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How to enable "Race" mode on non-QV 2017-2019

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#1 · (Edited)
This will hopefully be an all encompassing topic on the different ways to enable race mode on the Base / Ti / Veloce / Lusso versions of the 2017-2019 Giulia in North America. These procedures may or may not work in other regions... FYI YMMV

NOTE: 2020+ with the monostable DNA selector (the one that always reverts to N) does not require a replacement DNA+R dial. All that is needed is the SGW bypass, MES, blue and grey cables, and USB OBD adapter.

Here is a YouTube Video from @TheFallen8598 for installing the Race DNA selector and using the latest version of Multiecuscan to enable Race Mode. THANK YOU!



The process can be completed by choosing one of a couple different options, your choice, choose your own adventure:

Mandatory Step 1/2 (read completely first):
  1. You will need a Multiecuscan (MES) license.
    1. Install on a Windows 10 laptop. (Refer to the MES site for configuration assistance.)
  2. Purchase an ODB2 USB adapter.
    1. The MES site has recommendations.
    2. I use the OBDLink SX and it works great.
  3. Find some of the Fiat / Alfa / Lancia OBD2 adapter cables.
    1. As stated on the MES site, you will need the blue and gray cables (#5 and #6 respectively) in order to access the necessary vehicle modules through the OBD2 port. (Note: All module access is through the OBD2 port)
    2. I purchased this set on eBay, shipping took a little bit as I am in the States.
  4. For 2018 + Giulia's (U.S. date of manufacture after February 1st 2018, EU after early April 2018) it is likely that you have a device in your car called a Security Gateway Module (SGW / SGM) that prevents unauthorized writing to the vehicles many modules. You need a bypass device.
    1. WARNING!!!! The SGW Bypass from Eurocompulsion will NEED to be modified in order to work with this Race mode modification. My suggestion is to purchase from @Alfissimo International or Squadra Tuning.
    2. I purchased one from EuroCompulsion, but as stated I had to open it up and modify it so it can communicate with all CAN busses.
      95626
    3. To determine whether or not you have a SGW module in your vehicle, use MES and your OBD2 USB adapter to toggle a parameter, like the horn. If you can toggle the horn, you do not have a SGW module in your car, you may proceed to one of the next Options (1 or 2).
    4. If you received an error trying to toggle a parameter, please read:
    5. The SGW module prevents writing to the ECM and other vehicle modules. You MUST install a bypass to get around it or just stop now, continuing is useless.
    6. Modify or pay someone to modify the SGW bypass to allow access to all of the vehicles modules. If you don't modify the SGW bypass, you will be unable to complete this process as you are required to perform a PROXI alignment and calibrations.
    7. Installation of the SGW bypass is described in other topics here, and also on the EuroCompulsion site.
Now for options!

NOTE: If you have the monostable DNA selector (the one that always returns to the N position) you do NOT need to choose one of the options below, you're ready to rock with what you have. (Thanks, @shpuncik for the info)

