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EURO+DRIVE - PHASE 2 - Giulia 2.0L (Official Thread)

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#1 · (Edited)
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We are pleased to finally announce that Phase 2 is officially ready for the Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0L EURO+DRIVE tuning system.

This is a simple map upgrade via your EURO+DRIVE handheld. Giulia users will fill out the tune request form found on the online portal and submit this form to their folders to receive Phase 2 mapping (please allow 48 hours of processing on our end).

Additional features released with this Phase 2 upgrade include:

- Dynamic Traction Control (In Dynamic Mode)
- Raised Rev Limiter/Speed Limiter
- Pops & Bangs
- Dual Map Mode
- Catless Downpipe / High Flow Cat Optimization (Coming Soon/In Development)


These features can also be utilized on Phase 1 (for those that do not plan to upgrade to P2 at this time).

Notes on some of these additional features:

- DYNAMIC TRACTION CONTROL -
This feature is largely controlled by torque demand, and the settings in Dynamic Mode. What this means? The factory safety settings for loose road conditions detection, etc, will remain intact. When in Dynamic mode and driving in a spirited part-throttle or wide-open-throttle manner, the TCS system will not interfere or interrupt throttle position, torque request, or other associated requested performance commands. This allows for increased acceleration from a stop or rolling speed (massive difference as opposed to not enabling dynamic traction), burn outs, brake boosting, fish tailing, left foot braking, etc. This is compatible with both diff setups, RWD, and AWD equipped vehicles.

Personal note: I would encourage those who may think that they cannot handle this setting to think again. It does not affect the normal driving or conditions you engage in 90% of the time, and you will be missing out on P2 performance and enjoyment in Dynamic mode without it. This is a pure, sport traction setting, and in my opinion, one the car should have come with from the beginning.

- POPS & BANGS -
This is an additional charge, and can be purchased on the website. Please watch our video below before purchasing or using this feature:



- DUAL MAP MODE -
Via programming, the DNA switch can be changed to run a selected map in a specified mode. Our Phase 1 map will be placed in Natural, while Phase 2 remains in Dynamic. A mode will be the same as it is with the current Phase 1. At this time, the dual map option is only available with the Phase 2 map, and only in this configuration. When testing, Phase 2 did not run quite as aggressively in Natural mode as it did in Dynamic. It did not feel as if the map switching convenience offered by the DNA system was being utilized to it's potential. As we release more mapping options later on, this will change.

This option effectively removes the existing Natural mode. If you do not select this option, N and A modes will remain the same as they currently are configured on our Phase 1 map.

-------

DYNO TESTING INFORMATION: CLICK HERE

TECHNICAL INFORMATION: CLICK HERE

PRODUCT INFORMATION: CLICK HERE

TUNE REQUIREMENTS: CLICK HERE

PURCHASE THE POPS & BANGS ADD ON: CLICK HERE

For supplemental information (and questions we may have already answered):

https://www.giuliaforums.com/forum/802-vendor-deals/40996-euro-drive-phase-2-development-thread.html

https://www.giuliaforums.com/forum/...endor-deals/29865-euro-drive-alfa-romeo-giulia-2-0l-tuning-official-thread.html



Please allow 24-48 business hours for tune file processing. We will have the tune request form and the pops and bangs add on available this evening.
 

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#224 ·
Before I email Chris-Toby, does anyone here know if they have described (in detail) what the difference is between the new P2 N mode and the old P1 D mode?
 
#227 ·
From the first page of the thread:

- DUAL MAP MODE -
Via programming, the DNA switch can be changed to run a selected map in a specified mode. Our Phase 1 map will be placed in Natural, while Phase 2 remains in Dynamic. A mode will be the same as it is with the current Phase 1. At this time, the dual map option is only available with the Phase 2 map, and only in this configuration. When testing, Phase 2 did not run quite as aggressively in Natural mode as it did in Dynamic. It did not feel as if the map switching convenience offered by the DNA system was being utilized to it's potential. As we release more mapping options later on, this will change.

This option effectively removes the existing Natural mode. If you do not select this option, N and A modes will remain the same as they currently are configured on our Phase 1 map.
 
#229 ·
Well... I can confirm that the flashing back to stock then to P2 doesn’t work... as I never had P1. First install was today for P2 with pops and bangs, dual map. After driving around for just about five minutes, car went into limo home mode. Service engine came up, throttle position failure, air start stop unavailable. Can hardly get up to 3mph...

