Nope thats how i have my 5A quick connects installed

 

Thanks! Definitely puts any concerns that I had to rest.

 

Could you please share a picture? Thanks.

 

I would assume that the Comfort Connect extension should be connected to the nut next to the negative terminal, in the same way as the regular charger negative cable should be connected. Why should it be different?. I do not think that you are going to notice any issues but, the IBS sensor, which is able to measure the charge and discharge voltage and calculate the charge level and the general condition of the battery, is being by-passed. Based on the owner's manual, the charge voltage must go through the IBS sensor.

 

Yea I read that in the manual which is what brought up my concern. I might have to take it to the dealer again to change the negative connection location. I would do it myselft but the nut next to the negative terminal won't budge so I don't want to force it and end up breaking the IBS module. Thanks!

 

yes, the charge current should go through the IBS sensor, not directly to battery negative terminal, otherwise the charge status as reported by the IBS will not be correct, causing an incorrect charge strategy for the alternator during normal use.

 

Yea I might have to take the car back to the dealer to have them put the negative connection on the correct nut. I tried to undo the nut next to the negative terminal but it won't budge.

 

An "easy" foolproof way is to just connect the negative charge lead to a chassis point......
example ( I drilled a hole, but you could also use the square hole with a nut/bolt and washer) :

2nd picture is using the nut on the negative clamp as in the earlier pic, next to vertical post (so NOT 2a / 3a in pic)

 

An "easy" way is to just connect the negative charge lead to chassis......
example ( I drilled a hole, but you could also use the square hole with a nut/bolt and washer) :
2nd picture is using the nut on the negative clamp as in the earlier pic

Thanks! I think connecting it to the chassis is definitely the easier way to go. So connecting it to the chassis will also make the current go through the IBS sensor? I already tried to unscrew that nut in the 2nd pic and it will not move. I'm afraid if I force it I might break the sensor. Will I need to disconnect the entire negative terminal? Or can I just undo the nut that the connection is connected to right now (3A in the 2nd pic), take the comfort connect negative connection out, then just screw the nut back in?

 

Interesting. Not sure which was is better.

 

I suspect going via IBS is better for your battery, as it prevents overcharging, even if for a short while.
Best would be updated software that maintains a higher battery charge level

We're not the only ones though, I see a lot of problems with IBS on other fora from BMW, Mercedes etc.etc.

 

Right on. Wonder how audi does it. Ive had 12 audis now with 5 of them 2013 to 2018 model year and their electrical sytem has been flawless. Only electrical problems were coilpacks on older cars but they were 20 bucks and id keep one in my trunk lol

 

I have the CTEK MXS10 and the comfort connect with indicator/green,yellow,red lights/.The dealer made the connections exactly as stated in the manual. The charger works great.On the original EFB battery- around 5-6 hours for complete charging. I changed the battery with AGM, because of superstition and now the whole charging process is even shorter - around 3-4 hours. The strange thing is how the indicator is working.It is only green, after charging and on the next 1,2 days.After this, it is always yellow or red. This was with EFB and now with the AGM is the same. Both batteries are new and in excellent condition. So, the indicator I think is not very accurate on the real condition of the battery ,anyway.

 

Basically it's a relatively simple voltmeter, so don't expect too much

The led's are apparently activated at the following voltages:
Green: above 12,65V
Yellow: 12,4 – 12,65V
Red: below 12,4V

As the IBS will never fully charge the battery, it's normal the indicator will stabelise after couple of days at yellow/red

normal:

State of Charge	Sealed or Flooded Lead Acid battery voltage	AGM battery voltage
100%	12.70+	12.80+
75%	12.40	12.60
50%	12.20	12.30
25%	12.00	12.00

 

I've got the negative ring terminal on my trickle charger sitting on the long post that the car's harness connects to. It did require disconnecting the harness to get the charger terminal on under it, but that has a convenient quick disconnect. I was planning to put some kind of rubber grommet on top of the ring terminal to keep it in place, but even without one, the diameters are close enough that there isn't too much play, so I've never had any issue with contact being broken. I ended up doing this for the same reason someone mentioned, I couldn't undo the nut indicated in the manual.

As far as I could tell, that post connects through the IBS, since it shares the same metal mounting plate as the recommended nut.

 

It was a long time since I installed, so I'm not sure. It was the standard eyelet that came with the charger though.....
You could always measure the boltsize on the battery

 

thanks, I do like the stoplight on the extra set.