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How to enable "Race" mode on non-QV 2017-2019

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451K views 1.1K replies 157 participants last post by  Smug  
#1 · (Edited)
This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

NOTE: 2020+ with the monostable DNA selector (the one that always reverts to N) does not require a replacement DNA+R dial. All that is needed is the SGW bypass, MES, blue and grey cables, and USB OBD adapter.

Here is a YouTube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!



The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):
  1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
    1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
  2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
    1. The MES site has recommendations.
    2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
  3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
    1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
    2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
  4. For 2018 + Giulia's (U.S. date of manufacture after February 1st 2018, EU after early April 2018) it is likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM) that prevents unauthorized writing to the vehicles many modules. You need a bypass device.
    1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
    2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses.
      95626
    3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
    4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
    5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
    6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
    7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.
Now for options!

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have. (Thanks, @shpuncik for the info)

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)
  1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
    1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
    2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
    3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.
Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)
  1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though :p.
  2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
    1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
    2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. 90482
    3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part).
      90483
    4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
    5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
    6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow).
      Image
    7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
    8. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.
You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch info for DIY option #1 above:
  • Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
  • Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer
C&K
Series
HDP
Circuit
SPST-NO
Switch Function
Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)
1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC
5V
Actuator Type
Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type
Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style
Gull Wing
Features
Board Guide
Pretravel
0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature
-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position
0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0
ManufacturerTE Connectivity Passive Product
SeriesRP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging Cut Tape (CT)
Part StatusActive
Resistance147 Ohms
Tolerance±0.1%
Power (Watts)0.25W, 1/4W
CompositionThin Film
Temperature Coefficient±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package0805
Size / Dimension0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations2


Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:
  1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
  2. Click Connect
  3. If older than MES version 4.5:
    1. To enter PROXI configuration, go to the Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
    2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
    3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
    4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is :p)
  4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
    1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
    2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
    3. Choose one and click OK
  5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
  6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
  7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
  8. Disconnect from the Body module
  9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
  10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
  11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
  12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
  13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
  14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
  15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
  16. Start vehicle
  17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
  18. Turn off vehicle again
  19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear
WARNING: If you are unable to successfully complete a PROXI alignment, potentially due to outdated CDCM or other module(s), there is a chance that it will leave you in a sort of hidden limp mode. See @Drew 's post HERE where his flashing odometer was more than just a visual annoyance.

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)

  • ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
  • A = A in ECM/BCM
  • N = N in ECM/BCM
  • D = D in ECM/BCM
  • R = No change
Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • Race Mode =
    • Race mode is indicated
    • Larger speed indication in center display
    • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • ASC/TSC off mode =
    • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:
  1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
  2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
  3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
    1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.
KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

  • Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
  • Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
  • Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
    • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
  • Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.
 
#886 ·
ok, well, it's up to you, but yes, just run the PROXI alignment procedures again.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#891 ·
Ok another PROXI alignment didn't help :(

I've noticed this when scanning modules:

Transmission / CDCM (Chassis Domain Control Module)
UNKNOWN/UNSUPPORTED
ISO Code: 00 52 50 5C 14

Does UNSUPPORTED mean that PROXI actually didn't work?
 
#892 ·
CDCM is probably the issue, but it's strange that you didn't have a flashing odometer. Usually when there is a module that has no clue what race mode is, the odometer will flash to indicate that there was an issue with the proxi alignment. At least that is my understanding. Try the other type, that may be successful.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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Reactions: danardi
#894 ·
Ok, so here what else I tried:
I swapped CDCM back to stock (yes, I had GTAm from @Alfissimo ) and performed PROXI again.
It all went fine (displayed SUCCESS on every module and said "Turn off the key" in the end).
I recalibrated the sensors too.
Odometer doesn't flash.

When I perform the scan I get 2 unknown modules:

Dashboard / ETM (Entertainment Telematic Module)
UNKNOWN/UNSUPPORTED

which I assume a DNA selector - now DNA + Race installed
and CDCM - now stock installed.

Also when if I try to autodetect the interface in MES it sets it to ELM at 38400 speed. When I try to perform PROXI it says "Interface to slow, set to ELM (High Speed)". It allows to perform PROXI only after that change (speed is also set to 38400).

When I go to PROXI now it says "The vehicle is properly configured. PROXI not needed." All modules are green and OK.

