Alfa Romeo Giulia Forum banner
21 - 40 of 86 Posts
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Any idea what the difference is that might explain why the premium costs $48 and the value line costs only $12?

I just bought a value line filter. It is a Mann filter. I've used Mann filters for years on VWs and Audis and I consider it a reputable brand.
Googling the two and comparing the listing from moparonlineparts dot com, the only differences are "Same as original cabin air filter" on the 68382124AA (called "Premium" but MacGeek) and "Alternative cabin air filter" on the 68320112AA (called "Value Line' by MacGeek)...plus $47.67 (MSRP $68.50) vs $11.36 (MSRP $16.35). The descriptions are identical, and these are listed for a 2018/2019 Stelvio.
 
I just finished changing my cabin air filter. There is garden variety, every day bad design, and then there is hall of shame, epic bad design. This is hall of shame, epic bad design.

Anyway, the original filter was also a Mann, but it was carbon treated, whereas the value line Mann was not. So it appears that may be what the extra $36 gets you.
 
I carry all of them but have a good stock of the the premium shown below.

Also I may have said this was a simple job, it's not. I apologize for stating that. This is a fairly difficult job to be honest and honestly agree a stupid design. I changed mine many months ago when I bought it and just upgraded to the filter below, what a nightmare. You need to be on your back bent into the car to see and reach this filter. The filter door tab is very delicate... of course! So be careful. It can break super easy but luckily they have a tab with the ability to throw a screw in there to hold the door in. You really need to remove the ducting for the floor but I also do not recommend that. It's made of limpy foam and is difficult to replace. Just move it out of the way. You also need to scrunch the filter slightly to get it in, then slowly work it into the slot. Sounds easy but it's not when you're on your back.

So I'd say have the dealer do it unless you want to take on this mess. I put the premium Mann FP 32 008 in. My original filter was perfectly clean and yes it has carbon in it but is not the same thing as the FP series filter.

Image

Image


https://alfissimo.com/home/1526-mann-fp32008-carbon-cabin-filter-giulia-stelvio.html
 
I'm having the 20K service done on my car today and the dealer is apparently using the value part. Under $20 part cost. I would have expected them to opt for the more expensive one.
 
GuyfromChi - 70 bucks installed [insert thumbs up here]

I tried to follow that video and it’s near impossible to get the new filter in there. At the dealer as I type this and turns out the dealer manual instructs the tech to take the whole dash apart along with the glove box out...that video is deceiving because it may be a euro version of the car.... I could be mistaking though.
So what did the dealer end up charging for the cabin filter replacement sla252?
 
I'm having the 20K service done on my car today and the dealer is apparently using the value part. Under $20 part cost. I would have expected them to opt for the more expensive one.
For the amount of trouble to replace this, I would have paid for the premium carbon or the one shown in my last post. I just installed one in mine. Nightmare.
 
I was long, long, overdue for a replacement filter and finally got around to doing it yesterday. After reading all these posts I was a little nervous going into the job but figured the timing was good since I was going to the dealer today anyways and if something went wrong I could have them fix it up. Granted I haven't replaced air filters in any cars prior, but I didn't find the job to be terrible. Took about 10 mins to get the old filter out. About 20 mins fiddling to get the new one in and buttoning up all the trim pieces.

I followed the video for the most part and it covered about everything. Only thing I did different was remove the one press fit fastener holding the foam ducting in place. By moving that to the side, you can angle the filter and with some awkward playing around, and find a way to fit it in without really crushing any of it. +1 though for definitely being nimble to do this; you'll have to be comfortable on your back with half your body out the car working with little space to move your arms. Despite this though I would say it is not a technically challenging job just awkward.
 

Attachments

This is a pain. My tips are:
  • Need T20 torx male socket.
  • I had 5 screws under dash not 2 as some write-ups say.
  • I took outer kick-plate off near passenger door to allow under-dash piece to come down (it is attached to two footwell LEDs which I left connected and just laid the whole thing against footwell. this means the plastic door sill has to come up (3 pop rivets) to get to the T20 torx head screw closest to door opening.
  • Plastic pieces are generally flexible.
  • I disconnected plastic rivet holding end of foam register but did not pull it all down. It is mashable (as it is foam) and can be temporarily deformed.
  • Old filter can be yanked out after opening filter door (across and then down).
  • New filter going in (good luck).... Note direction of airflow (should be front to back of car). I raised it in the footwell parallel with firewall, in front of deformable register which again needs to be squished towards you. I then attempted to slide it sideways into the slot. The accordian ridges get caught on anything and everything. Although looking at it is helpful there's not enough room for your head and arms at all times. Once I got it started I backed my head away and used my left hand/arm with fingers at doorway and pushed each few ridges of the airfilter in running my fingers up and down to clear obstructions. This took 5 minutes or so. It is hard to line up the top edge and the whole thing gets a little twisted diagonally at first. It's definitely not an ideal design but the flexibility of the filter is built-in. The whole thing feels like it will get torn up.
  • Lastly be careful with the small plastic latch at bottom of filter door. I snapped mine off and it needs gorilla glue now. That's all holding the whole thing air tight (yikes). Might just pull the filter out and call it a day next time. Older cars never had this and I think the maintenance requirement is more than it's worth.....Good luck.
 
How did we cope when cars had no pollen filters fitted? I’ll be removing the filter and ‘binning’ it as i’ve Done on all cars i’ve Had with them fitted. Each time there's a notable improvement in fan efficiency and the vehicle is less prone to fogging up. If you have allergies or like spending your hard earned on pollen filters that’s fine.
 
How did we cope when cars had no pollen filters fitted? I’ll be removing the filter and ‘binning’ it as i’ve Done on all cars i’ve Had with them fitted. Each time there's a notable improvement in fan efficiency and the vehicle is less prone to fogging up. If you have allergies or like spending your hard earned on pollen filters that’s fine.
The filter is fitted on the intake side so its going to trap a lot of dirt. naturally if you change a dirty filter, you will see an improvement in fan efficiency . What you have done by removing the filter is to now allow all the dirt and dust to start collecting on your heater core and evaporator ...which as you have witnessed will reduce efficiency .

So to answer your question of what we did when cars had no cabin filters fitted? we dealt with reduced efficiency and in some case paid thousands of dollars to have the heater core and evaporator cleaned or replaced once the HVAC systems stopped working properly

just Ike the filters in your home system. they are there for you just as much as they are there for the components
 
Theoretically a cabin filter helps but in practice there's not that much dirt going through there. I replaced a heater core myself on an E34 BMW years ago with over 100k miles and 15 years old and the old core was clean. US models didn't have a cabin filter at the time but did have a door for such as option. I can assure you the old heater core was not all mucked up, it was just leaking given an OEM crap design with plastic coolant hose connections. Anyhow practically no car had these 20 years ago and people were not plugging up heater cores...to each his own though.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
 
I just did it. I am a mechanically inclined mechanical engineer (if you work with any, you know the two do not always go together). I thought people were just being wimpy when complaining about this job. I will pay to have this replaced from now on. I would rather:

-pour rubbing alcohol on an open wound
-poke my eye with a sharp stick
-watch Hillary Clinton and President Trump pole dance together
-disconnect Ford “quick disconnect “ fuel lines
-squeeze hard and yank on my balls

than do this job again.
 
21 - 40 of 86 Posts