I replaced all the relays and I noticed that I didn't have the R2B Blow by Control. Does anyone know if this is omitted on the 2.0s?

 

I had the dreaded U1008-00 LIN serial line error and had my water pump relay replaced at the dealer with the new AR relay sometime in February. Now I just had the start up relay crap out on me and I replaced all the other 5 ones in the front with Stark ( https://www.autodoc.nl/stark/12746960 ) which have 3 year warranty. I've also ordered 6 more of the Meat & Doria ones ( https://www.autodoc.nl/meat-doria/8127026 ) to replace the 4 in the back and then keep 2 as spares in the car. What a relay mess.

Thanks again for this topic! Top!

 

Hello,

FYI!

I'm looking for updated 6106094AA (MOPAR 1/11308/85) relays.
I found and purchased 5 relays from Meat & Doria 73232003 and got factory OEM MOPAR relays

 

These should be fine as far as replacing older relays that are having issues. If you want a relay that is not Alfa and older, I have been installing the following:

GM Genuine Parts 96484304 Multi-Purpose Relay

I get them from Rockauto which has them at a very good price.

 

On the rockauto website the multipurpose relay seems to be a 20amp

 

That box looks like it might keep things more secure if vibration or shaking is causing the original problems. But where did the fuses go? Maybe that is a european only fitment? It would also make it harder to swap just the starter relay if needed in a pinch.

It looks like there are R1 R2...R4 and A bank markings on the housing you can use for identification, but not the same labels we have seen in other diagrams. You might be able to figure out at least the horn, ASD, and starter positions by trial and error removing one at a time and observing the symptom. (crank, no crank, no horn...)

 

Fyi for folks with adaptive dampers.

Felt like my front end was getting super soft with more body roll (in D). Saw there’s a relay in the trunk box for the dampers and swapped out with a new one. Firm front end was back.

Really seemed like she was stuck in D “soft” mode prior.

No codes on the dash or MES before swapping. Some relays will log a “ground to short” (rear defrost, starter, blower…). Not sure if MES has an actuator to test the active damper soft mode switch, didn’t see one.

 

Is the relay Hoffer 7232003 proper alternative for OMRON 06106093AA for ASD, Starter solenoid and AUX Water Pump?

Btw, I have read whole theme now and you can consider "big like" for all you. ✔
Additionally, AutoDOC gives following:

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=7232003

 

I bought four Hoffer 7232003 relays today (6€ each) and hope that will be solution for appearance of limp mode in driving... They have "MOPAR" sign on cover...

 

Arranged and compacted configuration of fuses and relays of Alfa Giulia (based on scheme from Auto Genius fuses diagram)...

 

I also want to add a more complete description of fuses and relays

Fuse box diagram Alfa Romeo Giulietta and relay with assignment and location

A detailed description of the fuse and relay circuits with decoding for the Alfa Romeo Giulietta 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020.

fuseandrelay.com

 

Wrong car.

 

just thinking out loud, but I wonder if you could just bridge the contacts of the starter relay with a momentary mechanical switch, to start the car in the "old fashioned" way in case of problems .....

 

Have had the intercooler relay act up intermittently for months now, finally put in the effort to replace it. I used Bosch 0 332 011 007 relays and so far they appear to work just fine. One of these relays cost me 2.83 eur, meaning I could replace all 10 for the price of what one OEM Omron relay costs here.

 

Has anybody that has replaced all of the original relays had an incident of the mysterious complete battery drain afterward? Also, how much of an effect does heat have on these relays? My starter relay started misbehaving exactly this time last year.

 

There are several threads about various issues caused by relays so will try to put helpful info here.

What I have gathered (please point out any errors):
Some problematic relays are located on a mounted wire harness containing 3 banks behind the passenger headlight:


passenger wheel well ------- |(10a)[R1C][R2C]| ------- |(20a)[R1B][R2B]| -------- |(20a)[R1A][R2A]| -------- radiator

R1C - Horn (not urgent to replace unless horn is broken)
R2C- ASD - Auto ShutDown relay (may cause stalling and non-start conditions?) (will crank but not start without it)

R1B - Water Pump (might be responsible for sluggish acceleration from high post intercooler temps)
R2B - Blow by Control

R1A - A/C clutch (may replace if noticing A/C not performing properly?)
R2A - starter relay (infamous for start/stop and non-start issues) (will not crank without it)

*note (some report the two 20a fuse banks are switched in some cars. The pump relay is on the bank with white/violet cables?)
number designations R1A, R2A...etc are taken from beta romeo's diagram below

R1A and R2A are reachable from the top. The others may require access through the removable panel in the wheel well or removing part of the wheel well if you don't have the access panel.