It seems like a BCM issue at this point :(
 
#895 ·
I have to say you are doing a pretty damn good job of troubleshooting this. I think at this point you may need to consider bribing your dealership to update your BCM, and or other modules that may need updating in order to support this. That could be spendy, but if that's what you want to do, that is your prerogative.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#902 ·
NICE!! Glad you go it. I've had great success with that SX adapter. Rock solid as long as you have the COM port settings proper.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#903 ·
Hi! First thanks for all the work done there. I went on installing The Race mode DNA button on my MY18 Véloce Giulia with adaptative suspensions. it worked. but I felt a difference in the way the throttle behave, same response il all modes. for now I reverted to default rdna type. has anyone found a way to get the proper throttle response? if I understood well as I have adaptative dampers I need a exchange of the Damper control module system by square tuning to get it to work properly in N and D mode? thanks
 
#904 ·
need a exchange of the Damper control module system by square tuning to get it to work properly in N and D mode?
Interested to this point. Someone has experienced that dumper control module works fine in D-N-A mode, in R by default go crazy, but if you press the button to make them soften, it work fine... I've that feedback only by a couple of MY2016 2.2D Q2 users, I'm investigating.
 
#905 ·
yes you can set Them to mid. but by default they just do hard at back and soft at front. it seems some companies like square tuning propose to exchange your damper control module vs a one that they flashed to behave like a real QV.
 
#915 · (Edited)
I've searched this thread and forum and I'm seeing a unique issue with Type 2 on my 2023 Q2 Veloce w/ unmodded monostable selector - whenever I put the car into Race mode it's fine but I get a present code U142D-00. I can still switch between all the modes and everything is OK within the same power cycle, but if I turn the car off, on the next start it throws a CEL and locks me in N until I clear the code. The code shows present in MES as long as I am in the same powercycle even when changing between drive modes but shows intermittent after restarting and in the CEL lock.

There's not any specific information given on that code and searches on the web didn't turn up any results. I get an email and app notification that actually has a little more info. The app alert says "EOBD/INJECTION SYSTEM FAILURE" but also that the code should clear with an power cycle but it does not. I can't find where I saw it now but at some point I could have sworn I saw somewhere an error along the lines of "Drive mode out of range" or "Unknown drive position" but can't seem to find it now.

Not necessarily looking for help yet since I haven't tried Type 3 and am still messing about the wiring on my audio project, just want to get this info in the thread in case someone else comes looking with a similar issue.

That said, I love Race mode, 100% should have been a factory option since now the car behaves like I imagine it should. The TSC is so sensitive I didn't realize how much power it cuts so frequently just say pulling out into traffic.

 
#916 ·
Finally got around to setting up Type 2 race mode on my 2019 Q2 performance pack last week.

Grabbed a new RDNA knob and a used 'D' rev CDCM from a wrecked QV. About 10 minutes to install the hardware, and another 15 or so to do the recoding and proxi alignment with MES - very easy.

After a few days, I did notice that the mid-damper setting was a lot firmer than it used to be, while full stiff was wildly so. Since MES can't do a CDCM calibration, I grabbed AlfaOBD. Now the Dynamic/mid-damper setting is back to normal and race is much improved.

Personally, I'm pleased with the throttle map changes being eliminated. It feels much more natural - Dynamic always just felt overboosted to give the impression of torque. It was much too binary.

All-in-all a worthwhile upgrade - thanks for the tips here.
 
#917 ·
and a used 'D' rev CDCM from a wrecked QV. About 10 minutes to install the hardware, and another 15 or so to do the recoding and proxi alignment with MES - very easy.

After a few days, I did notice that the mid-damper setting was a lot firmer than it used to be, while full stiff was wildly so. Since MES can't do a CDCM calibration, I grabbed AlfaOBD. Now the Dynamic/mid-damper setting is back to normal and race is much improved.
Hi, thanks for sharing all this,

do you have the part number of the good QV CDCM, rev D is the only compatible?

for the engine and throttle map, i can understand your point, it is true that D is just about feeling more torque earlier, but i wondered even if few of us use all weather mode, does the change to normal map compromise all weather capacities in difficult terrains?
 
#918 ·
A feels good in the winter on ice/snow.
 
#924 ·
thanks. so now i only have to upgrade or find a used QV CDCM.
ebay motors is your best bet, thats where i found mine. you will also need the paid version of AlfaOBD in order to perform an accelerometer calibration otherwise you will get a “Service Dampers” warning, after a couple miles of driving on the new qv cdcm.

I also bought mine on eBay. It took a while to find a 'D' revision - the 'C' versions are much more common.

I did not receive an error message with an uncalibrated CDCM, but the ride was very harsh. Once I calibrated it, probably 250 miles later, it was good.
 
#926 ·
btw, i have a question for those that changed their CDCM or reprogrammed it for their non QVs and race mode. on stock cdcm we have a standard damper setting in A and N and in D we have by default a Sport damper mode that can be set to off (so standard setting), by upgrading to the new CDCM, what changes? only the race mode full support ( race damper mode or same sport damper mode as in D?)
 