Option 1: (I have a bit of money and no time to waste, or I have a bit of money and no soldering skills.)
  1. Purchase and install the RDNA selector for a Quadrifoglio. Where? Dealership or other. Figure it out, you're smart.
    1. Remove the center console pieces.
      1. Remove the shifter trim piece by prying up on the front of it with your fingers, it pulls straight up with a little bit of force.
      2. Next start at the front by the cup holders for the larger front center console piece. Pull back while lifting up and it should pop.
      3. The piece that the center storage is surrounded by is the same, pull in and up on the sides of it though. You'll get it. Just don't twist or force (bend) any of them, only pull and work fairly straight and upwards.
    2. Once the trim is loose, it's pretty simple, it only requires some torx bits to remove and replace the switch. Don't drop a screw, ask me why.
    3. Re-install the trim pieces in reverse order. Remember that the two main center console pieces fit together prior to reconnecting them to the center console base.
Option 2: (Modify your existing DNA selector. You need to be fairly adept at soldering and working with surface mount devices.)
  1. Procure the resistor and switch defined below. I purchased 10 of each, destroying 4 of the switches in the process of discovering how this all works out though :p.
  2. Disassemble the DNA selector...
    1. This is a tough one to describe as I did not take photos while I disassembled... sorry.
    2. While pinching the plastic piece with the needle-nose pliers, pull up (Orange arrow) while also pushing out on the tabs (yellow arrows).
      1. 90482
    3. Next, you will see a white plastic piece in there (pictured below, sorry no action shots). On the top and bottom of it, the black plastic is keeping the white plastic from coming out of the bottom (in reference to the above photo). Use a small flat head (standard) screwdriver to pry out the black tabs so the white plastic can come out the bottom along with the rest of the selector. You will need to pull pretty good to overcome the 4 extra retention tabs around the circumference of the dial (see below photo, right hand part).
      90483
    4. If you got this far, the rest is pretty easy. BE CAREFUL not to break any tabs.
    5. You will need to remove the pin (small arrow below) on the switch prior to installing it. The arrow is pointing to the pin that needs removal. Bend the metal contact off of the micro-switch using tweezers, make sure any left over nub will not make contact with the circuit board pad. Ideally, this switch should be a DPST-NO (Double Pole - Single Throw - Normally Open) It will work with this modification though.
    6. Install the resistor first in the spot defined in this photo (large arrow).
      Image
    7. Install the switch on the circuit board. The guide pins will fit into the holes in the board to assist with alignment. Tweezers help with holding it down. It's a delicate switch, so don't overheat it.
    8. Re-assemble your new RDNA selector and install.
You may have warning lights when you turn on the car. Go ahead and clear those out using MES (see MES site, figure it out).


Micro-switch info for DIY option #1 above:
  • Digi-Key part number: CKN10548CT-ND
  • Manufacturer part number: HDP001R

Manufacturer​
C&K
Series​
HDP
Circuit​
SPST-NO
Switch Function​
Off-Mom
Current Rating (Amps)​
1mA (DC)
Voltage Rating - DC​
5V
Actuator Type​
Angled Toggle (Detector)
Mounting Type​
Surface Mount, Right Angle
Termination Style​
Gull Wing
Features​
Board Guide
Pretravel​
0.006" (0.15mm)
Operating Temperature​
-20°C ~ 70°C
Operating Position​
0.117" (2.96mm)

Resistor:
Digi-Key part number: A110463CT-ND
Manufacturer part number: 4-2176091-0
ManufacturerTE Connectivity Passive Product
SeriesRP73P, Holsworthy
Packaging Cut Tape (CT)
Part StatusActive
Resistance147 Ohms
Tolerance±0.1%
Power (Watts)0.25W, 1/4W
CompositionThin Film
Temperature Coefficient±25ppm/°C
Operating Temperature-55°C ~ 155°C
Package / Case0805 (2012 Metric)
Supplier Device Package0805
Size / Dimension0.079" L x 0.049" W (2.00mm x 1.25mm)
Height - Seated (Max)0.026" (0.65mm)
Number of Terminations2


Mandatory Step 2/2: (Configure ECM!! BCM? ABS?)