Not sure what to do. Restarted car a few times. Still in limp home mode. I am starting to think it might be an issue with maybe the Dual Map tunes?

Need help please!
 
#230 ·
Well... I can confirm that the flashing back to stock then to P2 doesn’t work... as I never had P1. First install was today for P2 with pops and bangs, dual map. After driving around for just about five minutes, car went into limo home mode. Service engine came up, throttle position failure, air start stop unavailable. Can hardly get up to 3mph...

Not sure what to do. Restarted car a few times. Still in limp home mode. I am starting to think it might be an issue with maybe the Dual Map tunes?

Need help please!
Sorry to hear that! What mods do you have in your car?
 
#239 ·
I have put a couple of hundred miles on my dual map pops and bangs tune without any issue. I have only had it in D mode and i do pops and bangs every chance I get. I had cels sometimes with phase 1 when i would go to stock and back to the tune for dealer trips. The revs were what always got me. I haven't had that issue anymore since getting used to the procedure in the video.
 
#240 ·
P2 Dual Mode installed no problem. Easy peazy. Drove around for about 30 minutes trying all three modes, really liking this. Stopped for gas at my usual station thinking I'd drive around more. After fueling, I've got a CEL and Auto Stop unavailable. I restarted the engine with no change. Checked the fuel cap and hood with no change. Drove home and parked.

The trip home was good. The car (engine) works as if there's no CEL.

The install was my quickest yet. It only had to rev the engine for one set of three and I was done. Before doing the P2 flash, I drove around until the entire engine and drive-line was fully warmed. When asked to rev out the engine, I let her bounce off the rev limiter a bit longer than I liked.

A Mode has more oomph than it used to. Not so much that it's a problem and not enough that I want to use A Mode again.

N Mode is definitely P1.

D Mode is unreal :grin2: I am lost for words, it's that farting unreal.

The bulk of my thirty minute drive was in city traffic in auto-shift, trying the three modes. Cruising at a steady 40 mph and switching modes, A Mode rises a gear from N, while D Mode drops a gear from N.

N Mode is probably where I'll spend most of my time driving, it's smooth with adequate performance. D Mode has tons of oomph right off the line, not much throttle and your moving fast. With more seat time, I'm sure I'll get used to the quick throttle response, there is no need for a Pedal Pro with P2.

I strategically picked a known road where I could drag race my own shadow. Manual shift mode, Dynamic P2 mode. Floored her from a dead stop. She took off like a rocket. I've never experienced that with P1. P1 is quick, but not like this. She felt like the rear tires were slipping at the top of first and second. I did not hear any tire squeal (windows closed as it was cold) nor did the car squirm around. The OEM tune and P1 will cut power at traction loss, this time there was no traction loss and no flashing lights.

D Mode, I could hear the intake breathing even at low RPM. N Mode, similar conditions and I could not hear the intake breath as much. Yes, I'm hearing the intake cause I have the V2 intake now, but, the turbo is working more at lower RPMs as compared to the lesser modes. I can hear the wastegate on deceleration too. N Mode (P1) doesn't really do this (as much). For the most part, it's not that loud and it's controllable. My wife, for example, who drives different than I do, would probably never drive hard enough to excite the intake noises.

I'm really digging this new P2 tune and I really like the Dual Mode setup. Basically: Race Mode, Sport Mode and Granny Mode.
Currently, I have the V2 intake, stock exhaust and P2 Dual Mode, and a CEL. Hopefully Toby can work out the issue with our CEL's.
 
#257 ·
Thank you for the info @RacerZ

What's strange about this, is that Bob's car is running the same software version as our car, and therefore the same tune it currently has on it. And I can't replicate this on our car.

I have reason to believe that this has something to do with the handheld. A few weeks ago, some massive updates were made to my tuning software. Since then, I have had some random issues occur across the board (people who have already flashed their car having trouble with new files, some new customers unable to read the car directly, some having issues flashing for the first time, etc). I believe there is some issue with the exporting of our tune files, and how they are being sent to the ECU once they're on the handheld. I'm not entirely sure what the issue is, but I think the problem lies somewhere in this transaction between the file and handheld.

