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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not recommending you do this or saying this is the best way and anything you break is on you. But hope it might be useful to someone else to explain how I got the lining out of my trunk. I also should state up front this is a Ti without the HK sound upgrade. I hope you will excuse my ignorance not knowing what to call some of the pieces and just making up my own names.

I did this for 2 reasons. 1st I was going to get my windows filmed/tinted and the whole water in the trunk shorting the amp had me concerned. So I wanted to make it as easy as possible for the window film installer to put down towels and dry things out.

2nd I wanted to find a good place to install a dash cam battery to allow a dash cam to work for parking mode surveillance without draining the main car battery and causing all sorts of alarms.

The first piece that needs to come off is the plastic cover right at the back of the trunk that covers the latch loop for the trunk lid. I'm calling this the 'trunk latch cover' - see thumbnail of inside of this. It has 3 two piece pins that face the front of the car on its vertical face. I pried the center piece out and was then able to remote the outer piece. Detail thumbnail shows these pins. The cover itself then needs to pull straight up to avoid breaking the 4 pins that clip into a horizontal metal car structure. I rotated the cover because the back edge is under the rubber trunk lid seal and broke one of the pins. Hence the 3 pins in the photo. Once you get this plastic cover off there is one push in pin for each of the side lining pieces that can be removed on each side.

The second piece that probably should be removed is what I'm calling the 'wheel arch pad' that goes between the back seat and the door. There is a detail thumbnail that shows the back of the pad and the three metal loops that stick out of it and engage in clips in the car. I found it easier to fold the rear seat down first then get fingers round the top of the pad and pull hard towards the windshield to disengage this top loop. Then the other two disengage by lifting the pad up nearly vertically.

The third thing I would now remove is the small tray that sits in the floor behind the driver side tail light. I show on the thumbnail the place to pry to get the cap out with minimal damage. The bolt underneath is 10mm if I'm remembering correctly then this tray can be lifted/pried out.

Next is the small knob above this tray which I believe can be used to release the fuel filler door if all else fails. There is certainly a thread with a small plastic blob on the end which is engaged in the knob shown in the thumbnail. But the blot on the end of the thread can be pushed towards the top of the knob and will fit out of the opening shown in the thumbnail.

The final two thumbnails show the driver and passenger sides of the trunk trim and I have marked the location of all the push in pins that secure them. There must be a smart way to remove the ones behind the back seat but I don't know what it is. I didn't want to take the seat backs out and was eventually able to pry these pins out. I didn't put them back when I put everything back together though. If someone knows how you are really supposed to get these pins out let me know. There is also a significant danger of dropping them down behind the base of the seat at which they are real pain to get out although it proved possible to lift the base of the seat.

If you can give me a couple of minutes there is second post coming with the rest of the pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Part 2

Here is what I found behind the trims. I discovered my car has no amplifier in the trunk, confirmed by the tint shop that called AR tech support.

Its clear that it would definitely be possible to thread wires down the passenger C pillar and into the trunk and from there get access to the trunk fuse panel. I do have a diagram I found on line of this panel but didn't persist long enough to find which locations only have power when the ignition is on which is what I would need for the dash cam backup battery charging.

Given the severe lack of underfloor storage space in the trunk I think I could fit the backup battery underneath the fuse panel there is definitely a significant gap under the wires under the panel.

I have also included a close up of the well in the floor on the drivers side behind the tail light. You can just make out the plastic pillars that hold the floor of the plastic insert and stop it crushing the wires in this location.
 

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