so in real world does this upgrade improve 0-60? 30-50? 50-80?
there appears to be more power on dyno runs, so I imagine the rolling starts and passing is better, but can anyone confirm?

 

If you thought p1 transformed the car, p2 just totally changes it, the power is absurdlly awesome, i still cant believe how fast it is

 

Nice! This is an app on your phone?

 

Yes - I bought Dragy online http://dragyperformance.com and downloaded their app. I also use the DragTimes app for calculating DA [emoji106]


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@moddeR Thanks for taking the time to layout the foray, plan, setup the tools, and execute these measurements. And for sharing the results here! Totally cool.

 

Final run of the evening on the same stretch: 0-60 in 4.73 and braking (again) through the 1/4 mile but time dropped to 13.34 with a 2.05 60 foot.


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60ft most important. That’s how Tesla gets high 10s and only traps at 106mph.

 

@moddeR thanks for posting all those Dragy results!

I was a bit disappointed at first, but when you start to compare those numbers with other cars' real-world averages... it's pretty awesome.

We can talk about variation and different track surfaces and whatever else all day, but I know the BMW M2 consistently runs 13.1 to 13.2 quarter mile times on standard asphalt and usually between 12.6 and 12.8 on a drag strip.

Whether or not you lifted before the end of the quarter mile, I'd consider even a 13.4 on the street to be a pretty solid time.
I'd really like to see if you could get it down a few tenths though.

 

Stock M2 vs Modded TI. Usually hard to compare a modded car to stock. I’m sure the modded M2 would fair pretty well. Still good times for a 2.0.

 

Just out of curiosity.. Have you done any stock runs for comparison?

 

Unfortunately, no. Maybe P1 in Natural v. P2 in Dynamic on the same stretch of road / same day? Might make for an interesting comparison...


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Maybe something like OBD Fusion /reader or similar would give an accurate time as it measures absolutes- fires from moment of acceleration and then measures time till speed hits 100kmh. Not sat based?

 

Good idea! I have this as well. Maybe run both at the same time (since one uses WiFi and the other BT) [emoji106]


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40 more hp and awd, should make better 60 feet time than less hp rwd car even if its different track, and he said there was no wheel spin

 

Heavier, more DT loss, and 40 more peak hp which is only being hit near the end of the 60ft. Probably a little room for improvement, but I don't see any big issue w/the 60ft. Take your 60ft time on the street and you'll see a big gap between his and yours.

 

Ordered the Remus axleback exhaust, received it and just got back from a test drive after installing it. It's boomy. Resonance is at 1,400-1,600 rpm. Guess where the trans is always trying to keep the rpms when driving at 30-40 mph which are my normal commute speeds. Yep; 1,400-1,600 rpms. Idle isn't bad at all, and anything above 1,600 isn't bad. Surprisingly, 1,800-2,000 rpm which is usually where you see resonance isn't boomy. I was hoping for a sharper tone with less bass resonance, but unfortunately that isn't the case. After listening to sound clips, I thought the Remus was the least obnoxious; I can't imagine what the others must sound like. I tried it in N and D mode; same.

I know most of you guys want loud and boomy, but I don't. I work in a very noisy environment, and when I get in my car, I thoroughly enjoy the serene calm; or at least I did. I got the Remus for the P2 upgrade, but now I have to seriously reconsider what I'm willing to live with. I know that exhausts will change their tone as they break in, so I'm hoping the resonance will lessen. If not, I'll probably switch back to stock. Either that or look into sound dampening material to install in the trunk.

 

Did you get the race version or is there a sport muffler?

I have the Ragazzon axle-back with sport muffler and it was a little boomier than I’d like, but not too obnoxious. I then bought the matching resonated mid-pipe and it’s much better. Aside from loud cold starts, the sound doesn’t over power the engine anymore. It was such an improvement in lowering the sound over the stock mid-pipe even if the stock pipe was also resonated. Pairing a 3” mod pipe with the 3” axle-back seems to have been the better figment. If Remus has the matching resonated mid-pipe, that might help out a bit.

 

@Eagle7, there is a fellow on the forum, goes by Alan, lives in PA. He has devised a fix for the frequency resonance at low RPMs, like you describe. I believe that the fix requires a separate pipe to be welded in parallel and it's length adjusted / tuned to eliminate the frequency resonance. He has written about this many months ago on one of the exhaust threads. Good luck, and please post your results.

