, in order to enable race mode on my 2020 (EU) 2.0 Giulia, i ordered the kit MultiECUScan PROTECT "CAN-BUS" - Diagnostickit for CANBUS ! from Fuchs.de.

I also ordered a SGW and installed it without any issue (it shows as "no present" in multiescuscan).
Prior to doing the proxy alignment, as i didn't want to brick the car, i tried to connect to the ABS menu following JeFizz proxy alignment procedures (starting at step 7) as i wanted to test the grey cable first. It seems to have worked without issue. It also tried to connect to the dashboard menu to try the blue cable and it was ok.
I can connect to the body module through multiecuscan and change the DNA selector. However, when i did the proxy alignment, every step failed due to a "time out" error. I could change to blue and grey cable, but then again every step failed due to time out.

I didn't try again as i am afraid of a proxy alignment failure. Do one of you encountered the same issue ?
As a side note, the adaptor I received and used was this one :
Image


Thanks in advance for any tip. (sorry for the ugly links, as it is my first post, i can't post links).
 
#970 ·
read up in the MES manual for COM settings. It's near the beginning. (or)
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#972 ·
I recently purchased the multiecuscan 5.2 version. everything connect saves etc. I have the QV selector switch and added DNA type 3 once saved it shows up in the D modeadded DNA type 3 once saved it shows up in the D mode but will not to into race mode. upon restarting the car it seems to revert back to Type 1. When reconnecting multiecuscan it still indicates type 3. when attempting to use type 2 nothing happens after going through the set up again. alway seems to be in type 1. any advice would be greatly appreciated. 2019 giulia TI Sport
 
#981 ·
Ok so, let the car warm up and engaged race mode once oil temp was in the middle this morning, no issues at all. That was race mode activated once today. Will try twice tomorrow. It seems like too early before warmed up and more than once a day causes these issues to arise. Working on ruling that true or false.
 
#984 ·
This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

NOTE: 2020+ with the monostable DNA selector (the one that always reverts to N) does not require a replacement DNA+R dial. All that is needed is the SGW bypass, MES, blue and grey cables, and USB OBD adapter.

Here is a YouTube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!



The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):
  1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
    1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
  2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
    1. The MES site has recommendations.
    2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
  3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
    1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
    2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
  4. For 2018 + Giulia's (U.S. date of manufacture after February 1st 2018, EU after early April 2018) it is likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM) that prevents unauthorized writing to the vehicles many modules. You need a bypass device.
    1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
    2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses. View attachment 95626
    3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
    4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
    5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
    6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
    7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.
Now for options!

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have. (Thanks, @shpuncik for the info)

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)
  1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
    1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
    2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
    3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.
Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)
  1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though :p.
  2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
    1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
    2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. View attachment 90482
    3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part). View attachment 90483
    4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
    5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
    6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow). View attachment 90480
    7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
    8. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.
You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch info for DIY option #1 above:
  • Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
  • Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer
C&K
Series
HDP
Circuit
SPST-NO
Switch Function
Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)
1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC
5V
Actuator Type
Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type
Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style
Gull Wing
Features
Board Guide
Pretravel
0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature
-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position
0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0
ManufacturerTE Connectivity Passive Product
SeriesRP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging Cut Tape (CT)
Part StatusActive
Resistance147 Ohms
Tolerance±0.1%
Power (Watts)0.25W, 1/4W
CompositionThin Film
Temperature Coefficient±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package0805
Size / Dimension0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations2


Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:
  1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
  2. Click Connect
  3. If older than MES version 4.5:
    1. To enter PROXI configuration, go to the Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
    2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
    3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
    4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is :p)
  4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
    1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
    2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
    3. Choose one and click OK
  5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
  6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
  7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
  8. Disconnect from the Body module
  9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
  10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
  11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
  12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
  13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
  14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
  15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
  16. Start vehicle
  17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
  18. Turn off vehicle again
  19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear
WARNING: If you are unable to successfully complete a PROXI alignment, potentially due to outdated CDCM or other module(s), there is a chance that it will leave you in a sort of hidden limp mode. See @Drew 's post HERE where his flashing odometer was more than just a visual annoyance.

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)

  • ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
  • A = A in ECM/BCM
  • N = N in ECM/BCM
  • D = D in ECM/BCM
  • R = No change
Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • Race Mode =
    • Race mode is indicated
    • Larger speed indication in center display
    • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • ASC/TSC off mode =
    • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:
  1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
  2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
  3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
    1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.
KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

  • Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
  • Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
  • Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
    • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
  • Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.
Hi I really appreciate the time that went into this. I have a 2023 veloce. I did not replace the dna knob. Used mec on an iPhone. ,i went through all the steps but never received the message to use blue cable just grey. When I put knob in race mode on the cluster I get a “this feature not available pres esc”. Car runs as usual. I do have a JB4 and go pedal installed. Prior to this if I rotated the knob to try race mode it did nothing as expected from stock settings. Btw I used the type 3 on dna option

Image
 
#986 ·
Thanks for the response. The odometer does not blink. I’m assuming the programming did something because when I try to go into race mode I’m getting the message on the cluster “ this feature not available “ . I did not get that prior to the mod attempt. I’m just wondering if having the j4 and go pedal installed causes a problem? I’m also using the stock 2023 dna knob. Again no where along the process did mec ask for a blue cable just grey. I’m using the iPhone version of mec.
 
#987 ·
You're good to go IMO. As Gaucho mentioned, check the PROXI bytes to see if they really got set during the alignment. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952) → Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C.

That will pop up the raw PROXI data. Find byte 88, is it "EC"? If so, rock on.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#989 ·
That is expected. Unless you test the car by trying to slip the tires, you can only tell if you verify the PROXI bytes.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#991 ·
yes, they do have an iPhone version. It’s $50 a year also but it does not work after the expiration date like the desktop version does. I was able to go through the whole process and enabling the race mode only differences. It never asked me for a blue dongle wire only the gray one it did say complete each time and I was able to go back and do all the ABS stuff alignments although I didn’t know anything about keeping the steering wheels straight so I may have to go back and readjust that bottom line is it did go all the way through. I do have a copy of the Laptop version or desktop version I’m gonna go ahead and try it with that . Also, remember, I do have a JB4 before installed as well as a go pedal so I’m not sure of having those sensors or what not connected directly since I have to use the OBD connector to power of the JB4 before and while this is going on that connectors disconnected so the JB4 four is not powered up during any of this
 
#999 ·
Setting it back to Type 1 and doing an alignment will restore factory settings.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4