The original relay is part 06106093AA and costs around $8.
That was later replaced by 06106094AA that costs around $40.
But as of 2023, it seems the official part that is being supplied is 06106093AA again.

I believe the heated seats and defrosters use the same relays, but located in the trunk. Have we seen a lot of those fail, or are the starter and pump relays just being stressed more? I don't see any harm in letting the heated seats and defroster relays fail before replacing.

thanks to @Beta Romeo and others in threads like this one for enlightening us:

Post intercooler temps high (FIXED)

spoiler : Post #33 by beta was right and that fixed my issue Hey guys I have a 17 q4 and once in a while I’ve noticed that my post intercooler temps getting hotter than usual. I use the squadra dongle to see them and confirmed yesterday with MES that they are high. Or the sensor is reading...

www.giuliaforums.com

Do you know how to get to the ASD on a Quadrifoglio?

 

There are several threads about various issues caused by relays so will try to put helpful info here.

What I have gathered (please point out any errors):
Some problematic relays are located on a mounted wire harness containing 3 banks behind the passenger headlight:


passenger wheel well ------- |(10a)[R1C][R2C]| ------- |(20a)[R1B][R2B]| -------- |(20a)[R1A][R2A]| -------- radiator

R1C - Horn (not urgent to replace unless horn is broken)
R2C- ASD - Auto ShutDown relay (may cause stalling and non-start conditions?) (will crank but not start without it)

R1B - Water Pump (might be responsible for sluggish acceleration from high post intercooler temps)
R2B - Blow by Control

R1A - A/C clutch (may replace if noticing A/C not performing properly?)
R2A - starter relay (infamous for start/stop and non-start issues) (will not crank without it)

*note (some report the two 20a fuse banks are switched in some cars. The pump relay is on the bank with white/violet cables?)
number designations R1A, R2A...etc are taken from beta romeo's diagram below

R1A and R2A are reachable from the top. The others may require access through the removable panel in the wheel well or removing part of the wheel well if you don't have the access panel.

The original relay is part 06106093AA and costs around $8.
That was later replaced by 06106094AA that costs around $40.
But as of 2023, it seems the official part that is being supplied is 06106093AA again.

I believe the heated seats and defrosters use the same relays, but located in the trunk. Have we seen a lot of those fail, or are the starter and pump relays just being stressed more? I don't see any harm in letting the heated seats and defroster relays fail before replacing.

thanks to @Beta Romeo and others in threads like this one for enlightening us:

Post intercooler temps high (FIXED)

spoiler : Post #33 by beta was right and that fixed my issue Hey guys I have a 17 q4 and once in a while I’ve noticed that my post intercooler temps getting hotter than usual. I use the squadra dongle to see them and confirmed yesterday with MES that they are high. Or the sensor is reading...

www.giuliaforums.com

Great thread I am getting a code for the water pump! Are all 6 relays the same part number? I am just going to replace all 6 while I am in there!

 

Where did you end up purchasing yours?

 

Yes

 

Thank you! Order placed!

 

Just wanted to say I used the Panasonic cm1a relay to replace the secondary coolant pump one and the car misfired immediately and thru codes. Switched back to the oem mopar one and it was fine

 

Thank you to contributors of this forum. I was able to access the row of relays by unfastening the 4 most accessible screws of the wheel liner. I didn’t have to take the passenger wheel off, I just turned the wheel all the way to the left to give me space needed. Then I was able to access the relay boxes, de attach them and re-attach the with relatively ease.

 

I purchased my GM's from Rock.

 

This is a lifesaving thread.
I have the issue now with my '17. Called the Jeep/Dodge dealer to order 6106094AA and they said it's been replaced with 06106093AA. $25.12 for two, coming tomorrow. Now I just hope I can reach my hand down into that maze.