Configure the ECM to allow the RDNA selector to toggle Race mode

Open MES and select the following:
  1. Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 Turbo 16V Multiair --> Body --> CAN Setup / PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (952)
  2. Click Connect
  3. If older than MES version 4.5:
    1. To enter PROXI configuration, go to the Adjustment tab, then hit Ctrl+Alt+C (Custom PROXI)
    2. Find byte 88. It should be "AC" (OEM value for NA 2018 2.0T Ti Sport Q4)
    3. Replace AC with CC or EC in byte 88 (see info below for which mode to choose)
    4. Hit the Execute or OK button (I don't remember what it is :p)
  4. If MES 4.5 or higher:
    1. Click the Adjustments tab, select Dynamic Control Selector, click Execute in the lower right
    2. Choose either of the other two modes besides Type 1 (OEM setting AC)
      1. Type 3/DNA/Sport is the same as EC and Type 2/DNA is CC (see below)
    3. Choose one and click OK
  5. Select PROXI ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE and hit Execute
  6. Follow the prompts, switch cables when prompted
  7. Once the PROXI alignment procedure is complete you will need to run a few calibrations to remove the numerous warning lights you more than likely have
  8. Disconnect from the Body module
  9. Connect to the Electric Steering module and view the Steering Angle parameter. Move the steering wheel so the reading is 0°. This can take a while to get exact, be patient. DO NOT TOUCH STEERING WHEEL AFTER THIS
  10. Disconnect from the Electric Steering module
  11. Connect to the ABS module (ABS / Continental ABS MK C1)
    1. Requires 6/gray cable
  12. Select the Adjustments tab and perform the following three procedures:
    1. Reset steering angle (let's get that one out of the way first)
    2. Lateral and longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration
    3. Pressure sensor calibration
  13. Once these are complete, disconnect from the ABS module
  14. Unplug the OBD2 adapter.
  15. Turn off the vehicle and wait 30 seconds until the dash lights all turn off.
  16. Start vehicle
  17. Turn steering wheel full lock to left and right.
  18. Turn off vehicle again
  19. Turn on and all warning lights should be gone
    1. If not, try turning vehicle off for another 30 seconds, rinse and repeat until clear
WARNING: If you are unable to successfully complete a PROXI alignment, potentially due to outdated CDCM or other module(s), there is a chance that it will leave you in a sort of hidden limp mode. See @Drew 's post HERE where his flashing odometer was more than just a visual annoyance.

MODES:

Byte 88=AC (Stock)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in all modes
  • A = A in ECM/BCM
  • N = N in ECM/BCM
  • D = D in ECM/BCM
  • R = No change
Byte 88=CC (Type 2/DNA)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • Race Mode =
    • Race mode is indicated
    • Larger speed indication in center display
    • Non-functioning shift indicator in center display
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport)
  • ASC/TCS enabled in normal DNA modes
  • A = N in ECM
  • A = A in BCM
  • N = N in ECM
  • N = N in BCM
  • D = N in ECM
  • D = D in BCM
  • ASC/TSC off mode =
    • Race mode is not indicated, only yellow FCW and ASC/TCS dash indicators
    • N in ECM
    • D in BCM
    • ? in TCM
    • Disables FCW
    • Disables ASC/TCS
CURRENT QUESTIONS / DEBATES:
  1. In any mode besides the default Type 1 (byte 88=AC) does Dynamic or "Race" mode ever use the Dynamic ECM map? By altering byte 88 some think that the Dynamic map is never used.
  2. Is N really the only map that is available in the ECM when Race mode modification is in place (when byte 88 is not AC)?
  3. Which mode is the best to use for an ECM tune like the Eurocompulsion Euro+Drive Tuning System?
    1. We believe at this point, the tune from EC whether it's P1 or P2 will need to be in map N, and may as well put in D also, in case Race Mode Mod is removed.
KNOWN ISSUES / RESOLUTIONS:

  • Error: WRITING PROXI DATA Drive Train Control Node (DTCM)... FAILED! - Request out of range error
  • Error: Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) EOL Failed
  • Could be a simple case of older than required firmware in the DTCM module.
    • Yanislav Karagyozov (MES author) stated tyhat "This happens on some Giulia/Stelvio DTCM modules when you try to enable race mode because the DTCM does not support sport mode.
  • Resolution: Only guessing here, but you may have to get the DTCM module updated by a dealer. Replacing the module with a newer version may introduce version incompatibilities with the other modules, so be careful.
 
#813 ·
oh, and most people have no issues with adding the race mode. It's been seen on some Euro spec stuff that paddles stop working, but US should be OK as far as I know.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#815 ·
Hey everyone. Just installed mine and got an instant check engine light after PROXI alignment. It failed on the grey and blue connectors at first and then I reran it and all appeared to be fine except for a CEL upon engine start. I got a code for CAN communication error and cleared it. Turned it off let it sit turned it back on. Multiecuscan checked again and said no errors reported but still have the CEL.
 
