Removed ST Springs and went back to stock.
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I viewed a couple of YouTubes on this which were super helpful, but they all glossed over a couple of details that matter. None mentioned that the front lower bolt for the strut to lower control arm is not to be re-used. They also didn't mention the procedure for tightening that bolt. As with most suspension bushings, you need to raise the suspension to some spec and then tighten the bolt, Tightening the bolts with the suspension sagging all the way down is a sure-fire way to ruin bushings. The service manual details the procedure with a special tool. I didn't have the special tool, but could at least get it close without it. Also, the rear springs are tricky to get out, the driver's side is the tougher of the two. I found that I needed to compress, rotate it CCW, release, re-grip, compress, rotate it CCW, etc, until the bottom coil end was on the outboard side, effectively a 180 deg rotation of the spring, so that it can be removed. Without doing that, it wouldn't compress it enough to get it out. Lastly, you can't get at one of the nuts of the passenger front strut at the top without removing the air intake duct, it's completely in the way of the nut, you can't get a socket on it.
Using the single spring compressor was clutch. If you don't have this style, get one. I bet it saved me several hours of time to do the job over using the dual style.
So why go back to stock? It's going into service on Monday to have knocking noises in the rear suspension checked out, and the passenger rear damper is seeping. I don't want any warranty issues. Also, the ST springs didn't work out, too low for me. I considered installing @Alfissimo 's GTAm springs, which I have in a box in black, but didn't want to risk it. I'll be putting them on after the service call and will do my own video on how to do it. I already have the GTAm control module, I can't wait to see how much better the GTA springs are than the ST springs when paired with that module.
For those on the fence, go ahead and do it yourself if you're use to doing work at this level. I think I could get it done in 6 hours or less next time.
I viewed a couple of YouTubes on this which were super helpful, but they all glossed over a couple of details that matter. None mentioned that the front lower bolt for the strut to lower control arm is not to be re-used. They also didn't mention the procedure for tightening that bolt. As with most suspension bushings, you need to raise the suspension to some spec and then tighten the bolt, Tightening the bolts with the suspension sagging all the way down is a sure-fire way to ruin bushings. The service manual details the procedure with a special tool. I didn't have the special tool, but could at least get it close without it. Also, the rear springs are tricky to get out, the driver's side is the tougher of the two. I found that I needed to compress, rotate it CCW, release, re-grip, compress, rotate it CCW, etc, until the bottom coil end was on the outboard side, effectively a 180 deg rotation of the spring, so that it can be removed. Without doing that, it wouldn't compress it enough to get it out. Lastly, you can't get at one of the nuts of the passenger front strut at the top without removing the air intake duct, it's completely in the way of the nut, you can't get a socket on it.
Using the single spring compressor was clutch. If you don't have this style, get one. I bet it saved me several hours of time to do the job over using the dual style.
So why go back to stock? It's going into service on Monday to have knocking noises in the rear suspension checked out, and the passenger rear damper is seeping. I don't want any warranty issues. Also, the ST springs didn't work out, too low for me. I considered installing @Alfissimo 's GTAm springs, which I have in a box in black, but didn't want to risk it. I'll be putting them on after the service call and will do my own video on how to do it. I already have the GTAm control module, I can't wait to see how much better the GTA springs are than the ST springs when paired with that module.
For those on the fence, go ahead and do it yourself if you're use to doing work at this level. I think I could get it done in 6 hours or less next time.
