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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!

I just signed up for My first HPDE with my (new to me) 2017 Giulia Quad. I have been to about 6 HPDEs in various cars and can't wait to take the Alfa for a spin. My car has about 11k miles and has CCB.

I was hoping I could learn from your experience prior to heading to the track:

1. I used to track a C7 Corvette Z06 and it had the ability to maintain stability control but turn off traction control. It was my understanding that traction control could eat up rotors and that it should be turned off. Is this in fact an actual issue with traction control? Can you turn traction control off while leaving stability control on? My hope is to have all the features of race mode but with stability control.

2. Are there any maintenance items I should take care of prior to going to the track? The oil was changed in December at the dealer 1,000 miles ago. I don't have any history on the brakes or brake fluid.

3. I read a bunch of topics about track days when the QVs first came out so I bought a scanner in anticipation of limp mode and plan to keep the gas tank full. Are there any other issues I should be aware of?

4. Are there any other questions I haven't asked that I should?

This forum has been extremely helpful so far. I appreciate any insight you can offer!
 

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1 sadly no. You can have race without esc or D with it. Can't have race and ESC, Unless n your @beaups who did some programing.

2 brake fluid would have been my recommendation

3 brakes are the biggest issue. Good drivers have worn them out on laps, but not everyone drivers that hard. @BostonDMD @Call me Al can attest

4 just make sure to turn FCW off each session if you stay in D. Otherwise if it kicks in on track, that would be bad. AS/S too just in case
 

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1. I could be wrong, but thought all stability/traction control systems use brakes to maintain control (as well as throttle). So, sounds like you'll need to need to be careful with the loud pedal.

2. Take it somewhere to have someone inspect everything if you're not comfortable/capable. Fluid, brakes, suspension, tires, etc. It would be prudent to torque the wheels, check suspension play, etc. Worst thing would be to show up to a track event and have a wheel fall off or a suspension failure that could have been caught with a basic inspection. Mind you, you're about to put a lot of stress on the car.

3. Brakes for the QV. Sounds like brake cooling is a must for sustained laps, but if you start experiencing fade, bring it into the pits or do a few laps where you aren't braking as hard.

4. I'd recommend an oil analysis at your next change. I do it at every oil change to keep tabs on engine health -- especially helpful when tracking a car.
 

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Hello!

I just signed up for My first HPDE with my (new to me) 2017 Giulia Quad. I have been to about 6 HPDEs in various cars and can't wait to take the Alfa for a spin. My car has about 11k miles and has CCB.

I was hoping I could learn from your experience prior to heading to the track:

1. I used to track a C7 Corvette Z06 and it had the ability to maintain stability control but turn off traction control. It was my understanding that traction control could eat up rotors and that it should be turned off. Is this in fact an actual issue with traction control? Can you turn traction control off while leaving stability control on? My hope is to have all the features of race mode but with stability control.

2. Are there any maintenance items I should take care of prior to going to the track? The oil was changed in December at the dealer 1,000 miles ago. I don't have any history on the brakes or brake fluid.

3. I read a bunch of topics about track days when the QVs first came out so I bought a scanner in anticipation of limp mode and plan to keep the gas tank full. Are there any other issues I should be aware of?

4. Are there any other questions I haven't asked that I should?

This forum has been extremely helpful so far. I appreciate any insight you can offer!
OEM brake pads are horrible at the track. You will be lucky to get one day out of the front pads and you can get as little as 4 laps if the track has a lot of elevation and you are tracking hard hard.
Girodisc is the best in my opinion they have a strong Street pad and also the almost full race pads that I use the Raybestos ST 43 pads.
Tarox and a few others make pads that are probably fine too. But Girodisc has the serious stuff.
Other than brake pads you should be fine just keep the gas up in the tank he can throw a code if it gets low.
And be sure and cool your brakes properly before you stop your car. I just sold four of my OEM steel rotors off my Stelvio QV to someone with a Giulia QV who didn’t cool his brakes properly and warped all of them!
I had the spare rotors because I converted my rotors and pads to the Girodisc system.
To illustrate how quickly you can burn up your OEM pads here is my maiden voyage driving my Stelvio at the track for the first time with the OEM pads yes 1 warmup and 2 hard laps and they were gone!!!
But I was driving the car fairly hard. 1:54 laptime at ORP just messing around. These laps literally incinerated my OEM brake pads!
My Stelvio QV with a few mods is ridiculous fast. FYI it shares the exact same rotors and brake pads with the Giuila QV with the steel brake choice.
97773
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the comments everyone. I could watch that track video 100 times! So I should look for other pads and change the fluid even if the car has carbon ceramic brakes? I would have thought those would have held up better!?!?
 

