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Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for.
If I understand correctly, this is what they do from left to right:

R1C - Horn (not urgent to replace)
R2C - ASD - Auto ShutDown relay (may cause stalling and non-start conditions?)

R1B - Water Pump (will replace for sluggish acceleration from high post intercooler temps)
R2B - Blow by Control (this might be a silent killer important for keeping engine deposits from forming?)

R1A - A/C clutch (may replace if noticing A/C not performing properly)
R2A - starter relay (infamous for start/stop and non-start issues)

Alfa Romeo should really issue a recall for some of these if they know of a high failure rate of this relay. They can cause some really dangerous situations if failing at inopportune times.
Yes! This last week my car has literary died over (4) times during traffic and I had to try and stay calm while using a code reader to clear the codes to get the engine to start. Very scary, I have a 2017 Giulia Ti that just hit 100k miles. Even took it to the dealership and they couldn't explain it. Parasitic draw on my battery and they gave it a pass :(
 
I am about to hit 60k on my 2022 2.0. I drive my car for work and do not want to run into issues while out of town. Should I preemptively replace all of these with panasonic replacements?
 
I am about to hit 60k on my 2022 2.0. I drive my car for work and do not want to run into issues while out of town. Should I preemptively replace all of these with panasonic replacements?
I took care of the engine cabin and trunk accessible relays myself. While in my for my 30K service, I was already having a tire rotation so had them install the ones behind passenger wheel well while the tire was off and car on a lift. The charge was nominal, $35-40? For my circumstances, $ well spent.

This like the bleeder screws and staying on top of the battery condition just eliminate nuisance CEL or worse the car leaving you stranded. The costs are so minor big picture vs the downside.
 
I took care of the engine cabin and trunk accessible relays myself. While in my for my 30K service, I was already having a tire rotation so had them install the ones behind passenger wheel well while the tire was off and car on a lift. The charge was nominal, $35-40? For my circumstances, $ well spent.

This like the bleeder screws and staying on top of the battery condition just eliminate nuisance CEL or worse the car leaving you stranded. The costs are so minor big picture vs the downside.
Thanks! Since you have done this can you tell me how many I need to replace and if I can get the same relay for all replacements?
 
From the OP diagram, 6 in the front of which 4 are accessible via the passenger (right) wheel well. The other 2 in the front are accessible via the engine cabin and if you go to the 20 minute mark you can see how this is done


lastly there are 5 in the trunk, they are identified here as to what they do. Yes you can use the same replacement relay for all eleven of them. Hold/store the OEM relays, perfectly suitable as backups just in case.

 
From the OP diagram, 6 in the front of which 4 are accessible via the passenger (right) wheel well. The other 2 in the front are accessible via the engine cabin and if you go to the 20 minute mark you can see how this is done


lastly there are 5 in the trunk, they are identified here as to what they do. Yes you can use the same replacement relay for all eleven of them. Hold/store the OEM relays, perfectly suitable as backups just in case.

Thanks! I really appreciate the summary.
 
Just note folks that the order of relays listed here and on youtube (where you can access from top) can vary! This means that the 'play dead' relay is not accessible and you have to jack the car up (not trivial) undo the liner, undo the rack of relays and change it from there because it is at the end of the rack, not at the front as shown in diagrams above! This is what I had to do on my 2017 Veloce anyway and no prob since. I also examined under microscope the old relay and could not find anything visibly wrong with its internal contacts, so they are just unreliable, better change all relays to posher makes.
 
I am about to hit 60k on my 2022 2.0. I drive my car for work and do not want to run into issues while out of town. Should I preemptively replace all of these with panasonic replacements?
I took Panasonic, it is working I think normally . Now I want to change on OEM to compare
 
Bonjour à tous je possède une Alfa Romeo Giulia 2 l TB de 2018 mon start and Stop ne fonctionne plus je l'ai emmené plusieurs fois chez le concessionnaire en mettant le diable cela ne ressort aucun défaut la batterie a été changé deux fois alors pareil que certains alphistes je ne me sers jamais du start and Stop mais c'est juste que ce voyant au tableau de bord me gêne est-ce que quelqu'un pourrait m'aider s'il vous plaît
 
I purchased 11 panasonic relays. I guess I will start replacing them next time I lift my car to rotate tires. Hopefully I am not making a mistake as I have not had any issues yet.
 
I purchased 11 panasonic relays. I guess I will start replacing them next time I lift my car to rotate tires. Hopefully I am not making a mistake as I have not had any issues yet.
The source issue as the South Carolina based Alfa dealer in the YT video explained was the exposure to ocean air/mist the relays had while on the boat to the United States, the two ports of entry being Miami for east coast, San Diego for the west coast, a much MUCH longer journey. In Europe if cars are delivered via car carrier or by river and not exposed to ocean air/water this might not be an issue. Australia, South America, Asia, same as the US.

