[jwq2]

..... At that point, I just left the Giulia in the parking garage until I can track down another relay today.

you can use the relay for the rear heated windscreen as a temporary fix

 

[jwq2]

just thinking out loud, but I wonder if you could just bridge the contacts of the starter relay with a momentary mechanical switch, to start the car in the "old fashioned" way in case of problems .....

 

[Antikondor]

Have had the intercooler relay act up intermittently for months now, finally put in the effort to replace it. I used Bosch 0 332 011 007 relays and so far they appear to work just fine. One of these relays cost me 2.83 eur, meaning I could replace all 10 for the price of what one OEM Omron relay costs here.

 

[tpuckett73]

Has anybody that has replaced all of the original relays had an incident of the mysterious complete battery drain afterward? Also, how much of an effect does heat have on these relays? My starter relay started misbehaving exactly this time last year.

 

[Flasch11]

There are several threads about various issues caused by relays so will try to put helpful info here.

What I have gathered (please point out any errors):
Some problematic relays are located on a mounted wire harness containing 3 banks behind the passenger headlight:


passenger wheel well ------- |(10a)[R1C][R2C]| ------- |(20a)[R1B][R2B]| -------- |(20a)[R1A][R2A]| -------- radiator

R1C - Horn (not urgent to replace unless horn is broken)
R2C- ASD - Auto ShutDown relay (may cause stalling and non-start conditions?) (will crank but not start without it)

R1B - Water Pump (might be responsible for sluggish acceleration from high post intercooler temps)
R2B - Blow by Control

R1A - A/C clutch (may replace if noticing A/C not performing properly?)
R2A - starter relay (infamous for start/stop and non-start issues) (will not crank without it)

*note (some report the two 20a fuse banks are switched in some cars. The pump relay is on the bank with white/violet cables?)
number designations R1A, R2A...etc are taken from beta romeo's diagram below

R1A and R2A are reachable from the top. The others may require access through the removable panel in the wheel well or removing part of the wheel well if you don't have the access panel.

The original relay is part 06106093AA and costs around $8.
That was later replaced by 06106094AA that costs around $40.
But as of 2023, it seems the official part that is being supplied is 06106093AA again.

I believe the heated seats and defrosters use the same relays, but located in the trunk. Have we seen a lot of those fail, or are the starter and pump relays just being stressed more? I don't see any harm in letting the heated seats and defroster relays fail before replacing.

thanks to @Beta Romeo and others in threads like this one for enlightening us:

Post intercooler temps high (FIXED)

spoiler : Post #33 by beta was right and that fixed my issue Hey guys I have a 17 q4 and once in a while I’ve noticed that my post intercooler temps getting hotter than usual. I use the squadra dongle to see them and confirmed yesterday with MES that they are high. Or the sensor is reading...

www.giuliaforums.com

Do you know how to get to the ASD on a Quadrifoglio?

 

[theeightytwo]

There are several threads about various issues caused by relays so will try to put helpful info here.

What I have gathered (please point out any errors):
Some problematic relays are located on a mounted wire harness containing 3 banks behind the passenger headlight:


passenger wheel well ------- |(10a)[R1C][R2C]| ------- |(20a)[R1B][R2B]| -------- |(20a)[R1A][R2A]| -------- radiator

R1C - Horn (not urgent to replace unless horn is broken)
R2C- ASD - Auto ShutDown relay (may cause stalling and non-start conditions?) (will crank but not start without it)

R1B - Water Pump (might be responsible for sluggish acceleration from high post intercooler temps)
R2B - Blow by Control

R1A - A/C clutch (may replace if noticing A/C not performing properly?)
R2A - starter relay (infamous for start/stop and non-start issues) (will not crank without it)

*note (some report the two 20a fuse banks are switched in some cars. The pump relay is on the bank with white/violet cables?)
number designations R1A, R2A...etc are taken from beta romeo's diagram below

R1A and R2A are reachable from the top. The others may require access through the removable panel in the wheel well or removing part of the wheel well if you don't have the access panel.

The original relay is part 06106093AA and costs around $8.
That was later replaced by 06106094AA that costs around $40.
But as of 2023, it seems the official part that is being supplied is 06106093AA again.