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Thanks for the comments everyone. I could watch that track video 100 times! So I should look for other pads and change the fluid even if the car has carbon ceramic brakes? I would have thought those would have held up better!?!?
Your OEM brake fluid is just fine. But if you track it a bunch you should change the fluid about every 6 to 8 track days. I would get some good brake fluid either DOT4 or DOT just get something with a boiling point of about dry 600 and wet 400. I use Redline RL600.
Carbon ceramic brake option is only marginally better than the standard steel rotors for track use. The best I could get out of my CCBs on my Giuila QV would be three hard track day on a set of front pads and that would be with me flipping the pads once because they taper so much. Send out $1300 for a set of pads super expensive to track the car with the CCB brake choice.
Bottom line is if you’re going to track the car a lot you’re going to want to convert to the Girodisc steel rotors. Better braking and 84% less expensive in brake consumables.
But she will get brake dust again.
If you don’t track it a lot you can get by with the CCB just be prepared to buy some expensive brake pads and change your pads often.
Girodisc rotors and brake pads are excellent!
97788
 

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Does GiroDisc sell the blanks for the 2 piece rotors? I wonder how much better they are from the standard Brembo rotors on the QV. Not sure if they're worth $400 more. I would also venture to say that the standard DOT 4 brake fluid is sub par as I boiled my fluid tracking but not to the extent Call_Me_Al did as my pedal was soft afterwards.

On a separate note, you can purchase the Powerstop Track Day pads for the QV for $120 off of RockAuto.
 

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Does GiroDisc sell the blanks for the 2 piece rotors? I wonder how much better they are from the standard Brembo rotors on the QV. Not sure if they're worth $400 more. I would also venture to say that the standard DOT 4 brake fluid is sub par as I boiled my fluid tracking but not to the extent Call_Me_Al did as my pedal was soft afterwards.

On a separate note, you can purchase the Powerstop Track Day pads for the QV for $120 off of RockAuto.
Yes Girodisc sells “rings” which I imagine you are talking about when you say “blanks”.
For the the largest rotor size 15.4” it’s $800 for a set of front rings. And you just reuse the aluminum hats.
FYI Alfa OEM front steel rotors in the smaller size 14.2” are $900 a set and they don’t make them in the larger size in steel.
I believe the Girodisc price for the smaller 14.2” full rotor set is $1200 and then when you just replace the rings it’s about $700.
So Girodisc is cheaper in the long run and the rotors are far superior and last longer.
As far as brake fluid goes don’t get confused between DOT4 and DOT5 fluids.
Many good DOT4 Fluids have a higher boiling point both wet and dry then some DOT5 fluids.
I use Redline RL 600 DOT4 and the boil points are 600 and 400 which are very good!
I track the crap out of my Alfa cars and I’ve never boiled the fluid. I change it about every six or eight track days.
 

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Yes Girodisc sells “rings” which I imagine you are talking about when you say “blanks”.
For the the largest rotor size 15.4” it’s $800 for a set of front rings. And you just reuse the aluminum hats.
FYI Alfa OEM front steel rotors in the smaller size 14.2” are $900 a set and they don’t make them in the larger size in steel.
I believe the Girodisc price for the smaller 14.2” full rotor set is $1200 and then when you just replace the rings it’s about $700.
So Girodisc is cheaper in the long run and the rotors are far superior and last longer.
As far as brake fluid goes don’t get confused between DOT4 and DOT5 fluids.
Many good DOT4 Fluids have a higher boiling point both wet and dry then some DOT5 fluids.
I use Redline RL 600 DOT4 and the boil points are 600 and 400 which are very good!
I track the crap out of my Alfa cars and I’ve never boiled the fluid. I change it about every six or eight track days.
Do you change the fluid yourself or go to the dealer?
 

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Do you change the fluid yourself or go to the dealer?
Depends if the car happens to be at the dealership or race shop I usually just let them do it but at the track or when it’s needed I use my own pressure bleeder.
It’s not too hard you just have to have the right tools. And you need to get the pressure up to like 35 PSI which is higher than my 30 psi pressure bleeder but I just over pump it. Kind of like the old days when your modded car went faster than your speedometer shows LOL
 

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Depends if the car happens to be at the dealership or race shop I usually just let them do it but at the track or when it’s needed I use my own pressure bleeder.
It’s not too hard you just have to have the right tools. And you need to get the pressure up to like 35 PSI which is higher than my 30 psi pressure bleeder but I just over pump it. Kind of like the old days when your modded car went faster than your speedometer shows LOL
Was your alfa dealer able to do the Girodisc rotor and brake pad conversion? Mine said they won’t do it since it’s not stock.
 

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Depends if the car happens to be at the dealership or race shop I usually just let them do it but at the track or when it’s needed I use my own pressure bleeder.
It’s not too hard you just have to have the right tools. And you need to get the pressure up to like 35 PSI which is higher than my 30 psi pressure bleeder but I just over pump it. Kind of like the old days when your modded car went faster than your speedometer shows LOL
I asked bc when I looked into it last year, I believe I read a witech was required

 

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@Avnyc11 WiTech not required to bleed, please search the site as I have posted my experience doing it. Just had to buy the motive bleeder and I as Call_Me_Al also press it up to the specs of 30-35 psi, it works just fine. Follow the shop procedure and your fine. Only thing you can't do is reset computer or monitor how much fluid is in each chamber but I didn't find that info necessary.