As has been previously state, OEMs are perfect backups, however because of a failure has the ability to strand you the cost risk/reward benefit, <$100 is to get this done. Have you seen the post on how complicated is it to tow (flatbed required) a Giulia when the car won't start? https://www.giuliaforums.com/threads/correct-procedure-for-towing.68693/
 
It took a long time to read and absorb all that great info in this thread. Thanks to everyone for contributing. It would be great to see more "post mortem" analysis on failed relays to see what broke (I think I saw one post that took the relay apart and didn't seen anything unusual).

I'd guess that, since there doesn't seem to be anywhere near the failures reported for the fuel pump relay in the trunk, compared to the starter and intercooler pump relays, that maybe increased exposure to elements of the front relays has something to do with it, or maybe the fuel pump just has lower current draw and doesn't stress the relay as much.

I'm going to proactively replace all 10 or 11 relays. Since a failed relay can leave you stranded, and they are a pain to change, it seems important to try to determine the "best" replacement relay to use.

My "best relay" logic goes as follows so far:

1. Since the upgraded Alfa/Mopar part seems to be NLA and has reverted to the original high failure part, the Alfa/Mopar part doesn't seem to be the way to go.

2. I saw an update post that a newly installed Napa relay failed after about 2 years, so I'm not inclined to use that.

3. I didn't see enough posts about the Bosch to form an opinion.

4. That leaves the GM 96484304the Panasonic CM1A-12V. It seems like more people have used the GM relay and I didn't seen anybody having issues with them. That said, if increased exposure to elements of the front relays is really a factor, then the potting of the Panasonic relays would seem to be an advantage. I did see one post where somebody had an error code using the Panasonic relay, and it went away going back to the Alfa part -- but others didn't seem to have that issue.

Right now, I'm leaning towards the GM, but am hoping others will post what theyve found most relaible since the thread was started in 2022.

Also, there were comments about the Alfa relays having a resister built-in resister that would help the car throw codes for failed relays, but I don't know if that's really a thing (I think the failed Napa relay was still throwing the error code).
 
It took a long time to read and absorb all that great info in this thread. Thanks to everyone for contributing. It would be great to see more "post mortem" analysis on failed relays to see what broke (I think I saw one post that took the relay apart and didn't seen anything unusual).

I'd guess that, since there doesn't seem to be anywhere near the failures reported for the fuel pump relay in the trunk, compared to the starter and intercooler pump relays, that maybe increased exposure to elements of the front relays has something to do with it, or maybe the fuel pump just has lower current draw and doesn't stress the relay as much.

I'm going to proactively replace all 10 or 11 relays. Since a failed relay can leave you stranded, and they are a pain to change, it seems important to try to determine the "best" replacement relay to use.

My "best relay" logic goes as follows so far:

1. Since the upgraded Alfa/Mopar part seems to be NLA and has reverted to the original high failure part, the Alfa/Mopar part doesn't seem to be the way to go.

2. I saw an update post that a newly installed Napa relay failed after about 2 years, so I'm not inclined to use that.

3. I didn't see enough posts about the Bosch to form an opinion.

4. That leaves the GM 96484304the Panasonic CM1A-12V. It seems like more people have used the GM relay and I didn't seen anybody having issues with them. That said, if increased exposure to elements of the front relays is really a factor, then the potting of the Panasonic relays would seem to be an advantage. I did see one post where somebody had an error code using the Panasonic relay, and it went away going back to the Alfa part -- but others didn't seem to have that issue.

Right now, I'm leaning towards the GM, but am hoping others will post what theyve found most relaible since the thread was started in 2022.

Also, there were comments about the Alfa relays having a resister built-in resister that would help the car throw codes for failed relays, but I don't know if that's really a thing (I think the failed Napa relay was still throwing the error code).
I have successfully used Panasonic CM1A-R-12V (which should include the resistor) and have had no issues so far. I guess you could compare the specs with CM1A-12V, but I read somewhere that the resistor might be important to ensure better compatibility, as you mentioned.
 
I have successfully used Panasonic CM1A-R-12V (which should include the resistor) and have had no issues so far. I guess you could compare the specs with CM1A-12V, but I read somewhere that the resistor might be important to ensure better compatibility, as you mentioned.
Thanks very much for posting. I don't think anybody mentioned the resistor version of the Panasonic relay -- so that's great to know.

I read the whole thread (and took notes!) and there didn't seem to be a definitive statement on whether the resister made a difference. Seems like it would with regard to detecting a failed relay -- but didn't hear of anyone using an alternate relay complaining about the lack of resister. For the user whose NAPA relay failed, would be good to know if it threw the soft code.

I didn't get any responses to my prior post, so I ended up ordering the GM relays (haven't received or installed yet). If I had known about Panasonic resister version before I ordered, I likely would have picked that over GM.
 
So I ordered 11 of the CM1A-12V resistors and they were the wrong part?
Those are exactly what I ordered and have used for at least a couple of years now. Now worries.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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