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Finally completed audio upgrade on base audio

4.3K views 18 replies 4 participants last post by  dananton485  
#1 · (Edited)
Video it's long but hopefully helpful
Gear list:
Front stage: Morel Virtus front 6.5" components
Rear fill: Morel Maximo 6.5" components\
Sub: Polk DB subwoofer svc 8" in 1-inch Qubic ft enclosure
Amps 2 JL RD 400/4. Amp 1 bridged stereo 2 channel 200 wpc rms 4 ohms
Amp 2 JL RD 400/4 channels 1&2 stereo for rear fill channels 3&4 bridged mono for a single 8" 4 ohm sub 200 wpc

Okay, so I have posted a lot of posts and some of the info is outdated since in the course of the project I learned a few things.

First off don’t worry about the battery just disconnect the negative quick terminal off. When your done connect it back on. You’ll have a ton of dash lights. Don’t worry. Turn the steering wheel to the far left then far right. Drive around the block. With the car still running lift upward on each widow switch for 10 seconds. Then roll the windows down and hold the switch down for 10 seconds. Turn the car off then turn it back on and all codes will clear. You will need to reset the clock.

First off I can now verify that using a 40-pin Fakra adapter works to get speaker signals back to the amp. This allows you to splice into the extender avoiding cutting factory wire. It also somewhat simplifies installation as you can use the OEM wires to run to the doors. One exception is the dash tweeters which I ran fresh wire to directly from an external passive crossover. Also, I can verify there will be no dash light as long as you use an audio control LOC(Line Output converter) with the load resister switch set to 20 ohms. Models that have this switch are the Audio Control Loc 1, Loc 2 pro, and the Micro-Epicenter.


Other useful notes: I found the best amp turn-on was using audio mode. The GTO just came on too much and I was worried about battery drain. I also set the Guilia auto radio-on setting to "off". When I enter the car the radio is off. I then manually turn it on each time and the JL amps have a nice soft turn on. FYI my base knob was installed near the radio controls just in front of the console lid. The led is a nice indicator on the bass knob also it lets me know the amps are turning on.

So the benefit of the Audio Control LOC is a load resistance switch, line driver with max light for setting initial gains on the LOC as well as the audio detect feature to turn on your amps without a turn-on lead from the factory unit. Also as mentioned in other posts I can verify the factory head unit clips at level 29. I used a pocket oscilloscope and a 0 db 1khz test tone. So I set my first loc for the front channels by setting the head unit to 28 and then turned the front LOC unit until the maximized light came on then backed off the gain till the light went off. I used that as my master LOC gain setting making sure the second unit was at or below this level. I started with both amp gains turned all the way down then set my front amp gain first then the rear channels at a lower level by ear and then the bass channel which was a little different because I wanted some headroom for the bass control knob. I found the sub which had a lower sensitivity rating of 88db compared to the other speakers therefore it needed a little more juice but not much.


Other lessons learned include using a nice component for the rear doors but one that has a smaller passive crossover that can fit into the door panel. This simplifies installation for the rear doors as well. For the front stage, I had a more expensive set of components with very large passive crossovers. Also being that the factory tweeter location is on the dash and not the door this worked out fine. I had the passive crossovers in my trunk and sent a dedicated leed for each tweeter from the crossover to the front dash. The front mids I tapped into the 40-pin Fakra extender I mentioned earlier. FYI final note is the dash light/impedance detector is only connected to the factory mids so if you leave the factory tweeter connections unconnected it will not throw a dash light. This is verified. FYI for the rear doors the factory tweeter was replaced s and I connected a new wire running to the tweeter from within the door.

Other changes recently I decided not to install the 6-channel audio control Digital EQ - just too many RCA and I felt maybe it was overkill. In retrospect, this was the right decision as the system sounds great with the amps, speakers, and crossovers set properly. I’m running the Morel Virtuse 6.5” components in the front full range (no amp active crossover just the two-way Morel passives). The tweeter level is set in the middle of the flat setting. For the rear fill the Morel Maximo’s are in the rear doors currently set to 80 hz high pass active from the amp while the sub is also set at 80hz lowpass. Seems to work great with all types of music so far and my bass and treble controls are set to flat as well and my fader is in the middle. However, as mentioned previously the gains are set lower on the rear door amp to achieve this. So far there is a lot of headroom can’t really see turning it up past 23 or 24 on the OEM volume control. This is for FLAC files playing off of USB which is my main source of music.

I’m in the process of making a final video of all this and will post it when it is all completed. Feel free to ask any questions. I will be glad to help anyone who is upgrading their base audio system.

If I had to do it over again I probably would have used the Morel Maximo components in the front as well. There is very little actual performance difference that I can tell through actual listening and I have to say the Virtus is very overpriced yet high quality I would probably never go beyond the Vertuse I just can't see how much better it could be. The Maximo on the other hand is probably one of the best speakers out there for the performance and price point. Especially when driven by a quality amp.
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#5 · (Edited)
Thanks if you have questions feel free to ask. I have a one hour video Video it's long but hopefully helpful It is boring in parts but I think it would be helpful in providing some answers to various install questions. Most of the video covers everything but I did not get into the Fakra adapter details that I posted on other posts but the Fakra adaptor and wire codes are verified and I had no warning lights using the Audio Control LOC units (highly recommend these)
 
#3 ·
Also as mentioned in other posts I can verify the factory head unit clips at level 29. I used a pocket oscilloscope and a 0 db 1khz test tone.
Mine clipped at 22. The correct test tone frequency to use is 650Hz, this is the peak output frequency with the factory EQ not bypassed. You will also get an artificially higher number if the engine is running and the alternator is charging (higher voltage in to the head unit is higher unclipped output from the internal amplifier).