#927 ·
With Race mode enabled, a third, stiff or ‘full damper’ setting is added. This is the default damper setting in Race mode.

Pressing the damper button in Race mode will soften them to the Dynamic mode setting, which is now named ‘mid damper’.

Pressing the damper button in Dynamic mode will continue to soften them to the Natural (and Advanced Eco) mode setting, ‘soft damper’.

The Dynamic ‘mid damper’ default should continue to be the same as stock once you do a CDCM calibration.
 
#929 ·
Ok so i have a temporary QV cdcm unit while squadra tuning will be upgrading mine, enabled the race mode type 2

when you refer to the whole table explaining the effects of dna modes for each car management module, the only change is ecm and throttle management module that stays in A.

cdcm upgraded has a race mode

instruments shows race mode

for the rest i suppose race mode keep same settings as dna?

has the zf gearbox a « race » mode too or does it use dynamic mode?

thanks
Image
 
#930 ·
Btw I understood why some people say to change the blue gray adapter quickly, there may be a timeout in the whole proxy alignment process, but I found a way around to avoid stressing for changing cables, it works with an USB obd adapter

Each time it tells you to change the adapter, do it and unplug/replug USB on the computer before pressing Y

It avoid the timeout.

I realized that after getting one on proxy alignment that thrower at me all the bunch of instruments light including engine.

Used my method the second time and it worked like a charm
 
#931 ·
Btw I understood why some people say to change the blue gray adapter quickly, there may be a timeout in the whole proxy alignment process, but I found a way around to avoid stressing for changing cables, it works with an USB obd adapter

Each time it tells you to change the adapter, do it and unplug/replug USB on the computer before pressing Y

It avoid the timeout.

I realized that after getting one on proxy alignment that thrower at me all the bunch of instruments light including engine.

Used my method the second time and it worked like a charm
I do the same thing. Unplug the whole thing and swap adapters.
 
#933 ·
Hello!

I have a Giulia 2.0 Turbo 200HP RWD from 2019 with a monostable DNA switch.
Without any hardware modification I can turn on and test the "ESC Off" (Type3 EC) and Race (Type2 CC) mode today.

Both mode worked well, I experienced the following:

ESC Off mode:
When I switch to D mode, the media display shows four icons indicating the safety devices are switched off, but the central display does not show them.
Then when I switch to D after ESC Off mode, the reverse is true, they do not appear on the media display, but they do on the central display.
In this mode the transmission same as like Dynamic, quicker shifting, incrased rev.

Race mode:
When I switch to D mode and then to RACE mode, the warning icons are in the right place, in sync on both displays.
The gearbox goes wild, it keeps the rpm above 4000 and shifts very quickly, the paddle shifters work, but the shift indicators on the display non-functioning.

I confirm that the gas pedal and engine maps are remains at "Normal" in all modes in both cases.
With this DNA button in RACE mode, none of the letters are illuminated in red.

Can anyone help me why the warning icons are reversed in EC mode?


(sorry for my English)
 
#938 ·
@JeFizz & the rest who has contributed a lot,

Finally i get my hands on a MY22 Stelvio and enable the "Race" mode. The coding itself pretty straight forward because i am having a monostable dna selector. What i did was selecting Type 3 Switch and here is my findings.

1. All dna mode functions as before (ECU & TCU map change accordingly)
2. "Race" mode, ESP & traction control fully off and able to get my Stelvio tail out :cool: . However, the ECU & TCU map is in n mode i beleive.
3. Adaptive suspension still working either in d or "Race"
4. ETM screen wont change or show "Race" but only the dashboard has the "Front Collision" & "ESC Off"

So my next question will be should I change the Byte 88 to something to fit/display better for "Race"?
My original Byte 88 was B4 and now with Type 3 Sellector, it changed to F4 by itself after Proxi Alignement.

Thank you in advance.
Image

Image
 
#940 ·
Read the 1st topic again and post your question with more information pls.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
#941 ·
hi guys,

just to share some update on "Race" mode on my Stelvio MY22 2.0T with adaptive suspension.

i play ard with AlfaOBD and set to Type 2 (DNA+RACE) and surprisingly it react better than I use MES setting on Type 3.

It seems like the dashboard display more "Race" mode info but not sure how that "Shift" works.
Image



On top of that, some how it activated my adaptive suspensive with MID if I press the button on the DNA dial. Now the LED turns RED in Race mode instead of White as like in D mode.
Image


Image


The car seems responding to the "Race" mode damper setting and can feel it is hard. I am not sure it is because of my car MY22 has better firmare/software to work with "Race" more or not. Or it is AlfaOBD software better package to activate Race. No idea... just playing with it.