#817 ·
Turn steering wheel all the way from lock to lock, turn off, see how it goes.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#818 ·
For me, that did not work. The check engine stays on even after everything else is fixed with the lock to lock. I always have to connect to the engine ECU, read DTCs (always empty), clear DTCs, keycycle and than it is gone. Bear in mind, that mine is a diesel with a different engine ECU, so might be different for the petrol versions.
 
#828 ·
Ok so update for you all. I had been running race mode for a year and a half now with a blinking odometer due to my 2017 DTCM being on version 401. I thought everything was good and had no errors or codes or anything else giving me an issue. Car drove fine and the extra stiff suspension was nice and I had done multiple track days this way.

Well recently I installed a hybrid turbo because I hated how gutless my car seemed past 80. I needed more power and speed for the straights on the tracks I love so much. I figured it was just how the car was with the stock turbo. Well after installing the hybrid turbo my car seemed exactly the same. Using dragy I only was doing 0-60 in ~5 seconds. Boost looked good and AFR looked good. At VIR I was struggling to get over 120 on these huge straights.

With @bhvrdr help we discovered my car was pulling up to 8° timing! I did more pulls and logs and looked at logs from last year and saw the same thing. I didn't realize it since I work from home and hadn't been going out much and definitely not pushing it that hard when I do. I then thought back to I hadn't hit 4.6 0-60 since before race mode.

So yesterday I turned race mode off and did the proxi and no longer have an unhappy odometer. Doing some hard pulls I no longer see timing being pulled and it feels much quicker! Ugh I had done multiple track days like this. Wish I had looked more closely at my jb4 logs.

So, yes having an unhappy DTCM will affect your car, just not in the most obvious way.
 
#829 ·
That's crazy!! So, a failed PROXI will put you in a sort of limp mode. weird.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#832 ·
Please if you have 1 minute of time to Breack the Balls to Alfa Romeo social's make ears us wish of Race Mode.

#DateciIlRaceModeOnAllGiulia
#DateciIlRaceModesuGiulia
#GiveUsRaceModeOnAllGiulia



www.facebook.com

ALFA ROMEO

Nuove Alfa Romeo Giulia e Stelvio. Bellezza senza tempo, emozioni senza fine. https://www.media.stellantis.com/it-it/alfa-romeo/press/alfa-romeo-giulia-e-stelvio-la-bellezza-senza-tempo...
www.facebook.com www.facebook.com

Sorry for my very bad English 😅🤣🤣🤣
 
#835 ·
Friendly said:
So i have the problem where i do al the steps. i evene get the warnings on the infotainment. but it wont go in race mode....

Nothing in the cluster. ive done this to other 2.0 giulias but this one wont work. any help?

Can it be the gearbox software?

its a european 2017 2.0 petrol
Click to expand...
Odo blinking?

When it goes through without errors everything works. If some module resist the change -> odo blinking and may not work as supposed. Do you have mes log?
 
#837 ·
@JeFizz is there anything that I could skip?

I own Giulia late 2017 2.0 16v 280hp rwd and with active suspension, all controllers are upgraded to the latest firmware. i’ve installed DNA selector from QV with Race mode and active suspension button.
in the multiecuscan Type3 DNA / Sport was already chosen.. however I tried different variants. Made multiple times Proxy Alignment which has finished successfully. Odometer isn’t blinking. All calibrations were made in ABS. So looks like all fine and like everybody is telling in instructions. However, when I switch to Race nothing just happens. All other modes works like before but Race has no effect.
also interesting that in the Multiecuscan there is a menu where you can see which mode on the selector is enabled and if I switch to Race it is shown there, but no effect in the car. ESC and other things are still enabled like per default.

is there any known reasons for that? I have some ACC error in my DASM block C1452-86, but not sure it might block Race mode to be enabled? Or am I wrong?
 