This would explain why so many have had initial trouble with getting P2 on the car to begin with, and did not have this issue with P1 (even though everything we're doing on our end is the same).

Another note, when we flash our car for testing, I use my master handheld, which takes the MyGenius file format out of the equation, and goes on directly to the car from my tuning software. We still perform the same flash procedure you do, but the file format is different, and the hardware is different. All of the tune revisions I have flashed over the last few months (and there are A LOT of them) using this tool has not produced any of the symptoms some of you have. In fact, it hasn't had any symptoms or problems at all. I think the difference is the tool.

Tomorrow, I am going to use a MyGenius on our test car and do the entire process (read the file, make a tune file, load it to the MyGenius device, and flash to the car). Hopefully we will be able to replicate some of what is happening to a few of you this way, and figure out what the issue is.
 
#260 ·
If you have the V2 intake take hoses off and see if this little piece (see pic below) is not snug to the end of the hose. This happened to me a year or so ago. I kept getting CELs. Me and dealer couldn’t figure it out took off v2 went with stock, nO cels. Went back to V2 Cels again. Released hose kept blowing off. So I clamped them. No CEL. then day later I got a CEL. I checked hoses all were in tact and fine. Took off again and looked at all the hoses. That’s when I saw this piece (see pic) slightly loose from hose (so not snug)! I pushed it in started car CEL went away. Took hose off again and that piece was loose again. Told EC sent me a new hose. I clamped that piece and haven had an issue sense. So I’d check that out.

Is anyone getting a CEL and limp mode who does not have the V2? Don’t bear me up, just trying to help others troubleshoot.
 

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#283 ·
**** sorry Dorifito, though I'm sure Toby will get you sorted out quickly. Also, do you know wate version model file you have? I wonder if there are others with same file experiencing this or will. I'll be loading my tune this weekend.
 
#282 ·
It seems to have been previously indicated that the pops and bangs would only occur in Neutral or manual mode, but I can trigger this in A, N, and D while in automatic, pretty much any gear as long as rpms are above 2k. Tapping the pedal triggers just as much and as loud of the pops and bangs while in D with manual mode.

I was able to get pops and bangs while driving in N yesterday. Didn’t seem as pronounced as in D but I can’t be 100% sure. Didn’t try A...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#286 ·
I'll try to cover everything, as there are a few statements made in the thread that need to be addressed or corrected, and I've been driving our Giulia since early this morning until just a few minutes ago. Please read all of this information in its entirety, as their are some important things here.

First I'll address some statements:

- No, the chime in the video was from revving the car in neutral and having the door open, or the seatbelt disconnected, or both. I've said it before and I'll say it again (and I'm not attempting to hide this fact either), I have not experienced any of these issues with the tune on our test car, under any condition or circumstance.

- Pops and bangs will happen anytime you are using the pedal tap. They can happen in N and A mode, but are more subdued, and only occur if you're using the pedal tap. If no pedal tap, you get a little sound and then it goes away. I could not get our car in automatic mode to pop and bang, but I suppose if you go up to a high enough rpm in the right gear and let off before redline, it will allow some decel, and you will get some sound. But the previous statement still applies, you really have to use the pedal tap to get anything substantial.

- Whatever issues that are occurring are not related to the dual map or pops and bangs, it's not really related to anything having to do with the map. I know this because there are many on the same software versions as those with issues, who are running the same mix of different maps who do not have an issue. There are some with issues who are running the same mix of maps. It's not related to a specific feature or map choice.

- A code reader cannot clear codes while the engine is on.

Now on to my tests this morning:

- Early this morning I took out our Giulia as it sits now (Ph 2-Ph 1 Pops and bangs). Some of you are running this exact same tune. I put quite a bit of mileage on the car during this stint, and I hammered on the car pretty hard throughout this time (probably almost two hours of straight driving). I tried to replicate anything that some of you have experienced (low gear, high revs, inducing pops and bangs at various spots in the rpm range, various gears, WOT in all DNA modes, manual driving, automatic driving, cruising, part throttle, low rpm high gear lugging, low gear high rpm lugging, etc, etc). I seriously beat up the car trying to make it flinch, and I could not. It drove flawlessly.

