Last night I decided to do it even though it was not an option to jack up the car and remove the wheel.
So it cost me three hours of lying on the ground in various positions while trying to get the relay boxes back onto the brackets.
So I would recommend definitely removing the wheel and a convenient section of the wheel arch liner as a minimum.

 

I took my front wheel off and pulled back the liner. After that, it was easy to take the whole bar off that holds the three banks. I replaced all except the horn (living in N Y, mine gets a healthy work out). Good insurance.

 

I've replaced the original relays with GM from Rock Auto years ago and they are working perfectly. As an aside, when I press the start button I notice a very slight (fraction of a second) hesitation before the starter begins to turn. If I press the start button without pressing the brake pedal to just turn on the ignition to check my oil level between the center gauges first, and then press the brake pedal and then press the start button to start the engine, the starter fires instantly. I mean instantly.

 

hello All....i'm a bit confused. isn't a relay a relay. 12V...energized...contact closes? end. are the ones on amazon like the ones on Amazon for $12...set of 4 (4 pin)

good enough?

thanks!!

2019 alfa giulia carbon/nero edition.....

 

Most control relays have what are known as Form C contacts, meaning each pole has a Common connection, a Normally Closed (NC) connection, and a Normally Open (NO) connection. If the relay is de-energized, the common and NC will be connected and the common to NO will be open. When energized, the opposite occurs; NO to common is closed and NC to common is open. Relays can have multiple poles and usually do. A common use of both connections on a single pole would be to open the main circuit (NC) upon energization which simultaneously closes the NO circuit to energize an alarm that the main is now open. So I would stick with the normal pin configuration to be sure that everything works.

 

But these relays are not form C as they have only one connection to the NO contact. these are 4 pin not 5.

 

I went out to the garage and looked at my spare OEM relay. Yes, four pin and NO and common only. So if the Amazon pins have the same configuration, which they probably do, they will probably work. Longevity and reliability might be a problem but who knows?

 

thanks for taking the time to check. i will try and let everyone know if the $5 relay solved the problem, at least short term fix.
have a good day!

 

I replaced two of the critical problem relays with aftermarket relays from Meat & Doria. The price per unit was a little over €3.
Upon opening the M&D box I found Mopar relays in all their glory. Things have worked flawlessly since.

 

Not all relays of the same pin configuration are created equally. Poor metals, poor plating, fewer windings, etc. I replaced my original relays with the GM relays. Perfect since!!

 

I am being tortured by the old [will turn won't start] and have shuffled relays around including new ones. On my car 2017 Super the bar containing the 3 relay sets the relay pair visible from under the bonnet/hood has only 1 relay not 2 so is there a wire colour guide I can use to identify which is the dreaded R2A . Martin

 

Attached is the wiring diagram for the six relays - assuming I can get past the watchdogs on copying the wiring diagram. The colors shown on the wires indicate the actual wire colors.

 

I remember reading something about this years ago… it’s a purple wire or a purple and white wire?

 

^^This should be a sticky. I'll let someone else ask ADMIN to do it...

 

I added it to first post if OK.

 

Looks like G001A is a good wire to cut and install a hidden immobiliser switch in...

 

I'm totally fine with it. Some forums have very strict rules about sharing copyrighted bits. Thanks again to you for your help.

 

From the original post by @maxpower
"The original relay is part 06106093AA and costs around $8.
That was later replaced by 06106094AA that costs around $40.
But as of 2023, it seems the official part that is being supplied is 06106093AA again. "

I'm a new <1K miles 2021 Q4 Giulia owner and trying to get in front of the various OEM part failures and was pointed to this thread on the relays. Decided to grab a few and on the Mopar website was told this part doesn't fit my car (screen shot below)

Some of replies to this thread linked non OEM relays but those all seemed to be for European based Giulia owners, is there a list of recommended non OEM relays accessible for US owners? Panasonic CM1A-12V was suggested to me in a discussion I started, a YT video showing the relay replacement showed BOSCH 0332011007. I am still under warranty if that matters.

Out of curiosity, is having the wheel well relays swapped for new ones conveniently done when having my tires rotated? The ones that I can access myself I'll likely swap out sooner vs later especially if there's a OEM superior relay alternative available in the US similar to the replacement for the cheap coolant bleeder screws which are on their way currently.