 

I think this is the thread you mentioned. He built a sound canceling chamber to passively remove the drone. A rather good read in my opinion.

https://www.giuliaforums.com/forum/594-intake-exhaust/21298-centerline-corsa-exhaust-giulia-2-0-daily-driver.html

 

Sorry for the off topic conversation. I have the Remus axle back and I too noticed when new slight booming and some resonance between 1200 to 1500 rpm. After a few hundred miles the sound gota bit sharper and booming reduced. If you are driving in A mode the gearbox tends to stay in this band, but in N or D it mostly stays above 1500rpm and I don't hear the resonance except when the box is shifting down and rpm drops. I too had my doubts like you but it gets better with time and I like it now.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions. When doing a restore on a Lotus Europa a few years ago, I used a product called Damplifier CLD by Second Skin Audio to help dampen resonance from a header system I'd installed. It worked well. Thank you @sl_austin for that link; reminded me of what I'd done with the Lotus. Trunk wells are notorious for behaving like a bass drum or large gong. Something else I noticed is that the ends of the Remus exhaust sit farther back in the exhaust tips than the stock exhaust, so that may be part of it too. I think I'm going to remove the carpet in the trunk and see what it looks like underneath. A few pieces of Damplifier strategically placed might do the trick.

 

Did two more runs on the same stretch of road today and with a slightly better DA. 0-60 down to 4.35 seconds and my 60 foot was 1.95.

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Thats more like it! So its possible to get a better 60feet than a qv ?? >

 

Out of curiosity again - this thread went from many facing issues with the flash/tune (CELs) to launch times.

What happened to those with CELs? Are those all resolved? Was this a new update from EC?

 

I just gladged p2. Had cell after first round of refs. It asked me to do it again and it was cleared. I haven’t driven it yet. But will shortly.

Also after the first two revs I couldn’t get ton7,500. However after, I was able to floor it and get to 6500. I kept reviving there.

Lastly, someone indicated on pg 44 that Toby sent him some pre install instructions and that was helpful in preventing the CEL. I believe that person was having issues with CEL eceryrym after installing P2 w/o the info from

YMMV

 

I've put about 600 miles on my dual map P2, (no pops and bangs). Not one CEL. All is good.. very good!

 

Getting better on the same stretch of road (also colder out/better DA than on previous runs) - essentially 13 flat at 104 on a slight incline. Usual 60 foot:

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. Where are you placing your dragy? Those altitudes and g's and everything else are all over the place. Wonder if you are getting bad or unreliable signals?

 

Mine wedges nicely to the right of the shifter trim. Between that and the edge of the center console. Windshield doesn't sound optimal.

Good to know! Will try it out [emoji106]


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Good to know! Will try it out [emoji106]


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Hmm, I dunno...what keeps it in place, from sliding and bouncing all over the place?

 

Just checked, over p1 i picked up 0.6g on acceleration even with some wheel spin on my open lsd rwd, id say on track should be getting even harder acceleration with much lower 60feet than my 1st run on drag strip with p1 which was 2.05sec

 

 

OK, 200 miles Post Tune...

.. and all is well!!

Much like P1, performance took 200 miles to unlock.

But first, a little background on my struggle to get it installed. Went through many attempts to get either of the P2 maps installed... no luck just doing it like the P1 install. No matter what I tried, the Rev process never cleared the CEL. I know how to Rev, with 100% immediate success during the first round and CEL disappearing on the 3rd Rev with Stock and P1 maps.

With P2, did 40-50 revs across multiple installs and DEL events with two shots at standard P1+P2 and the P&B version each. So 160-200 revs were driving me crazy (and it's a short drive, anyway) when Toby sent me what looked like Voodo instructions for one last try.

So following his method, involving battery disconnect, seat belts, clearing the maps off, etc. (contact Toby, I'm not gonna recap his instructions, since I not the tuner) I made a run at P2 with P&B first. Probably missed a step, since I had another fail, and another bunch of Revs (laughing nervously...) resulting in CELagain!!

So last Sunday, made a run at it with the P1+P2 no Pops and Bangs, and it worked only taking 4 revs during the first cycle. Felt exactly like doing a Stock or P1, except the new raised rev limiter took another rev (two limited at 6,200 and then two to the new nearly 6,500 limit. Zap went the CEL, and P2 was online.

Driving P2

First, the P1 N map came on strong early, at about 30-40 miles, and got stronger for the next 75 mile. Now feels slightly more burly than the earlier P1 N map, but probably just my imagination. Would expect a low 5 second 0-60 from this, and I'll find out soon.

Now the fun part, D mode P2. Pretty much out of the gate at mile 20+, it seemed pretty close to the fully aclimated P1 D mode, except at the top of the RPM range seemed a bit meek, without the growling shift from 1-2 and 2-3.

