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How to enable "Race" mode on non-QV 2017-2019

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450K views 1.1K replies 157 participants last post by  Smug  
#1 · (Edited)
This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

NOTE: 2020+ with the monostable DNA selector (the one that always reverts to N) does not require a replacement DNA+R dial. All that is needed is the SGW bypass, MES, blue and grey cables, and USB OBD adapter.

Here is a YouTube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!



The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):
  1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
    1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
  2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
    1. The MES site has recommendations.
    2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
  3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
    1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
    2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
  4. For 2018 + Giulia's (U.S. date of manufacture after February 1st 2018, EU after early April 2018) it is likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM) that prevents unauthorized writing to the vehicles many modules. You need a bypass device.
    1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
    2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses.
      95626
    3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
    4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
    5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
    6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
    7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.
Now for options!

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have. (Thanks, @shpuncik for the info)

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)
  1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
    1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
    2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
    3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.
Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)
  1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though :p.
  2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
    1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
    2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. 90482
    3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part).
      90483
    4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
    5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
    6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow).
      Image
    7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
    8. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.
You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch info for DIY option #1 above:
  • Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
  • Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer​
C&K
Series​
HDP
Circuit​
SPST-NO
Switch Function​
Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)​
1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC​
5V
Actuator Type​
Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type​
Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style​
Gull Wing
Features​
Board Guide
Pretravel​
0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature​
-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position​
0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0
ManufacturerTE Connectivity Passive Product
SeriesRP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging Cut Tape (CT)
Part StatusActive
Resistance147 Ohms
Tolerance±0.1%
Power (Watts)0.25W, 1/4W
CompositionThin Film
Temperature Coefficient±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package0805
Size / Dimension0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations2


Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:
  1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
  2. Click Connect
  3. If older than MES version 4.5:
    1. To enter PROXI configuration, go to the Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
    2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
    3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
    4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is :p)
  4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
    1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
    2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
    3. Choose one and click OK
  5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
  6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
  7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
  8. Disconnect from the Body module
  9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
  10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
  11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
  12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
  13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
  14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
  15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
  16. Start vehicle
  17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
  18. Turn off vehicle again
  19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear
WARNING: If you are unable to successfully complete a PROXI alignment, potentially due to outdated CDCM or other module(s), there is a chance that it will leave you in a sort of hidden limp mode. See @Drew 's post HERE where his flashing odometer was more than just a visual annoyance.

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
  • A = A in ECM/BCM
  • N = N in ECM/BCM
  • D = D in ECM/BCM
  • R = No change
Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • Race Mode =
    • Race mode is indicated
    • Larger speed indication in center display
    • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • ASC/TSC off mode =
    • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:
  1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
  2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
  3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
    1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.
KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

  • Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
  • Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
  • Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
    • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
  • Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.
 
#1,002 ·
Update so I got race mode to show up on the cluster and it looks like it’s working but to me it’s not much quicker than d mode. Maybe the JB4 doesn’t know what do in that setting. This morning when I put it into race mode I will say I did get an engine light and the auto start stop was disabled on the cluster and the car went into limp mode . In the proxi alignment I used setting 2. I was able to use the race mode yesterday on the way home no issues with the one difference being that I had the auto start stop disabled during the drive home. So I did this morning after I cleared the trouble code and I’ve attached with the trouble codes were here. I cleared the codes took the auto stop button and push it in so it’s disabled drove home and race mode no problem one of the codes was that there was a problem with the DNA knob erratic and disabled again I’m using the factory knob on mine since it’s a 2023. I’m thinking that somethings going down with that knob perhaps and the auto stop is not being disabled and that’s when it’s going into the check engine light, any thoughts? Also, I’m sure it shows on my ECM that I’ve done proxy calibration like a ton of times. Hopefully that’s not gonna mess my warranty up lol
Image

Image

Image
 
#1,003 ·
I believe that you are missing/ignoring the information in the #1 post, and also my replies.

The JB4 and pedal booster have nothing to do with Race mode.
When Race Mode is enabled in the BCM, either Type 2 or 3, it will be less performant over the stock Type 1 setup. As post #1 states, the pedal map is set to N no matter what mode you are in. The N pedal map is a linear map, unlike the D map which is more aggressive at lower throttle inputs. Your pedal booster can offset that if you like.
Race mode is not faster. N is the map that is now used for all modes (D, N, A, and R) which limits peak boost by a small amount near redline.

