[beaups]

Reason I ask is that I just want ESC off without race mode to preserve proper damper functioning

It sends ESC on or off, regardless of mode (on QV). Basically you get ESC control independent of DNAR mode.

 

[mikkyo]

Very cool. Played around and figured anything else out since your ESC investigation?

 

[JeFizz]

Very cool. Played around and figured anything else out since your ESC investigation?

I have all that I need to do some CAN bus sniffing. I should be able to figure it out for the 2.0T.

 

[Il_Conte]

I have all that I need to do some CAN bus sniffing. I should be able to figure it out for the 2.0T.

Thanks. I got the shield but not the sniffer yet. My C is very rusty but if you put it on Git I might help.

 

[Alpha]

I have the hardware as well... Should be working on things soon

 

[beaups]

I'm without giulia, but happy to help any way I can.

 

[stocki]

Is the TV-connector (as described in TC/ESC switch for my QV) also present in the 2.0 cars?

I would assume that it isn't?!
Maybe the CDCM is another place to "tap in"?

 

[beaups]

Is the TV-connector (as described in TC/ESC switch for my QV) also present in the 2.0 cars?

I would assume that it isn't?!
Maybe the CDCM is another place to "tap in"?

Not sure if the TV connectors exist on the 2.0 cars, although almost certainly the module isn't there. In theory, you should be able to tap anywhere there are accessible CAN-CH bus lines. They are present in several locations.

 

[stocki]

Not sure if the TV connectors exist on the 2.0 cars, although almost certainly the module isn't there. In theory, you should be able to tap anywhere there are accessible CAN-CH bus lines. They are present in several locations.

OK - I'll do some digging this weekend...

Can you tell us where you found the pinout for the connector(s)? ?

 

[beaups]

OK - I'll do some digging this weekend...

Can you tell us where you found the pinout for the connector(s)? ?

I bought a 3 day subscription to tech authority. I saved quite a few docs and will upload what I can later. Short term I think it's much easier to use the datalink connector until everything is working correctly, then move to a more permanent installation.

 

[msadie]

Is the TV-connector (as described in TC/ESC switch for my QV) also present in the 2.0 cars?

I would assume that it isn't?!
Maybe the CDCM is another place to "tap in"?

The connectors for the TV modules are absent on my 2019 Ti. I cut in connectors near the CDCM connector for both C-CAN and CH-CAN, because the wires are easily accessible there (especially since I have the security gateway but no bypass module). To be clear, I don't recommend most people cut the CAN lines, but it was appropriate for other reasons specific to my needs. I can take a photo of the harness in this area if it is helpful. I have the loom peeled back.

 

[beaups]

Here are all the modules that interface with the CAN-CH bus and the connector pinout for the CDCM. Interestingly enough, the CAN-CH bus layout doesn't list the CDCM, yet it's in the pinout. Go figure.

 

[msadie]

[

Here are all the modules that interface with the CAN-CH bus and the connector pinout for the CDCM. Interestingly enough, the CAN-CH bus layout doesn't list the CDCM, yet it's in the pinout. Go figure.

I have the USB version of the 2018 electrical schematics. Even the CDCM pinout is missing the CAN-CH connections, showing instead 3x CAN-C connections. At least they are finding some of the errors.

 

[stocki]

Thanks to @beaups for your work so far. I've forked your git repo....
Thanks @msadie for your input aswell. A photo of your harness would be nice.

My Arduino and CAN-shield should arrive within the next few days.
I'll try playing around with the OBD port first.

For a more permanent solution, I've found several CAN-CH locations.
(At least according to the tech authority documents - I have "invested" in a 3 day subscription since I was looking for something else aswell)

A few examples:

• front-facing camera (probably useless)
• "can bus splice block 1" - located near the battery; this sounds promising since there's a lot of space and, ... well ... a battery
• headlamp leveling module - located near the passenger side a-pillar. not relevant for me - my car hase the base 25W lights and no such module.
• park assist module - located "opposite to the battery" - left side of the trunk
• "can bus splice block 2" - located near the park assist module
• body control module - located near the passenger footwell?

The two "splice blocks" look very promising.
I haven't started searching for them in the car yet, so we'll see how accurate the documentation is. Fingers crossed...

 

[msadie]

@stocki
I investigated can splice block 2. It's relatively easy to get to, you just need to pull a few interior panels. On my 19 Ti+PP, the splice is not fully populated, so it could be a great option for a reliable and reversible tap. I was unable to identify the proper terminals, so I didn't follow through with this location.

There is a CAN-B splice at this location also, but I can't remember if it's fully populated.

Just a reminder: the CAN busses go active if the fob gets near the car, and stay active for a few minutes after. Best practice is to pull the battery negative with the handy post connector before disconnecting harness components.

 

[stocki]

@stocki
I investigated can splice block 2. It's relatively easy to get to, you just need to pull a few interior panels. On my 19 Ti+PP, the splice is not fully populated, so it could be a great option for a reliable and reversible tap. I was unable to identify the proper terminals, so I didn't follow through with this location.

There is a CAN-B splice at this location also, but I can't remember if it's fully populated.

Just a reminder: the CAN busses go active if the fob gets near the car, and stay active for a few minutes after. Best practice is to pull the battery negative with the handy post connector before disconnecting harness components.

OK - that's good news.
I've attached the splice block documentation.

I'm not really worried about any possible errors after disconnecting various components.
MultiEcuScan and all the adapters are readily available, should I need them

What I'm more worried about is the arduino's power supply.
7-12V is recommended, 6-20V is the limit.

Arduino Uno Rev3

Discover Arduino UNO R3 – the most used and documented board. Perfect for beginners to start coding and exploring electronics.

store.arduino.cc

Is there any knowledge / experience out there about simply powering it off the battery?

 

[msadie]

Pics of CAN splice block 2:

 

[msadie]

It is fine to power the Uno from the battery. 14V will cause the on-board regulator to create a bit more heat, but this should be ok.

 

[JeFizz]

OK - that's good news.
I've attached the splice block documentation.

I'm not really worried about any possible errors after disconnecting various components.
MultiEcuScan and all the adapters are readily available, should I need them

What I'm more worried about is the arduino's power supply.
7-12V is recommended, 6-20V is the limit.

Arduino Uno Rev3

Discover Arduino UNO R3 – the most used and documented board. Perfect for beginners to start coding and exploring electronics.

store.arduino.cc

Is there any knowledge / experience out there about simply powering it off the battery?

The CAN hat I purchased for my Raspberry Pi has a built in RTC and regulated power supply that can power both pi and hat (HERE). They may make one for the Arduino too: HERE

 

[msadie]

Here is the CDCM harness on the trunk floor just behind the rear seat. The three CAN-C and CAN-CH connectors in the second picture are the ones I added.
If you have interest in tapping CAN-C, it is available via unpopulated pins on the CDCM connector @ G4/H4. G4/H4 is bussed directly to E4/F4 on the CDCM ECU. The terminals can be purchased for cheap from mouser.