- So, based on some information I have retrieved from some users who have emailed me, I came to the conclusion yesterday that their may be an issue with the handheld itself. I noticed that I had two customers, both had the same exact model Giulia, same software version, same mods, and were both running the exact same tune file (Ph 2-Ph 1 dual map). Because they have the same software version, they both would have received the exact same file (literally the same file from my tuning software). One was able to flash straight from their previous P1 tune to their new P2 map. They experienced no issue with flashing, and the car drives exactly as it should with no problems, with a few hundred miles of driving. Turns out their MyGenius had not been updated to a newer OS. The second customer was having all kinds of strange issues, many of which have already been posted here. They had trouble with flashing the car, and experienced issues trying to use the DEL errors procedure, etc. Their handheld is on a newer OS. This theory was consistent with other users having issues on a newer OS, and some not having issues on older OS versions.

I decided to do an experiment. I treated our car and myself as if I were a customer with a MyGenius, doing all of the exact same procedures you would do to tune your car, and doing exactly what I would do on my end to get your tune file made and ready for your handheld. I've done this before with P1, but it was only to make instructions and test everything, not to troubleshoot a potential issue. Everything I did throughout this procedure is exactly what you would have to do. I was confident this was an issue with the handheld OS, and was sure I would see the same issues (or at least one of them), that you all may be having. Here's how it went:

- Flashed our car back to stock (the original stock file that was on our test car) using my master tool.
- Drove and made sure the car was stock, and functioning properly. It was on both accounts.
- Set up a MyGenius unit (that's your handheld) for us to use, and updated it to have the latest OS and build (6.030 build 2)
- We ID'd the ECU, and generated a file to send to the tuning portal.
- Uploaded file to the tuning portal.

Now what I would normally do for you guys:
- Download the .fpf file, and unpack the file.
- View software version and vehicle info.
- Go to tuning software, match corresponding software version to the downloaded file. Choose appropriate tune file that I have made (in this case Ph 2-Ph 1 Pops and bangs). This is an actual file some of you are running on your cars. I also did the stock file just in case I ran into an issue, which I fully expected to at this point.
- Pack the tune file so it is in MyGenius format, and upload to the portal for the customer (me)

Now as the customer:
- Download the file from the portal to my computer
- Plug handheld into computer, open client software
- Upload the tune file (and stock file as well) to the handheld
- Take the handheld out to the car to flash

Flashing the car:
- Plug handheld into car, select work, then write.
- Scroll right to select "Ph 2-Ph 1 P&B). Hit OK.
- Go through various Dash On/Off prompts, then handheld begins to program file to the ECU.
- After finishing, follow dash off prompts, and proceed.

Now here is where it gets tricky, and where I think some of the problems are being created (something about the car does not like this if you do it any other way):

- After a series of Dash/On off prompts, the handheld tells me to start the engine, and press ok.
- Start engine, press ok.
- Warm up progress bar proceeds to fill
- Once done, handheld prompts me to "Rev to 6500 RPM, going back to idle, 3 times". There is a loading bar at the bottom that is essentially timing this procedure.

- A few things here: When the car is first started, it will only allow revs to 6000rpm for a certain amount of time (this is for engine warmup, coolant warmup, catalyst warming, etc, etc, not just any one thing). After this period is over, it can rev higher now that we have changed the RPM redline.
- The way that we all perform this procedure here at the shop: rev slowly to 6000rpm, and let it touch the rev limiter for a second or two once it is reached. Also, starting the rev from an idle rpm, the pedal should be fully depressed to the floor by the time you reach redline, it should push off the rev limiter. Then let off, and allows the rpms to go back idle, and remain there for 5-10 seconds. Perhaps I did not explain this thoroughly enough in the beginning.

So back to the next step:

- We begin revving to 6000rpm just as I described above.
- We did this 3 times. However, the flashing CEL was still present.
- I looked down at our time loading bar, and saw that we still had more than half of the allotted time left.
- I decided to rev a 4th time, and on this attempt, the flashing CEL went away. This was still revving to 6000rpm.
- Dash off prompt showed, and I shut the car off and continued with the procedure until I received the writing ECU completed message.
- The handheld processed its log file, and arrived back at the main menu.
- I then disconnected from the car.


At this point, I took the car out and drove for a few hours, trying to replicate and simulate everything I had earlier that day on the tune file that was flashed with my master tool. At one point, I even stopped to refuel (I wanted to try and replicate the issue RacerZ had at the gas station).