I believe the heated seats and defrosters use the same relays, but located in the trunk. Have we seen a lot of those fail, or are the starter and pump relays just being stressed more? I don't see any harm in letting the heated seats and defroster relays fail before replacing.

thanks to @Beta Romeo and others in threads like this one for enlightening us:

Post intercooler temps high (FIXED)

spoiler : Post #33 by beta was right and that fixed my issue Hey guys I have a 17 q4 and once in a while I’ve noticed that my post intercooler temps getting hotter than usual. I use the squadra dongle to see them and confirmed yesterday with MES that they are high. Or the sensor is reading...

www.giuliaforums.com

Great thread I am getting a code for the water pump! Are all 6 relays the same part number? I am just going to replace all 6 while I am in there!

 

[AlfaAndy]

Yes

 

[theeightytwo]

Yes

Thank you! Order placed!

 

[stillhomeless]

Just wanted to say I used the Panasonic cm1a relay to replace the secondary coolant pump one and the car misfired immediately and thru codes. Switched back to the oem mopar one and it was fine

 

[Oscar Perez]

Thank you to contributors of this forum. I was able to access the row of relays by unfastening the 4 most accessible screws of the wheel liner. I didn’t have to take the passenger wheel off, I just turned the wheel all the way to the left to give me space needed. Then I was able to access the relay boxes, de attach them and re-attach the with relatively ease.

 

[Copen606]

These should be fine as far as replacing older relays that are having issues. If you want a relay that is not Alfa and older, I have been installing the following:

GM Genuine Parts 96484304 Multi-Purpose Relay

I get them from Rockauto which has them at a very good price.

On the rockauto website the multipurpose relay seems to be a 20amp

 

[Copen606]

Great thread I am getting a code for the water pump! Are all 6 relays the same part number? I am just going to replace all 6 while I am in there!

Where did you end up purchasing yours?

 

[AlfaAndy]

I purchased my GM's from Rock.

 

[BlueArcher]

i would need to check the original, I have a spare laying around somewhere..... But I would think it shouldn't be too hard, car relays are fairly standardised .....

is it Picker PC782?

Manufacturer Product Number PC782-1C-12S-R-X
Description RELAY AUTOMOTIVE SPDT 30A 12V

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/picker-components/PC782-1C-12S-R-X/12352866

 

[jwq2]

is it Picker PC782?

Manufacturer Product Number PC782-1C-12S-R-X
Description RELAY AUTOMOTIVE SPDT 30A 12V

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/picker-components/PC782-1C-12S-R-X/12352866

View attachment 163011

looks like it, best to use the internal resistor option in stead of diode, as this is better for lifespan of contacts.....

 

[Peakster]

This is a lifesaving thread.
I have the issue now with my '17. Called the Jeep/Dodge dealer to order 6106094AA and they said it's been replaced with 06106093AA. $25.12 for two, coming tomorrow. Now I just hope I can reach my hand down into that maze.

 

[Peakster]

Part # 06106093AA worked and fixed my problem!
Don't know if this is the exact same part that eventually fails or if they updated it... It looks identical, at least on the outside. I have a spare one in my glove compartment at least that I might need in another 7 years.

 

[Dirk]

I got around to opening it up and it is a little more involved than I thought but not bad. Didn't buy my relays yet but wanted to see what would be involved first. I had to remove the wheel well since mine only has a panel for the headlight. I also took off the wheel but maybe it is possible to remove the fender liner without doing that, just harder to access all the screws.

First, here is a photo of the first loom that is reachable from the top if you have nimble hands. Remove the cap and starter relay is first one on the right. Be careful not to drop the cap as you lift or you will be opening the wheel well anyway to fish it out...

View attachment 130400
After I put it back in without the cover, it didn't crank the 2nd time I started the car (just lights), so be careful to make sure it is seated well and the cover might help keep it secure.

Here is a photo of the wheel well. You only need to remove the front hard plastic portion (not the rear felt). There are about 10 screws, 2 nuts, and 2 plastic push screws. Partially pry the middle part of push screws with a flat head or something to remove. No need to remove the screws for the small access panel for the headlight.

View attachment 130402

Here is what you see after it is open 3 relay banks circled yellow. Each seems to be color coded by tape:

View attachment 130403

Each bank is fixed to the panel with spreading plastic type screws. It's probably easy to break them off if you are not careful. Try lightly clamping them together with plyers or something to allow the bank to come free.

