Video it's long but hopefully helpful
Gear list:
Front stage: Morel Virtus front 6.5" components
Rear fill: Morel Maximo 6.5" components\
Sub: Polk DB subwoofer svc 8" in 1-inch Qubic ft enclosure
Amps 2 JL RD 400/4. Amp 1 bridged stereo 2 channel 200 wpc rms 4 ohms
Amp 2 JL RD 400/4 channels 1&2 stereo for rear fill channels 3&4 bridged mono for a single 8" 4 ohm sub 200 wpc
Okay, so I have posted a lot of posts and some of the info is outdated since in the course of the project I learned a few things.
First off don’t worry about the battery just disconnect the negative quick terminal off. When your done connect it back on. You’ll have a ton of dash lights. Don’t worry. Turn the steering wheel to the far left then far right. Drive around the block. With the car still running lift upward on each widow switch for 10 seconds. Then roll the windows down and hold the switch down for 10 seconds. Turn the car off then turn it back on and all codes will clear. You will need to reset the clock.
First off I can now verify that using a 40-pin Fakra adapter works to get speaker signals back to the amp. This allows you to splice into the extender avoiding cutting factory wire. It also somewhat simplifies installation as you can use the OEM wires to run to the doors. One exception is the dash tweeters which I ran fresh wire to directly from an external passive crossover. Also, I can verify there will be no dash light as long as you use an audio control LOC(Line Output converter) with the load resister switch set to 20 ohms. Models that have this switch are the Audio Control Loc 1, Loc 2 pro, and the Micro-Epicenter.
Other useful notes: I found the best amp turn-on was using audio mode. The GTO just came on too much and I was worried about battery drain. I also set the Guilia auto radio-on setting to "off". When I enter the car the radio is off. I then manually turn it on each time and the JL amps have a nice soft turn on. FYI my base knob was installed near the radio controls just in front of the console lid. The led is a nice indicator on the bass knob also it lets me know the amps are turning on.
So the benefit of the Audio Control LOC is a load resistance switch, line driver with max light for setting initial gains on the LOC as well as the audio detect feature to turn on your amps without a turn-on lead from the factory unit. Also as mentioned in other posts I can verify the factory head unit clips at level 29. I used a pocket oscilloscope and a 0 db 1khz test tone. So I set my first loc for the front channels by setting the head unit to 28 and then turned the front LOC unit until the maximized light came on then backed off the gain till the light went off. I used that as my master LOC gain setting making sure the second unit was at or below this level. I started with both amp gains turned all the way down then set my front amp gain first then the rear channels at a lower level by ear and then the bass channel which was a little different because I wanted some headroom for the bass control knob. I found the sub which had a lower sensitivity rating of 88db compared to the other speakers therefore it needed a little more juice but not much.
Other lessons learned include using a nice component for the rear doors but one that has a smaller passive crossover that can fit into the door panel. This simplifies installation for the rear doors as well. For the front stage, I had a more expensive set of components with very large passive crossovers. Also being that the factory tweeter location is on the dash and not the door this worked out fine. I had the passive crossovers in my trunk and sent a dedicated leed for each tweeter from the crossover to the front dash. The front mids I tapped into the 40-pin Fakra extender I mentioned earlier. FYI final note is the dash light/impedance detector is only connected to the factory mids so if you leave the factory tweeter connections unconnected it will not throw a dash light. This is verified. FYI for the rear doors the factory tweeter was replaced s and I connected a new wire running to the tweeter from within the door.
Other changes recently I decided not to install the 6-channel audio control Digital EQ - just too many RCA and I felt maybe it was overkill. In retrospect, this was the right decision as the system sounds great with the amps, speakers, and crossovers set properly. I’m running the Morel Virtuse 6.5” components in the front full range (no amp active crossover just the two-way Morel passives). The tweeter level is set in the middle of the flat setting. For the rear fill the Morel Maximo’s are in the rear doors currently set to 80 hz high pass active from the amp while the sub is also set at 80hz lowpass. Seems to work great with all types of music so far and my bass and treble controls are set to flat as well and my fader is in the middle. However, as mentioned previously the gains are set lower on the rear door amp to achieve this. So far there is a lot of headroom can’t really see turning it up past 23 or 24 on the OEM volume control. This is for FLAC files playing off of USB which is my main source of music.
I’m in the process of making a final video of all this and will post it when it is all completed. Feel free to ask any questions. I will be glad to help anyone who is upgrading their base audio system.
If I had to do it over again I probably would have used the Morel Maximo components in the front as well. There is very little actual performance difference that I can tell through actual listening and I have to say the Virtus is very overpriced yet high quality I would probably never go beyond the Vertuse I just can't see how much better it could be. The Maximo on the other hand is probably one of the best speakers out there for the performance and price point. Especially when driven by a quality amp.
