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How to enable "Race" mode on non-QV 2017-2019

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#1 · (Edited)
This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

NOTE: 2020+ with the monostable DNA selector (the one that always reverts to N) does not require a replacement DNA+R dial. All that is needed is the SGW bypass, MES, blue and grey cables, and USB OBD adapter.

Here is a YouTube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!



The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):
  1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
    1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
  2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
    1. The MES site has recommendations.
    2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
  3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
    1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
    2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
  4. For 2018 + Giulia's (U.S. date of manufacture after February 1st 2018, EU after early April 2018) it is likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM) that prevents unauthorized writing to the vehicles many modules. You need a bypass device.
    1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
    2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses.
      95626
    3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
    4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
    5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
    6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
    7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.
Now for options!

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have. (Thanks, @shpuncik for the info)

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)
  1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
    1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
    2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
    3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.
Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)
  1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though :p.
  2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
    1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
    2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. 90482
    3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part).
      90483
    4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
    5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
    6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow).
      Image
    7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
    8. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.
You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch info for DIY option #1 above:
  • Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
  • Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer​
C&K
Series​
HDP
Circuit​
SPST-NO
Switch Function​
Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)​
1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC​
5V
Actuator Type​
Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type​
Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style​
Gull Wing
Features​
Board Guide
Pretravel​
0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature​
-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position​
0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0
ManufacturerTE Connectivity Passive Product
SeriesRP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging Cut Tape (CT)
Part StatusActive
Resistance147 Ohms
Tolerance±0.1%
Power (Watts)0.25W, 1/4W
CompositionThin Film
Temperature Coefficient±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package0805
Size / Dimension0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations2


Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:
  1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
  2. Click Connect
  3. If older than MES version 4.5:
    1. To enter PROXI configuration, go to the Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
    2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
    3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
    4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is :p)
  4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
    1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
    2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
    3. Choose one and click OK
  5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
  6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
  7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
  8. Disconnect from the Body module
  9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
  10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
  11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
  12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
  13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
  14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
  15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
  16. Start vehicle
  17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
  18. Turn off vehicle again
  19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear
WARNING: If you are unable to successfully complete a PROXI alignment, potentially due to outdated CDCM or other module(s), there is a chance that it will leave you in a sort of hidden limp mode. See @Drew 's post HERE where his flashing odometer was more than just a visual annoyance.

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
  • A = A in ECM/BCM
  • N = N in ECM/BCM
  • D = D in ECM/BCM
  • R = No change
Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • Race Mode =
    • Race mode is indicated
    • Larger speed indication in center display
    • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • ASC/TSC off mode =
    • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:
  1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
  2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
  3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
    1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.
KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

  • Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
  • Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
  • Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
    • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
  • Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.
 
#3 ·
Yeah, that thread turned into a large mess. Man, I am NOT motivated today. HAHA.
 
#6 ·
Well heck, you're local to me, I could just do it for you. :D
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#7 ·
Sorry guys, I've been working on a migration since yesterday, been a lot of combing log files and scripts. I won't have time to finish the write-up just yet.
 
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#9 · (Edited)
Great Job ! Thank you for doing it.

I spent a lot of time in different forums trying to understand everything as i am new to Alfa Romeo systems and a lot of the terms used are from expert people.
I will try to add information that i found useful for me and that you can use or not.

Refering to your text :
  • Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio.
    For the 2019 models like mine, there is a change in the DNA module that is now going through the CAN bus where before it was an analog switch (see schematics here and part numbers reference here(GSX means Left Hand Drive cars))
    • Reference for analog switch is 156.129.231 (MY16 through MY18)
    • Reference for CAN bus switch is 156.141.589 (MY19 through MY20)
  • I have found no online reseller for the 2019 switch as of today.
    There is a link to the EPER (Fiat/Chrysler Technical reference) here but it does not account for MY19 models (still ?).

  • Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector.
    The described DIY modification is only applicable for models with analog switch MY16 through MY18.
    Some older models MY16 were already equipped with DNA with 3 switches and just need to enable DNA rotation to Race position.
    I don't know if the 2019 switch can be modified by a DIY solution.