View attachment 130404

View attachment 130405

Mine had 2 relays in each bank. Pump relay should be in the middle loom, next to a 20 amp fuse (after removing cover).

View attachment 130406

You should be able to pop it back into the panel where it was after replacing the cover.

Just a hint: Instead of pressing each single bank out of the rail (which I consider ugly), in my 2016 Giulia 200 hp you can also loosen 2 nuts and then take off the whole rail with all three banks on it, then move it slighly downwards (cables still connected). This makes is very easy to take off the caps from each bank. Note: The 2 nuts are easily accessible from the wheel house, an you will see those 2 nuts only after having taken the forward front wheel house out, as described. Hope understandable, not native speaker

 

[Dirk]

There are several threads about various issues caused by relays so will try to put helpful info here.

What I have gathered (please point out any errors):
Some problematic relays are located on a mounted wire harness containing 3 banks behind the passenger headlight:


passenger wheel well ------- |(10a)[R1C][R2C]| ------- |(20a)[R1B][R2B]| -------- |(20a)[R1A][R2A]| -------- radiator

R1C - Horn (not urgent to replace unless horn is broken)
R2C- ASD - Auto ShutDown relay (may cause stalling and non-start conditions?) (will crank but not start without it)

R1B - Water Pump (might be responsible for sluggish acceleration from high post intercooler temps)
R2B - Blow by Control

R1A - A/C clutch (may replace if noticing A/C not performing properly?)
R2A - starter relay (infamous for start/stop and non-start issues) (will not crank without it)

*note (some report the two 20a fuse banks are switched in some cars. The pump relay is on the bank with white/violet cables?)
number designations R1A, R2A...etc are taken from beta romeo's diagram below

R1A and R2A are reachable from the top. The others may require access through the removable panel in the wheel well or removing part of the wheel well if you don't have the access panel.

The original relay is part 06106093AA and costs around $8.
That was later replaced by 06106094AA that costs around $40.
But as of 2023, it seems the official part that is being supplied is 06106093AA again.

I believe the heated seats and defrosters use the same relays, but located in the trunk. Have we seen a lot of those fail, or are the starter and pump relays just being stressed more? I don't see any harm in letting the heated seats and defroster relays fail before replacing.

thanks to @Beta Romeo and others in threads like this one for enlightening us:

Post intercooler temps high (FIXED)

spoiler : Post #33 by beta was right and that fixed my issue Hey guys I have a 17 q4 and once in a while I’ve noticed that my post intercooler temps getting hotter than usual. I use the squadra dongle to see them and confirmed yesterday with MES that they are high. Or the sensor is reading...

www.giuliaforums.com

Thanks for this post, I can confirm replacement of the water pump relay has removed the "U1008-00 - LIN serial line" failure code. I also had occasionally no cranking on pressing start button and failure code "P26E4-00 - Starter relay" accordingly. So I exchanged all 5 aux PDC relays preventive.

Symptoms were "U1008-00 - LIN serial line" was thrown even though you could hear water pump running later on after engine was turned off. No cranking typically if battery voltage rather low. So I consider both "suspect" relays mechanically deficient (slow, weak) rather than not switching at all. Input resistance was still o.k (about 92 ohms in both directions, new ones have the same).

In spite of experienced systematic deficiency I replaced by Original part 0610 6093 AA, OEM manufacturer Omron, as I cannot be sure whether input resistance of 0610 6094 AA is the same, as the spec was not found. I attribute the deficiency to the zone in which relays are located rather than to the manufacturer etc.. The zone (in front of wheel house) is ambient air, so normally rather cold, the relays would never bake out properly (thus collecting condense water). So I would judge that trying out other manufacturer etc. would not remove the issue of long term deficiencies (of automotive standard relays) in this zone.

 

[JostVice]

I just ordered a set of the Panasonic relays from Digikey. $4.06 each, versus GM for $7.53 and Mopar for $41 (!). Hopefully not a mistake going with the cheapest part.

I wonder if these relays will fit my Case backhoe as well. It has an incredible number of electrical gremlins and is essentially stuck in 1st with no ability to use the manual (electrically operated) clutch.

Any PN for these panasonic relays?