 

Part # 06106093AA worked and fixed my problem!
Don't know if this is the exact same part that eventually fails or if they updated it... It looks identical, at least on the outside. I have a spare one in my glove compartment at least that I might need in another 7 years.

 

There are several threads about various issues caused by relays so will try to put helpful info here.

What I have gathered (please point out any errors):
Some problematic relays are located on a mounted wire harness containing 3 banks behind the passenger headlight:


passenger wheel well ------- |(10a)[R1C][R2C]| ------- |(20a)[R1B][R2B]| -------- |(20a)[R1A][R2A]| -------- radiator

R1C - Horn (not urgent to replace unless horn is broken)
R2C- ASD - Auto ShutDown relay (may cause stalling and non-start conditions?) (will crank but not start without it)

R1B - Water Pump (might be responsible for sluggish acceleration from high post intercooler temps)
R2B - Blow by Control

R1A - A/C clutch (may replace if noticing A/C not performing properly?)
R2A - starter relay (infamous for start/stop and non-start issues) (will not crank without it)

*note (some report the two 20a fuse banks are switched in some cars. The pump relay is on the bank with white/violet cables?)
number designations R1A, R2A...etc are taken from beta romeo's diagram below

R1A and R2A are reachable from the top. The others may require access through the removable panel in the wheel well or removing part of the wheel well if you don't have the access panel.

The original relay is part 06106093AA and costs around $8.
That was later replaced by 06106094AA that costs around $40.
But as of 2023, it seems the official part that is being supplied is 06106093AA again.

I believe the heated seats and defrosters use the same relays, but located in the trunk. Have we seen a lot of those fail, or are the starter and pump relays just being stressed more? I don't see any harm in letting the heated seats and defroster relays fail before replacing.

thanks to @Beta Romeo and others in threads like this one for enlightening us:

Post intercooler temps high (FIXED)

spoiler : Post #33 by beta was right and that fixed my issue Hey guys I have a 17 q4 and once in a while I’ve noticed that my post intercooler temps getting hotter than usual. I use the squadra dongle to see them and confirmed yesterday with MES that they are high. Or the sensor is reading...

www.giuliaforums.com

Thanks for this post, I can confirm replacement of the water pump relay has removed the "U1008-00 - LIN serial line" failure code. I also had occasionally no cranking on pressing start button and failure code "P26E4-00 - Starter relay" accordingly. So I exchanged all 5 aux PDC relays preventive.

Symptoms were "U1008-00 - LIN serial line" was thrown even though you could hear water pump running later on after engine was turned off. No cranking typically if battery voltage rather low. So I consider both "suspect" relays mechanically deficient (slow, weak) rather than not switching at all. Input resistance was still o.k (about 92 ohms in both directions, new ones have the same).

In spite of experienced systematic deficiency I replaced by Original part 0610 6093 AA, OEM manufacturer Omron, as I cannot be sure whether input resistance of 0610 6094 AA is the same, as the spec was not found. I attribute the deficiency to the zone in which relays are located rather than to the manufacturer etc.. The zone (in front of wheel house) is ambient air, so normally rather cold, the relays would never bake out properly (thus collecting condense water). So I would judge that trying out other manufacturer etc. would not remove the issue of long term deficiencies (of automotive standard relays) in this zone.

 

Do these go bad because of age or mileage or environment and do we know if an updated part ever started being used? Where I live we have seasons but it doesn't get really cold and stay cold very long any more. My car is a 2022 Q4 and I am putting about 25k miles per year on it. I drive hundreds of miles away from home for work fairly often and don't want to risk something like this being a problem while I am out. I am trying to determine if/when I should replace these relays.

Also, have we determined a best option for replacement? Is it the Picker relay?

 

Many thanks for the good guidance.
Managed to change R2C and R2A for now as I was starting to get related symptoms and error codes.
But boy was that a pain in the butt. A true Alfa Romeo yoga.

 

It's a bit easier if you remove the wheel.

 

I seem to have read that on the latest cars they have moved the loom to a more accessible / easier location ......

just an idea, but maybe you could get/build an extender, to move the location of the relay(s)