It'll also depend a little on what source you're using on the head unit. Aux input is a big variable because how much voltage you're shoving into the 3.5mm jack in the car will vary what point the head unit clips at.
 
#4 · (Edited)
There is no EQ unless your talking about the bass/treble controls. I'm referring to the base audio system (non-HK) sound system. I had the tone controls flat and the car was not running during the test so it was just off an input voltage of 12 volts running off the battery. I'm not sure where you came up with the 650Hz figure but I doubt it would would give much different results but maybe it would. Mayber a level or two but not the difference you're stating. That being said I have previously ran the stereo prior to this test pretty high around level 34 and did not hear any audiable distortion but that was listening to music not test tones. In the final analysis I can confidently say that for the base system you can go up to 28 and use that to set your gains. Its all relative we're in the real world listening to music not test tones. Again only speaking for the base audio system not HK sound system which may be much different, not sure. As already stated this is only rated and set using the USB input and FLAC files which is what I always listen to. I'm not sure how much this really matters I know I probably I left headroom on the table.

Since installing the system I don't think I ever set the volume higher than 23 or 24. My amp gains are real low maybe at 25 percent as the LOC has a strong line driver built in providing good voltage. I did not max out my gains on the amps to the brink no need as I am getting great results with lower settings. My main concern was getting the LOC set properly at level 28 once that was established using my pocket O scope. After that I set the other levels manually. My results are clean and distortion free and probably better than those who max out their gain settings. Just because you can go higher doesn't mean you should or that it's better. That's an opinion and I'm sure others will disagree, but hey I've only been building systems for 20 years so what do I know.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Well, I'm skeptical about your measurements. So far my system as is sounds great to me but I will admit I have not listened to other sources other than USB input. I do have a professional RTA measurement microphone so maybe I will crack out my laptop and RTA with some pink noise and see if there are any real peak output issues with EQ manipulation. I certainly won't be measuring it at anywhere near 100db levels.

I would expect EQ manipulation on the HK system as HK is in general is known for such tweeks and they are also using active crossovers in their system as well as other methods. Still I wouldn't think they would boost the lower midrange area as this would create a drone like sound.

The base system doesn't seem to be a good motivation or reason to drastically EQ the car as your graph suggests since the OEM base speakers actually perform well both in and out of the car. I have bench tested the OEM speakers with decent results so it seems there would be no need for the factory to initiate such a drastic EQ correction. Especially at the 650hz range which makes no sense to me.

Most manufactures that do mess with eq apply an active filter on the lower frequencies to improve performance. This would be expected at frequencies 150 hz and below. I'm not sure why the graph you linked to showes that the factory would create a peak at the 650 hz range. I did notice the measurements were taken at way over 100 db level which seems to make me wonder if that had something to do with the results. Almost all speakers, even cheap ones, can play the the midrange frequencies with little effort so that whole scenario of the factory boosting the 650hz midrange makes no logical sense to me. Why would they do it? Speakers don't need help in that region. It doesnt make any speaker sound better regardless of quality. The graph is showing an 8 db boost there and I certainly can't hear that when listening to my system. At the same time looking at that graph there is significant peak at the 50-60hz range though not as pronounced as the 650hz peak it still seems about 4db up at that level. Why would they eq that? This would be harder on their factory speakers to perfom bass which would defy logic. Seems like they would just not eq it at all which is what I think they actually did. I edit audio as part of my work as a professional so I would think my ear would be able to discern such a large boost in that 650hz range. That midrange area is very droning when boosted so I'm sure if it were actually there I would notice it so I'm currently doubting the methodology in how this measurement was taken and what equipment was used to acheive these results.

In any case, I have no access to the ETM to change byte settings as I don't have the software or special cables required. I could enable the accubase correction on my Audio control LOC unit if I felt the lower frequencies where being attenuated or something so I suppose I could look into that after cracking out my RTA and RTA mic. Currently Accubase correction is completely off as during my original research, and my ear it seemed to indicate that the base audio system had no eq correction to it. Certainly listening to my system there is good bass response in the 50 to 60hz range so any lack of base through OEM EQ settings I'm guessing would have been in the lower 40hz range which is pretty low but maybe the accubase could correct that not sure if it's needed.
 
#8 · (Edited)
First off, another user replied with essentially identical measurements. Doubt my measurement all you want, but it was confirmed by somebody else.
Secondly, those measurements were made electrically. The absolute SPL level is not relevant. I am obviously not measuring this output acoustically, that would be irrelevant.

A lot has changed in car audio over 20 years. Base systems from everyone have substantial amounts of EQ now. The head units have the processing power for it, gone are the days of needing hardware based filters. Some of the factory EQ is just correcting for the response environment of the car, but not all of it. A lot of the best high end car audio shops have turned their stage 1 audio upgrade into just adding a DSP and amplifier to the stock speakers because fixing the factory processing is their first order of business.
 
#12 ·
Okay so it’s the base audio system without external amplification under HU power.

When you took the measurement did you use pink noise? You said you did this electronically what exactly does that mean? For example are you saying you played a pink noise track and measured the speaker or line level signal outputs to get your results? I understand you did not use a n RTA mic just wondering exactly how the measurement was achieved.
 
#13 ·
Okay so it’s the base audio system without external amplification under HU power.

When you took the measurement did you use pink noise? You said you did this electronically what exactly does that mean? For example are you saying you played a pink noise track and measured the speaker or line level signal outputs to get your results? I understand you did not use a n RTA mic just wondering exactly how the measurement was achieved.
I would assume he used the line level output into an input on a laptop. Pure electrical signal measurement.
 
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