Race mode gets you less nannies.
I like Race mode for two reasons:
1. Ease of disabling FCW and blind spot monitoring when I go on track.
2. Less TC/ESC intervention.

Done.

Find a mode that works for you, or not.

Also, as stated before, if you're having issues with the PROXI alignment and/or blinking odometer, you may have a module that is not up to the proper firmware level and that needs to be resolved by the dealer.
 
#1,021 ·
I’m new here but i eventually got the race mode to work and the squadra tune completed. After several mistakes I got it all done. What i learned.
1. Do not use a Bluetooth dongle with mes.
I had a cell light when I used Bluetooth. Use a wired connection and all the errors with the knob went away.

2. On the tune .
Read the manual and watch some videos before flashing the ecm.
I had problems when I did not do the red line revs correctly.
Good luck hope you get it fixed
 
#1,028 ·
Unless you’re planning on getting a tune done, the race mode isn’t gonna do anything for you except disable all the safeties, but it will also only be running with the capabilities of the N mode, not dynamic mode so basically it’s not gonna do much for you except letting you see race on your dash if anything. I definitely recommend you only do this if you’re planning on getting a tune like a squadra tune.
 
#1,039 ·
what is the "new virtual cockpit"?
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#1,041 ·
Depending on if you use type two or three race mode, I believe you’re gonna get different activity on the screen you’re not gonna get the RPM yellow bars either also I ran into several issues with my 2023 when I switched over to the to the new race knob for 2020+ and depending on whether or not the vehicle had reached proper operating temperature. You’re gonna get a cell light. That’s gonna say something’s wrong with a knob. Keep an eye on that not everybody experiences it.
 
D
#1,042 ·
I have a Q4 veloce 2018, with transfer case software version 0501.

I read this thread but I still don't fully understand the pros/cons of installing a RACE selector.
If I install it and I put it in mode 2, I would lose the dynamic map, which I really enjoy.
If I install it and I put it in mode 3, I wouldn't lose the dynamic map, but I would not have ABS in RACE mode.

Is that correct?
 
#1,043 · (Edited)
davideb said:
I have a Q4 veloce 2018, with transfer case software version 0501.

I read this thread but I still don't fully understand the pros/cons of installing a RACE selector.
If I install it and I put it in mode 2, I would lose the dynamic map, which I really enjoy.
If I install it and I put it in mode 3, I wouldn't lose the dynamic map, but I would not have ABS in RACE mode.

Is that correct?
Click to expand...
Don't over think it, they are both very very similar; I prefer to see the Race mode graphics, and also prefer the feel of that mode, whatever it is. I use it on track though, so I can notice a difference on high speed corners. You lose the pedal map for whatever DNAR selection you are in no matter what Type you choose... it's always N (linear).

Edit: No matter what type you choose, you always have ABS.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#1,052 ·
Just a question for people who have been using race mode often, recently I went to a trackway, using also a throttle controller to keep pedal advanced 3 times I had engine check on a very tight corner, never had this before on open road. Nothing serious, the error disappear after 4 restart and didn't had MES at the time to check it but has anyone got this in race mode?

thanks
 
#1,053 ·
Never had any issues due to race mode. @SPDWEB.net does not, or did not, have race mode and had transfer case errors on track. if I remember correctly.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#1,061 ·
As I stated in your DM to me, that would require a reprogramming of the ECM. BCM PROXI data is only a static set of configurable parameters.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#1,065 ·
You need to have a module updated to a newer version. I don't know which one that would be though. @SniZ should be able to help you.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#1,069 ·
Per ripristinare la funzionalità del cambio devi aggiornarlo contatta a Sniz su questo forum. Per ripristinare le mappe dna usa questa guida: * ⁠selezioni la voce selettore dinamico * ⁠imposti type 1 * ⁠confermi * ⁠torni a inizio pagina * ⁠avvia allineamento proxy * ⁠appena parte l’allineamento proxy con la prima centralina scolleghi dalla presa obd * ⁠la seconda centralina che allinea è la ECU Motore quindi colleghi subito l’interfaccia * ⁠appena ti dà eseguito e inizia la centralina successiva stacchi l’interfaccia dalla presa obd e lasci fallire gli allineamenti * ⁠ti dirà di collegare adattatore blu e poi il bianco tu lascia fare e lascia interfaccia scollegata * ⁠alla fine ti dirà allineamento proxy effettuato
 
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