#843 ·
I understand if you change Byte 88 then the ECM is in N mode which effects the throttle.

Does N mode also have different engine map than D?

Meaning is the timing, boost, etc different between the two?

I've tried to do pulls in my stock car in manual mode from the same RPM and doesn't seem like a difference but I haven't tried to use a performance meter either.
 
#844 ·
alfpogs said:
I understand if you change Byte 88 then the ECM is in N mode which effects the throttle.

Does N mode also have different engine map than D?

Meaning is the timing, boost, etc different between the two?

I've tried to do pulls in my stock car in manual mode from the same RPM and doesn't seem like a difference but I haven't tried to use a performance meter either.
Click to expand...
I can't say for certain, but the general consensus is that N is the same as D for engine. Throttle is different. N is linear, whereas D is a more touchy curve.
 
#864 ·
Hi all! Sorry if my question is stupid, but today I tried to enable race mode on an MY17 Giulia 2.2D Manual6 car. But no luck. Looks like everything is fine, bunt won't work. I tried to search, but I can't find any relevant. Somebody can help me? What do I wrong? I done this many cars but all is 2.0T Gasoline and ZF8HP.

Thank You!
Best
 
#865 ·
Did you hold it in the Race position for a few seconds?
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#867 ·
q4 in south jersey need help someone who knows how to use mes well. my cars a 2017 keeps failing for drive train node out of range. I can get race mode to work but my obd is flashing. ive tried like 30 proxy alignments and even went to my alfa dealer, and even they cant get it to stop flashing with my race mode still working. going to be sending my ecu out to eurocompulsion soon so they can update my tune but i want to get the obd flash fixed before i do so. thanks in advance anyone who can help.
 
#878 ·
I'm honestly thinking that Type 3 is more like a Dynamic+. I was running it for a while to see how it behaved and felt as though shifts were no different, and TCS/ESC were still fully functional. After switching back to Type 2, I feel as though shifts are a tad snappier, and TCS/ESC are comparable to R on the QV... not that I have experience in one.

IIRC, type 3 still allows auto start stop to engage, but yeah, FCW is off and IMO is the most important option as it saves you messing with the Infotainment to turn it off, temporarily.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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#881 ·
Ok, so here is my situation with enabling Race mode on '19 Giulia Q4:
I've bought race mode kit (selector + adaptive suspension computer) from Alfissimo.
Went through all instructions:
  • disconnected the battery
  • swapped the suspension computer (GTAm flavor)
  • replaced DNA selector with DNAR selector
  • reconnected the battery
  • ran PROXI alignment
  • ran accelerometers calibration

Everything worked successfully, but Race mode didn't appear. When I mode selector past D nothing happens. I tried both Type 2 and Type 3. I verified that byte #88 is CC.
What else should I check?

Does anyone know which version of DTCM unit is required? Dealer told me that "gearbox version should be greater than 003". Mine is "0007".

Also did someone successfully installed race mode with GTAm box?
 
#882 ·
michaels said:
Ok, so here is my situation with enabling Race mode on '19 Giulia Q4:
I've bought race mode kit (selector + adaptive suspension computer) from Alfissimo.
Went through all instructions:
  • disconnected the battery
  • swapped the suspension computer (GTAm flavor)
  • replaced DNA selector with DNAR selector
  • reconnected the battery
  • ran PROXI alignment
  • ran accelerometers calibration

Everything worked successfully, but Race mode didn't appear. When I mode selector past D nothing happens. I tried both Type 2 and Type 3. I verified that byte #88 is CC.
What else should I check?

Does anyone know which version of DTCM unit is required? Dealer told me that "gearbox version should be greater than 003". Mine is "0007".

Also did someone successfully installed race mode with GTAm box?
Click to expand...
Did you pause long enough when you turned the dial past D? It takes a split second to engage.
 
owns 2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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