Gear list:
Front stage: Morel Virtus front 6.5" components
Rear fill: Morel Maximo 6.5" components\
Sub: Polk DB subwoofer svc 8" in 1-inch Qubic ft enclosure
Amps 2 JL RD 400/4. Amp 1 bridged stereo 2 channel 200 wpc rms 4 ohms
Amp 2 JL RD 400/4 channels 1&2 stereo for rear fill channels 3&4 bridged mono for a single 8" 4 ohm sub 200 wpc
Okay, so I have posted a lot of posts and some of the info is outdated since in the course of the project I learned a few things.
First off don’t worry about the battery just disconnect the negative quick terminal off. When your done connect it back on. You’ll have a ton of dash lights. Don’t worry. Turn the steering wheel to the far left then far right. Drive around the block. With the car still running lift upward on each widow switch for 10 seconds. Then roll the windows down and hold the switch down for 10 seconds. Turn the car off then turn it back on and all codes will clear. You will need to reset the clock.
First off I can now verify that using a 40-pin Fakra adapter works to get speaker signals back to the amp. This allows you to splice into the extender avoiding cutting factory wire. It also somewhat simplifies installation as you can use the OEM wires to run to the doors. One exception is the dash tweeters which I ran fresh wire to directly from an external passive crossover. Also, I can verify there will be no dash light as long as you use an audio control LOC(Line Output converter) with the load resister switch set to 20 ohms. Models that have this switch are the Audio Control Loc 1, Loc 2 pro, and the Micro-Epicenter.
Other useful notes: I found the best amp turn-on was using audio mode. The GTO just came on too much and I was worried about battery drain. I also set the Guilia auto radio-on setting to "off". When I enter the car the radio is off. I then manually turn it on each time and the JL amps have a nice soft turn on. FYI my base knob was installed near the radio controls just in front of the console lid. The led is a nice indicator on the bass knob also it lets me know the amps are turning on.
So the benefit of the Audio Control LOC is a load resistance switch, line driver with max light for setting initial gains on the LOC as well as the audio detect feature to turn on your amps without a turn-on lead from the factory unit. Also as mentioned in other posts I can verify the factory head unit clips at level 29. I used a pocket oscilloscope and a 0 db 1khz test tone. So I set my first loc for the front channels by setting the head unit to 28 and then turned the front LOC unit until the maximized light came on then backed off the gain till the light went off. I used that as my master LOC gain setting making sure the second unit was at or below this level. I started with both amp gains turned all the way down then set my front amp gain first then the rear channels at a lower level by ear and then the bass channel which was a little different because I wanted some headroom for the bass control knob. I found the sub which had a lower sensitivity rating of 88db compared to the other speakers therefore it needed a little more juice but not much.
Other lessons learned include using a nice component for the rear doors but one that has a smaller passive crossover that can fit into the door panel. This simplifies installation for the rear doors as well. For the front stage, I had a more expensive set of components with very large passive crossovers. Also being that the factory tweeter location is on the dash and not the door this worked out fine. I had the passive crossovers in my trunk and sent a dedicated leed for each tweeter from the crossover to the front dash. The front mids I tapped into the 40-pin Fakra extender I mentioned earlier. FYI final note is the dash light/impedance detector is only connected to the factory mids so if you leave the factory tweeter connections unconnected it will not throw a dash light. This is verified. FYI for the rear doors the factory tweeter was replaced s and I connected a new wire running to the tweeter from within the door.
Other changes recently I decided not to install the 6-channel audio control Digital EQ - just too many RCA and I felt maybe it was overkill. In retrospect, this was the right decision as the system sounds great with the amps, speakers, and crossovers set properly. I’m running the Morel Virtuse 6.5” components in the front full range (no amp active crossover just the two-way Morel passives). The tweeter level is set in the middle of the flat setting. For the rear fill the Morel Maximo’s are in the rear doors currently set to 80 hz high pass active from the amp while the sub is also set at 80hz lowpass. Seems to work great with all types of music so far and my bass and treble controls are set to flat as well and my fader is in the middle. However, as mentioned previously the gains are set lower on the rear door amp to achieve this. So far there is a lot of headroom can’t really see turning it up past 23 or 24 on the OEM volume control. This is for FLAC files playing off of USB which is my main source of music.
I’m in the process of making a final video of all this and will post it when it is all completed. Feel free to ask any questions. I will be glad to help anyone who is upgrading their base audio system.
If I had to do it over again I probably would have used the Morel Maximo components in the front as well. There is very little actual performance difference that I can tell through actual listening and I have to say the Virtus is very overpriced yet high quality I would probably never go beyond the Vertuse I just can't see how much better it could be. The Maximo on the other hand is probably one of the best speakers out there for the performance and price point. Especially when driven by a quality amp.