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Carefully placed black electrical tape over the bottom part of the camera lens. Stuff the ends into the gap between the lens and shroud and the tape will stay put for a long while.
Thanks for the tip! If you've done this can you share a photo? How much of the lens did you cover? Does it block any part of the image?
I'll definitely try this weekend.
 

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Thanks for the tip! If you've done this can you share a photo? How much of the lens did you cover? Does it block any part of the image?
I'll definitely try this weekend.
It's easy to do. In the Infotainment settings you can turn on the backup camera. You can watch the screen as you position the tape to cover the lower portion of the camera to block the bumper reflections. I'm going to be doing the same thing, but a little more in-depth. I'll block everything except the view of the bumper so I can paint on some black enamel where the tape would normally go.
 

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It's easy to do. In the Infotainment settings you can turn on the backup camera. You can watch the screen as you position the tape to cover the lower portion of the camera to block the bumper reflections. I'm going to be doing the same thing, but a little more in-depth. I'll block everything except the view of the bumper so I can paint on some black enamel where the tape would normally go.
Exactly what I was thinking!
 

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Carefully placed black electrical tape over the bottom part of the camera lens. Stuff the ends into the gap between the lens and shroud and the tape will stay put for a long while.
Ok, it works! Rearview camera has much better brightness now. The picture was adjusting brightness due to the bright white bumper.
1. Tested by blocking bottom part of lens with electrical tape. And saw it works
2. Taped the inverse instead so I could only see bumper in rear camera. Noticed that the blackout, although cut straight across curved on the lens due to lens curvature. So I played with cutting at a curve until image was fairly flat.
3. Gloss black paint and clearcoat over the camera lens
4. Remove tape.

Works great. See picture with taped and painted lens, then after removing tape. In camera image now, you can just barely see the edge of the bumper. Brightness is much better.
20200307_144145.jpg
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I have observed this since long ago, but have not seen it mentioned yet

If you tap the paddles the car switches to "manumatic" mode. It does not stay in this mode for a fixed amount of time, but instead stays in it until the car decides you don't want it any more. This decision is non-trivial.

For example, while coasting down hill tap downshift. The car will stay in manumatic mode until you stop coasting.

The car will stay in manumatic mode for much longer in D than in A.

The car seems to take a short term lesson based on your paddle shifter behavior. Keep swatting that downshift paddle and when it returns to automatic mode the engine RPMs will tend to be higher than usual, at least for a while.

Another bit of transmission control cleverness: tap the brakes while coasting downhill: the car will downshift and stay in a lower than normal gear at least until you hit the accelerator.
 

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I have observed this since long ago, but have not seen it mentioned yet

If you tap the paddles the car switches to "manumatic" mode. It does not stay in this mode for a fixed amount of time, but instead stays in it until the car decides you don't want it any more. This decision is non-trivial.

For example, while coasting down hill tap downshift. The car will stay in manumatic mode until you stop coasting.

The car will stay in manumatic mode for much longer in D than in A.

The car seems to take a short term lesson based on your paddle shifter behavior. Keep swatting that downshift paddle and when it returns to automatic mode the engine RPMs will tend to be higher than usual, at least for a while.

Another bit of transmission control cleverness: tap the brakes while coasting downhill: the car will downshift and stay in a lower than normal gear at least until you hit the accelerator.
Hold the right paddle to get back into 'drive' sooner, too.
 

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From another thread:

OK, here is a new one for anyone doing an oil change on a 2.0T Giulia (QV and diesel may have similar issues, I do not know). I do not recollect seeing this in the service manual or the forums.

The front underpan is fastened in place with 19 screws. Those very similar looking screws are NOT identical to each other. In particular some of the screws have a 1.5mm shoulder while others have a 3mm shoulder. The 1.5mm shoulder screws are apparently for locations that thread into something solid, like a cross member, while the 3mm shoulder screws are for locations that use clip on nuts.

If you use the 3mm shoulder screws in the 1.5mm shoulder locations the underpan can rattle.
If you use the 1.5mm shoulder screws in the 3mm shoulder locations you will not have enough 1.5mm shoulder screws to reassemble, plus the 1.5mm screws may allow the parts to shift.
 

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I've found a very effective way to get faster response and keep at higher RPMs where acceleration is better. Shortly before you want a fast acceleration, let's say you are cruising along and nearing a nice uphill curve that she loves to swing around... rapidly tap the gas to the floor, making sure to go past the click near the bottom of the pedal range then immediately release all the way. The car will stay steady but RPM will pop up around 4000 and stay there. Then, bang, when you are ready (for the curve, or to pass) the gas pedal will be very responsive.

In my experience, this works better than just mashing the pedal when you want to go.

This only works in D mode.

Why not just use the Manual mode? Because the rev limiter will cut you out at a lower RPM, whereas the other way it will go into redline before auto shifting.

Why not use the paddles in auto shift mode? Because you'd have to left tap about 3 times to get to the same starting point and it just doesn't get to the same starting point as quick. Besides, with the foot pedal trick she seems to do a very good job of being in the best gear (until you stop driving aggressive and it will drop down to lower RPM, even in D mode...)
 

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That the outside rear view mirror settings are remembered along with seat settings. This means that one of the seat memory positions can be used just by leaving the seat and adjusting the mirrors for an optimal angle to help you park. Voila, no more kerb rash! (Apologies if this has been mentioned before but I haven't been through a 69 page post)
 

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I've found a very effective way to get faster response and keep at higher RPMs where acceleration is better. Shortly before you want a fast acceleration, let's say you are cruising along and nearing a nice uphill curve that she loves to swing around... rapidly tap the gas to the floor, making sure to go past the click near the bottom of the pedal range then immediately release all the way. The car will stay steady but RPM will pop up around 4000 and stay there. Then, bang, when you are ready (for the curve, or to pass) the gas pedal will be very responsive.

In my experience, this works better than just mashing the pedal when you want to go.

This only works in D mode.

Why not just use the Manual mode? Because the rev limiter will cut you out at a lower RPM, whereas the other way it will go into redline before auto shifting.

Why not use the paddles in auto shift mode? Because you'd have to left tap about 3 times to get to the same starting point and it just doesn't get to the same starting point as quick. Besides, with the foot pedal trick she seems to do a very good job of being in the best gear (until you stop driving aggressive and it will drop down to lower RPM, even in D mode...)
Hold the left paddle for an instant multi gear drop instead.
 

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