  • Hide your DNA modification
    I have found an italian forum (here) where a guy installed the original DNA cap onto it's R-DNA switch thus removing Race marking. Not perfect but a smart way to get the mod not visible at first glance.
    I have found nowhere the process to remove the DNA cap, seems tricky.

  • Step 2/2 Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode:
    You can perform the ECM configuration modification without changing the DNA.
    The modification will not be accessible/testable up to when the R-DNA is in place.
    This will secure your money in case you can't go to the end of the Proxy/ABS process

  • you will need to connect to the ABS module using the gray (#6) cable. Perform the 3 calibrations
    As far as i understood correctly the discussions in the forum (here), you need to ensure that the driving wheel is in 0 position and that the car is laying on a flat surface for the process to complete without error.
    The 3 steps of calibration (here) are:
    • Lateral and Longitudinal acceleration sensors
    • Reset steering angle
    • Pressure sensor calibration
Those are my additionnal findings that could help to better master the process for less skilled people in Alfa Romeo programming and modding.
My Alfa Romeo tools are under order but we are in August and everything takes longer to be shipped and be delivered.

If anyone with a 2019 model has done the modification and would share the results, it would be fine.

EDIT : added links to information source references
 
S
#1,077 ·
First of all, I want to thank you for this very useful information. I have a 2.0t 2017 First Edition so I need the analog switch and I don't think I wanna risk ruining my actual switch by soldering. I've found some options on ebay, some with the code you mentioned 156129321, but then there's part code 156164873 and it says spring 4 pin. What is this model since it doesn't align with the 2019+ part code?
Image
 
#11 ·
I think that may be correct, but I don't want to incorrectly state something I don't have confirmation on. I believe that it's an actual CANBUS node, as apposed to the older passive device. Not sure where to procure said switch though. Dealer?
 
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#18 ·
kozak said:
What do you have on the screen in Cluster? When i turn on race mode i got Gear indicator, others got speed, anyone knows how to turn on speed instead of Gear? I got CC in byte 88.

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka
Click to expand...
From a QV specific topic somewhere it sounds like that has to do with a software update. Not sure what version.
 
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#19 ·
I have these showing as RDNA switches. Which one is which and where to find them other than dealer? They cost about 72 to 95USD when I look them up but no way to order.
156129321
156121266
156131347
 
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K
#22 ·
I change to EC, but when put to Dynamic screen shows that tsc and ESC is off... When i put to race, screen is as normal D and than in Cluster is info that tsc and ESC is off. I think EC only change screen display. Also when i left car in D, when i turn on again TCS was off.... I coming back to CC.
Image


Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka
 
#23 ·
Interesting.

If you ask me, there isn't any "logic" behind the displayed image when switching between DNA modes.

What I mean by that: I don't think the warnings (ESC, TC, ...) are displayed dynamically based on some settings. Switching between modes simply displays a predefined image file.

It looks like the "new" screen (D-Mode with yellow warnings) was indeed prepared by Alfa all along?!
 
#26 ·
kozak said:
I Think CC is more safe than EC, EC could turn TCS and ESC off while starting car...

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka
Click to expand...
No, it reverts to D after shutting off the vehicle, just like CC does.
 
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#25 ·
EC shows D in ECM and BCM... CC shows N in ECM and D in BCM... so there's that difference on top of the visual aspect.
 
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#961 · (Edited)
JeFizz said:
EC shows D in ECM and BCM
Click to expand...
Hello,
In the first post you write this:

Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • ASC/TSC off mode =
    • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
Which is true because I got it wrong ?

What is the difference between Type 2 and Type 3 ?

Thanks :)
 
#28 ·
kozak said:
No, i turn off the car, wjen turn on again TCS and ESP was off...