@Call me Al - Can you use the bigger rotors with the standard QV brakes or are the calipers a different size? I also agree that in the long run the GiroDisc's are cheaper but the rings/blanks are not listed on their website. I was not confusing DOT 4 with DOT 5 as it's silicone, I figured since you boiled your brake fluid from a previous post you used Castrol SRF. Wonder how much better DOT 5.1 is and/or compatible with DOT 4 as I heard the viscosity was a little different in which Im not sure how the BBW system would react. I flushed after my first track day with Motul RBF600. Maybe endless/redline/stoptech is better?
 

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Was your alfa dealer able to do the Girodisc rotor and brake pad conversion? Mine said they won’t do it since it’s not stock.
Each dealership is different than what they’ll do or not just use a raceshop your Alfa parts dealership should be able to sell you you the parts you need. It’s not really that complicated just new rotors new rotor bracket and small brake line to do the fronts the rear requires changing the knuckle which is why I didn’t do it plus the extra cost not really needed for rears.
You should really only need to do this if you’re going to track the car.
But if you are going to track the car this is one hell of a mod!!!
 

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@Avnyc11 WiTech not required to bleed, please search the site as I have posted my experience doing it. Just had to buy the motive bleeder and I as Call_Me_Al also press it up to the specs of 30-35 psi, it works just fine. Follow the shop procedure and your fine. Only thing you can't do is reset computer or monitor how much fluid is in each chamber but I didn't find that info necessary.

@Call me Al - Can you use the bigger rotors with the standard QV brakes or are the calipers a different size? I also agree that in the long run the GiroDisc's are cheaper but the rings/blanks are not listed on their website. I was not confusing DOT 4 with DOT 5 as it's silicone. Wonder how much better DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 4.
No you cannot use the bigger Girodisc rotors with the standard brake calibers.
you have to change the rotors and the calipers and a small bracket and a smallbrake line.
I already listed the price for the replaceable rotor rings and earlier post in this thread.
DOT 5.1 is not necessarily ANY better than DOT4.
Redline RL600 DOT 4 brake fluid has among the best specs available.
 

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No you cannot use the bigger Girodisc rotors with the standard brake calibers.
you have to change the rotors and the calipers and a small bracket and a smallbrake line.
I already listed the price for the replaceable rotor rings and earlier post in this thread.
DOT 5.1 is not necessarily ANY better than DOT4.
Redline RL600 DOT 4 brake fluid has among the best specs available.
From Girodisc:

"Hello and thank you for getting in touch, I have to apologize for the delay we somehow missed your email yesterday. At any rate we did come out with our CCM to iron conversion for these cars some time before our set up for the OEM iron cars so there isn’t as many people talking about them but we’ve done just over 10 cars now, most of which are being tracked heavily and everyone loves the set up.

Our rotors for the CCM vs Iron are very similar with the OEM iron set up being a little smaller in both diameter and thickness making them a few lbs. lighter. In order to run our CCM size rotors you would need the specific CCM calipers as well. In my opinion there is no benefit to doing so, the very slight increase in mass/thermal capacity of the CCM set up means that the pads and rotors might last a minuscule amount longer, like 2-3%. Using the same pad with either set up will net the same performance, you would not be able to tell the difference between the two.

Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions, thanks! "
 

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1 sadly no. You can have race without esc or D with it. Can't have race and ESC, Unless n your @beaups who did some programing.

2 brake fluid would have been my recommendation

3 brakes are the biggest issue. Good drivers have worn them out on laps, but not everyone drivers that hard. @BostonDMD @Call me Al can attest

4 just make sure to turn FCW off each session if you stay in D. Otherwise if it kicks in on track, that would be bad. AS/S too just in case
This is my first and last time at the track with the QV......
Destroyed pads, rotors and tires in 60 minutes.....
Not a very cost effective track day.....


 

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This is my first and last time at the track with the QV......
Destroyed pads, rotors and tires in 60 minutes.....
Not a very cost effective track day.....


😳 it doesn't look like you were driving like a mad man or anything, your experience cannot be the norm (I hope)....
 

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😳 it doesn't look like you were driving like a mad man or anything, your experience cannot be the norm (I hope)....
are you familiar with Lime Rock Park???.....there are elevation changes, everything is right hand turns...but its not necessarily a straight line fast track, unless your a very seasoned driver like @BostonDMD is.
where is your track day being held?
 

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are you familiar with Lime Rock Park???.....there are elevation changes, everything is right hand turns...but its not necessarily a straight line fast track, unless your a very seasoned driver like @BostonDMD is.
where is your track day being held?
Eagles Canyon Raceway outside of Dallas.
 
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