During the past 200 miles, D mode just got stronger and stronger. Did two timed 0-60 runs at about mile 80 (4.82 and creeping on launch, a 5.02). No doubt these number can be beat. In the last 120 miles, P2 D mode has come on like a monster..... almost scary. Unfortunately our weather has been cold and icy, and I've had to drive with restraint for traction reasons. On a short stretch of dry canyon curve to curve, my benchmark speeds were being exceeded by 15, almost 20 mph at WOT between turns. Yikes! Snapping on the throttle mid turn breaks the back end loose, until Q4 magic pulls Giulia back onto the line. Roll it on, no stomping.

I have the Euro+Drive Pedal thingy, which I've pretty much disabled in D mode (turned it down from 4 to 2, but mostly have been running in 0 defeated setting).

Now at 200 miles, first three shifts in P2 D mode, at 5,600-5,800 rpm bark a raspy snort. Power is strong from 3,000 to 5,500, with distinct torqueless 500 rpm between 5,500 and 6,000. Seems like the rev limiter in 1st and 2nd gear get's hit with indicated RPM lagging probably 500 rpm, which is not a suprise cuz it revs up so fast.

Not sure I'm seeing any real changes in traction control on my Q4 when cornering. On the icy roads, I can't swap ends or do donuts, feeling TC and front wheel drive kick in. Maybe the open diff test car at EC can burn rubber, my Q4 doesn't deliver the 390HP to "light em up" like it should with the car weight and power if I'm steering a turn. I never see the TC light come on the dash like before, though. Strangely powering straight only, can I redline with wheelspin. It feels like "hooning" that I did on a 600WHP WRX, where all four corners are spinning, because the car stays arrow-straight. But this is on slightly icy/moist roads. 0-60 launches on the dry feel like TC is intervening, using "Soft" dampner settings, I feel little or no wheelspin.

I can tell D mode is loading more fuel because my mpg 10-15% less during this initial 200 miles. Seems like N mode is running like before with brief testing showing about 24mpg in mixed driving. Need more data to make conclusive observations.

What a wild ride thus far.

I'll put another tank on this P1+P2, non P&B, before I try to load the Pops and Bangs map. Perhaps EC will have a cleaner process, or new Dimsport code will clear up the lumpiness with clear CEL on my car.

Most importantly, NO CELS, NO Codes, absolutely clean running during this first tank.


Happy and getting happier. Ciao Alfisi,

 

Oh yeah... forgot to say...

Bravo Eurocompulsion. Thanks Toby and Chris.

Issues yes -- supported with ideas and prompt and courteous customer support. It's easy when everything works without incident to do good service... P2 hasn't been as smooth as previous releases, but EC has been 100% behind making things work.

Thanks!! Keep up the good work EC.

 

@mtb.ck it's good to hear you've gotten it sorted out. Do you have the dual mode map where N is now like P1 D mode?

 

yes.




I'm not sure that's dual mode (I'm going back and re-reading the posts from Toby).

I think I got my favorite N mode from P1, which is as perfect as daily could be. And P2 D DNA, which I only run for concerted canyon drives and prompt passing purposes. Even when I get behind other traffic during my spirited romps, I change DNA back to N (uphill behind the velocity challenged) and A mode (downhill behind those same folks).

For some strange reason, just seeing the Giulia, some folks here in CO have to go slow to teach me what the speed limit (minus 5 or 10) feels like. Gofigure what the car in TriComp Rosso would garner - probably coming to a complete stop followed by gawking. :wink2:

 

100mi on my p2-p1 (non pops n bangs) only one issue, car keeps getting faster >

 

Only switched to phase 2 p1N mode once when i wanted to see how it goes, p2 D mode all the time for me, poor car.. >

 

Not that the following has much to do with EC or their tune.

I did a brake job today, and the manual said to disconnect the battery first, so I did. I reconnected the battery after the job was completed. The car cycled through all the possible warnings, just like it does during the new tune upgrade. After it finally stopped cycling, the CEL was still on. I turned off the motor and restarted the engine. Again it cycled through all the possible warnings, when it got to the end the CEL was gone. I turned off the engine one more time and restarted it. No warnings of any type.

Went for a short drive. Yes, I can tell the difference between pads that look like campfire ash and fresh pads. I can also tell the difference between P1 mode and P2 mode. A huge difference.

 

So, I bought a used euro drive off of here and there was no USB drive. Is that an absolute or can euro send me the software over the net?

 

You need to install the software first. That includes the driver. You’ll find everything on ec’s website. Also, you’ll need to contact them to buy the unlock credit for transferring the device