But for me the worst thing is screen, when put into D, screen show D and on the left on yellow info from race, when put into Race, screen is as normal D.


ibb.co

20190820-200650

Image 20190820-200650 hosted in ImgBB
ibb.co ibb.co


Aby one try to change for CE?
Click to expand...
Strange. I do not have that same behavior with EC in byte 88 on my North American Giulia Ti Sport Q4 (2.0T 280HP).
 
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#30 ·
Here's a video I just took showing what I get with the different DNA modes and the EC mode activated. Also shows the status of ESC and FCW after the vehicle is shut off and turned back on.

 
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#32 ·
Going from D to race turns off ESC and FCW. Toggling again from D to race turns ESC and FCW on. If I leave it in race (ESC/FCW off) and turn off the car, it reverts to regular D mode.
 
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#49 ·
jwq2 said:
Be aware it's not quite so straightforward, see info from tuner Squadra (use google translate ;) )
race mode
Click to expand...
Quick summary: they say that for a Giulia Super 6B with adaptive dampers, Race mode "hard" setting will be soft on the front dampers and hard on the rear dampers, a dangerous combination. They can reprogram the damper control unit with the QV program to correct this behavior. Using the "mid" hardness setting in Race mode will work.

They want 400Eur to update the damper control unit (exchange) if the car has a non-Squadra tune. The price apparently includes all of the work to add Race mode.

They give a table of equipment combinations that includes Giulia Veloce (same as NAFTA spec cars?) and Super 6D and use the Dutch abbreviation "n.n.b." regarding the active dampers and shift paddle controllers. Do any forum members have a clue regarding what "n.n.b." means in this context? Do any forum members understand the difference between a 6B and 6D Giulia?
 
#53 ·
I implemented CC race mode, successfully performing the proxy align, and implemented a temporary super ghetto home made resistor switch to confirm race mode worked on my NAFTA 2.0 Base Q4 Giulia.

I just ordered my R DNA switch here for $96 before shipping:

ALFA ROMEO SWITCH-DRIVING MODE SELECTOR (6ME58LXHAA) | Mopar Parts

ALFA ROMEO SWITCH-DRIVING MODE SELECTOR
parts.moparonlineparts.com parts.moparonlineparts.com

My observations that mostly match what others have noted:
  • Changing byte 88 immediately caused A,N,D modes to all have the same N type pedal map.
  • A 147 Ohm resistance between pins 5 and 6 for about a second enabled Race Mode (yellow image on Nav screen) with ESC OFF indicated.
  • Race mode shift indicator was blank.
  • Auto Start Stop is actually still functional for me in RACE
  • My shift paddles (added after purchase) do work in Race.
I don’t have adaptive suspension which Squadra has identified addition issues with, so for me I’m trading the variable pedal maps for an ESC OFF and faster shifting RACE mode. Seems like a fair trade :)

I’ll keep watching for any observed differences between CC and EC in the proxy.
 
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#54 ·
Clarkebb said:
I implemented CC race mode, successfully performing the proxy align, and implemented a temporary super ghetto home made resistor switch to confirm race mode worked on my NAFTA 2.0 Base Q4 Giulia.
......
My observations that mostly match what others have noted:
  • Changing byte 88 immediately caused A,N,D modes to all have the same N type pedal map.
  • .....
I don’t have adaptive suspension which Squadra has identified addition issues with, so for me I’m trading the variable pedal maps for an ESC OFF and faster shifting RACE mode. Seems like a fair trade :)

I’ll keep watching for any observed differences between CC and EC in the proxy.
Click to expand...
apparently it's not just the pedal map though,but according to Squadra the motor management setting that is fixed to "N" at all settings
 
#60 ·
lockem said:
But does that mean that A is no longer functional as Advanced Efficiency at all if byte 88 is changed to CC or EC? A mode uses different valve timing and different transmission management, it is not just a pedal mapping.
Click to expand...
No.

I have Race mode and apart from the pedal map, A mode is unchanged.

Sailing still works.
Power is greatly reduced, compared to N/D/R.
Engine sound is different.
Transmission shifts very early.

Again: from what I can tell: unchanged, apart from the pedal map.
 
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