Ouch! 🤕
I don’t think a detailer is going to be able to remedy that. That’s going to require something to fill in the holes. I’d imagine even if you had PPF that it wouldn’t have been fully protected, kinda surprising that you didn’t hear or see that it happen!

 

Ouch! 🤕
I don’t think a detailer is going to be able to remedy that. That’s going to require something to fill in the holes. I’d imagine even if you had PPF that it wouldn’t have been fully protected, kinda surprising that you didn’t hear or see that it happen!

Could have been any number of the semis I was stuck behind

 

I think you’re going to need touch up paint for that, good luck

 

Gonna need some touchup paint. It won't look perfect, but it'll look good from 5 feet. Is that Verde Montreal?

 

Yes

 

Did about 5 hours of highway driving on Monday, washed the car yesterday to get all the bugs off and was greeted with this. Don't know what hit it but it did a number on it, gouged the plastic under the paint.

Called a couple of body shops but they said they don't do chips, so I'm hoping a good detailer might be able to do some paint correction on it? What's everyone else think?

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Ask your dealer who does their minor repairs. There were a couple of dings and a small crack on the splitter of the used Stelvio I purchased in January. The dealer got it all repaired in a day before I took delivery.

 

Ask some detail shop/ paint shop who do a full step touch-up(prime, sand, touch up color, sand, clear coat, more sand and then polish), I learnt myself it on youtube so it wouldn't be so hard. it might not be 100% perfect but say 80~90% and cost significantly lower than some dealer who might sand the whole area and repaint.

 

Trying to find out who does this type of work for a dealer, especially high end brands, is probably your best bet. I've never tried this, but have heard of those who have. Almost all body shops will not want to touch it unless you do the whole panel. Be hard to do it yourself as it is more than just your standard rock chip. Hope you get it sorted.

 

It is possible to do this yourself (just takes time and patience), link to my response on a different thread: https://www.giuliaforums.com/thread...s.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-alfa-romeo-giulia-today.3994/post-1033969

 

Hey there. Owned a couple of performance cars in the past, with the Giulia being the 4th. Highly recommend paint protection film the front. Here's an example of what it can do:

Something hit the car at like 100mph. Tore up part of the PPF but it did its job of protecting the clear coat and paint below.

If you have the disposable income, would recommend front fascia, hood, and A pillars protected.
As for the current paint chips, I'd take it to a collision shop and assess the damage. Regular places like MAACO refused to touch my car, because apparently they consider Alfas an "exotic" (even regular 2.0s are refused by Maaco).

Sorry man. Good luck.

 

Dr Colorchip, you can fill that in with paint... worth a shot.

Otherwise its body shop - repaint.

 

Here is a link to my thread where I used Dr color chip for a peeling spot on my lower grill. Granted it’s not in as much as a visible spot you’d want to do solid prep and use multiple coats to build up, then blend, and reseal/clear over the top after.

I’d imagine it’s going to be more difficult matching the paint but dr color chip nailed Rosso for me.

https://www.giuliaforums.com/threads/front-fascia-paint-peel.60338/post-1025185

Worst case you muck it up badly and have to pay a pro for the repair anyway. 🤷‍♂️

 

Ouch, sorry.

Looks like it will need some filler followed by touch up paint and then touch up clear, followed by some buffing to smooth it out a bit.

You might be better off with a respray.

Challenge is matching Verde Montreal Tricoat, which will be near impossible no matter what route you charge. The bumpers of most Alfas don't even match the body from the factory.

 

Where are you located? Those are chunks. Mold filler, sand, tape, coat one x 2, mid coat x 3, clear x 2. Wet sand if needed with 1500 grit, compound, wax and polish. These are small enough for rattle cans—scratcheshappen has the best VM mix and clear (three cans, ensure you do them in the correct order). Just ensure proper dry time between coats, humidity and temps are good and this will look like new.

 

Just outside Madison, WI.

All the detailers I've hit up have said it's a body shop job. One body shop referred me to a different body shop due to their reputation with paint. That body shop wasn't even sure if they wanted to touch an Alfa, and even then they said it'd be a full bumper removal/respray.

As straightforward as you make fixing it sound, I seriously doubt I just wouldn't make things worse.

 

Just outside Madison, WI.

All the detailers I've hit up have said it's a body shop job. One body shop referred me to a different body shop due to their reputation with paint. That body shop wasn't even sure if they wanted to touch an Alfa, and even then they said it'd be a full bumper removal/respray.

As straightforward as you make fixing it sound, I seriously doubt I just wouldn't make things worse.

They’re scared of the paint. You can buy what you need for under $100, practice and still have plenty left to fix these dings.

I get it, paint feels scary because we associate it with a “forever” product once applied. Although, a practice with it, you’ll see that you can pretty much keep doing things over until it’s right, if you have the time and patience.

This isn’t a full pull and re-spray the entire bumper job. A good body shop may feel more comfortable with pulling the bumper, hanging it in their temp/humidity controlled spray room, tape, fill and feather while hanging; but them thinking this is a complete re-spray is ludicrous and frankly would turn out way worse than touching up some chunks.

You have a few options:

- Ask your local dealers if they can recommend a body shop, then go and talk with them yourself.

- Locate in your state an exotic car repair body shop.

- Or, buy a touch-up and watch some YouTube videos to learn how to minimize damage. The only problem is that the paint is so rare that you have to ask them to mix it for you. The code is located on the driver's side door frame.

Agree on all points—if you’re not comfortable with DIY, find a body shop that works on exotics. You’ll pay, no doubt, for their expertise.

And while I agree the paint is rare, it’s not impossible to replicate—or buy in a rattle can and have great results. Here are a couple of my projects with rattle can VM tri coat. The license plate frame I did in a few hours in the evening when the humidity and temps were low.

First, mid and clear coats.

On both metal and plastics. For plastic, like the bumper, I’d recommend treating with a paint adhesion promoter from 3M after a light sand.