 

The Mopar site says that because it does not include Alfa Romeo at all. Since it doesn't recognize Alfa, it says the part doesn't fit when in fact it does. If you go to moparonlineparts.com you will see it is considered an Alfa Romeo part! Yes, the auxiliary power distribution with the six relays is pretty easy to reach if right front tire is gone and car is on a lift. Pretty easy to do at home too.

 

@BernSF , see post #79. These GM relays have been problem free for me.
As alfan stated above, it is fairly easy to do with the RF wheel removed. A bit of care is needed (no ham fisted tech who would rather be working on a Ford truck) to finesse the apron away from the fender. Carefully lube and replace all of the apron fasteners.

 

Thank for reply, so small world, this weekend I got CEL non-blinking and a cleaning of corrosion buildup on the battery terminals resolved the issue. There's a YT video from a SC Alfa dealer that not only walked thru the disconnect, clean, reconnect + clear codes he then goes on to cover the relays. While he had OEM Alfa relays he actually referenced the AC Delco (GM) ones in the video as well as an alternative.

I live in damp San Francisco so I'm leaning towards the Panasonic

 

@JeFizz and others have used the PANASONIC CM1A-12V relays.
They are potted. (enclosed in epoxy)
Considering they are exposed to the elements, that makes sense.

Here's one of many sites that sell them for cheap...

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electric-works/CM1A-R-12V/647140

 

@JeFizz and others have used the PANASONIC CM1A-12V relays.
They are potted. (enclosed in epoxy)
Considering they are exposed to the elements, that makes sense.

Here's one of many sites that sell them for cheap...

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electric-works/CM1A-R-12V/647140

I ordered those Panasonic CM1A-R-12V and have replaced the two relays that can be reached from the top of the engine bay.

Replacing those took me all in all less then 10 minutes including the triple checks if all was seated well ✅️👍

Next thing to do will be replacing the relays behind the wheel arch, but for that i need some more time and working space.

I think I will skip replacing the relays in the back of the car. Have not heard yet about issues with those, I believe.

 

Here's the one that is battery cleaning focused but in the middle he discusses the relays you can access from the engine bay

Here's the one that illustrates the front passenger wheel removed that gets to the relays not accessible from the engine bay

The Alfamod take on some common issues including the relays.

 

Based on the helpful information (thanks!), I have just done the upgrade, changing a bunch of the engine-related relays to Panasonic CM1A-R-12V.

For me the reason was the P2600 code (Giulia diesel additional water pump), which started as intermittent (once in a while no start or shutting down), but ended with the last drive cutting out every few miles.
After the relay change, the CEL has disappeared and car works fine again.

I will just add to the above for those of you without a lift or jack, it is actually possible to do it on the ground without much time. My car is lowered, so not much space to remove the wheel well liner, either.

So what turned out to be the easiest solution was to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, proceed to only remove the 4 torx screws on the outer edge of the fender liner, then lay on the ground and reach my right hand behind the liner (which will bend enough to fit your arm). This only works for cars without an additional radiator in that area, though.

In that position, it was possible to reach each of the 3 relay box covers, lift them off (depends on your fingers, but since the boxes have some play, it was doable) and change the relays blindly.
Trying to remove the boxes themselves from the clips looked like too much trouble in that position, as post #127 by user Papichulo describes.


PS I do not think I have seen this mentioned, but in my case, the starter relay was actually more difficult to reach from above (under the hood), as there was a large hose just in the middle of the way.

 

Please help, i whant to know where is located bsm(blind spot monitor) fuse

 

Fuse F49 is in the BCM which is located in the passenger footwell. It also feeds the park assist system and the torque vectoring system (for QV models).

 

Parking is working but bsm have no any signs of life

 

So post #126 indicated that on later MY Giulias the loom behind the right front wheel well is moved to a more accessible location however there was no indication which MY. First off is that correct and if yes does anyone know which MY this starts?

 

Would these work? I want some that would ship quick. Amazon.com

 

Looks correct.

 

In bumper connection wash corrosion