Can I use this oil in my 2017 Giulia with the top of the line Fram filter?
hsklow
Fiat/Chrysler said Penzoil Euro 0W30 is fine, but I live in South Florida where it never gets below 40 degrees.
Use what is recommended in the manual. If you have a warranty, it may void it if you use anything different.
5w-30 is fine in Fl. Make sure that it is any one of the following ratings...
API SN-PLUS
API SP
API SP PLUS*
*Not a spec, yet.
Also, ignore the FIAT and other bullsh$% manufacturer specs, they are a cash grab.
YOu can head to Walmart and grab the Mobil1 AFE 0w-30 that is API SP rated and $27 for a 5qt jug and $7 for a 1qt. Dump 5.6qts in and go.
I prefer Wix XP or Mopar filters.
API SN-PLUS
API SP
API SP PLUS*
*Not a spec, yet.
Also, ignore the FIAT and other bullsh$% manufacturer specs, they are a cash grab.
YOu can head to Walmart and grab the Mobil1 AFE 0w-30 that is API SP rated and $27 for a 5qt jug and $7 for a 1qt. Dump 5.6qts in and go.
I prefer Wix XP or Mopar filters.
^^^What he said^^^ You can get the MOPAR filter from Advance Auto now. Thankfully it is next to my Walmart so I was able to get an oil change for under $50.
Which model do you have, or which engine?
If you have a '17 QV (2.9L V6) then according to my manual it says to use 0W40 Pennzoil Euro Platinum, along with the OEM Alfa filter. I wouldn't trust any aftermarket filter for this car, but that's just me being extra picky.
If you have a '17 QV (2.9L V6) then according to my manual it says to use 0W40 Pennzoil Euro Platinum, along with the OEM Alfa filter. I wouldn't trust any aftermarket filter for this car, but that's just me being extra picky.
I spoke this summer with an engine manufacturer, he explained to me that the viscosity of the oil in 0w30 was perfect for the start of the life of our recent design engines. But after 35k-50k miles, the operating clearances are well done. For the health of the engine it is best to increase the viscosity index of the oil in order to compensate for the normal wear and tear of operation.
As far as I'm concerned on my 2.0l I switched to a 5w30 oil that meets all the standards for this engine. And I was surprised how quieter the engine is at idle and smoother running noises.
As far as I'm concerned on my 2.0l I switched to a 5w30 oil that meets all the standards for this engine. And I was surprised how quieter the engine is at idle and smoother running noises.
When I had my first Car, a TR4 in the mid '60's I became and still am very interested in engine lubrication. I am no engineer, but have read all I can since then on esp engine oils. Back then, there were no consumer synthetics, the first was Mobil 1, which in Europe failed in a lot of Porsche engines. Mulit-grade oils quickly sheared to a less viscous oil, and many people still preferred non-detergent oil. If you looked under an engine's valve cover with those oils, the springs and valves were absolutely covered with gunk.
Engine oils came in metal cans, and were labeled in three ways; I bought Wolf's Head oil, rated MS for "mostly severe" as there were oils rated for "less severe" operating. At gas stations one could buy unlabeled re-refined oil in glass jars cheaper. The usual manufacturer advice was to change the oil every three thousand miles, and the oil filter every other oil change. Plus the old adage that ten pounds of pressure per thousand RPM was sufficient, and probably was. Late 40's and mid '50's cars often did not even have oil filters, and if so, it was often an option, and was usually some sort of "by-pass" system. Amsoil advertised a by-pass filter canister which used a roll of toilet paper as the filter.
Spin-on filters came later, too. In the winter very cold temps in Lincoln, when I was a student at NU, if I was going to get to class in the morning I would go out several times in the night and start my car to warm the oil a little, and an hour before I had to leave, push some stereo cans under the sump, avoiding the oil drips. I doubt that did much, but my electric heater dipstick probably did, although pulling it and wiping it with my fingers to check my oil level sometimes left a long burn blister on my hand. In an manual shift car, with non-synthetic cold transmission oil, it was very difficult to shift until the oil changed from grease to oil after driving a bit. All cars leaked oil, some more than others.
Manufacture owner manuals had bar grafs showing what viscosity to use depending on the expected ambient temperatures. Consumer oil analysis simply did not exist, either. I and likely most others, had no qualms about draining our used oil into the nearest woods or drain, never considering the environmental consequences, but then too there was no way or place to properly recycle our used oil.
So.... all I can say is that it is best to use or not deviate far from the manufacturer's recommendation, and in the end, remember that "...oil is cheap, engines are expensive."
NAM VET
Engine oils came in metal cans, and were labeled in three ways; I bought Wolf's Head oil, rated MS for "mostly severe" as there were oils rated for "less severe" operating. At gas stations one could buy unlabeled re-refined oil in glass jars cheaper. The usual manufacturer advice was to change the oil every three thousand miles, and the oil filter every other oil change. Plus the old adage that ten pounds of pressure per thousand RPM was sufficient, and probably was. Late 40's and mid '50's cars often did not even have oil filters, and if so, it was often an option, and was usually some sort of "by-pass" system. Amsoil advertised a by-pass filter canister which used a roll of toilet paper as the filter.
Spin-on filters came later, too. In the winter very cold temps in Lincoln, when I was a student at NU, if I was going to get to class in the morning I would go out several times in the night and start my car to warm the oil a little, and an hour before I had to leave, push some stereo cans under the sump, avoiding the oil drips. I doubt that did much, but my electric heater dipstick probably did, although pulling it and wiping it with my fingers to check my oil level sometimes left a long burn blister on my hand. In an manual shift car, with non-synthetic cold transmission oil, it was very difficult to shift until the oil changed from grease to oil after driving a bit. All cars leaked oil, some more than others.
Manufacture owner manuals had bar grafs showing what viscosity to use depending on the expected ambient temperatures. Consumer oil analysis simply did not exist, either. I and likely most others, had no qualms about draining our used oil into the nearest woods or drain, never considering the environmental consequences, but then too there was no way or place to properly recycle our used oil.
So.... all I can say is that it is best to use or not deviate far from the manufacturer's recommendation, and in the end, remember that "...oil is cheap, engines are expensive."
NAM VET
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