Unfortunately I was unable to get the car to do anything differently than how it had performed earlier that morning. The car ran flawlessly, and without issue.

After analyzing the log files from the flash, and comparing this information to what I have seen from some users, I came to what I think is a pretty solid conclusion. Because of the raised redline in P2, and the changes in some of the OS updates for the handheld, the rev procedure is much more sensitive than it was before. Something is happening on the first round of the rev procedure where:

(1) if you do not complete the procedure on the first round and the ignition has to be turned off, then back on again, the ECU is storing information as pending codes or errors (almost like a pending recovery). Once this is done, I believe it will take multiple tries for the handheld to process all errors stored or pending before it can erase them completely. If they are not erased completely, some of this information will be waiting when you first start to drive.

(2) if the revs are not performed as described (or as the ECU and handheld expect to see them) something is amiss with the throttle learn. It needs to effectively match up the given rpm with throttle position and other information. Same as above, if the rev procedure or DEL errors has to be performed multiple times, the throttle adaptation is somehow off slightly (especially with the rpm limit changing after you've turned off and on the car). This is why after going through this and having to perform the DEL errors procedure multiple times the tune doesn't quite feel right in a specific mode.

I was really hoping this was just an issue with the handheld, but it would appear it is much more complex than that. Simply put, it really comes down to the rev procedure, at least that's what I'm seeing.

What I would recommend:

- Some of you may need to reflash your map, or try reflashing one of your non pops and bangs map (just a different map than what's already on the car).
- Perform the rev procedure as described, but use all of the allotted time in the progress bar. This means, if you have revved 3 times and you still have the CEL, continue to rev effectively until there is no more time remaining. Tested on my master tool, you should be able to get 6-7 revs at least within the allotted time. I will have to edit the installation instructions to reflect this as an option, but on the MyGenius and on my master tool, you can rev as many times as able to within the time. This has completed the procedure within the first round everytime. Once completed in the first round, there were no following issues.
- I believe, based on the logs and what we did this morning, that you will be able to complete the flash procedure and eliminate the CEL within the first round of revving (if done correctly), and be able to proceed without issue.

- I also want to point this out ahead of time: Yes, I am telling you to do differently than what the screen on the handheld says at this point. I will edit the instructions to reflect this. I will also let Dimsport know, but only they can make the change to the procedure. For now, this is what I recommend when you arrive at this point of the flash process.

On another note, Dorifto's issue is different than what everyone else is experiencing. There is a bug within this file exchange (he is on an older software version), and I will have to sort this one out through the software on my end. This issue is not related to the other issues occurring.

Hopefully all of this makes sense, I know it's quite a read.
 
#287 ·
Thanks. I held off and waited to install my P2 before I had more info.

Pretty confident now that all will be fine. I've finished the rev-process multiple times and every time on the first try when installing P1 .
@toby@eurocompulsion

In the past, I've driven the car between writing and the rev-process in order to speed up the engine warmup process. Would you advise against this?
 
#291 ·
Normally I would recommend against this, only because it opens the door I guess for "potential" issues, key word being potential. I've never actually tried it this way, so it's good to know you have had success with it. I don't recall anyone ever mentioning anything before about an issue doing it this way though.
 
#288 ·
Does anyone (else) here find all of this required revving to 6000RPMs unsettling? In my years of automotive experience, this type of revving your engine (in neutral) has always been discouraged for fear of damaging the engine. @toby@eurocompulsion ??
 
#293 ·
@stocki, imo, the addition of multiair just adds to the unsettling-ness.

Yes, you are correct, the Dealership did this when they reflashed the ecu update. FYI, they had to only rev once to redline. Even so, that alone doesn't alleviate my concern.
 
#295 ·
Another option that another user who has had no issues mentioned to me that has worked effectively, is to make sure you're in Natural mode when doing the rev process. This helps control the RPM and redline more at first startup.

Unfortunately I do not remember if I was in N or D today when I flashed the car, but the logic behind this is sound.
 
#297 ·
@toby@eurocompulsion, I am aware of this, but still unsettled. Like a medical doctor, I try to do no harm. Or at least as little harm as needed. Most likely the engine in your test mule has seen more of this revving than any other Giulia. I'm hopeful that you would be forthcoming and truthful if you encounter any engine problems.
 
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